• expired

Hortico Lawn Repair 1kg $6.94 (Was $11.25) @ Bunnings

1330

Hortico 1kg lawn repair has dropped in price, so now is a good time to stock up.

Says 1kg treats up to 60sqm.

The packets I bought have a 'sow by' date of September 2021 so plenty of time to plant later (autumn recommended in most places around Australia).

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  • +16

    Got to love Aldi for competition.

    • +17

      True, but ahh, sometimes I do long to once again experience those heady days of Master's, but alas, I fear never again….

      • +6

        So true…Bunnings is monopolizing the hell of hardware & garden market!We're pretty much at the mercy of Bunnings

        • +5

          I miss those air conditioned summer trips to Masters too

          • +1

            @Click_It: That's what probably killed their profit with air con electricity bill I guess lol

  • +2

    Can it also kill weed at the same time?

    • +7

      Nope but it will compete with the weeds

      • +4

        Hortico Bindi killer is really good, will target weeds and not kill your lawn. Best to use weed killers while they are actively growing, so now is a good time of the year.

        • Is there any option other than hose on?

        • +1

          I hose sprayed a popular "weed and feed" 2 weeks ago (waited for a few dry days) but yet to see any weeds die off. It rained 24+hours later which was of concern although instructions said needed 12 hours dry. Also said not to mow within a week so left it for 2 weeks now. I have a low to ground weed that has been killing off my grass. We fortunately don't have bindi to deal with though. I usually just use Zero for spot dandelion etc. weeds (hard clay soul makes weeding difficult as root often breaks off). Will this "weed and feed" work though? Cannot recall brand name but it was expensive and came recommended.

          • +1

            @JediJan: Chech the pack, most can require reapplication. I mix a summer grass specific and requires 3 applications a week apart. But the bindie is once and strong enough

            • @camshandez: Unfortunately I did not keep the carton. I think it was Yates Pro Buffalo Weed and Feed, or similar.

          • +2

            @JediJan: Rain within 24 hours would have washed it off. It normally requires reapplication.

          • +4

            @JediJan: I have heard mixed things about weed n feed. Better off using a broadleaf weed killer and using slow release fertiliser

            • +2

              @mlburnian: I use a concentrate and mix accordingly, however have quite a large yard. Kamba-M or something similar is a very good selective herbicide, just check the directions first.

          • +9

            @JediJan: Those weed and feeds are generally watered down for those that don't understand the concept. So more applications maybe required.
            24hrs would be more than enough time re rain

            You can refil them though.
            Use Bin-Die or equivalent (active Bromoxinyl 200/ MCPA 200)
            Will kill majority of weed variety.

            Say the weed and feed treats 250m2
            Bin-Die is from memory 6L/ha so 60ml/100m2.
            So add 150ml to empty weed and feed bottle and fill to top.
            Click on and spray away.
            As always test if your cautious/ or not.
            Add surfactant for extra stick if rain expected.
            Retreat stubborn areas

            Source. Commerical operator and sprayed everything you can think of.

            • @wpw: I looked for "weed and feed" as the owner suggested using that was what I should use. Neighbors gardens are full of weeds, especially dandelions, but at least they look green and do not seem to have the bare area I have now. Have kept up spraying dandelions etc with zero and the lawn looked great for years, but this low lying weed has smothered the buffalo and killed it off. I noticed it is appearing in other areas of the grass now too.

              Do you work in south-eastern Victoria?

            • +1

              @wpw: Thanks for the advice, bought the Bin-Die from Bunnings and will wait for the weather to cool down a bit before applying.

          • +3

            @JediJan: I used weed and feed from Bunnings, killed my lawn but not the weeds.

            • +3

              @nfr: lol. Did u pick the right bottle. Theres one that says NOT suitable for buffalo grass. And a different one FOR buffalo grass.

            • @nfr: Lawn is looking pretty lush, weeds aside. Apart from the area where the grass was killed off by weed.

            • +3

              @nfr: Are you sure you didn't buy "feed the weed"? Simple mistake.

          • +1

            @JediJan: Is the low to ground weed ricardia (Mexican clover)?
            If so buy the concentrated hortico selective weedkiller and make stronger mix and spray it directly on the weed.
            I am using this
            https://www.bunnings.com.au/hortico-500ml-selective-weed-kil…

            • @Boostland: Not absolutely certain it is the same weed, but very similar. It spreads out on the ground so you can use your fingers to gather a wide area, twist and pull the roots out. Seeding at the moment. Browns off in the hottest part of Summer. The buffalo grass that was there has died off completely.

              I am pretty certain I used Yates Buffalo Pro weed and Feed. Used the entire carton. I recall it did say it could take 3+ weeks to work, but would have thought some sign at 2 weeks.

              I will look into this Hortico variety of weed killer too; thanks. I did not keep the spray carton the weed and feed came in, so I guess I shall have to find a watering can or something.

              • +1

                @JediJan: Don't use Zero on your lawn. You can paint weeds with it but if you spray like those 1L pump bottles you will overspray onto the lawn. Weeds will always win in the race to fill dead patches.

                Buy yourself a 5lt sprayer. not the cheapy.

                Something like this will do but buy the best you can afford. It will last if you clean it afterwards, rinse and flush out when finished. Do not store your mixture in the sprayer if you made to much, just pour it into a labelled safe container and then rinse the sprayer out.

                Bin-Die contains the same active as the Hortico Selective but is cheaper so buy it.

                Calibrate your sprayer.
                Put a couple litre into sprayer and adjust until you have a nice spray/fan pattern
                Measure a 1m x 5m area on your driveway/patio or lawn , doesn't have to be perfect, just step it out.
                Now fill sprayer with 2L of water.
                Walking backwards spray your marked 1m x 5m area. Concrete will show you a better spray pattern just spraying to the point of wetting and no more.
                Now empty and measure the remaining water from the sprayer.
                Say you have 1.5L left means
                500ml / 5m
                1L / 10m
                10L /100m2
                So your 5L sprayer will do 50m2 and require 30ml Bin-die.
                Spray as you calibrated in your affected areas and retreat after 2 weeks.
                Fertize wthl granule fert often and you'll win.
                Bare patches can be remedied by buying strip at bunnies and cutting it up into smaller patches to spread it out. Just the size of a plate no smaller or it will dry out. keep wet until it takes off.
                Sounds like you have oxalis weed which is hard to wet so you may require a sticking agent
                I'm in QLD sorry

                • @wpw: I am very careful just to spray the odd weed leaf and never on a windy day. Takes about 3 weeks but the grass grows back pretty quickly here … usually. At that time I can see new dandelions popping up too! I tend to pick the new dandelion flowers off every day or so to prevent new weed, but the neighbours gardens are all full of them. I never used to spray before as we had guinea pigs, sprays too dangerous, and they just love them so we never had enough; real treat!

                  I just took photos of the weed (budding now) destroying the grass and compared it to the oxalis weed and richardia, but doesnt look like either really. Doesn't have the clover type leaf at all! Cannot recall if white or yellow flowers.

                  Unfortunately I don't know how to post a photo here. If anyone sends me an email address to [email protected] (or DM me here) I can send them some photos I took today though from that email address.

                • -1

                  @wpw: @BinDie
                  See message BELOW. If you send me an email address I can send photos of the weed I took today, from my spare email address:
                  [email protected]

            • -1

              @Boostland: See message ABOVE. If you send me an email address I can send photos of the weed I took today, from my spare email address:
              [email protected]

    • This is weed is a packet

  • +2

    $250 / $6.94 is a lot of lawn seeds.

  • If u use this on a buffalo lawn are you essentiallly mixing grasses? I am told you can't grow buffalo from seed. Is mixing an issue?

    • +6

      You do not want to mix other breeds of grass into your buffalo. Infection from neighbour's is bad enough to keep on top off.

      Yes there's no buffalo seeds unfortunately.
      You're best bet is to constantly remove weeds, fertilise every two months, water regularly in summer, dethatch in spring, and mow the lawn regularly.

      Buffalo is a PITA

      • I removed a 4.25m x 8.3m patch of buffalo and planning to grow seed. The surrounding 3 edges are still buffalo though. Will that be a problem?

        • +2

          dont mix mate…

        • +1

          Yes. If you like your buffalo, it will get infected over time. You can get buffalo squares from Bunnings for a decent price, I'd be doing that to fill in the patch if it was me

        • Thanks for the advice guys. That puts me in a little bit of a predicament then cos I kinda hate buffalo. So either I get rid of the rest of the lawn which would be a bitch of a job. Or returf that patch with grass I don't want :/

          • @CVonC: I had a massive patch on buffalo but decided not to seed other stuff. On the box it said that it would be temporary while buffalo eventually takes over so I thought there's not much point. I gave it some fertiliser 4 weeks ago and it is spreading pretty rapidly to close the patch so i'm glad i waited it out now. More money in my pocket too.

            But you could get buffalo patch and minimise the patch with that like others have suggested.

            • @muzzy1907: Am thinking maybe I can border off the edges with pavers or something so that the buffalo doesn't grow and take over? Actually come to think of it, I'm not 100% sure if the current grass is even buffalo. I just assumed it was cos it's the most common type of lawn grass? I've been looking at images of all the different grass types we have here and can't really discern what my grass is as it's in pretty bad nick (my 6 rabbits have ruined the lawn and I never really did proper maintenance on it).

              Edit: apparently Kikuyu will overtake Buffalo though

          • +2

            @CVonC: Oh if you don't want buffalo, then get some Kikuyu seeds in the patched area and let that spread.

            • @Herbse: Yeah I actually misunderstood the previous comments to mean that Buffalo would take over. It seems like the others will take over Buffalo instead which I guess is what I want. Just want a soft grass with low maintenance and high traffic. Preferably grown from seed as turf is so much more expensive. Kikuyu kinda scares me as I've read that it can creep up garden beds without maintenance? Are couch and zoysia any good? But zoysia is just from turf isn't it?

              • @CVonC: My understanding is that Kikuyu needs the least effort to maintain and deals with shade and drought better than most. Which is why it's one of the most commonly used breeds. It doesn't look amazing when you just leave it and does get riddled with weeds, but most people can do the bare minimum and it stays alive.
                Yes it does creepy with its runners, but that's the same with all grass types with runners.

          • @CVonC: Could try this buffalo doesn't like kamba .
            You may have to apply a half mixture rate but apply it every 3-4 days for about 3 times or more to see results.
            The reason for the lesser rate is so you don't knock your existing lawn to much.
            If you feel up to it you could do full strength every 2 weeks on one section and the other gets the lesser rate.
            Fertilise to get your existing lawn to flourish whilst smashing the buffalo..
            Make sure your other turf is compatible/ or just test spay
            Worth a try.

      • +2

        Try not to mix if you can. Buffalo grow by spreading as all seeds are male and sterile. If the hole is big enough better to buy a roll of sir Walter or sapphire buffalo. I heard recently there is a new type of buffalo that is 90% shade tolerant. Can’t remember the name

        • I have a shady spot I have watered and put down shade proof grasses but none took after initially sprouting. Was told none are shade proof, but still interested. (Neighbours trees)

      • +1

        Got any recommendations for non-buffalo shade tolerant grass? I need to buy some grass for my backyard soon starting from scratch, small area though and it only gets a few hours of solid sun in the morning

        • +1

          You might want to chat to your local turf provider, as in some parts of Oz you can get some really good variants /blends made for the local environment.

          They will also be able to recommend breeds that will like shade and suit your soil type.

      • I got some (sir Walter ) buffalo that more or less never grows. Need to mow once a year or so. Is it crap?

        • +6

          Are you sure you didn't lay down artificial grass? -_-

        • +1

          Hm. Generally buffalo only needs cutting twice in winter, but weekly in summer.

          Try some regular fertilising/weed and feed and water when the weather warms up. Should help pick things up

      • How does dethatching work without tearing out good grass?

        • I just go at it with a plastic rake. Get HEAPS of dead grass out. I figure if it tears any healthy grass it won't matter as Buffalo doesn't care. Looks a bit thin and scraggly now, but hoping growing season will sort out the gaps.

        • +1

          Dethatching buffalo and Kikuyu lawns means having to sacrifice the top layer of good grass so that you can scrape out the dead layer beneath it. As long as you don't cut too deep, where the runners are, the lawn grows back much healthier after a few weeks.

          • @Herbse: @Herbse: Damn, should have done that before top dressing this year

  • Consider their homebrand is around that price too

  • Would this be any good if you're starting from scratch (no lawn at all)?

    • Want to know this as well. Can anybody answer please?

    • +4

      Nope, if your on a budget buy rolls, cut them up and spread them out. Will cover faster and much better compared to the rate of germination from this lawn seed mixture.

    • +1

      The other option for large areas is bags of shredded lawn.

    • +4

      Buy rolls mate. Works out better and faster. Just have to make sure you water plenty for the first month. If you get a new lawn you can apply to Sydney water for a water use exemption. Water 2-3 times a day for the first 2-3 weeks. Then once a day for another 2 weeks. Then 3 times a week but deep watering

      • +3

        Install drip irrigation first.
        It's easier and cheaper in the long run.

    • +2

      Yes, but you need to do a bit of prep work and lots of after seed care. I've done it before on a medium size lawn patch.

      • Dig up all the weeds
      • Remove a decent amount of old soil depending on how deep the current grass and weeds have grown in
      • Fill in with dirt and then top soil
      • Level it all
      • Seed (with seeding fertiliser)
      • Water regularly as recommended
      • Now is a good time as there is a little bit of rain and also some good sun. But any later and you'll have to stand out in the morning every day watering while in its infancy
      • Yell at the kids every time they walk on it, until it's strong enough.
      • Remove every trace of weeds constantly while the lawn is taking form and filling in the gaps. Weeds are the enemy.
      • Once lawn has taken, regular fertilising, watering and mowing will keep the weeds out.

      To do it correctly, you will need to be maintaining it almost daily for the first 6 months

    • +1

      "Blend" includes grass i consider as weeds

    • Does work. Had to grow a large area around my patio in a rental was completely dead. Had grass mind you it’s different grass to what was in the rest of my yard, in a few weeks. Certainly looked decent after it was mowed.

  • +3

    Dont buy lawn seed, especially from bunnings.. its primarily rye seed and not likely going to be a huge percentage of couch/wintergreen.

    If you guys need to repair bare patches, better off planting runners or buying a couple rolls and cutting them up into small pieces.

    • Agreed. Roll is the best bet.

      • The only decent grass you can get going from seed is Kikuyu… It takes a long time to germinate though so it requires care/attention.

        This stuff is rye, rubbish, a waste of time.

        • Yeh better off buying bags of shredded kik

        • +1

          Not sure in terms of what you mean by long time. We seeded kikuyu about a month ago and it’s now 10 cm. Though I need reseeding in some isolated patches. Don’t know how to add an image here

        • That's really not true. There are plenty of types of decent grass you can grow from seed, depending on your climate.
          I've got RTF fescue, it looks and feels a million times better than Kikuyu or Buffalo.

          • @DeepPocketsShortArms: Fescue is great till a hot, dry summer. I loved my fescue. Then we had drought and 40+ degree days and it died off very patchy. Never grows back.

            • @bmerigan: I'm in the Southern highlands in nsw. It's great for this area. It stays green in winter where buffalo and kikuyu go a horrible brown colour.
              We had a couple of 40 degree days which my lawn coped well with. It is on irrigation, I wouldn't consider it without it.

  • +13

    If you hop on gumtree from about 3pm on Saturday and Sunday you can usually get a few rolls of lawn for free after people have done large grass lays. I've done this a couple of times.

  • Will buffalo overtake half/mostly dead couch? God I hate it.

  • +1

    Is this stuff same as green up? Moved into house and grass was pretty green over time it's loosing its green and getting patchy in places, I did weed and feed weeks back and that did nothing ended up taking them out by hand. I was told green up is good which I have yet to try but does green up fix patchy areas?

    • +1

      Probably better off to try some ‘Scott’s Lawn Builder + Organic’

  • I would appreciate any advice to repair the lawn in WA inexpensively (dessert type WA sand - does not hold water )

    https://imgur.com/gallery/mXfEAi7

    Rented house, strata is responsible for cutting the lawn and I am responsible to watering and keeping the lawn alive :)

    • +2

      Join the WA Lawn Addicts FB page and search/ask for advise there, plenty of helpful sources on that page.

      As a starting point, soil wetter and fertaliser like Baileys 3.1.1 followed by some seasol. Also checking to ensure you put down 10mm of water on your scheduled watering days. A top dress with a good lawn mix will also work wonders :)

      Edit: just seen your pics, looks like you may need to do some weed treatment prior to the steps above.

    • +3

      Follow what i've just wriiten above.
      Spray out the lawn. Be prepared for a shock going by the pics.
      Use an Orgainic fert and often, don't throw it on thick just make regular monthly application over the coming months then when she s looking good apply 3to4 times /year.
      Water is best applied for 30min deeply saturation once a week rather than these 5min daily sessions people do. It drives the roots down.

      No point going any further as your renting but if you felt inclined think about topdressing when the lawn comes good.

      • +1

        Thank you everyone for your time and feedback

  • +1

    I really need this mate. Thumbs up!!

  • +5

    Don't be fooled by the lawn snobbery.
    I have used a couple of different lawn seeds from bunnings and they do work. You just have to be vigilant with constant watering to make sure the seeds don't dry out. One round of oversowing is unlikely to repair every single inch of patchy areas but it certainly has improved my lawn and I'm currently repeating it in areas where the germination wasn't as successful.

    • +1

      I agree with you regarding the snobbery. It seems many people are against seed and only want buffalo or kikuyu turf.

      • +1

        I am not against seed but only want buffalo of kikuyu as they appear to be hardier and don't require as much attention … apart from the weeds. My father was fastidious about his lawns but that came at a price of regular watering, which is kind of frowned upon today with water restrictions etc. Father's beautiful lawns were totally killed off a few times by the burning Sun, so finally gave in to what survived best.

        • +1

          Buffalo will hold up to the summer better than Kikuyu, but kikuyu will stay greener through winter. You can typically also get kikuyu greener than buffalo which fertilizing but it's also thirstier than buffalo. Can't go past buffalo IMO. But if starting from the beginning, running drip irigation beneath the soil is the smart way to go the era of water restrictions, better in the long run to encourage deeper root growth and thus more drought resistance

  • Because of this post I dropped by two bunnings couldn't find any left.

  • It expires tomorrow (6 Nov).

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