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WAVLINK Wi-Fi Range Extender AC1200, $50.99 Delivered @ Amazon AU

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WAVLINK Wi-Fi Range Extender AC1200, $50.99 Delivered @ Amazon AUAffiliate
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uk3000 on 11/05/2020 - 10:06 amazon.com.au (436 clicks)
Last edited 11/05/2020 - 10:19 by 1 other user
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Down from $72.99 as a Lightning Deal on Amazon AU. Presumably, it's model WL-WN575A3, and it is supported by OpenWrt.

Disclaimer: It's been sitting in my cart but I don't have intention to buy it anymore, so I cannot really comment on how good it is, or how well it runs OpenWrt. I was keeping an eye on it to use as a compact OpenWrt router, but I recently converted my home network to another OpenWrt-supported router, namely Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X.

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  • ozrider on 11/05/2020 - 10:08
    +1

    would advise against buying this unit, it constantly locks up, freezes and requires rebooting.

    • uk3000 on 11/05/2020 - 10:16

      Did you have a chance to try it with OpenWrt v19.07.2? For me that would be the only reason to buy it.

  • sosleepy on 11/05/2020 - 10:21
    +1

    Does it extend the main wifi name or does it make a separate wifi? And is it good

    • [Deactivated] on 11/05/2020 - 13:30

      Extenders by nature extend rather than create a mesh.

      Can’t comment on how good it is. But all extenders (and mesh for that matter) can be hit and miss.

      I’ve used two different netgear extenders - current one is pretty good, previous was hopeless.

      It also comes down to placement, building materials etc.

  • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 10:22
    +20

    Network engineer here.
    For openwrt it might be fine.

    However, if you intend to use it as a repeater, keep in mind that repeating your WiFi signal effectively halves its speed.

    Having range problems?
    Look into Ethernet over Power, and a 2nd actual router.

    Having range problems despite having bars?
    Try locking your WiFi to the lowest channel, 20mhz, and N only (unless you need b/g)

    Also check for beam forming options (turn them on).

    Mixed mode on home grade routers is the devil for performance.

    • uk3000 on 11/05/2020 - 10:29

      Perhaps, another good use might be to use it as cheap WiFi-to-Ethernet bridge (using OpenWrt and relayd). One could use (say) 2.4Ghz for the bridge, and even make another access point with 5Ghz.

    • aldroid on 11/05/2020 - 10:35
      +3

      Network Engineer here.
      I strongly discourage the use of Ethernet over Power. In my experience it is hit and miss. Unless you can try before you buy I would steer clear.
      Best option if feasible is to run an Ethernet cable to a central location and install a Ubiquiti AP.
      Alternatively mesh routers are a great option if you have to go completely wireless. Netgear Orbi if you can afford it, otherwise the Tenda Nova MW3 is a great piece of kit and can often be found for under $100 for the 3 node kit.

      • fredblogs on 11/05/2020 - 10:39
        +2

        Can confirm. I had great results with EoP until I moved. Now I only get 3mbps using it.

      • TheNewBargainer on 11/05/2020 - 12:31

        @aldroid I am actually in a situation where I need to upgrade my home (my home office in the furthest possible room from the router, (I am currently getting 7mbps download and 1.2mbps upload).
        I could really use your expertise, but I'm tech illiterate, so I apologise.
        My plan was to get something like the Netgear AX6000 AX12/12-stream, and put it in a central area of the house (like the kitchen). Is this the right move?

        • aldroid on 11/05/2020 - 13:32
          +3

          Firstly you need to determine where the bottleneck is. If you can, plug an Ethernet cable into your router and a laptop and run a speedtest. If you aren't able to do that connect a laptop via 5Ghz wifi within close proximity of the router and run a speedtest. If your internet speed is poor there is no point spending money on extra equipment.
          Personally something like the AX6000 AX12/12-stream is overkill for most people. Unless you have multiple users gaming and streaming high def or 4K there's really no point spending that sort of money.
          Mesh network would really be your best option. On a budget the Tenda Nova MW3 does a great job. I've installed these for many clients and use them myself in my home and have never had any trouble with them. If you want something better the Netgear Orbi range is excellent.

      • Miami Mall Alien on 11/05/2020 - 13:21
        -1

        In my experience it is hit and miss.

        It's a lot less hit and miss than a WiFi repeater.

        Unless you can try before you buy I would steer clear.

        That's why you just buy a pair of EOP adapters from Officeworks and then return them within the 2 week change of mind period if they don't work out. If you plug them in and and the status LEDs light up green, you're good to go; otherwise back they go.

        For modern homes built in the last 2 decades, EOP should be fine.

        The latest HomePlug AV2 standard is much better at handling higher SNR/noise levels and can work over different circuits as well.

        Best option if feasible is to run an Ethernet cable to a central location and install a Ubiquiti AP.

        That's precisely why EOP adapters are an option, because it's not always feasible.
        Renters can't exactly wire up their house with CAT6 on a whim nor does everyone want to spend to dough the make permanent alterations to their home.

    • wpw on 11/05/2020 - 10:36

      What would you recommend for a shed 30m away from router.
      Wifi is just reachable at the moment and using RT-AC68U on nbn.
      I use a extension lead to power tools inside.
      Any help on how i can improve

      • aldroid on 11/05/2020 - 10:51

        If it's a tin shed, they can be tricky as when closed they are effectively a Faraday cage and will block wifi signals. If you can put a device at a window and achieve close to line of sight back to the router you might have a chance. Other options are Power over Ethernet (as stated above, not reliable, try before you buy if possible), run an Ethernet cable, or use some type of externally mounted wireless bridge (Ubiquiti do a good range of outdoor bridges).

        • wpw on 11/05/2020 - 10:59

          Yea tin shed.
          Standing at the doorway is ok but inside it dies.
          My power lead has multiple plug-ins (tools lights etc) and i thought POe needed a dedicated lead?
          Was hoping for wifi extender , do you have a perferable model.
          Should mention, door is opened when inside and direct line of site to house.

          • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 11:06

            @wpw: Ethernet over power can be great, its just something you need to try.

            I have an accidental mesh network with my street, because the sockets can see each other.

            Ive never had one fail yet, slow, sure, fail, nope.

            For a tin shed, its probably ideal, because even 3Mbps is a usable speed for SD video, internet radio, googling, etc etc. all the usual shed stuff lol

            • wpw on 11/05/2020 - 11:38

              @MasterScythe: And other devices plugged into the same lead wont be an issue.
              Not after speed just connecting for basic internet
              The other issue i just thought about is the need to reconect due to extension lead being removed when not in use, Or will it auto reconnect.

              • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 12:36
                +1

                @wpw: They usually auto reconnect just fine.
                AC power tools can be hell for ANYTHING really, because they're noisy.

                Your best bet, is to get an EoP socket that has power passthrough.
                Put the EoP socket direct into the wall, and then make sure the PowerBoard has EMF\EMI filtering (THOR brand is usually fairly good).

                This way, your tools can use power and the noise back to the EoP should be minimal.

                • wpw on 11/05/2020 - 14:04

                  @MasterScythe: Thanks for the input.
                  Will start looking for EoP setup.
                  Cheers

        • Twix on 11/05/2020 - 13:03

          Power over Ethernet (as stated above, not reliable, try before you buy if possible)

          Power over Ethernet (PoE) is very reliable. Your talking about Ethernet over Power (EoP).

          • aldroid on 11/05/2020 - 13:15
            +1

            @Twix: Correct, that was clearly an error. PoE is awesome.

      • Twix on 11/05/2020 - 13:06

        Pair a 2nd ASUS RT-AC68U in the shed using ASUS mesh.

        PoE needs a dedicated cable.

    • Danstar on 11/05/2020 - 11:02

      Nice comment MasterScythe. (Y)

      Have had to tinker with all those options in the past to figure out what works best.

      I recently bought a new Modem/Router, was thinking can I use my current modem/router as a router only to plug into a recent ethernet port I got installed in my kids room ?

      It's a Telstra modem, TG799vac?

      • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 11:08

        Yes you can.

        Just use a unique name, and set the transmit power to minimum.

        Also, for kids, while its easy for nerds to bypass, set the DNS settings in the kids router to the "family shield" DNS, adult sites somewhat blockexld, with no software :)

        • coxymla on 11/05/2020 - 11:28
          +1

          Don't use a unique name. Set the SSID and PW to be exactly the same and you will roam between access points fine.

          • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 12:37

            @coxymla: That seems counter intuitive to giving the kids their own access point…… I would have assumed filtering and control would be a key feature?
            You don't think so?

            • coxymla on 11/05/2020 - 12:49

              @MasterScythe: I guess it depends whether it's more about locking down the kids or improving wifi coverage over that side of the house.

              • Danstar on 11/05/2020 - 12:51

                @coxymla: Improving wifi coverage. The modem at the front of the house doesn't reach the back of the house. I have one of those Xiamoi wifi extenders which seems to be dying on me

                Got an Ethernet port installed in their room for TV/Consoles, but they still need wifi for ipad / phone

                • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 12:57
                  +2

                  @Danstar: Fair cop, then I stand corrected.

                  If you want free roaming between them, then yes:
                  Same name
                  same password
                  same auth method
                  different channel.

                  If you want to 'stealthily' filter their stuff a little.
                  Give them their own wifi name and such, and use this:
                  https://www.opendns.com/setupguide/#familyshield

                  Only down side to doing it that way, is that your devices won't seamlessly-roam between them, they'll disconnect for about 1 to 2 seconds, as they switch over. (still automatic, just not seamless).

                  They can still google search boobs or whatever, and there's hundreds that aren't blocked of course, but trying to do the obvious like visiting pornhub just don't work.

        • chriise on 11/05/2020 - 14:58

          I have a similar issue… the NBN FTTP is fitted into the kid's bedroom wardrobe (like that when we moved in) which means the wifi range is terrible. I have ethernet ports around the house. Could I just pick up a second router and plug it into the ethernet port in the living room? Would it be better to set this up as an AC or a separate wifi on the same SSID/PW?

          Thanks for your tech support..!!

          • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 15:04

            @chriise: Yes you can do that.
            As for 'better', I've already outlined the pros and cons in the post you've replied to.

            On a personal level, I like different access names, and I turn down the range so they don't really overlap (or have one on 2.4 and one on 5g).
            But that's a personal preference, because I'm a control freak.

            Just make sure they're not on the same channel, and you're pretty golden.

            • chriise on 11/05/2020 - 15:10

              @MasterScythe: I assumed you could set same SSID/PW on either an AC or separate router set up, but I have mostly no idea what i'm talking about.

              I saw you've given some advice on limiting to 20Mhz and "n only". I might give that a go. Strangely when I run a speed test over wifi it appears pretty decent, but no way it translates into a smooth experience in practice. I often just go with the crappy 4g coverage when using my phone in the house.

              Edit: i meant AP for access point in both my comments, not AC!

              • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 15:27

                @chriise: Yes, you'll find that a LOT of things affect your wifi.

                Grab 'WiFi Analyzer (Open-Source)' on you phone, and check what channels have least access points on them.
                1, 6, and 11 are the channels that do NOT overlap.
                Whichever channel has the least, you want to lock your router to that one.

                Then, disable everything on your wifi you don't use.
                If it has a 5G mode, but you're happy with 2.4 speeds? Disable it.
                Alternatively; too many 2.4Ghz radios in your street? Perhaps 5G has no competition?

                Backward compatibility (B\G), fancy named 'Burst' modes that promise to be faster, but only with that brand. Disable them all.

                Basically, most home wifi solutions suffer from 2 things.
                1. A slow CPU, so it needs to actively 'think' about every thing it needs to do; and you feel that delay.
                2. An AIO style radio, meaning any type of 20/40mhz bandwith changes, frequency changes, channel changes, you name it, all require 'resetting' the radio, which means delay, and re-sending of data.

                Set your bandwith to a narrow mode (20mhz on 2.4, 40Mhz on 5G)
                Set your preamble to Short.
                Lock your channel to the least used one.
                Disable WPS on the router.
                DTIM Interval: 2
                Beacon: 100
                Any sort of 'generic beamforming' can stay on. Any sort of 'brand specific' beam forming, can be off.

                Let me know how you go :)

                • chriise on 11/05/2020 - 15:34

                  @MasterScythe: Wow dude thanks so much! i'm actually excited to have a mess around with it later and try your suggestions. I will let you know how I get on.

                  Btw, does my experience with speed tests seem strange? I just ran a test on my mobile now and get a steady 95/37, but I open up youtube or load webpages and it just doesn't give that experience.

                  • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 15:56
                    +1

                    @chriise: No, it's not strange.
                    WiFi is a 'polite' technology. It will wait for other devices before yours gets a turn.
                    So, lets estimate….. keeping in mind it DOESN'T MATTER if the device is connected or not; it STILL affects it, if the WiFi is simply ON.

                    Smart TV, Smart Watch, Phone, Games Console, Computer, iPad, Lighting…….
                    If the only thing you want to use is the Phone, it STILL has to wait for ALL of those appliances to say 'I'm good, you go next!' before it gets a turn. And that's just YOUR equipment. This ALSO applies to ANYTHING in range, like neighbors or passing pedestrians.

                    This is why it's so critical to turn off any WiFi options that you don't use on all your devices. Cable everything you can. Make sure the Channels don't overlap\aren't busy, and go from there.

                    As you're seeing now, to get those speeds, you MUST be on a 40Mhz bandwith, which is 'fast' but uses more channels, ergo, more interferance, more devices to wait for.

                    If you limit it to 20Mhz, you'll be limited to about 48Mbps, but it'll be a STABLE 48Mbps, which is MORE than usable.

                  • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 17:11
                    +1

                    @chriise: Oh, also, when you're in your router settings, change your DNS settings to 1.1.1.1 (CloudFlare) and secondary 8.8.8.8 (Google)
                    Just untick "Obtain Automatically" if it's set.

                    Basically, slow performance on webpages, but not on speed tests can often be due to bad routing paths, which are usually instigated by bad DNS servers (like, your ISP…..)

    • aaron1988 on 11/05/2020 - 17:03
      -1

      hi, i set up a second router from living room (main router) to study room (second router) with cable.

      in study room, cable directly to PC, I can get internet. however, if I put the cable to the second router it does not work.

      all settings are correct

      • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 20:51

        all settings are correct

        Then why doesn't it work?

  • dlovep on 11/05/2020 - 10:32

    However, if you intend to use it as a repeater, keep in mind that repeating your WiFi signal effectively halves its speed.

    Need a bit more specify detail, just my 2 cents.

    If using Wifi to Wifi repeater - Yes, not more than half.

    If using Cat5/6 to this as repeater - No.

    • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 11:09

      then its not a repeater. Thats a gateway.

  • gasman70 on 11/05/2020 - 10:42

    Lots of network engineers here. I’m currently with ABB but the wifi with their stock router is awful (the 2.4GHz band is >10mbps but the 5GHz is considerably better but overloaded).
    Can anyone recommend a good router that, affordable and is easily to set up?

    • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 11:11
      +2

      Abb, sorry to hear. Regardless.

      Try forcing the modem to 20MHz and "n only" forget g/b.

      As I said, mixed mode on ANY home router is the devil in many unpredictable ways, depending on brand.

      Also try disabling your own 5g, see if it helps.

  • ratoloko on 11/05/2020 - 10:50

    Waste of money. Prefer to have 2 wireless routers:

    • do not go cheap and prefer the AC routers. I have an AC1600 wireless router and play my Xbox, 4k content on my TV, everything connected with the 5Ghz network reaching my 100/50 internet connection without problems. No cables :)
    • same network name
    • very important: different channel as one channel cannot cross the other
    • same password
    • same authentication - WPA2 for example
    • use 5Ghz instead of the old and poor 2.4Ghz
    • connect the second wireless with the primary one via RJ45 network cable

    You can move between them with no dropping, no package loss. I use the same setup within the huge company's warehouse but using Enterprise solution such as Ubiquiti.

    • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 12:39

      No packet loss? How?
      You should see at least a few lost packets between the DTIM\Beacon packet when switching routers…..
      Are you sure it's not just minimal packet loss? What are you logging with?

    • Miami Mall Alien on 11/05/2020 - 13:31
      +1

      use 5Ghz instead of the old and poor 2.4Ghz

      Old and poor? 2.4Ghz has far better penetration through every kind of material compared to 5Ghz and a far longer range.

      5Ghz is for line-of-sight connections. Anything past 4 metres is a crapshoot on 5Ghz, not to mention that 100Mbp/s or slower Internet connections don't actually saturate all of the additional bandwidth on the 5Ghz spectrum. If you're relying on 5Ghz to maximise LAN transfer speeds, then fine, but for Internet-only devices, 2.4Ghz is more than adequate and a lot more reliable.

      • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 15:06
        +1

        It's funny, as we 'demand' more connectivity, and slowly reliability is actually taking priority over speed (in the wireless sector at least) I'm surprised to not see 900mhz modes being used.

        She'd be slow, but a 100m+ 10Mb connection would be bliss for so many industries and people.

    • Hamlet on 11/05/2020 - 20:43

      Won't you have to have a really long network cable to connect the two router if the routers are placed at opposite ends of the house?

      • Twix on 12/05/2020 - 12:42

        Two routers need a RJ45 ethernet cable.

        Mesh routers use a wireless connection although RJ45 ethernet cable can be used where supported.

  • Digitalco on 11/05/2020 - 11:00

    I want to extend 5GHz on my wifi what do you guys recommend?

    • uk3000 on 11/05/2020 - 11:07

      I have good results with a pair of TP-Link AV2000 powerline adapters and two RT-AC68U used as dumb WiFi access points.

      • Digitalco on 11/05/2020 - 11:20

        what do you mean dumb wifi ap?

        • coxymla on 11/05/2020 - 11:29

          Get cheap routers and disable DHCP and everything and just use them as Wifi Access Points.

          • Digitalco on 11/05/2020 - 11:31

            @coxymla: got ya but wouldn't i need to connect it to the main router with ethernet cable

            • coxymla on 11/05/2020 - 11:32

              @Digitalco: Yeah you would.

              • Digitalco on 11/05/2020 - 11:35

                @coxymla: will it be the same network or different network? i got this Netgear D6400 AC1600 Dual-Band Wireless one but much older do you think it will work

                • coxymla on 11/05/2020 - 12:00

                  @Digitalco: If it's "much" older you probably won't want it because it may not be dual band or may not have AC support.
                  But in general it will work.

        • uk3000 on 11/05/2020 - 11:37

          They are connected by ethernet cable (one of them via Powerline) to the main wired-only router. Each RT-AC68U runs Merlin firmware and is configured as Access Point (same 5Ghz network name, different channels). My mobile devices roam between them utilizing generic WiFi roaming.

          • sosleepy on 11/05/2020 - 12:03

            @uk3000: Will this affect the speed?

            • uk3000 on 11/05/2020 - 12:42

              @sosleepy: I didn't do local bandwith testing, but here's my fast.com test from right now, using a laptop with an AC WiFi card on my 5Ghz network. I have a 100Mbps FTTP NBN connection.

              https://imgur.com/a/jUtlyQc

    • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 11:14

      Anything DESIGNED to be meshed is always better if you must do it wirelessly.

      Even Asus AiMesh on old DSL routers and such work fairly OK

      • uk3000 on 11/05/2020 - 11:21

        I personally had terrible results with these two RT-AC68U connected together as mesh network.

        • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 12:40

          Merlin Firmware?

          • uk3000 on 11/05/2020 - 12:49

            @MasterScythe: Merlin firmware indeed, but I did try the genuine Asus firmware, too. And these are not T-Mobile converted units. I almost decided to buy Google Nest WiFi, but AV2000 put me out of misery. I understand the whole thing is very specific to this particular apartment and I'm lucky that powerline works really well here.

            • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 12:53
              +1

              @uk3000: How Odd, though there WAS about 3 released of the firmware (official and merlin) where the Mesh, and a few other wifi features just…. failed…
              I BELIEVE it was to do with NVRAM filling or some such; not clearing old ARP entries and repeating the same ones.
              But i'm speaking out my arse here, just trying to remember from a long time ago :P All I know for sure, is that there WERE issues for a while.

              Seems to be stable now :)

              My DSL-68U has the heatsinks glued directly to the chips, using JBWeld, and a fan hole cut in the back, with an 80mm fan running off the USB port.
              Runs at a nice cool 40c (roughly) on all chips.
              Great freebie from a mate because it 'froze all the time' (at it's previous 110c) :P

              • uk3000 on 11/05/2020 - 13:25

                @MasterScythe: Yeah I might have put more efforts into Asus troubleshooting, but not being an networking expert, I just read somewhere that traditional WiFi roaming can work better than Mesh, if you have a reliable ethernet layer. I only needed it for one segment anyway, and TP-Link AV2000 (BCM60500 chipset) worked surprisingly well.

                There's a interesting article on anandtech.com on the subj, their conclusion:

                … in almost all cases (except for a few UDP ones), the HomePlug AV2 2000-class D-Link DHP-P701AV delivers better throughput.

                So might not just be me who is a happy camper with AV2000 :-)

                • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 13:30
                  +1

                  @uk3000:

                  BCM60500

                  Ah, Broadcom. Is there anything they Can't do?

                  • uk3000 on 11/05/2020 - 13:41
                    +1

                    @MasterScythe: Broadcom are good, but sadly not opensource-friendly at all. BTW, my main router is now Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X, and it's an amazing piece of hardware for its tiny size and price point, now that it runs the latest OpenWrt. It's mt7621-based and has support for hardware flow offloading, you might be interested to read this thread.

    • klaw81 on 11/05/2020 - 11:18

      It depends on the size and shape of the coverage area you need, but in general you'll get best results by one of the following methods:

      1. Disable WiFi on your current modem/router and get a mesh WiFi setup with 2 or more nodes; or

      2. Disable WiFi on your current modem/router and install a decent quality dedicated Access Point in a central location.

      Option 1 is usually preferred for rentals, but Option 2 is theoretically cheaper if you can run a single network cable from your current router to a central location.

      Either of these options will improve your WiFi coverage because the WiFi hardware and antennas in cheap routers included with 'default' telco deals are almost universally terrible low-quality turds, and the physical location of your router is often sub-optimal to begin with.

      • Digitalco on 11/05/2020 - 11:29

        yeah option 1 is the easier option for me what mesh do you recommend

        • klaw81 on 11/05/2020 - 13:54
          +1

          Mostly depends on your budget really. On a budget, the Tenda Nova MW3 and Eero mesh options are cheap and give good coverage and reasonable data speeds. If you can spend a little more, Google WiFi is excellent and can deliver really high speeds.

          Ubiquiti also has some really good mesh systems but requires a higher level of expertise to use properly, so wouldn't recommend unless you're technically inclined….whereas Google Wifi is dead simple.

          Either way, you're almost certainly better off entirely disabling the garbage WiFi on your current router.

        • Twix on 11/05/2020 - 13:56

          AmpliFi by Ubiquiti Labs.

    • ratoloko on 11/05/2020 - 11:27
      +2

      2 AC routers connected via RJ45 using 5Ghz. Anything other than that is a waste of money and poor performance.

  • kazzman on 11/05/2020 - 11:19

    Anyone use pfsense? I'm thinking about setting one up but looking for a some cheap hardware options to run it.

    • XeKToReX on 11/05/2020 - 11:31

      Have used it, pretty powerful but I wouldn't bother unless you're really going for something specific, pretty expensive way to go if you just want a router.

      • kazzman on 11/05/2020 - 11:32

        Yeah, my main requirement is to separate out IOT devices into VLANs and to have an OpenVPN server running. I was considering a Unifi SCG, but keep hearing it's a bit lacking in performance.

        • MasterScythe on 11/05/2020 - 12:44
          +1

          ASUS routers that run Merlin firmware can do what you want.
          I have a 'guest' network setup for my IoT devices, with 'intranet' turned off.

          The TLDR, is that, yes I can intercept multicast traffic because we're TECHNICALLY on the same VLAN (or at it seems).
          So It's not "Hacker level secure" like PfSense can be (look into OpnSense and IpFire also).

          Reality, is that IoT devices aren't powerful enough (yet….) to do cross-network attacks, if they're 'dodgy' they're going to be doing MITM attacks, and possibly trying to do something with uPnP (be sure to disable this).

          Basically; if your modem allows for a 'guest' network thats isolated from your real network, you're probably safe enough for a few years, until all IoT things get as powerful as flagship phones; even then, automated cross network attacks are….. risky. People will notice that easily, where they wont notice MITM snooping. it's business suicide.

    • ratoloko on 11/05/2020 - 11:40

      pfsense is more like "one more router option". The main difference is that it is well performed with the right hardware compared with the rubbish branded routers out there.
      You could say that it is like OpenWrt, security oriented, etc, but more complex to manage. I have pfsense in the company with private hardware. You set it up and forget about it.

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