Another Car Question

RonT on 22/09/2019 - 13:18

Hi,

Just another car question for the community out there as this is a bit tricky situation (at least for me).

I need a reliable small car for at least another 12 months (lets say all of 2020) due to my work commitments. I will be driving for about 75k per day for at least 25 days a month. However, after the next 12 months, I will be overseas for a year (lets say all of 2021), so I wont be needing the car. When I come back (lets say in 2022), I will be needing the car again.

So the questions are,

  1. Apart from selling the car after 12 months (and buy again later), are there other options people know for this situation, so that I dont have to buy a car again in 2022?
  2. If selling is the only meaningful option left, can you suggest a hatchback that doesnt depreciate THAT much in 12 months? (I know they all do, but looking for best of the worst)

Thanks in advance.
RonT

Automotive Car

Comments

  • RockyRaccoon on 22/09/2019 - 13:29
    +5

    When asking for help. why not put in the details that will define your position.

    eg
    Amount you expect to pay (ball park)
    Are you looking at New or Used?
    If not using it for 12 months where are you planning on storing the car?

    • RonT on 22/09/2019 - 13:44

      Thanks.

      You see the purchase will depend on the plan. If i find a way of keeping the car for 12 months with no problems, then I will buy a brand new at about 35k. If i have to sell it, then I would be buying a used one at 10-12k max.

      Hope that clears.

      • oscargamer on 22/09/2019 - 15:07
        +18

        That is such the wrong way of thinking !

        The newer the car, the more the depreciation.

        You should buy a car that's 3 years old. It should be about 50% cost of new. Most cars of this age will still be in warranty (if serviced correctly).

        • RonT on 22/09/2019 - 15:12

          Thanks for the tip on used car. Will certainly keep in mind.

          If I buy a new car, then I intend to keep it long term. So I am not considering depreciation there. The only issue with that option is how could I ensure the car remains drivable after 12 months of not being used. I am not aware of any means.

          • oscargamer on 22/09/2019 - 16:09
            +3

            @RonT: Easy as.

            Rent a garage, run it almost empty of fuel, put it up on blocks, remove or disconnect battery……

            On return, charge and reconnect battery, put in 5L of new fuel before starting, remove blocks, drive to your mechanic via servo and fill with fuel and get mech to do a minor/interim service.

            • payless69 on 23/09/2019 - 08:04
              +3

              @oscargamer: why remove blocks?

              • oscargamer on 23/09/2019 - 08:55
                +4

                @payless69: Not sure. I read that somewhere.

              • trongy on 23/09/2019 - 19:48
                +1

                @payless69: Putting a car on blocks means jacknig it up and supporting its weight by the body, not the tyres. This is to avoid tyres getting a flat spot in long term storage (especially as the tyres lose pressure). Obviously you can't drive it if the wheels don't touch the ground.

                • payless69 on 24/09/2019 - 11:22

                  @trongy: left a Toyota van with Wanli tyres on pavers for 18 months. Just a pump up, no worries. Concrete needs at least a vinyl slip. Bear in mind that tyres over 5 years from manufacture are no longer allowed to be placed on rims.

            • stumo on 23/09/2019 - 09:52

              @oscargamer: Do the service before storing. You dont want that used (acid filled) oil sitting in there for year.

              • nomoneynoproblems on 23/09/2019 - 12:12
                +2

                @stumo: Lol 12 months is nothing. Leave it on trickle charge and be done with it.

                • gimme on 24/09/2019 - 05:13

                  @nomoneynoproblems: This, as always ozb overcomplicating

                  • Bargain80 on 24/09/2019 - 09:09

                    @gimme: But I agree with the fuel. Don't use fuel that has been sitting in the tank for 12 months. At least that's what I heard.

              • [Deactivated] on 24/09/2019 - 15:32
                +1

                @stumo: What acid? Sounds bad. Do you mean carbon from rings blowthrough, and some moisture?

                • stumo on 24/09/2019 - 17:07

                  @[Deactivated]: Part of an oils job is to absorb acids which are formed in combustion gasses. TBN is the capacity of oil to absorb acid. Thats the main reason why oils have a time based service interval as well as mileage.

                  You fools are saying OP can drive on his oil for a full year, then leave it in the engine for a further year. Then change it. Thats double the OCI of most cars.

                  Acids are what the oil precipitates out as sludge. Leaving the used oil in there is a great way of generating unnecessary sludge in the engine.

                  Im curious as to why you would change the oil immediately after storage, rather than before. If I can hear any valid reason would be great. Ive given a valid reason why you should do it prior to storage. And its not just me, look at any decent advice on storing a car and it will say the same.

                  • [Deactivated] on 24/09/2019 - 17:38

                    @stumo: I think you are caught up (no offense intended) in the profit-making oil and auto industries hype. In reality service schedules, boutique oils etc are set more for profit than practicality.

                    At least a couple of independent tests have shown no significant difference in long-term wear or engine service life, regarding far less maintenance or quality of products pushed on consumers.

                    Beyond pointing that out, I'd suggest people be practical about homes, food and vehicles if they want to live long and prosper. And think things through thoroughly away from peer and industry pressure.

                    I spend very little on cars, most families spend over $10k p/y average, ex running costs.

                    • stumo on 24/09/2019 - 18:08

                      @[Deactivated]: thats fine, but they are changing the oil either way. So why do it after and not before?

                      AKA why go against every. single. car. storage. advice. link. on. google. which says to change the oil if storing more than a few months?
                      https://lmgtfy.com/?q=storing+a+car

                      • [Deactivated] on 24/09/2019 - 19:41

                        @stumo: Honestly it might be due to old belief that air moisture gets in through engine vents. Thus after a year or two of seasons and daily weather fluctuations, oil should be changed.
                        Diesels have to have a long run to get rid of engine sump moisture but that may be due to water in the fuel supply, I don't know.

                        Anyway, I did car restoration for about 12 years, decades ago. Acids were never mentioned, only moisture, carbon and metal filings, from memory. Maybe only modern crap oil formulas are creating the acid problem, not old fashioned mineral oil.

                        Man just makes up endless stories, I've learned to ignore most of it and stick with core truth.

                        Hope that improves your day, not confuses you or something. Cheers.

                        • stumo on 24/09/2019 - 20:34

                          @[Deactivated]: Just because you haven't heard about it, doesn't mean it doesn't exist or isn't a "core truth" lol.

                          From wikipedia (or any other site talking about oils)…

                          Bases may be used to combat chemical decomposition of the base stock oil in the presence of acids. When oil is subjected to shear wear and oxidation by air and combustion gases, it will have a tendency to collect acids and increase its Total Acid Number (TAN).

                          Alkaline additives are used to neutralize the acids mentioned previously, and also help prevent the formation of sulfates in a working oil. A formulated oil will often have KOH (potassium hydroxide), a strong base, in small amounts, as it is an effective neutralizer used in refining petroleum.[5] Additives that perform a similar function in a motor oil include magnesium and calcium sulphonates, salicylates, and phenates.[4] These are the detergent additives mentioned previously. To measure the alkalinity potential of a formulated oil, it is tested to obtain the equivalent amount of KOH to arrive at the oil's Total Base Number (TBN) with units of mg of KOH per gram of oil. As the additive package degrades, TBN will decrease until the motor oil needs to be replaced. Further use of the oil will permit sludge, varnish, and metal corrosion.[4] An important measurement of a motor oil's degradation and longevity is its TBN relative to a new oil.

                          Like I said before, the TBN of an oil is an important measure in selecting a suitable oil. The TBN gets used up as it absorbs acids. The acids are from combustion gasses, heat cycling, moisture, and breakdown of the oil. I'm glad I could help you learn this as it seems it was missing from your knowledge.

                          Also "engine vents" letting in air moisture? lol. you do realise an engine is a giant air pump. Also moisture (H20) is a by product of the combustion process.

        • CrankyCarrot on 26/09/2019 - 15:52

          "You should buy a car that's 3 years old. It should be about 50% cost of new."

          I'm looking at a 2013 Mazda 3 (see link below) that was $26,490 new and selling for $11,000 now.

          Assuming it lost half its value by 2016, ie $4415 per year, but only $748 per year after that to get to the selling price, does this mean it is overpriced now? Or is that still a good deal in your opinion?

          84000kms on the clock…

          https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2013-mazda-3-maxx-s…

          • oscargamer on 26/09/2019 - 19:35

            @CrankyCarrot: Doesn't look unpleasant (apart from the cosmetic scrape). I'd ask about the service history.

            Of course do a ppsr and get it inspected. If service history is there, I'd aim for $9000 and use the damage as the big bargaining tool.

            • CrankyCarrot on 26/09/2019 - 21:51

              @oscargamer: Looks like it's already been dropped to $10,500.

              Any idea how much it would likely cost to fix the scrape?

              I have ideas about driving for Uber etc on the side and I think the cosmetic damage may rule it out for that.

            • CrankyCarrot on 28/09/2019 - 09:33

              @oscargamer: "Doesn't look unpleasant (apart from the cosmetic scrape)."

              Can you just remove the skirts on these cars permanently and do without them?

              Would save $850-$1000 in repair fee plus I presume mean the car passes Uber's cosmetic req's.

              • Nuclearvodka on 28/09/2019 - 21:33

                @CrankyCarrot: Dropped to $10.000

                • CrankyCarrot on 29/09/2019 - 00:34

                  @Nuclearvodka: Thanks. Saw that and saw the car. Seems alright. Didn't feel too powerful when I accelerated, but that could just be because I'm used to driving a V6 station wagon. Assuming most hatchbacks would feel similar.

  • jimmy c on 22/09/2019 - 14:50
    +9

    Had a toyota corolla that never broke down apart from batteries getting old.

    If buying 2nd hand I would steer towards a boring old toyota corolla. Phenomenal reliability and the best selling car in the world, so parts if needed are cheap.

    • Nuclearvodka on 23/09/2019 - 18:32
      +3

      I agree on Corolla.
      I would add the Mazda 3 which doesn't depreciate as bad as a Ford Focus / other hatchbacks

  • jimmy c on 22/09/2019 - 14:53

    Oh and if choice of colour is an option, white is the best selling colour so easier to resell if needed.

  • jimmy c on 22/09/2019 - 15:02
    +1

    If buying new i might also do the same…. but check the reviews etc. Mazda 3 is a nice car also in that bracket. Toyota seems cheaper to run though in a brief google search.

    • RonT on 22/09/2019 - 15:13

      Thanks for the tips jimmy c. White Corolla is indeed top on the list.

  • spackbace on 22/09/2019 - 15:09
    +43

    Buy a $3-5k car. It'll be worth $3-5k in 12 months

    • jimmy c on 22/09/2019 - 15:14
      +1

      agreed!

    • RonT on 22/09/2019 - 15:14

      Dang!!
      I will certainly take your word.
      Does that go for any car?

      • jimmy c on 22/09/2019 - 15:44
        +2

        pretty much if it still drives. At that price range you it depends a lot on the tyres condition km and the amount rego on the car also what you can get back on it.

        Still, stick with a reliable car. Again older corolla. I had mine for 15 years + Never a problem with engine etc. Others might suggest other models. Detailing an old car befor sale, if it comes up nice and shiny and clean looking the price can be pretty stable. Look for low ks on the car and you will get better resale. Some old grandmothers car kept in a shed and used once a week for bridge class and shopping will have low km. They are around if you can nab one.

        • try2bhelpful on 22/09/2019 - 15:50

          A friend just buried her corolla and it would’ve be more than 20 years old. They have good rep for reliability.

      • crentist on 22/09/2019 - 16:36
        +1

        it goes for older cars with good reputation for reliability in particular. i did exactly this with a 15 year old toyota echo. bought for 3200, sold about 2 years later for 2700. did similar with an old mx5 too, but that was around $8k

        • unwashed00 on 23/09/2019 - 13:43

          It goes for pretty much any car unless you overpaid when buying.

          • crentist on 24/09/2019 - 01:30
            +2

            @unwashed00: well, kinda but not really. the appropriate price for cars always depreciates. at least older cars depreciate slower, and start out cheaper
            you can vary how much depreciation you feel through negotiation, patience and luck, but heading overseas in 12 months will be a terrible negotiation position

      • Zonty on 23/09/2019 - 02:22
        -2

        Not sure 3-5 k car reliable for 75 km commute. I would say buy low km not from dealer and still have warranty left. Might cost around 12000kto15000k and that car will not reduce value in year like brand new car.

        • Bargain80 on 24/09/2019 - 09:11

          Not sure 3-5 k car reliable for 75 km commute

          Why?
          I bought mine for 5K and drive 80K everyday.
          It's been 1.5 years and it's still going.

          • Zonty on 24/09/2019 - 10:07
            -2

            @Bargain80: 50% car what you buy cheap end up giving trouble. I guess you was one of50%

            • crentist on 25/09/2019 - 16:11

              @Zonty: You could say the same about new cars. Just need to know what you are buying. And older cars have had time to develop their own reputation, so in a way it's possible to make a more informed choice than some newer cars with unknown problems.

              Newer cars have some risk of new and unseen problems. It's what warranty is for, but you still don't wanna discover your new car has problems that develop in within a few years, and scares away potential buyers.

      • unwashed00 on 23/09/2019 - 13:42

        That's more down to your negotiation skills and buying at the right price initially. But it's certainly true for the most part. Even if a car depreciates at 10% a year, 10% of 3-5k is 300-500.

        • Zonty on 24/09/2019 - 10:10

          Skill lol you never know what happening under car. They freshly service and put in market as soon few weeks gone it's start all. I had problem with engine bought car for $6000 lucky me I figure out re change oil and re sell it.
          It was written off car some mechanic fix put under his name and sold as private seller.
          I knew when I ask trade in value they did not wanted touch even.

          • crentist on 25/09/2019 - 16:32

            @Zonty: That sucks. But if it was written off, there's a record of that. Did you see it?

            • Zonty on 26/09/2019 - 09:11

              @crentist: Well It was my first car and was not sure what to look in to it. Now I am ozbargainer😂😂😂. But most people still not know and make mistakes and come to rectify here.

  • jimmy c on 22/09/2019 - 15:13

    For depreciation the cars that depreciate the least the corrolla seems to be at number 3. And number one in that price range of 35k.

    I expect that 2nd hand for 12 k you might be able to sell easily for 8k after 12 months no problem. But if the au dollar comes back up vs usd then that will hit the resell value more than the ks on the car IMO.

    • BartholemewH on 24/09/2019 - 03:26

      How so? Unless you are exporting the car to the US?

      • jimmy c on 25/09/2019 - 19:05

        Well spotted. HA

  • [Deactivated] on 22/09/2019 - 15:46

    I will be driving for about 75k per day for at least 25 days a month

    Move closer to work and use public transport/ ride a bike.
    .

    • try2bhelpful on 22/09/2019 - 15:54
      +2

      Or do the 20 minute walk to work. Although my best effort, with my old work, was 3 minutes door to door if the traffic lights were in my favour and I was running. Ride to work day was hilarious.

    • RonT on 22/09/2019 - 20:56

      That was the first obvious choice but unfortunately it is not an option.

      • [Deactivated] on 22/09/2019 - 21:06
        +2

        Buy a cheap car then : the cheaper they are, the less they will depreciate.

        • Zonty on 23/09/2019 - 02:26
          -4

          Cheaper car they are more trouble you will face. I have seen many friends bought cheap car and end up sending wrecker because fixing is cost more then real value of car.

  • jimmy c on 22/09/2019 - 15:49

    One last point. Cars from inland Australia are unlikely to have rust (no ocean salt spray). Cars from Canberra are popular because of this and fetch a higher price.

    • oscargamer on 22/09/2019 - 16:10

      OK…….

    • RonT on 22/09/2019 - 20:56

      This is interesting! Did not know this.

      • Mitch889 on 24/09/2019 - 18:00
        +1

        You didn’t know this because its nonsense

    • mousie on 23/09/2019 - 12:27

      Evidence?

    • pegaxs on 23/09/2019 - 13:24
      +3

      Maybe 40 years ago…

      Almost all modern cars have galvanized bodies and panels. Unless a car has been dipped in salt water on a daily basis or the body is damaged past the galvanized steel, it's unlikely to rust.

      Cars from Canberra…

      Lol. No. I would suspect just the opposite. These cars are windows deep in bullshit every day. So basically, what you are suggesting is that a car from Alive Springs has the highest resale value in Australia??? :D

    • unwashed00 on 23/09/2019 - 13:46
      +2

      Cars in Australia don't rust at all. I am now working on my 2001 project car, no rust whatsoever. Now in Europe (especially nothern) I would expect to be able to poke the 1999 car's body with a finger in wheel arches or the like.

    • Tambani on 23/09/2019 - 21:10

      This advice is a few decades out of date. Ignore it.

  • Euphemistic on 22/09/2019 - 16:18
    +1

    When you go overseas for the 12months will you have the ability to store the car safely or possibly loan the car to friends or family to use while you are away? Leaning a car dormant for 12 months is not the end of the world, but driving it occasionally will help keep seals and hoses etc in better condition and also reduce the risk of critters making a new home.

    I wouldn’t plan on storing a new(ish) car for 12 months, except in a ‘suitable storage facility’. Ie not a carport or backyard, but a nice dry garage or warehouse etc. having to pay for suitable storage might make it worth selling and re-buying.

    • RonT on 22/09/2019 - 21:00

      I agree. I did something similar few years ago using a mate's occasional help and cheap solar panels etc, but that was only for 3 months and on a 13 year old Hyundai. Wouldnt do that for 12 months on a new car.

  • Simoneee on 22/09/2019 - 18:55
    +3

    Second Hand Toyota Camry Hybrid.

    1. Fuel efficient
    2. Reliable
    3. Aren't usually floored because its driven by mature aged people
    • Euphemistic on 22/09/2019 - 20:25
      +3

      Leaving it for 12months will probably not be good for the batteries.

    • RockyRaccoon on 23/09/2019 - 08:50
      +1

      Could also be an Ex-Taxi 🚖 or government car, like councils who wannabe green

  • TheMindsetTraveller on 22/09/2019 - 20:37

    Are you driving 75kms for work? Or is that the round trip to get to/from work?

    If it was the latter, I would be tempted to rent a house closer to work.

    • RonT on 22/09/2019 - 21:01

      Wouldve if i couldve

  • JIMB0 on 22/09/2019 - 20:46

    Could rent it out and make $$$ from it while you're overseas.

    • RonT on 22/09/2019 - 21:01
      +1

      Pray tell me more!

      • chess on 23/09/2019 - 11:36

        carhood, if you're from melb, syd or bris

        • RonT on 23/09/2019 - 21:58

          Had to Google. Interesting! Tempted!

  • [Deactivated] on 23/09/2019 - 07:16
    +6

    I'm in Sydney.
    We don't have cars here. There's no room for cars here.

    You're in Adelaide.
    Can't you walk to Church?

    • RonT on 23/09/2019 - 21:50

      lol

  • payless69 on 23/09/2019 - 08:03
    -1

    A backpacker "bomb" left in John smith's name will be the least worry. Why waste money on a hybrid when servos are plentiful? Brake pads are cheap what else matters?

  • freakatronic on 23/09/2019 - 09:30
    +1

    Definitely just buy a sub $5k runabout. If it's got about 100,000km on it then you won't do anything to the price by driving it every day.
    Bargain sellers hard and find a weak hand who just needs to be rid of their car. Offer them 60% of their asking price and walk if they don't accept. When you get your bargain secondhand car you'll have some margin left in it to either sell nice and quick for minimal loss, or sell for more than you bought to recoup some of your running costs.

    Forget about holding onto your car for your year away. Sitting still is bad for cars. Fluids go bad, seals perish, connections corrode. Even if stored in a cool, dry location this stuff will happen. It will be amplified if you store your car outside or in the weather.

    • CrankyCarrot on 23/09/2019 - 11:05

      "Offer them 60% of their asking price"

      Is this a general rule of thumb for bargaining on 2nd hand cars?

      I know a guy who knows a guy who's selling a 2007 Tiida with about 75,000kms for $5000 (6 months rego). Should I offer him 3 grand? Or is this already a good price for that?

      • freakatronic on 23/09/2019 - 11:11

        Nah it's not any rule. You'll probably have very, very limited success going so low below a seller's asking. I only say 60% so that you can position yourself well to get rid of it later. There's absolutely no guarantee that anyone will take an unpalatable offer. If you have time and patience and it's the game you're playing, then eventually you'll find someone who needs cash today. You solve their problem and they'll take your offer.

        • CrankyCarrot on 23/09/2019 - 11:21

          Oh right.

          This guy with the Tiida is an old bloke/former car dealer who still dabbles in re-selling from time to time. Car is from a deceased estate and apparently he sold it to the dearly departed a few years back (Death due to old age, not car accident - I checked).

          Like the OP I'm trying to sharpen my bargaining skills with cars have the same upper budget, ie max 10-12k for something used.

          Carsales says a 2007 Tiida sells for an average of $5750 or so. Does that mean this is a good deal, or a maybe ok deal that I should negotiate on?

          I have some patience - my preference is for something under 10 years actually.

          • freakatronic on 23/09/2019 - 11:27
            +2

            @CrankyCarrot: If he's a former car dealer he'll out hustle you in his sleep.

            • CrankyCarrot on 23/09/2019 - 11:45

              @freakatronic: Sure, but just on the specs though - does it sound like a reasonable deal anyway?

          • Euphemistic on 23/09/2019 - 11:35
            +1

            @CrankyCarrot: Tiida’s are pretty unloved. They should be cheap.

            • CrankyCarrot on 23/09/2019 - 11:45

              @Euphemistic: That's what I've heard. As far as hatchbacks go they're pretty roomy though apparently - and I'm 6'3" so it's appreciated.

              • CrankyCarrot on 23/09/2019 - 11:46

                @CrankyCarrot: I mean, they just didn't get marketed so well right? It's not that they're bad cars technically - just unknown and unsexy?

                • freakatronic on 23/09/2019 - 12:09

                  @CrankyCarrot: A colleague has a Tiida with CVT and she hates it.

                  • CrankyCarrot on 23/09/2019 - 12:14

                    @freakatronic: Ha ha, really? Why?

                    PS Googling CVT… Maybe that will answer my q.

                    • freakatronic on 23/09/2019 - 12:32

                      @CrankyCarrot: CVT is probably a very easy transmission to hate. Slow, gutless feeling + unreliable. I'm not into self- congratulation just for loving manual, but a lot of the new automatic transmissions do not last very well.

                      • CrankyCarrot on 23/09/2019 - 13:35

                        @freakatronic: I was considering learning manual and making them one of my next cars. I am in Sydney though, and you always hear how impractical manuals are for city driving.

                        How can I find out if the Tiida 2007 ST has CVT before I go out and see or buy it? Everything I see online says to check the VIN or something.

                        • ColstonAUS on 23/09/2019 - 13:55

                          @CrankyCarrot: Pro Tip: Dont buy a Tiida, I'm 22, i have owned 5 cars so far and the 2007 Tiida was by far the worst car i have ever driven or owned.

                          • CrankyCarrot on 23/09/2019 - 14:03

                            @ColstonAUS: Was it the ST?

                            What specifically didn't you like about it?

                            • ColstonAUS on 23/09/2019 - 14:14

                              @CrankyCarrot: It was the ST, it somehow manages to be a small car with a small engine whilst using a terribly large amount of fuel, all the while having no power to show for it and struggles when trying to get it to exert itself at all. Drives very average, the interior of the car is way behind its time, and although it has a lot of room (me being 6'5") which was good, it wasn't very comfortable. It looks terrible in my opinion (i had the baby poo green colour so it looked even worse) and it is expensive to fix. In the short time i owned mine i had a handful of problems with it. There are other minor things as well like very little storage space for anything, except the glovebox. I paid $5000 for mine and it was the biggest mistake i have made so far with a car. Struggled to sell it and ended up taking $2900 a year later because i wanted it gone.

                              • CrankyCarrot on 23/09/2019 - 17:07

                                @ColstonAUS: Wow. Thanks for the thorough run down. I think you've convinced me to avoid it.

                                Did it have that auto/CVT transmission?

                                I just walked past one out on the street and they do look… kinda ugly.

                        • freakatronic on 23/09/2019 - 14:06

                          @CrankyCarrot: They should say right in the ad I think. The transmission is as fundamental to the car as the number of doors in my opinion. Should be headline information.

                          I hear people complain about the difficulty of manual in traffic. I concede that if someone suffers any joint pain in their legs, a manual is probably not gonna be the way to go. However, I have only ever had manuals and I live in Melbourne not Sydney. Traffic is worse for you.

    • RonT on 23/09/2019 - 21:51

      This is what I am hoping for. Not very keen on keeping the car still. Just doesnt feel right.

  • CrankyCarrot on 23/09/2019 - 12:25

    …Right, ok now I know what that is.

    How do I find out if the '07 Tiida ST has CVT?

    [edit] Replying to another thread tree…

    • BartholemewH on 24/09/2019 - 03:40

      Both Redbook and Caradvice (for example) state the MY07 Tiida has a 4 speed conventional auto. Not sure where you are getting CVT info from. Luckily none of this matters because the Tiida is a Thai built heap of shit, and even my mum hated her Tiida work car at the time when it was brand new.

      • CrankyCarrot on 26/09/2019 - 13:28

        Ok, that's at least 3 people with nothing but hate for the Tiida.

        I thought being Nissan it would be made in Japan. So they outsource it, I guess.

  • mousie on 23/09/2019 - 12:32

    By a car from an auction house

    /car roulette.

    A small car without no service history at 70k is may be more unreliable than one at 110kms with full service history.

    Buy it and then sell it. You will probably lose 2kish on a 6k car in the deal, but you may be able to buy a car with rego and sell one without etc.

    Be mindful that some of the cars in this range may have new plates.. I would avoid them personally if there hasn't been continuity of ownership or rego. You'll probably get some old ladies I20 / Mazda 2 just sub 7k

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