Did My Audi Dealer Mess up My Car Registration?

So i had purchased a brand new 2019 Audi A3 35 TFSI MY19 back in February this year, all is good with the car until i realise when i compare motor insurance quotes using my registration number i get a different year (2018) and make year (MY18). This may be an issue for one, my insurance claims could be rejected as the car details are not the same and two when i sell my car and transfer registration. The buyer will see that it is labelled as a 2018 model instead of a 2019 model.

Upon calling my dealer, the sales person told me that the build date was Nov 2018 and the Model year or compliance date is MY19, and that is how they always register their cars. Though the registration says its a 2018 MY18 but the contract says 2019 Audi A3 35 TFSI MY19. I've done some research and i found that the 2019 definitely has 35 TFSI embossed on the back of my car which ensures i've gotten a 2019 car. If it was a 2018 model, it would have TFSI only embossed on the back.

So my question is, did my dealer screw up in the registration bit or is he correct?

Thanks for the help.

thanks to tshow for the summary.

Contract states 2019 Audi A3 MY19.
Registration says 2018 Audi A3 MY18
Car decals suggest MY19
Build date is Nov 2018

Is there a registration error?

Comments

  • Look at the build plate. It will have the build date. Tell us what it says.

    • Built: Nov18

      • +23

        Then you have a 2018 car.

        • +8

          Not necessarily. Pretty sure Nov 18 build can still be MY19. Spackbace can probably confirm.

          • +4

            @Hybroid: It can but it will still be a 2018 car.

            • @[Deactivated]: Really simple …your child is manufactured Nov 2018 is born 9 months later, do you take manufacture date or birth date?

              • +2

                @MMM: My child doesn't have a resale value.

                I take whatever is the year I have to legally advertise.

                • +2

                  @[Deactivated]: You said "My child doesn't have a resale value." unfortunately OP's Audi wont either:) I have an Audi Q3 ATM, so speaking from experience. Never buy euro if you want resale value, buy a Toyota! however if you want to enjoy the ride then buy Audi.

          • +10

            @Hybroid: I disregard MY completely, we don't sell from that. We keep it simple in terms of spec number, and build and compliance date. Every manufacturer likely has its own system.

            And in WA we sell off compliance, not build date. If it's a 2018 build/2019 complied, it gets advertised and sold as a 2019 plate.

            The best deals for new car buyers are generally those, say a 2019 build/2020 complied, as the manufacturer targets bonus money purely on build dates (I believe the Eastern States sell of build dates)

            • @spackbace: I believe NSW also sell based off Compliance Date.

            • +6

              @spackbace: "And in WA we sell off compliance, not build date. If it's a 2018 build/2019 complied, it gets advertised and sold as a 2019 plate."

              And when we come to trade it in, stealers will tell us it's a 2018, because that's the build date……

              If a house is built in 1980 but not occupied until 1981, the house was built in 1980. Similarly with anything, including cars (despite all the games that stealerships like to play). It's the age it is, based from the date is was built, not when someone put a plate on it. Think about that for a second please.

              I bought a 2007 Jeep in 2009. I was the first owner. It had never been registered before me. Not a demo. Complianced in 09. Just been sitting on a boat / compound for 2 years. When we bought it, the stealer tried to price it as a 2009 car. Eventually priced it correctly and sure enough, when we traded it in, it was valued as a 2007…. Can't have it both ways (despite stealers doing their best)

              • +20

                @oscargamer: Shrug

                You have your views, I have mine. You have yours based from 1 example, I have mine based off countless examples. I value cars every day, 6 days a week, but that's ok you have 1 example. Most examples see build and compliance plates within a month or so from each other. The only ones where that doesn't happen are with vehicles build in the US, and take time to come over, or vehicles that aren't desirable, like your Jeep and various Euro cars.

                So you bought a 2yo Jeep, which had been sitting in the open-air at the wharf for 2 years, and then traded it in…? I'm losing track at how many bad decisions you just made in 1 go with 1 vehicle lol

                  • +17

                    @oscargamer: Yep, with much more experience than 1 situation, so thanks for pointing that out :)

                    • +4

                      @spackbace: It's hard though… I don't really know who to believe… A guy that sells cars for a living… Or a guy that bought an old stock Jeep 10 years ago?

                      when we traded it in, it was valued as a 2007

                      Um, that's because it was an 07MY vehicle. The "VIN" tells you what "MY" the car is, not the compliance or build plates…

                      • +12

                        @pegaxs: You are missing the point. My point was the double standards.

                        When we bought it, the sales thing attempted to price it as a 2009, because that's when it was complianced. Which is what spack says he bases his sales pitch on. This car was clearly 2 years old, because of the build date.

                        But when we traded it, it was valued at the build date…..

                        clear now ?

                        • @oscargamer: Because in 2009, the car was still new. It wasn't used, it was just old stock.

                          When you traded it, it was treated like a 07MY, because it was, (possibly according to the VIN,) an 07MY.

                          Here is where your story all falls apart. As an example, I looked up the prices for a Jeep Cherokee Limited, 3.7 petrol Auto 4x4 in both the 2007 and 2009 variants (as an example, because I don't know what pile of crap you actually bought.)

                          2007: $44,990 RRP

                          2009: $40,990 RRP.

                          So… If a dealer were selling a '07MY Cherokee at '09MY RRP, the dealer was already giving a $4,000 discount.

                          Or, maybe it was a Patriot. Found this little nugget on Redbook… "2009 Jeep Patriot Limited Auto 4x4 MY07"

                          The difference in price from 07 to 09…

                          2007: $35,990

                          2009 (07MY): $36,490

                          A price rise of… *drum roll*… $500! (Ironically, the exact same price as the 09MY and the 10MY) A price rise of about 1.5%

                          Clear now?

                    • +8

                      @spackbace: The fact that a system exists, does not make it right.

                      The current system was set up by dealers to extract the most amount of money out of buyers, in the nastiest most underhanded way, by people with few if any ethics or morals.

                      All IMO.

                      • +1

                        @oscargamer: Don't trade. Why would you, if you really wanted the most money for your car? Why even consider it? Why buy a 2yo car that's been sitting on the wharf for 2 years?

                        I've bought and sold cars privately, my profession doesn't change that, and I still wouldn't do what you did because I know how to save money on the process.

                        • +5

                          @spackbace: Why do you keep commenting on my choice to trade a car?

                          My comments in this thread are that stealerships use one identifier to price a new car and a different identifier to price a trade in. Each one benefits the stealer. I don't like double standards and I don't like the people that support them.

                          As it turned out for me, the price we paid for the Jeep was very good and the changeover price years later was also very good. Plus it suited the fact of our remote location and the sale of it included the new car being delivered to our doorstep and the old one taken away.

                          • +4

                            @oscargamer: Because you call them stealerships, due to how they run their business, yet you happily take advantage of these practices when there's other, better options available to you.

                            The morals and double standards aren't just in the dealerships court here, you're also very much partaking in saying 1 thing but doing another.

                            • +7

                              @spackbace: I actually don't understand that comment.

                              If I want to buy a new car, where else do I go, apart from a stealership?

                      • @oscargamer: Don't think most salespeople in general have ethics or morals.

                        We were sold a new car and told the logbook servicing was once a year at 2 different dealerships. Bought the car and then realised it was required twice a year when we opened the logbook.

                        Called back to to check if they gave the correct logbook and apparently yes it was the correct one. Servicing is required twice a year as per the logbook. Scammed. But couldn't do much as it was all verbal communication.

                        So moral of the story is. Don't trust anyone especially a salesperson.

                        Besides all that I think there is a problem that Oscar has highlighted. There are double standards in the system and it's not ok. Who knoes who and when and if it'll ever get fixed.

                  • +1

                    @oscargamer: He sells cars. It's only perceived as stealing from the purchases pov when the buyer does not know how to negotiate. Negotiation is a learned skill. So is researching what you are buying. So is paying attention to detail.

                    Many skills similar to the above, when combined, lead to success.

              • @oscargamer: It could be worse. About 15 years ago it was popular to import small capacity motorcycles from Japan and sell them to learners here. Because of the quirks of compliance, the bike only 'came into existence' when it was complied in Australia. Because of this, there were a lot of bikes from built between 1988 and 1994 being sold as ~2005 models - because that was the date on the compliance plate.

                The CBR250R, CBR250RR, ZXR250, FZR250, etc were the most popular for this.

            • @spackbace: This. Recently bought a Skoda Superb MY19 with a build date of Oct 18 date and a April 2019 compliance. Mine is definitely a MY19 as that is the only model which has the virtual cockpit/dashboard.

              Reason for the delay was because there was a shipping issue with bugs on the cargo ships which prevented cars from being offloaded for almost 3 months at the end of last year. There are sometimes legitimate reasons for the difference in build and compliance dates.

              • @Piranha2004: Can I ask what year your car was registered ? Like when you do insurance quotes does it have 2018 or 2019?

            • +2

              @spackbace: What if the vehicle built in 2018 was pre-facelift and the vehicle built in 2019 was facelifted?

              As a buyer, the compliance date doesn't mean shit. You can import a 20 year old vehicle and still have a 2019 compliance date - it doesn't make it a 2019 model.

              • @Harold Halfprice: I'll repeat:

                We keep it simple in terms of spec number, and build and compliance date.

                Though I don't think I've ever seen a spec change perfectly happen over the new year

                You can see how the brands distinguish it differently here:
                Toyota
                Audi

                Note that the Toyota naming doesn't change, whereas the Audi has an MY. Toyota just change spec number, which we inform the customer about and is also reflected on the contract.

                As a buyer, the compliance date doesn't mean shit.

                That's nice, it still doesn't change the fact that WA sells off Compliance Date

                • @spackbace: Insurance and rego is based on build date, so is the resale value come trade in time.

                  A 2018 build vehcile is a 2018… MY doesn't mean shit.

        • +1

          I am in automotive industry….Industry standard is "anything manufactured past 6th month is called next year model".

        • Build date is different to MY

      • +3

        My car is a 2017 model and the 2017 model was from august 2016.

        MY is what matters for the “model”
        For example the MY20 model of my car launches in November this year.

        Build date is when it was built
        MY is the year for insurance etc.

        • -1

          MY is not the year for insurance. You can have a 2018 MY19, doesn’t make it a 2019 car. For example, my new car is a 2019 MY19.75, obviously there is no such year as 19.75.

          Pricing up a car recently, there were a handful of new 2018 MY19 stock knocking about across the country, no way you’d be paying the same as you would a 2019 MY19.

  • If it was a 2018 model, it would have 1.4L embossed on the back instead.

    Your research has left you with the confuffle between MY and build year.

    Build years do not have changes to the car. Model year does.

    • Actually i have a little mistake there. The 2018 model should have just TFSI embossed on the back not 1.4L. The 2019 model has 35 TFSI on the back which mine does have.

      • +8

        Sounds like you have a 2019 Model car, and it was built in 2018… perfectly normal.
        Now, what you see on the registration depends between your state and the dealership. I mean, having it say "2018" may be inline with the rules of your state. It's probably best to call a dealership and ask directly, find out if they go off the "build date" or "year model".

        If you think this only applies to cars, I'll remind you that the latest 2020 Fifa game has hit shelves and we're still like 4 months out.

        • +6

          I'm gonna start a new car company called 2022, our first model will be the 2023, which despite being built in 2019 will be badged as MY2020.

          Anyone keen to buy a 2019 2022 2023 MY2020 ?

          • +2

            @abb: Well, (fropanity) me, colour me sold. I would buy this car in a heartbeat, just so I would have to explain it every time I talked about it.

            "No no, it's the 2020 2023, but it's the 2021MY 2023 by 2022. What don't you understand about that??"

  • +10

    Original post reads like… not good like.

    Here's a summary to make better the not so good:

    Contract states 2019 Audi A3 MY19.
    Registration says 2018 Audi A3 MY18
    Car decals suggest MY19
    Build date is Nov 2018

    Is there a registration error or delivery error?

    • +3

      Yes, thats so much better. Thanks haha

      • +3

        Not all heroes wear capes.

        …but this one does.

      • And the Compliance Plate date says?

        • https://imgur.com/a/hJR17Mk

          I hope this helps (VIN sticker)

          • @sequence21: Nope, that's a build plate. The car also has a compliance date

            • @spackbace: I couldnt find the compliance plate but I did find the compliance date to be 03/19 on a new vehicle check in sheet that was stuck together in my owners manual

              • @sequence21: You said you bought it in February. Did you take delivery in March? 3/9 compliance is weird otherwise.

  • -1

    It doesn’t really mattered if you like the car and are keeping it for at least 5years.

    The important bits are the compliance plates on the car.

    • +1

      least 5years.

      Until you realise what a POS Audi is and sell it before the warranty ends. lol

    • +20

      The sales guys will say the compliance plates is what matters when buying a new car.

      When you trade in the same car 3 years later, the same sales guy will say it's the build date that is used to determine trade in value! lol

  • I thought MY stood for manufacture year?

    • +11

      Model Year

  • Out of curiosity, what is the 10th digit in the VIN, as this usually denotes what MY the vehicle is. It could be either a J or a K?

    (ps: only the last 6 digits on your VIN are the serial number, the 11 before that are the vehicle manufacturer and vehicle options)

    And for the record, a vehicle can be “MY19” but be “18 built”. Build date, compliance date and model year can all be different.

    • The 10th digit is a K

      • +2

        K denotes MY19. So the vehicle for all the purposes of options fitted and for spare parts is a MY19 vehicle.

        The "build date" is 2018. All that means is the vehicle was shipped over here some time between Sept~Nov and sold shortly after. The compliance plate (and possibly the build plate) where all put on in Australia when the vehicle was allocated to a dealer.

        Registration and insurance often go off the build/compliance date. The spare parts department go off the VIN. And if you have the changes noted as being on the MY19 vehicle, then be happy knowing your vehicle is a MY19 spec vehicle. So, enjoy your car.

        • +1

          The Build Date is November. It's not put on a boat til after this date.
          Compliance plate is affixed once it's in the country (say January)
          They are two separate items and should not be referred to as interchangeable.

          • +1

            @nafe: Hence my quote;

            (and possibly the build plate)

            Sometimes, cars are shipped incomplete and the final part of the build process is completed once in Australia. Quite often, there are options that are fitted in Australia at the request of the manufacturer. After these options are fitted, then the build plate and compliance plate goes on. These typically go on when the vehicle is allocated to a dealer.

            So, a vehicle can arrive in Australia without a build plate and without a compliance plate. It can then sit around at the docks or in a holding facility for months and sometimes years before the car is purchased, allocated to a dealer, options are installed and these plates are put on.

            Source: I once worked for a car/truck holding facility and it was my job to stamp and install build plates and compliance plates. Audi just happened to be one of our main customers at the time. But as always, the caveat on that is, processes may have changed and individual manufactures may have implemented other procedures since last time I affixed a build/compliance plate.

            • -4

              @pegaxs: Build plates are affixed at time of build in the plant. I'm not aware of any manufacturers who put build plates on cars AFTER they arrive in the country anymore. How long ago were you working in the holding facility?

              You're confusing things by saying build/compliance plate. The two are not interchangeable and are completely different.

              • @nafe:

                The two are not interchangeable

                At no stage did I say they are interchangeable.

                and are completely different.

                At no time did I say that they are the same.

                I also said it "can arrive without build plate", not "does arrive without". I also said "sometimes, cars are shipped incomplete"

                I'm not aware of any manufacturers who put build plates on cars AFTER they arrive in the country

                Then you don't or have not work in the vehicle holding/shipping industry. But if you do, I am happy to update my industry knowledge.

                How long ago were you working in the holding facility?

                It was a few years ago. But I have already stated above that procedures may have changed.

                • @pegaxs: You kept writing "build/compliance plate" - which to me infers they are the same. That's what I was referring to.

                  I was asking how long ago you worked in the holding yards as I knew they used to sometimes come without build plates, but only when substantial changes were made or added to the cars, but in more recent times the cars are pretty much built to spec and no major changes needed. I wasn't doubting your experience.

                  • @nafe: There are top ten manufacturer's who still finalise localisation in country. 20k to 50k+ cars every year for some manufacturers. Some at the docks. Some at dealerships. As far as I know, build plates for most of their models refer to the month they left the main factory, overseas.

                    An easy way to confirm localisation is to compare radio features between countries (SiriusXM for example).

                    Major localisation (like right hand drive conversions) often have build dates marking the conversion, not original construction. However, some countries require VIN's and stamped particulars for export, so it can be messy, and there are often two build plates on a heavily modified vehicle.

                    I have little experience with trucks, but to my knowledge pegaxs is right. The more expensive the truck, the more variation in what milestone the build date refers to.

    • So should they have registered it as a 2018 or 2019 car? In my opinion it should be registered as a 2019 car. I would have issues explaining to a future buyer when I transfer registrations and all that if it was registered as 2018.

      • +4

        It's a 2019MY vehicle, built 2018. It does not make it a 2018 vehicle because the VIN says it isnt.

        It gets registered from what its build date is, but that does not change the model year. If you go to sell it, you can advertise that it is a 19MY vehicle, because the VIN says it is and it has the features of the 19MY. Build date =/= model year.

        Confusion over VIN/MY/build date all comes about from the "Veruca Salt" effect. The "I want it NOW!" people have with wanting the latest thing.

        The only questions you need concern yourself with is, do you like the car? Are you going to own it for a number of years? If yes and yes, nothing else matters. If you are that concerned with it, call and speak to your insurance company and your states registration body and voice your concerns to them and they will happily clarify it for you.

  • -3

    aaaaah Audi!

  • MY and build date are two different things. When it comes to trade in time any dealer will be calling it a 2018, not a 2019.

    • +15

      The same dealer will then turn around and advertise it their used car lot as an MY19.. :)

      • +1

        And therein lies the great scam

  • Ah everyone refers to when OP trades it in, as if the average private buyer wouldn't see the build plate and go "oh, it's a 2018 model" and bargain you down.

    Would anyone in here really honestly say they wouldn't do that, and try to buy it for a 2018 price?

    • Yes. Especially when at sale time the overall condition and kms will make more difference to the price than the build year - unless there is a significant difference in model specs between the two years.

      • You wouldn't haggle, based on the previous years build plate to further your argument?

        Do you normally just buy things at asking price? ;)

        • +2

          Of course you haggle, but the year doesn’t really make much difference. If a car is priced at $10k the seller is unlikely to drop further than their lowest say$8500, just becuase the build plate is one year less than the compliance or MY.

          • @Euphemistic: That's their price however, it doesn't make it the price you're prepared to pay.

            If you found out it was a 2018, when you thought it was a 2019, would you not then check current sale prices of 2018 plated vehicles and decide it's worth what the seller is asking?

            • +2

              @spackbace: What model year is it? Does it have the specs I want? That’s first priority. Second is condition, third is kms.

              Once a car is over about 6-7years IMO the build date is much less of a factor that the other stuff. Maybe I’d try and haggle down some more becuase the build date is older, but I don’t believe that it makes that much difference. It might make a bit of difference in newer cars.

              If I’m selling a car, the buyer isn’t going to get and extra discount just because there are a couple of numbers on the build plate. Hey are only going to get to my lowest price and no further.

              • @Euphemistic: But I'm not talking from the seller's perspective, I'm talking about the buyer. The dealership is a buyer at the end of the day, and obvious business practice is to buy as low as possible, same as anyone looking to buy from a private buyer. It's all about the haggle.

                Yes, you referred to an under $10k car, but some people sell/trade vehicles when they're still worth over $50k. In this case, everything matters, and age would affect anyone's buying decision when they're looking around at that price point. The difference in a year, at that price point, with all things being equal, can be a difference in thousands.

                The dealer might be prepared to look past the build date at a certain point, but they also know that prospective buyers will look at it when they come to buy it, and might try to negotiate as a result.

                So this 1 vehicle that has the previous years build, might have many buy/sell cycles through it's life, and at every stage could have someone reassessing the value based on the build date, both private and dealer. Yes, when it hits a certain age/price, it has very little effect, but early on and on more expensive cars it has a major effect.

                What I'm getting as is both private and dealer buyers will look at both build and compliance, and base their value from there. Whether that matches what the seller is prepared to take is a different story.

        • OP bought in February. Audi Australia should have reduced their prices for a month or two to clear 18 built units like most other manufacturers do (you did work for Holden, didn't you :p).

  • +1

    Dealers sell on CP not build dates. I've seen on Infinity and Alfa cars CP dates 2 years after the build date. 1 year is common for Q4 cars

    • +6

      That's because it takes Infiniti 2 years to sell a car.

      • Pretty much, shame they are nice cars, just not what they're asking for them.

        • In that case I'd bargain as if the car is 2 yrs old with very low kms and would not pay at new prices.

    • +1

      That is only for slow moving brands.

      There is no reason to bring up compliance date in the sales process. It is not a step in the sales process for half of the top 15 brands.

      Build dates can be easily explained by a competent sales person (in OP's case it is almost impossible to source a current year build car in February due to shipping and holidays, and any dealer trying to keep their doors open would charge a premium for a current year built car delivered in February).

  • If the badge on back of car means it's a my19 then it must be a my19.
    Unless it's a different decade like 2009 vs 2010 plates it's going to neglible the difference in valuation in 5 years

  • Sorry, mate. There's no "registration error", but they willfully stiffed you. I'd go back to the dealer and ask for a 2019 car as that's what the contract states, or if I were happy with the car (LOL - an overpriced volkswagen), then would ask for a reasonable sum of money to be paid back to me.

    Depending on what kind of a person you are, you might even consider legal option. Communicate with this stealership in writing to see what they have to say about the breach of contract. You could use this written correspondence in a court of law if needed.

    • He did buy an Audi after all.

    • To be fair, the Audi does have a nicer interior and the difference in price is sort of in line with the improvements.

    • +1

      But he got a 2019 model car. Complianced in 2019. What did the contract say? Did it specify it had to be built in 2019? The buyer was happy with the model, got the right specs etc. it appears there is an error in the rego to specify MY18. The dealer is unlikely to give any money back as the buyer has accepted the vehicle.

      unless the contract specifies it must be built in 2019, it just MY19 then the case is not black and white.

      • -1

        What did the contract say?

        unless the contract specifies it must be built in 2019, it just MY19 then the case is not black and white.

        You're correct in that all of this boils down to what's on the contract.

        The buyer was happy with the model, got the right specs etc.

        The buyer is certainly not happy, given that they've created this thread asking what could be done.

        • The buyer is happy with the actual car, got what they wanted. What they are not happy with is the paperwork.

          • -1

            @Euphemistic: Sorry, you are correct. I must have read the post properly. :-)

  • +2

    Yes I made the same mistake. Bought a car in 2009 and was told it's a 2009 car, but found that build date was actually 2008 and it was complied in 2009. When it came to advertise for resale, had to advertise it one year earlier, losing some value in the process due to people bargaining off from redbook value.

    Why is it that at the beginning of each year, there is a sales pitch for lower prices for cars plated one year earlier? Surely you don't expect a car bought in 2019 complied in Jan 2019 and with a build date Oct 2018 to have the same value as a car complied in March 2019 and build date Jan 2019?

    Always ask what is the build date on a car and value it that way.

    • That's why most manufacturers have a major sales event early in the year. But not in January, as there is usually a slight increase as people are buying due to convenience (less commitments and or holidays). Dealers giving discounts in January are usually desperate for business and will usually have a new sales team before your complimentary service.

  • Legit question: is the MY based on the financial year? I only ask because the MY20 models start coming in around this time of the year and they clear out the previous year's stock.

    • Nope

    • Nothing to do with financial year.

  • My motorbike is the same,
    It is a 2013 Triumph Street Triple R
    Rego - MY12 Triumph Street Triple R
    Build Date - 12/12
    Bill of sale - MY13

    It is definitely 2013 model is it is the first year of the new design, with the last being 2012.
    Has it caused any issues? None other than my going huh I thought it was a 2013 model.

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