• expired

Penrite HPR 5 Engine Oil - 5W-40, HPR 10 Engine Oil - 10W-50 5 Litre - $30 (More than 50% off) at Supercheap Auto

950

My favourite oil, but not it the right size for my car, I need 6L, so not gonna buy this time

Penrite HPR 5 Engine Oil - 5W-40 5 Litre

Description
Is this product for you?

Penrite HPR 5 is a premium, full synthetic SAE 5W-40 Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) warranty, Fully Licensed/Approved engine oil. It features a DOUBLE LAYER of engine wear protection with FULL ZINC and Penrite’s advanced EXTRA TEN technology. It uses a combination of the latest additive technology and a low shear rate viscosity modifier, to ensure additional protection against wear, corrosion, oxidation, piston deposits and sludge under tough conditions. Licensed by the API (American Petroleum Institute) to meet SN specifications ensuring quality and satisfaction. It also exceeds the latest European ACEA A3/B4 requirements as well as JASO MA and many other manufacturers’ specifications and is an OEM Approved product for Mercedes Benz vehicles requiring MB-Approval 229.5.

What does it suit?

For use in modern 4, 6 and 8+ cylinder multi-cam, multi-valve (including VVT), naturally aspirated, supercharged & turbocharged engines. Recommended for use in vehicles where SAE 5W-30 or SAE 10W-30 or SAE 5W-40 engine oils were originally recommended by the manufacturer. It can be used where ILSAC GF-3 / GF-4 / GF-5 and or where ACEA A1/B1 (Obsolete) and A5/B5 fuel economy and long service life specifications are requested by the manufacturer. It can also be used where API SN and previous API specifications SM (2004-10), SL (2001-04), SJ are recommended. Suitable for use in LPG and light duty diesel engines where API CF, ACEA A3/B3 and A3/B4 is recommended. It is NOT suitable for use in diesels fitted with a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) that require an ACEA “C” grade Low-SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus & Sulphur) engine oil. For use in passenger cars, 4WD’s, light commercial vehicles can be used in four stroke motorcycles that use a wet clutch system. It is compatible with Petrol/LPG (Dual Fuel)/E10 & Diesel and other conventional fuels. Can be used with E85 fuels for competition purpose. Penrite recommend changing the oil more regularly if using E85 fuel.

Extra 10 Technology

HPR 5 features Penrite’s Extra Ten Technology in the oils operating temperature viscosity that provides better wear protection, oil pressure and reduced oil consumption at operating temperature. It provides an added layer of protection for engines that are under high load conditions, competition, operating in high ambient temperatures or showing signs of excessive oil consumption.

Features
5 Litre
5W-40
API SN/CF
ACEA A3/B4
Full Synthetic
Extra ten provides an extra layer of engine protection
Full zinc additive package for superior engine wear protection
Latest oil technology for less wear, sludge & piston deposits
OEM approved to maintain manufacturers’ warranty & specifications
JASO MA, MB-Approved 229.5, BMW LongLife-04

Penrite HPR 10 Engine Oil - 10W-50 5 Litre

Description
Is this product for you?

Penrite HPR 10 is a premium, full synthetic SAE 10W-50 engine oil. It features a DOUBLE LAYER of engine wear protection with FULL ZINC and Penrite’s advanced EXTRA TEN technology. It uses a combination of the latest additive technology and a low shear rate viscosity modifier, to ensure additional protection against wear, corrosion, oil oxidation, piston deposits and sludge under all conditions. It is particularly suited for use under high load conditions such as towing and competition or where ambient temperatures are high.

What does it suit?

For use in modern 4, 6 and 8+ cylinder multi-cam, multi-valve (including VVT), naturally aspirated, supercharged & turbocharged engines. It is not suitable for use in Rotary engines. Recommended for use in vehicles where SAE 10W-40 or SAE 10W-50 engine oils were originally recommended by the manufacturer. It can be used where ACEA A3/B3 or ACEA A3/B4 is recommended in model years prior to 2017 and where API SN and previous API specifications SM (2004-2010), SL (2001-2004), SJ (1998-2000) or earlier specifications are recommended .Suitable for use in many Diesel and LPG powered vehicles requiring an engine oil meeting API CF or older specifications. It is not recommended for use in diesel vehicles fitted with a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter). For use in passenger cars, competition & high performance vehicles, 4WD’s and light commercial vehicles and is compatible with Petrol, LPG (Dual Fuel), E10, E85 (competition), Diesel (Non- DPF) and other conventional and racing fuels. If using with E85, Penrite recommend more frequent service intervals. It is not recommended for use in motorcycles.

Extra 10 Technology

Features Penrite’s Extra Ten Technology in the oils operating temperature viscosity that provides better wear protection, oil pressure and reduced oil consumption at operating temperature. It provides an added layer of protection for engines that are under high load conditions, competition, operating in high ambient temperatures or showing signs of excessive oil consumption.

Features
5 Litre
10W-50
API SN/CF ACEA A3/B4
Full Synthetic Engine Oil
Full Zinc Additive Technology
Minimises Wear & Increases Engine Life
Minimises Sludge
Reduces Engine & Piston Deposits
Formulated for use in wide range of latest generation petrol cars & 4WDs
Developed to give an optimum balance between engine protetion & fuel economy

Related Stores

Supercheap Auto
Supercheap Auto

closed Comments

  • Great price! shame it isn't the 6L bottle :(

    • yeah, price is awesome, wish it is 6L at similar price per L

  • +1

    If you need 6L penrite has a very similar formula between oils; blend with anything you have lying around from the same 'range' (hpr).

    Or, you know, if you drive often, odds are you're changin oil twice a year, 5 bottles will give you 2 years, and some topup/spill leeway.

    Very good oil. Could use some Moly (penrite, please stop being scared of new proven additives…) but at least it has an ok level of zinc and some boron (if you wanna call the tiny dose 'some', haha).

    Decent TBN and almost diesel levels of sulfated ash.

    Ive always liked hpr5.
    Its like if hpr10 had additives.

  • I saw this as I was going to bed, but waited til this morning to post. I was too late! Haha

    It says it fits my car Ford Focus Sport 2L Petrol 2012/2013. My manual says 5W-30 tho? I'm near the 90,000KM. Anyone have any idea?

    • +9

      Yep, perfectly fine.
      5w30 in Australian climate is a manufacturers way of saying fuel economy over film strength.

      Just to educate; the only time you need a thin oil, is if you sustain high revvs.

      Oil is a coolant as well as a lube. But its main job is as a barrier.
      Thicker oils will perform their 'barrier' job better; but do they cool?
      They need to 'fall off' engine parts, back to the sump, quickly enough to keep engine parts (and itself) at an acceptable temp.
      In our climate, even a 20w50 does that just fine in a modern engine.

      If you revv high, for long periods, it needs to 'fall off' quicker, and this is where thinner oils can help.
      So unless you hold 6000+RPM for more than 3 second intervals commonly, practically anything factory or thicker will be fine.

      A lot of people drive autos these days, meaning revvs rarely leave the 3k range; especially safe to run "any oil" within reason (for example, i dont think id run 25w60 in a 0w16 prius; but within reason)

      • Drives v8 and high revs all the time, engine needs top top every two weeks, what oil would you think can be recommended in this case? Thanks

        • +1

          "engine needs top top every two weeks"

          Ermmm, something thicker? You need to ask yourself WHY it's burning oil.
          Yes, high revvs means blowby which means some will burn, but I redline to 8.5k in every gear and only need to top up monthly (and it's only 500ml).

          Also, not many V8's are capable of high revvs, what is this? Audi?

          • @MasterScythe: Aging X5m v8 4.4 tt, engine almost gone for it’s age, probably gasket seals or piston rings which ended with bit blue smoke when warm. Might needs a rebuilt in the near future but currently using 5w30, thinking using 5w40 now.

            • @[Deactivated]: Has it got a lot of km? I've got one car near 400k and one 320k and they both need very minimal top up between 10,000km changes.

              They are both Toyota, maybe that'd the difference? Are BMW engines not built for longevity?

              • @placard: All the European car that I have driven that includes but not limited to : bmw, audi, Vw, Alfa … either has oil leak issues or burning oil related problems after certain age, of course not every single one of them but from what I heard from garages, they tend to get these problems fairly easily when aged. My current bmw which might be a different story since high Km and being tuned, rev high etc which might caused internal gasket or other seals broken that leads to the frequent top up issue, so I’m thinking maybe to change to a slightly thicker oil to see how it goes.

                • +1

                  @[Deactivated]: Unless you're sustaining high revvs, I'd go even thicker for better film stability.
                  10w40 would be my first try; actually, if I owned it, I'd be using HPR10. 10w50. it'll shear to a 40ish weight in the first few hundred kms like all multigrade oils.

    • +1

      The original post got deleted but I did reply. The penrite 5w40 supports 5w30 cars too and I've used this hpr in my ford fiesta and Kuga for years (they also require 5w30).

      • Is ford really releasing manuals that say a specific weight, exclusively?
        They dont have an industry standard 'oil table' showing temperature vs whats acceptable?

        I know the xr6's had a proper table in their manual; but perhaps not the others?
        Id just be surprised if they didnt show everything up to 20w50 being OK above 0degC

        • The manual for my dad's 2010 FG XR6 only states 5W-30 ILSAC GF4, Ford WSS-M2C929-A. No table.

          Wondering how different HPR 5 is compared to Enviro+ GF-5, which is the only oil in Penrite's lineup that meets M2C929-A.

          • @Junk Sifter: The enviro range is designed for low sulphur fuel; almost no fuel in Australia meets that.
            Our 98RON fuels are lowER sulphur, but not low by the rest of the worlds standards.

            My bet would be that fords M2C929-A spec, has to do with Catalytic converter efficiency and emissions.
            I'd prefer to replace a cat a year early, than an engine, ever.

      • Awesome
        Just wasn't 100% sure
        Oil capacity is 5.4L, does that mean I need more than 1 bottle?

        No way Ford fills it up, no other car I've owned other than this Ford has had the Oil light come up right around service time. 🤣🤣🤣

        • +1

          5.4L is likely when 'dry'.
          You'll probably find 1 bottle is spot-on.

          If not; 400ml down is safe to drive to buy more.

          Perhaps grab a 1L bottle to keep in the car for top ups when you do your weekly (or monthly, if you're slack) tire/water/oil check.

          • @MasterScythe: I don't check, but I've owned V8s and a 370Z and actually never had low oil.
            This car, everytime the light comes on near service.

            Ford's the only dealership to ever offer me injector cleans, blah blah other than Lube Mobile asking for $150 for an Air Filter replacement 😬

            I barely do 10,000kms a year, I'm like 25,000kms ahead of scheduled servicing by the log book.
            Following service is a Major, so I'll probably do that at Ford but this 1 coming is minor.

            • @[Deactivated]: Ah, owned a 370z eh?

              The car where you check your oil 3 times a week because they used big piston clearances accidentally. Haha.

              Great car, great engine for making monster power with some boost (big clearances!) But terrible for people who dont check their fluids.

              Ive seen countless with engine damage from oil level.

              • @MasterScythe: It was a NA engine, and never had an issue with the engine to be honest.
                I always get my car's serviced in time, or before. I just cant be bothered spending $280 for a basic oil change for this daily, Ford's expensive for servicing.

                • @[Deactivated]: They only came NA; it's just that Nissans 'screw up' resulted in much more oil use, but much more tolerance for handling high power when you boost them.
                  Everybody, Just be sure you check your fluids and tyres at least monthly (weekly is better).
                  I love my friends and family; anyone who's piloting a 1 tonne piece of death metal should be checking that it will move reliably if asked to, and stop reliably if asked to.

              • @MasterScythe: my z34 ran perfect in my few years of ownership. not one maintenance point ever showed any point of stress. maybe thats because i maintained it though

        • If its actually an oil light btw, not a service interval light, stop driving immediately.

          Thats what we call a "dummy light" because the owner is a dummy and didnt check often enough.
          Also because its useless "oops oil light came on" is already too late.

          Those 'oil can' lights come on at 3-5psi of oil pressure (2.*psi in a subaru…); your engine normally operates between 40-100psi in most cars.

          Basically, if you see an oil light, you've likely done significant damage. 3-5psi is not enough to stop metal touching.

          Check more often.

          Also, it shouldnt use a full sump during a standard service interval.

          So you've either got a leak, or enough engine wear that you NEED a thicker oil.

          • @MasterScythe: I don't think so? It literally starts flashing on/off near service time.

            They've always said my engines in amazing condition!

            I have checked oil when the lights come up, and the levels look fine. Temperature has never risen btw!

            Maybe that's why it recommends this Oil now? Should I do an injector clean, or something?

            Last guy from Lube Mobile said the engine is perfect :/

            • +3

              @[Deactivated]: Injector cleans are a fake product, unless they're removing them from the car and reverse flowing them in a proper machine.
              This should be done probably every 300'000kms unless you see issues.

              Read the bottle; 947ml/L hydrocarbons.
              Basically, alcohol (probably ethanol, it's cheap) in a bottle.
              If you want to clean your engines fuel system, One tank of E10 fuel will do a better job.

              If your car is NOT E10 compatible (I call BS by the way, unless it's a 70's VW with cork gaskets), then half a tank (resulting in E5) will do the job fine, be safe, and still be better than any single use bottle.

              ps. unless they're doing tests like compression and leakdown, which can take overnight; there's no way for any service-guy to know if your engine is in good condition or not. He's just making small talk to make you feel like he's the guy you want back next time.

  • The 7 litre HPR 10 is at basically the same price per litre. $59.49, was $84.99. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/penrite-penrite-hpr-10-e…

    • +3

      you might want to double check your maths

  • -1

    Which is better between Penrite HPR 5 and Castrol Edge 5W-30 A3/B4?

    Nevermind, found some info here: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/…

  • anyone know know how long you can keep oil stored? i was looking at buy 2 or 3 bottle to service my over a number of years. is that a good idea to keep oil around for that long?

    • It's common for people to buy a 205 litre drum and store it in their shed for use over a few years, so I can't see why it'd be an issue. You want to make sure you keep it out of the sun so the plastic bottle doesn't degrade, though.

    • Most companies state 4 years

      • i suppose a drum is much more stable than plastic bottles.

        more worried about putting degraded oil into my car and screwing it up. i had a old oil container that i have left in the shed for about 10 years. Although it doesn't look like it degraded, i am not really want to risk engine damage for $30.

        • +1

          bad oil is very obvious visually. if it is still golden, no contaminants, good consistency, it will be fine

    • Think about the environment the oil will be in inside the sealed bottle compared to the oil when it's inside your engine.
      The oil that's inside the engine is exposed to extreme heat and pressure the entire time it's in use.

  • Nice I use 5W40 in my WRX will be getting some more.

  • Thanks, got two C&C.

  • -1

    Hmm penrite, you get what you pay for.

    • +2

      Group 3/4
      High sulfated ash (good)
      Medium high TBN (pretty good)
      High zinc content (good)
      Matching phos content (good)
      Slight boron content (better than none)

      If you really need it to be better, you can add the new nulon Moly additive; but you'd better be using long drain intervals or high load conditions to warrant modifying hpr5.

      Off topic:

      I once saw someone running the race blend (original blend) of royal purple on the street; i asked: "what are you doing to protect your bearings from the zinc content over 1500ppm?" Huh? He replied… OK…
      "What are you using to clean your soot? There's almost no sulfated ash in RoyalPurple" look how clean my oil is! He replied.
      "Yes, thats bad, if the oil is too clean, its not cleaning your deposits".
      He was clueless.

      There is a street blend now, which a VOA shows looks very much like penrite 10tenths (street blend), but a few years back, people had no clue; 'race oil' cant be left sitting.

  • +1

    For those with motorbikes, the HPR5 5W-40 is JASO MA, so good for most motorbikes.

  • Could someone please tell me if this is better / worse?

    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/penrite-penrite-full-syn…

    I have some on hand now but will buy some this 5L for future, just interested to know what would be considered the better oil

    • +2

      HPR range is better than their 'full synthetic' range.

  • Anyone had experience between this and Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40?

    The helix were really good. Makes a difference in my car. Just wondering if the same can be said with penrite?

    • +1

      I have used both in my 242kW 480Nm Volvo S60 T6 and I can't pick any difference. Being an accountant and not a scientist or marketer, I go with what's on special not what dinosaur droppings might be in the oil or what wankwords are written on the bottle. That said, if they were the same price I'd pick Penrite because… Australian (says driver of Belgium built Swedish car).

  • Sadly only VW 502/505. Why is VW 504/507 never on special!!!

    • Isnt the difference just lower zinc for emissions?

      Check what those specs mean, then decide if you actually WANT to meet them or not.

  • +1

    5W40 HPR 5 x 2 purchased. Thanks OP for posting

  • Ah good deal. Missed it. :(

    Looks like cheapest now is $42 at Repco https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/e…

  • My favourite lube!

Login or Join to leave a comment