[AMA] - I'm a Builder (Part 1)

TheBilly on 22/05/2020 - 22:01
Last edited 24/05/2020 - 21:50

Have had a few people contact me on Oz bargain asking for advice from a builder, so I thought there may be a need for some pro bono. So here goes, a conditional [AMA] to do with being a builder in Sydney.

The conditions are;

  • I will answer everything I can without giving up my personal details
  • Be patient and give me time to respond
  • Can only respond to items posted this weekend, if there is not a lot of interest I may continue
  • These are just my opinions
  • Sydney is very different to interstate cities

A bit of history;

  • I am a builder
  • Worked for 15 years
  • New south wales
  • Have built major projects all the way through to bathroom renovations
  • I'm not on the tools, I can be, but I just manage so I can build quicker
  • Not a building god and am still learning a lot about compliance (weak spot)
  • Construction is an extremely diverse industry
  • It is a difficult job but I love it

Edit: 9.51pm 24.05.20 - Hi All, thank you for your questions. I will probably take a temporary hiatus and only respond to questions posted this weekend as noted above. I have changed the title of this thread to (Part 1) because I intend to do a (Part 2) AMA as well. Hopefully in the coming couple of months. I would extend this (AMA) however I unfortunately have a very busy couple of weeks ahead and just like this weekend if I have a bit of a lul period after that I will do another AMA in a new thread.

Home & Garden

Comments

        • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 11:36
          +1

          If you have had recurring issues then yes, if everything has been good to date then I would say no. If in NSW your structural warranty is for 6 years. Also 1mm cracks are not a concern.

  • amsaini15 on 24/05/2020 - 21:12

    Hi Billy
    Thanks for the AMA. Very Insightful.
    1. I have a 4.2m x 3.4m dining room in a double-storey house. How much do you think it would cost to extend it by another 4.2m x 3m? Thanks. Is it $1700 * 12.6 sqm = approx $22K?
    2. Currently, I have nothing above the double garage. How much would it cost to make a bedroom above 6.2m x 5.4m + ensuite + walk-in rob + balcony? As the garage is 6.2m x 5.4 size, all other things will extend beyond the garage.
    3. Is there any website for some plan ideas based on land size? Thank you very much.

    • TheBilly on 24/05/2020 - 23:05
      +2

      Thanks for the AMA. Very Insightful.

      No problem.

      1. I have a 4.2m x 3.4m dining room in a double-storey house. How much do you think it would cost to extend it by another 4.2m x 3m? Thanks. Is it $1700 * 12.6 sqm = approx $22K?

      No, this will have to be looked at in person. The $1700 is a good rate for a brand new house on open land. There are some considerations in extending an existing house such as what needs to be demolished, how much does the roof line have to change, new concrete slab and marrying this in with the old, how do the floor finishes match up. Also once you are extending a house, the same level of economies of scale does not apply. For example, the guy building a brand new house at $1700 m2 is more than likely building a couple of similar houses and sizes and is packaging tradesmen up on multiple contracts in one go. Extending an existing house is a one off bespoke, and the tradesmen will just quote on time and materials and will not take a risk due to lack of volume so pricing will be higher. Hope this makes sense?

      In saying that I would not say $22k is not achievable, I'm not implying that because it is an extension you will all of a sudden be paying $100k, what I am saying is that there will be other factors which may affect the price differently so you may be closer to $40k-$50k but it is one of those things that needs to be inspected to be confirmed. Don't be discouraged.

      1. Currently, I have nothing above the double garage. How much would it cost to make a bedroom above 6.2m x 5.4m + ensuite + walk-in rob + balcony? As the garage is 6.2m x 5.4 size, all other things will extend beyond the garage.

      It's hard to visualise, once again will need to be inspected, does your garage extend past the main line of the house? I would really be throwing a figure out there at a dart board but I would guesstimate around the $100k mark. This will have to be engineered and go via council. How old is your house? The newer it is the easier it will be to do or comment on. If your footings in the garage are the same as the rest of the house, the footings would already have been designed to take that extra load of brickwork, joists, framing etc.

      1. Is there any website for some plan ideas based on land size? Thank you very much.

      Sorry what do you mean by this? new home designs or extension designs? generally websites only have new home designs as extensions are specific to a house and generally aren't repeated.

      • amsaini15 on 25/05/2020 - 19:15

        Thanks alot for such detailed reply mate. You are too good.

        "does your garage extend past the main line of the house?" Garage is 1 mts in front in comparison to the rest of the house.
        "How old is your house?" - Its relatively new. Built in 2003.
        "new home designs or extension designs?" - Sorry I meant new home designs. Just thinking if I should do min renovation now (like what I mentioned above) and demolish/built new one in 6-7 years time. Cant seem to find good website for plans on a 450 sqm land.

  • krismoha685 on 24/05/2020 - 21:24

    What's your opinion on dual key property, like 3 bed and 2 Bed attached home. Buying a land 600 sqmtres (220k) around 1-2 hour drive from Sydney and Building a home (400K) approx 250 m2
    Is it a good idea for long term investment

    • TheBilly on 24/05/2020 - 22:54
      +1

      Is it a good idea for long term investment

      Do the numbers stack up? How much rent will you get? what are your out goings? what will your maintenance and taxes be like? rates? loan servicing? How much do you end up with in cash positive or negative? what are your forecasted growth rates? I would treat this just like any other property investment, the dual key aspect is secondary apart from the fact you might get more rent.

      Another consideration is when you say dual key are you referring to one entrance or two entrances like an attached granny flat? I would say an attached granny flat with it's own entrance is much better than a dual key if they have one shared entrance. It will be less appealing to renters to share.

      Likewise, that is very far from Sydney - one hour is Sydney metropolitan almost, two hours is not. What industry is in this location supporting the renters to earn income and pay your rent.

      I'm not a financial planner or anything, I just have invested in property myself. These are just questions I would be asking.

      • krismoha685 on 24/05/2020 - 23:15

        Thanks alot for answering

        Rent expected is around 415+315 = 730 per week
        I am hoping to service loan for P&I with rent which puts it at positive gearing Property

        Growth 10 to 15% for sure, nothing extreme. Yes different entrances and separate backyard with fence would be the idea

        Rentals are pretty good in that area from my research.

        • TheBilly on 24/05/2020 - 23:19

          From my research.

          That is what counts.

  • TheMindsetTraveller on 24/05/2020 - 22:28

    Let's assume I live in a nice three level terrace on a slightly sloping block; I have been told by a friend that I could potentially excavate a little bit deeper into the slope/earth and under the main house to create, possibly an extra room and add some value. Need to find a specialist builder who does these kind of things given that it is a terrace - do you have any thoughts about this idea?

    • TheBilly on 24/05/2020 - 22:48
      +2

      It can be done, however it is not cheap and I will explain why. An experienced builder can easily do this, however I would not recommend a volume home builder or carpenter renovator, I would recommend a builder with commercial experience or somebody who can at least show you similar circumstances where they have had to work in the point of influence of a structure. The reason I say this is expensive is because you will have to underpin or shore the existing house before you can excavate any further, if you don't shore or underpin correctly you will cause real structural damage. I have only done this twice, and in both circumstances it was not easy. I would highly recommend looking at a cost benefit of the extra room, I can't visualise your situation but it may not be worth the expense to value increase in the property.

      Can I ask do all the levels step back from one another for example is the ground slightly ahead of level 1 which is slightly ahead of 2. If so, does ground have a cavity behind the back wall of the furthest room with dirt behind it? Or are all the levels directly on top of one another.

      • TheMindsetTraveller on 25/05/2020 - 06:44

        Thank you for your detailed reply, much appreciated.

        The best I can describe it this this; upper level and ground level share the same footprint, wherease the basement level is about half the footprint of the ground level - there is a cavity space (dirt/ground)which I can access via a small door. I use that cavity space as storage.

        In any case, as you said, it might be either too expensive of a job to make it worthwhile on face value but at least your reply gave me something to think about. Thanks once again!

  • Ozchicken on 24/05/2020 - 23:14

    Hey mate, thanks for the AMA. Hope you got time for two more questions.

    A few years ago, we had a bad experience with having the driveway of our house taken out and re-poured. The guy dragged the project on (for a few months) such that he removed the old driveway and left the soil exposed for a few weeks. Then, we had a week of heavy rain, with the rain water flooding the newly-exposed driveway area, and likely seeping underground and under the house. When the weather was good again, he poured the concrete to finished the job.

    My first question is, should I be worrying about the seeping rainwater damaging the foundation of our 3-decade old house? I have noticed new thin vertical cracks in the walls on one side of the house in the past year or so, which is making me worry that one side of the house will sink due to a damaged foundation.

    My second question is, do you have any advice on checking the state of and fixing the foundation?

    Cheers

    • TheBilly on 24/05/2020 - 23:32
      +2

      I am assuming that the driveway slopes down towards your house? When you get the to the house does the land go flat or does it continue to slope downwards? I'm trying to figure out whether your house slab is on the ground or whether it is a sub floor and the slab is suspended, this will identify the type of footing you may have.

      These walls that are cracking, what are they made of?
      Likewise is there any cracking in the concrete slab at the base of these walls inside or outside?

      I believe it is unlikely that something like this caused the foundation to undermine. One thing to consider is that to undermine a footing you are usually taking out soil from it's base. If it's base was 400mm deep it is unlikely the water has gotten 400mm underground and then undermine. For example I very recently did some excavation against a retaining wall holding 1.5m of soil. The footing was about 600mm deep and the excavation exposed the top of the footing and it had no impact. When you look at the bearing or influence of a footing visualise a 45 degree upside down V heading down from the external corners of the base. If you do not undermine anything in that 45 degree V it is unlikely you undermined the footing.

      This image will best explain what I am talking about.

      https://images.app.goo.gl/vTX1f1chgrs8AX9o6

      Question 2 I can answer with a bit more info based on the above. You can always see how deep the footing is but I don't want to bump steer you incorrectly without understanding more.

      • Ozchicken on 25/05/2020 - 00:08

        Thanks for the quick response.

        • I am assuming that the driveway slopes down towards your house? When you get the to the house does the land go flat or does it continue to slope downwards? I'm trying to figure out whether your house slab is on the ground or whether it is a sub floor and the slab is suspended, this will identify the type of footing you may have.

        The house is on a small slope near the top of a hill, so the there is a slight decline going from the front-yard to the back-yard. The original driveway also sloped (slightly) downwards in the same direction towards the house.

        • These walls that are cracking, what are they made of? Likewise is there any cracking in the concrete slab at the base of these walls inside or outside?

        Sorry, I should have mentioned that these are walls inside a garage which was renovated into a living room. The walls are cement sheets which cover the original brick walls of the garage. The cracks seem to appear where the cement sheets meet, implying that the brick wall behind them is moving.

        I haven't looked properly but I don't seem to recall any noticeable cracks in the concrete slabs at the base of the house walls. I will check again when the sun is up.

        Appreciate the clarification on house footing. Very interesting.

        • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 04:45
          +2

          Cement sheets are very susceptible to cracking. Cracking in the slab in the slab perpendicular to the slab edge would indicate the footing below is cracking and causing stress to the slab. What I mean is if the slab runs north south and the cracks are east west it means the foundation under is moving… Cement sheets cracking won't necessarily mean the footing is cracking. Cement sheets can crack at the joint very easily from something as little as hot / cold weather repeating.

          • Ozchicken on 25/05/2020 - 18:43

            @TheBilly: It seems the slab is fine so the wall cracks might just be due to ambient temperature changes. Anyway, thanks for the great response! Cheers.

  • Sbah22 on 25/05/2020 - 00:16
    +2

    Cracking AMA…
    Very patient and thought about answers….although no questions from me….thoroughly enjoyed reading.
    Thank you Billy

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 04:45
      +1

      Thank you

  • [Deactivated] on 25/05/2020 - 00:23

    How big are the margins on changing lights/ switches and painting ceilings.
    A guy quoted me $500 for painting a small area of the kitchen and $2000 for changing hot water system which seem too expensive

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 04:47

      The issue is the contractor will have to make a day of it. If you shop around you may get a better deal but the way he is thinking is it may take him a day at $40 per hour plus materials. Just an example. He won't be able to go to another job afterwards to make more that day so it is relative.

  • rahoolz on 25/05/2020 - 08:45

    I am looking to build a double storey house with 5 bedrooms in Sydney south west. Do you think it’s a good time to build ? I have approached couple of project builders .. what are think I should look for before signing the contract and how can negotiate on the price without compromising on quality

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 10:57

      Every builder has different ways of pricing. So I can't give one answer. But generally speaking if you list out the items required to build a house and the builder has not defined what they are giving you, it is then open to interpretation and then cost increase. You will almost never be quoted the complete amount up front. Also naturally there are areas they cannot possibly firm up until you pay their deposit, but you should at the least understand what it is going to cost you if they do need to spend more so you are not surprised. Areas that this occurs most commonly.

      Soil removal or import, length of concrete piers, drop edge beam heights, services connections (plumbing, gas, electricity), council conditions, power points and lighting, kitchen and bathroom finishes.

    • Logical on 26/05/2020 - 18:02
      +1

      The correct answer is: have a specification included in the contract as a minimum. You can also have a bill of quantities produced for your house which will assist the builders pricing up the custom house. Let me know if you want me to explain what a specification should include and/or what a bill of quantities is.

  • Ozbargainlyf on 25/05/2020 - 08:59

    Thanks OP, great AMA/answers.

    Thoughts on hardwood timber flooring nowadays? Looking to replace our central corridor and dont have a budget in mind. Period home and think using something synthetic will take away from it. Currently Baltic Pine but that doesnt seem to be an option now brand new?

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 11:10

      Honestly I think you have me on this one, sorry, I don't think I know enough to give a good opinion. I do think synthetic has come a long way though, it's not like it was 5 or 10 or 15 years ago. If budget was a concern it would take a keen eye to figure out that it wasnt a hardwood. But in this case it is not, so I would encourage the best you can afford for your asset.

    • Logical on 26/05/2020 - 18:04

      You should consider bamboo flooring. The planks are prefinished and very durable. Also easy to lay and looks a million bucks! https://www.bambooflooringsa.com.au/

  • SupeNintendoChalmers on 25/05/2020 - 09:11
    +2

    Do you have any trouble building the Billy bookcases from Ikea?

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 11:01
      +1

      Yes, we all universally hate going to Ikea.

      But they are such good value ! I have done a whole kitchen through them.

      • [Deactivated] on 25/05/2020 - 17:27

        how much did ikea charge, i am planning o doing that too but mine its a small kitchen

  • Sergeant Salami on 25/05/2020 - 09:22

    What are your thoughts on leaving slabs to settle before putting up the frame? I'm arguing with my builder (one of the volume builders). I'm asking for minimum a month what are your thoughts?

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 11:05

      You can spray on a curing compound such as Parchem Concure X90 and this puts a waxy coating on the slab helping it with curing and allowing the build to continue. Unfortunately I am biased towards continuing as I am a builder and I like to finish projects quickly and a volume builder would feel this much more than me. I haven't had any issues doing it this way the chemical does cost a few hundred. If they let you you can buy it yourself and spray it on. If not I wouldn't stress too much about this.

      Edit: the waxy coating keeps slab moisture in and does not let it out quickly which benefits the process you refer to as settling.

  • Brianqpr on 25/05/2020 - 09:37

    What is a reasonable price per square metre to replace an old, cracked and uneven driveway with a basic concrete maybe coloured one?

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 11:13
      +1

      Depends on a few factors like what is the subgrade? how big is the driveway and any council conditions for example council may require you to replace the foot path 1 bay on each side of the driveway or even request a road opening permit. Budget $100 per m2.

      • Logical on 25/05/2020 - 18:03

        Add the cost to demolish the old concrete driveway and take it to the dump!

  • Kamsi on 25/05/2020 - 10:38

    Hope you can help me on this..

    I have a brick house that is about 40yrs old, certain part of the house I've notice some of the bricks starting to rust away. My questions is what caused the bricks to lose and is there any remedy to fix this.

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 11:13

      Sorry I'm not understanding the "rust away" can you link a photo?

      • Kamsi on 25/05/2020 - 13:03

        Thanks will try get some photos when I get back.

      • Kamsi on 25/05/2020 - 17:13

        I couldn't take a proper photos today but I did search online and found similar photos like this one
        https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNXu1P19_u3mbfAcEsMbb-S…

        Ours is not as bad as the image above but covers a big areas like one section of the wall.

        • Logical on 25/05/2020 - 18:11

          Looks like some kind of erosion from water/ broken pipe. Have you got a broken/leaking gutter or downpipe perhaps? The intensity of the water would be large or constant dripping etc over a long time. When you take your photo take a close up and a far away one showing the surrounding environment.

        • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 20:44

          Sorry I have not come across this before. There are specialist remedial builders whose job is to only rectify building defects. I would recommend you get in touch with one for some proper advice.

          • [Deactivated] on 26/05/2020 - 10:56
            +2

            @TheBilly: That's advanced salt damp & not good.

            It's just as likely to be coming from INSIDE the house than outside.

            Does the wall back against a wet area? Kitchen, bathroom, toilet, laundry?
            Even if it doesn't, there could be a water pipe in that wall.

            A pipe may have a leak inside a wall, the water cannot escape and does this damage to bricks.

            Get a plumber in NOW to fix the water issue, then a salt damp person to fix the damage later.

  • glutamic on 25/05/2020 - 12:39

    I’m thinking of doing a demolish and rebuild for a 80-100 square home. Any advice?
    Any particular builders and/or architects you would recommend in Melbourne?

    • JelIyfish on 25/05/2020 - 13:24
      +1

      '80-100 square home'

      You don't like your family?

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 13:57

      80-100 square meters or 80-100 square?… Two different measurements. 1 square = about 9.5 square meters… Unfortunately I don't have many contacts outside of NSW.

      • glutamic on 25/05/2020 - 23:15

        80-100 squares yes
        Any general tips to avoid costs spiralling in a relatively large build?

        • JuryWheel on 26/05/2020 - 09:53

          is this a joke post…? You want to build an 80 square home but dont want the costs spiralling….? The build alonge will be well in excess of 1million, what money issues do you have exactly?

          Just FYI - the absolute biggest house Metricon build is 70 squares….https://www.metricon.com.au/new-home-designs/melbourne/lumiere?category=facades&photo=lumiere-69.jpg&floorplan=70

  • THICKnSLOW on 25/05/2020 - 13:37
    +1

    In your experience, what factors are the costliest both in time and money for you as a builder? And how does that affect you in terms of stress (I know that is subjective according to the individual), relationships with clients and contractors, neighbours on-site.

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 14:02
      +1

      Time - is the costliest and costs you ALOT of money. This is a quick example. Say you quote a job worth $95kk you have 5k to pay your managers salary for 1 month included on top and you have 5k profit margin. If the manager takes 2 months to build the job for any reason (rain, bad design, no approvals) these can be out of your control. The cost of his salary is now 10k meaning you made no money on that project. This is very simplistic. In construction alot of things are time based - salaries, scaffold, amenities, fencing, tradesman labour etc. You quickly blow your cost in time.

      • Logical on 25/05/2020 - 18:20

        The contract allows for EOT's and should be claimed as required. Fire the guy who estimated a 1 month build for a 2 month project. Bad design and approvals are generally owner's risk and provide for a valid extension of time claim. Wet weather is covered in the contract too.

        • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 18:26

          Most contracts allow for an extension of time but not the extra cost. You still have to pay wages if the design is bad.

          • Logical on 25/05/2020 - 20:27

            @TheBilly: Hell no, if design is bad and provided by owner then the builder is entitled to claim an EOT and Variation with costs to cover the changed work and profit and overheads.

            • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 20:42

              @Logical: Depends on what your contract says and every project can be different. For example, 95% of govnerment GC21 contracts have no provision for cost only time. Private contracts AS4000 are a different story but mostly in my experience working for bigger more established clients they are smart about this and have special conditions. The industry is shifting though, and more and more it is becoming a time but no cost arrangement.

              • Logical on 25/05/2020 - 21:26
                -1

                @TheBilly: GC21 2nd ed clause 51.1 The contractor is entitled to delay costs….

  • rily001 on 25/05/2020 - 13:42

    Hi Billy

    Great thread and very interesting. I feel like I've learnt a lot and you've given some great insight into your job. Really thank you for taking the time out to respond.

    I have 2 questions,

    1) what is your view on what's happening at Mascot towers? Specifically the defects, builders going into administration and fixes ballooning to over $50m… I feel very sorry for the residents living there, and

    2) I live in an apartment and we recently got curtains installed in our floor to ceiling windows. I love them but the installer mentioned to me that one end of the wall is higher than the other end and the length of the wall is slightly longer at the bottom than the top. Is this normal for apartments (12 levels) and should I be worried?

    A lot of emphasis has been placed on apartment build quality and it is causing a lot of anxiety on consumers.

    Thanks

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 20:39
      +1

      1) what is your view on what's happening at Mascot towers? Specifically the defects, builders going into administration and fixes ballooning to over $50m… I feel very sorry for the residents living there, and

      Unfortunately/fortunately I don't follow it too much because I have read some highly sensationalist media articles and it is very disingenuous. It is a real problem, I don't deny that, but if I wanted to brush up on it I would not follow the media I would just talk to industry contacts and review industry articles and reports and interpret myself. I remember a while back I spent 5 minutes skimming the report on that building in Homebush and the few extracts I read were structural hobs failing at the cold joint and then blowing out. This typically happens when somebody uses a water stop, a product that gets installed in the middle and base of a wall and swells when in contact with water to close rhe crack at the bottom of a hob so no water goes in. It is common 'construction' sense to not use this on a hob but to only use it on walls as they have more weight to withstand the swelling. I may be wrong and it had nothing to do with this, but the point Im making is it is simple things like this which cause big problems.

      Somebody made a bad decision or did the wrong design. Is this a building collapsing issue, no, I have seen worse that never made the front page. Is it stupid, yes.

      2) I live in an apartment and we recently got curtains installed in our floor to ceiling windows. I love them but the installer mentioned to me that one end of the wall is higher than the other end and the length of the wall is slightly longer at the bottom than the top. Is this normal for apartments (12 levels) and should I be worried?

      This is just shoddy workmanship, nothing to have anxiety over. An issue that trademan have is instead of measuring their own work they follow the guy before them and this kills me. Because no body checks and before you know it the work is complete… But wrong.

      Measuring is so simple. Somebody would have constructed this window opening wrong, the window guy just followed it the plasterer just followed it and the architrave guy may have just followed it and nobody bothered to stop and get it fixed, or they did but the supervisor didn't care.

      Also how far out is it, 10mm or 50mm. More than likely 10mm-20mm and somebody has just shrugged and moved on with it.

      • rily001 on 25/05/2020 - 21:29

        Thank you for the response!

        I agree regarding Mascot - the media really do sensationalize facts to get stories out of them. I really do feel for owners who may have their life savings in their home for it to be worthless.

        For my apartment its about 10 to 40mm (About 10mm in living space the other bedroom is about 40mm). The curtain installer did say he installed some sliding doors on the top floor (level 12) and he had to re do the tracks and sliding doors because the bottom width is different from the top width!

        I was really surprise and I wonder if this would be considered as a defect?

        • Logical on 25/05/2020 - 22:43

          How old is your apartment block? 10 to 40mm may have been within tolerances back in the days. If there are no signs of cracking then there has been no movement and as such all is safe and no need to worry. Not a defect. Technology in construction has greatly improved over the time which allow for more straight buildings to be built.

          • rily001 on 25/05/2020 - 22:53

            @Logical: This is within 3 years i believe. Its a new development!

            • Logical on 26/05/2020 - 06:49
              +1

              @rily001: In that case the job was rushed with standard building techniques as opposed to more advanced.

  • Hamlet on 25/05/2020 - 16:38

    Hi Billy, thanks for your time and your well explained answers.

    Not sure if you have any experience with this, but how difficult and how much would it be to convert a garage into an additional living space? Will I need council approval for this?

    • [Deactivated] on 25/05/2020 - 17:28

      interested too.

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 20:24
      +2

      Yes you need approval. You can do it without approval but if you rent it out and something goes wrong your insurance is void. If it is just going to be your man cave with carpet and a TV etc. then that is a different story. Both of these options will have vastly different prices and I'm not sure council will even approve it. Maybe as a secondary dwelling - equivalent to granny flat. Think somewhere between 50k and 100k if council allows it.

      • [Deactivated] on 25/05/2020 - 20:46

        i'm just using it as an extra bed for the relatives when they come to australia for holiday

        • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 20:54
          +2

          You have your answer. Maybe even a DIY learning excercise or bring in a handyman to do it for you. It will be much less if you are just fitting out the room and not going to get authority approvals - think around the 10k Mark.

        • Logical on 25/05/2020 - 23:06
          +1

          Hey iheartkfc, as a temporary solution for the relatives then there is no problem. You can buy Carpet squares at a reasonable price and lay them yourself straight onto the slab. This will be half the job done already! Then you can leave the garage door(s) down and seal the garage door wall inside of the room with a timber partition and plasterboard provided you have a window to let fresh air in. This will keep the vermin out and make it look more of a pleasant room.

      • Logical on 25/05/2020 - 22:52

        Hamlet is not asking to convert a garage into a self contained unit.

        Hamlet, is it a single garage or double? Permanent or temporary conversion? Roller doors or panel lift doors?

        Do you want to remove the garage doors and install new windows or sliding glass doors? Is the garage already plastered or has it exposed brickwork/basic walls?

        Carpet or tiles on floor?

        A nice double garage conversion can set you back around $6K. All depending on scope of works.

        • Hamlet on 28/05/2020 - 20:42

          Old single garage with panel lift doors. Thinking possibly of permanent conversion since you can always park the car outside the garage and it'd be nice to have an additional living/play area. It's pretty basic so there will be lots of work needed if indeed it were approved by council. Installing new windows, for example, can cost quite a lot if you have to known down a wall.

    • pippohippo on 26/05/2020 - 21:10
      +1

      pretty sure you need council approval if its a full conversion because of:
      1) Is there street parking, drive way parking, and how bad is the parking in your area
      2) Fire safety. If you main door in the garage to the house is on fire or blocked off, can you exit. Also needs to have lighting and proper ventilation.

      • Logical on 27/05/2020 - 01:54

        Haha

      • Hamlet on 28/05/2020 - 20:41

        Yeah, this makes sense. Unless it's a major renovation such that you can assure that there's multiple exit routes with windows etc. .

  • elonmusk on 25/05/2020 - 17:59

    Do you ask for the first progress payment for a build before or after you have home warranty insurance?

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 20:12

      By law it is done after home warranty insurance. Likewise the bank does not release the first progress payment until the insurance policies are in place and the project is council approved.

    • Logical on 25/05/2020 - 23:47

      What does the contract say Sasta? First progress payment will be due after there is progress on site and in that case insurance would have already been taken out, if not, then breach of contract. A deposit on the other hand is the first payment and is payable as per the contract conditions.

  • Zeusy on 25/05/2020 - 18:17

    Is 15 thousand dollars for a total renovation of a combined laundry./ bathroom (shower no bath) a reasonable price? Tiles to ceiling, new shower, toilet, sink, bench top cupboards?

    • Logical on 25/05/2020 - 18:26

      How many square meters? Quality of fittings? What quality of tiles are you choosing? My ensuite tiles supply cost was $13K plus labour to lay. Marble vanity or bunnings cheapie?

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 20:18
      +3

      It is definitely on the cheap side and also assuming you are reusing existing points and not bringing in New points. One thing to consider poor quality tiles in a shower will discolour and stain very quickly. Likewise poor quality shower fixings can rust, shower glass stains, taps will jam, toilet seats will break and the flushing mechanism will leak, floor waste will rust, door will mishroom, vanity will mushroom etc. The question is if you are spending 15k for cheap quality why not just wait a while and spend a bit over 20k for good quality gear. You generally will only do this once in your life in an area that sees alot of wear and tear.

  • Zeusy on 25/05/2020 - 18:20

    How much roughly should a three bedroom, 2 bathroom and balcony second story extension cost in Maroubra NSW?

    • Logical on 25/05/2020 - 18:28

      Between $2,500 to $3,500 per square meter.

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 20:20

      Hard to say without looking at it and quoting. I woukd recommend you get the design complete and have this firmed. The below can be an indication, or it could be less or it could be more. If you are willing to spend up to 200k then start doing your feasibility and design as budget is your main hurdle.

  • joeyy17 on 25/05/2020 - 19:54

    Best way to get builders licence in 2020? 1 year project engineering experience in tier 1 company, honours in engineering, have family with builders licence

    • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 20:10
      +1

      Just do it as per the process. It is a process driven excercise so you need to tick the boxes. Get your qualification, in your circumstance that is the diploma, then get your two years experience in residential building work (class 1, 2 or 3) buildings and then apply for your licence. Unfortunately you won't get it working for a tier 1, need to figure out if this is what you want to do and then do it. Once you get your licence getting the insurance is another step and this is largely asset driven, you will only be able to do as many projects as your assets allow.

      • joeyy17 on 25/05/2020 - 20:25

        Thanks for your reply.

        So I need to complete the diploma, I’m assuming some components of the honours degree in civil engineering would hopefully get me some credits.

        As for the residential experience, is that as a tradesperson or is that as a builders assistant?

        Cheers

        • TheBilly on 25/05/2020 - 20:51

          You can be a builders assistant. But get exposure to work onsite. I don't just mean this for the fulfillment of the licence. It is good for you, it will make you better.

  • dajiska on 25/05/2020 - 21:31

    Hi Billy the builder,

    What is you suggestion when building a deck, say 3mtrs x 3mtrs and which is cost effective?

    1) To have a cement slab with stones on it or outside weather tiles?
    2) To raise the height with timber deck with polish?
    3) To install the Composite Decking Tiles ontop of compacted roadbase?

    cheers

    • Logical on 25/05/2020 - 23:27
      +1

      Is the deck in the middle of the yard or attached to the house? If in the middle of the yard then best to pour slab for many reasons. No trip/ fall hazards as with timber deck, no rotting timber, less maintenance then timber.

      If deck adjacent to the house then the floor levels should meet with a small step down. Slab is preferred as above, however if house floor is 600mm or more above the ground then timber deck will be more cost effective.

    • moneyhungry on 28/05/2020 - 07:37

      Just a tip if you decide to go with the timber deck, make sure you properly paint and seal underneath and sides of the timber boards them before installing them especially if they are the wider ones. This will help prevent major cupping and expansion during the winter.

  • ganymede on 25/05/2020 - 21:44
    -3

    Hi OP,

    Mind to share some of your trade labour rates?

    Concreting: $/m3
    Formwork: $/m2
    Reo laying: $/kg
    Bricklaying: $/standard brick
    Exterior cement rendering: $/m2
    Interior cement rendering: $/m2
    Interior white set plastering: $/m2
    Wall framing (timber/steel): $/m2
    Roof framing (timber/steel): $/m2
    Roofing including accessories installation: $/m2
    Gutter and fascia installation: $/m
    Downpipe: per number or $/m
    Interior painting: $/m2
    Exterior painting: $/m2
    Waterproofing: $/m2
    Tiling: $/m2

    Labour only, excluding material.

    Thanks.

    • Logical on 25/05/2020 - 23:40

      According to the post, the OP is a site supervisor and not on the tools. He manages the building process so has no rates. You will need to ask the subcontractors!

      • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 13:39
        +2

        Work for myself, and yes correct I only manage the process, I am not on the tools. I have rates but but I do custom projects, so labour rates are unreliable with very large variances from project to project and as a business owner I would say this is dangerous to rely on. Some examples below;

        Concreting: is it a footing that you are pouring with 2 guys off the back of the truck? is it a post tension slab you are pouring with a boom and 12 concretors? is it a class 1 or 2 finish or is it concealed?

        Exterior cement rendering: at ground level? from a scaffold? onto block work or concrete? or onto Dincel or AFS?

        Tiling: size of tile? screed or no screed? type of grout?

        I could go on for days, and unfortunately there is not a single rate for every scenario. The advice above is correct, talk to subcontractors and get it quoted.

    • [Deactivated] on 26/05/2020 - 11:00

      Do your own research Ganymede.

      I only see one question here, and the answer should be no

      Mind to share some of your trade labour rates?

    • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 13:39

      Response below

  • boku on 25/05/2020 - 23:08

    Is it recommended to leave a 10mm gap between the skirting board and the floor if carpets are to be installed for an apartment? I was told this by my handy man, but I never heard of this before.

    • Logical on 25/05/2020 - 23:35

      Some people choose a high skirting board so that the bottom 15mm can be covered by Carpet underlay and carpet itself leaving the skirting with enough visible height to look good and not resemble the size of the architrave. If installing skirting that is only 20mm larger than architraves then it is good to mount the skirting higher off the floor so that it doesn't get covered by the carpet as suggested by your handy man.

      • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 13:39
        +1

        Thanks

    • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 13:46

      Answer below

    • moneyhungry on 28/05/2020 - 07:31

      This is primarily done so the carpet can tucked under the skirting board making it a neater job.

  • hibijibis on 25/05/2020 - 23:41

    Hi Billy, great AMA.

    Just wanted to ask, is it possible to widen a garage?
    I've noticed that some SUV's are pretty wide, and fitting 2 cars into some double garages can be a little tight to open the door.
    I'm wondering how big a job it would be to widen a garage.

    • Logical on 26/05/2020 - 11:36

      Everything is possible. Please advise what the garage structure is made up of eg walls, floor, roof etc. Please provide floor plans of what you have. Extend the slab by a meter and you will need to extend the roof by a meter and if trusses then either all new trusses or add a few more depending on their orientation. Could be simple and cheap eg gable roof with load bearing front wall over garage door, side wall not load bearing.

    • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 13:41

      Answer below, possible, but not worth the cost and may be restricted by council as you can only build up to a certain distance from boundary and sometimes only a certain percentage of your building facade can be garage and the rest has to be entry and living room. See if you can look at things like not using garage as storage to free up space on the sides.

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