Another Car Question

Hi,

Just another car question for the community out there as this is a bit tricky situation (at least for me).

I need a reliable small car for at least another 12 months (lets say all of 2020) due to my work commitments. I will be driving for about 75k per day for at least 25 days a month. However, after the next 12 months, I will be overseas for a year (lets say all of 2021), so I wont be needing the car. When I come back (lets say in 2022), I will be needing the car again.

So the questions are,

  1. Apart from selling the car after 12 months (and buy again later), are there other options people know for this situation, so that I dont have to buy a car again in 2022?
  2. If selling is the only meaningful option left, can you suggest a hatchback that doesnt depreciate THAT much in 12 months? (I know they all do, but looking for best of the worst)

Thanks in advance.
RonT

Comments

    • +2

      Certainly will be looking out in auctions. Thanks.

      • If you are buying from auctions you will pay less and have less competition (and potential gearbox problems) if you can drive a manual. If possible always inspect in person, even if bidding online.

    • I feel like it'd be better to stick with fleet/ex-lease cars in that environment. Why would some old ladies car sell at auction when it'd do just fine privately or on a dealer lot?

  • I will be driving for about 75k per day

    I'd be happy to drive for $75k per annum

    • That, is the big idea!

  • +1

    Buy something that doesn't depreciate and then either park it up for the year you don't need it or sell it for what you paid for it. Something like an NA or NB MX5.

  • +2

    Buy a Holden Commodore anywhere from 97 to 2005 (VT, VX, VY, VZ) for sub $5000 and sell it 12 months later for what you bought it for. Cheap and reliable, and if something happens to it they are cheap to fix, if you get into an accident and write it of you are much better off. Dirt cheap to insure as well. Definitely don't waste any more than that if you're going to get a car and get rid of it 12 months later, you may as well burn money.

  • Welcome to OzCargain.com !!!

  • Get a VW Polo/Golf/Jetta/Passat/CC. First 2 are hatches. We have a Polo & Jetta in the family, friend had Passat and CC.

    Jetta is a 2007 Diesel, best on fuel, smoothest and easiest to drive.

    Polo (2009) I do 100km minimum 5 days a week, thrash it and has never missed a beat. Got it as an auction car for $3000. Fun to drive as well. Newer Polos are okay to drive, but I'd get a Polo GTI for a daily if I found it cheap.

    Edit: Toyota's are reliable, but not as fun to drive imo.

    • Thank you for the tips.

      • You're welcome. And if you can find an older Subaru with low km's for a good price is recomend that too. An Impreza wagon can even be taken camping and AWD does come in handy.

    • +1

      on a diesel keep the tank full in storage to prevent condensation. Water entering the fuel pump is going to make you cry.

  • Buy a $2k-$4k cheapy. Take the spark leads etc out for security, and battery out/sell it and store car in a dry place/under dry tarp.
    24m from now get a 2ndhand/new battery, she'll be right. Only 1y rego wasted.

    A modern battery only needs charging once or twice in 12 months to stay healthy. So a friend could charge or chuck in their car for a few days.

  • I'm in a similar situation to you. I'll be doing a 75km commute 5 days a week in traffic, in a couple of months. That's close to 20,000km a year to and from work.

    You are going to be doing over 20,000km for the year. If you add up fuel costs, the difference between an economical car and one that drinks a bit more can easily be a few thousand dollars a year. A newish car with low kms will depreciate a lot if you are putting that many kms on it every year.

    My advice is to buy a cheap, small reliable Japanese car for around $5k and ideally no more than around 150k on the clock. Something along the lines of a Civic or Corolla. I would avoid a Golf/VW - they're economical and might drive a bit better but not exactly the most reliable.

    After the 12 months are up, you could sell it without losing a whole lot of money - depending on what you buy it for, you could even break even or make some extra on top. If you dont want to sell, if it sits there for a year depreciation wont be a whole lot.

    If you are willing to consider something that isn't a hatch back, LPG Commodores are actually very economical to drive. Cheaper than a small hatch back, will drive better and be more comfortable. You could get a VE or VF LPG only Commodore for $10-15k.

    • Thank you. Thats valuable. I will still stick to hatchback though for now to keep the budget low.

  • Why not just rent a Jazz or Yaris for a year? Consider whether you want to purchase one when you return or continue renting.

  • I will be driving for about 75k per day for at least 25 days a month.

    Jesus - you need a new JOB not a new CAR.

    • Lol. Unfortunately some of us have to do the dirty job!!

    • It's not as bad as you think. 45-50km each way to work takes me 30-35 mins with no traffic if I'm doing the speed limit. I work nights so it's probably q bit different for most people. I prefer this compared to day shift in traffic, even 15 mins.

      • 45-50km each way to work takes me 30-35 mins with no traffic if I'm doing the speed limit

        You don’t live in Sydney, do you?

        • +1

          No thankfully, I live in Melbourne.

          I'd go crazy in Sydney traffic.

          Traffic is one thing that will make me take up a night shift job.

          • @Tuftsdude: Yeah didn't think you did going by your description haha

      • Cutting down from 75km per day to say 25km per day will save 50km/day worth of fuel. At 6l/100km that’s about 3Lx$1.50x5 daysx48 weeks is just over $1k. Put some extra in for tyres, wear and tear and additional depreciation, may and extra $1-2k.

        Now to find a job that is close but only pays $1-3k less to break even.

        Of course there are other benefits such as reduced commuting time.

  • 75k per day? OMG /// :-

  • What do people here think about a used Mazda 3 like this?

    https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/minchinbury/cars-vans-utes/2…

    The yard sales guys' "boss has gone mad," apparently.

    • 174000 kms?
      No deal

      • What would be the upper threshold where, with everything else (price etc) the same, you would say it is a deal?

        100,000kms? 75,000?

        • From a quick search, you could find a more recent and less kms Mazda 3 Maxx for $11000

          https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2013-mazda-3-maxx-s…

          https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2011-mazda-3-maxx-s…

          • @Nuclearvodka: That first one, the 2013 model looks pretty good, at least to me.

            The specs list a warranty: "$550 Basic package 3 year period,"

            …I assume I have to pay that and it's not in there already. Is that worth getting? People usually say non-manufacturer warranties are a waste of money.

            Also is it worth bartering over this? Are there similar cars out there for 11k worth seriously considering before pulling the trigger on this?

            • @CrankyCarrot: I would always discuss the price.
              ALWAYS.
              See if you can save a few hundred bucks.
              Regarding the warranty, I'm not sure as I don't what it covers.
              There's a few car specialist on this forum who would be better at explaining I'm sure.

              • @Nuclearvodka: Thanks.

                The warranty is actually hyperlinked to some basic info saying it covers "expensive" things that might need repairing, ie engine, gearbox etc.

                I'd probably avoid it for $550.

                • @CrankyCarrot: The 2011 model comes with this.

                  PLEASE ALSO NOTE THAT THIS VEHICLE INCLUDES 5 YRS/UNLIMITED KLM WARRANTY AUS WIDE WITH FREE 12 MONTHS ROAD SIDE SERVICE FOR THIS MONTH ONLY.

                  ONLY CONDITIONS TO THIS EXCLUSIVE WARRANTY IS THAT THE VEHICLE HAS TO BE SERVICED EVERY 10000 klms, BY ANY LICENSED MECHANIC IN AUS.

                  ALSO ALL OUR VEHICLES HAVE A 100 POINT SAFETY INSPECTION AND ARE SERVICED PRIOR TO SALE.

                  That's pretty good IMO

                  • @Nuclearvodka: I thought people generally regarded Dealer warranty's as fraught with loopholes and not being worth the paper they're written on?

                    "FREE 12 MONTHS ROAD SIDE SERVICE FOR THIS MONTH ONLY."

                    I already have most of a 12 month NRMA Roadside Ast. membership left, which I believe would provide the same thing.

                    For the price, I'd probably rather have the 2 year newer vehicle with less KMs.

                    • @CrankyCarrot: Redbook says of the 2013 model that the avg used price would be between $10,800 to $12,600 with 90,000km-150,000kms, with this being $11,000 and having 82,000kms.

                      Am I right then in thinking it likely wouldn't get much better than this?

                      I've heard mixed things about Redbook valuations.

                      • @CrankyCarrot: It's right there in the sweet spot.
                        I think there are a few scratches on the car, probably why the price is low.

    • That one would fetch $5000 as a trade in
      If it was in perfect condition.

      • Good to know.

        • $10k for it is too much compared to what you can find.
          $7000 would be ok at best.
          I understand car dealerships need to make money, but $10k for an 8 years old car that has travelled 175.000km is a rip off

          • @Nuclearvodka: Well that's what I need to know. I'm learning.

            Only bought one other car in my life and that was over 10 years ago.

  • Buy a used one - something easy to sell, and sell it before you go. Sometimes the car might not even depreciate over the 12 mths period - in your case, probably unlikely given the mileage…

    We did that when we went overseas to work… silly to leave a car sitting around for a year or more…

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