[WA] Problems with Purchase of 2003 Toyota Camry

Hey,

Thanks for having me on this forum. If this is not the right place for this post, please move it.

I have some issues with my car and I need some advice. About 6 months ago I bought a used 2003 Toyota Camry Altise from a registered dealer in the city. It is my first car, I have no experience with buying cars and basically no knowledge of them (besides driving). Anyhow, the dealer said that the car passed a service just a week before and that everything was working as it should. He signed a contract that he had delivered the car in “road worthy condition”. I also got 12 months warranty. He said I should get it serviced every 10,000 km or 6 months.

So, because the car to me seemed to work fine, I took his word for it. Yesterday I had the car serviced, and they found several problems.

  • Lower control arm (rear) bushes. Had not been replaced since car was made. Almost off.
  • Front right indicator does not work. Holder for it completely missing.
  • Missing/defunct brake lights.
  • Air filter needs change.

The only one of these that seems in order is the air filter. But, the mechanic said that the rest of the problems have been there since before I bought the car. Which to me means that the dealer sold me a car that was not “road worthy” or safe. I called both the dealer and my warranty company. The dealer said that it is not his responsibility and I should have “checked the car better” before I bought it. The warranty company says that none if this is covered. So please help me understand.

  1. How can none of this be covered under warranty? How can he sell me a car of this condition and get away with it?

  2. Most of these things I can repair for $100.00. But, the lower control arm will cost me $300+. It that really necessary to replace? Can I do it myself in any way for a cheaper price?

Thanks a lot!

Comments

              • @bradpaisley94: people with common sense do

                topic close, these are your choices

                1.) fix it
                2.) lodge claim with vcat
                2.) go to a lawyer and pay more money and sue for misrepresentation / breach of warranty, and drop 50k

                • @Donaldhump: Not sure vcat will help when the car is registered in WA.

                  • @Eeples: Okay so go to wa equivalent, I’m sure a person could work that out.

              • +1

                @bradpaisley94: I think it's pretty universal across the world that used car salesmans have their own self interest above the buyers.
                Which is true for any salesperson but when your spending a fair chunk of your cash it does show sense to go in extra prepared.

              • +1

                @bradpaisley94:

                That I need to pay a mechanic and a translator to go with me when I buy a used car? I don’t think people do that.

                If I was in Croatia then it would be wise of me to take a trusted local friend with me to buy a 2nd hand car.

                Reading your responses, I think you are just trying to wind people up now.

          • @bradpaisley94: Bureaucracy? lol it isn't Bureaucracy it is common sense and applies to any country when you are spending a chunk of money in an area you don't understand. It applies doubly when dealing with salespeople.

      • Please stop using 'AUD'.

        • Is that the wrong shortening?

          • +2

            @bradpaisley94: When you're in Australia, you just call it '$' . It is understood that you're talking about the local currency.

            p.s: Welcome to Australia and good luck with your studies :)

      • +1

        You are lucky the cost of repair is only $500. What if there is a major fault with the engine that will cost you thousands $ to fix? Now that pre-purchase inspection fee seems to be worth it, isn't it?

      • +1

        But, I don’t get why I need to be a car expert to be able to buy a car.

        This is one of the most ignorant statements you've made. If you don't know how to check a used car:

        1) Hire a mechanic to do it for you
        2) Ask a friend who knows about cars
        3) Buy a new or demo car
        4) Catch public transport

        Stop trying to palm off the problem to other people. You've been driving around a seriously dangerous car.

      • You do have the option of taking public transport. Owning and driving a car is not mandatory in a Australia.

        Buy a bicycle and you won't have the problem you've described.

    • +1

      Lack of care? This is about standard level of care for Camry drivers, they are the worst on the road.

  • +1

    Count yourself lucky you didn't get pulled over by the police and fined for driving with no brake lights, or worse, have someone run into the back of you and get severely injured!

    • +1

      he would have blamed the police

  • +1

    were r u exactly located, i have a friend in melbourne who can do the bushes for a carton of beer

    • WA

    • I am not sure if you are serious, but I am located in Perth. However, I am driving from Perth to Sydney next month and staying in Melbourne 5 nights in mid-June. Considering your friend could do it so cheap, do you think the mechanic is ripping me off by wanting 320 AUD to fix the bushes?

      • +19

        You are seriously considering driving the car 3000+km with a worn out lower control arms. Seems as though the bushes are not the only thing that is loose. Seems the nut behind the steering wheel is also in need of checking…

        And as a mechanic, no, $320 to replace a set of worn front lower control arm bushes is about right. Driving the car 3000+km to get a "case of beer" fix on the other hand, isnt.

        • Naturally I will have everything fixed before I leave Perth. Just trying to do it in cheapest way possible

          • @bradpaisley94: Travelling 3500km with a known problem is not ideal. Usually before a big trip you get your problems sorted before you leave.
            Fixing things in the middle of nowhere is when things start getting crazy expensive.

          • +2

            @bradpaisley94: Mate, this is the shit that's broken in your car right now… during a 4000km drive across a fairly harsh environment is likely going to cause some fairly serious failures. Given your financial situation, you're either going to have to pay exorbitant repairs or probably abandon the vehicle somewhere.

            This thread is quite entertaining. Can you do a video log on Youtube if you choose to disregard the advice here? I promise I'd follow it everyday.

      • +5

        I think you should reconsider your road trip. This is not Europe and people don't just drive between east and west coasts.

        • What? I already have 40 nights booked, so I am not reconsidering. I will much rather pay 500 and then go on with it.

          • +3

            @bradpaisley94: I think they are just trying to warn you to expect further stops at mechanics to interrupt your road trip.

            A Toyota Camry is one of the most reliable and inexpensive cars, but 16 year old cars are going to have problems sometimes.

            You got lucky to buy a 2003 car with only $500 or so needed in repairs, and if you make it from Perth to Sydney without any more, you're even luckier.

          • +8

            @bradpaisley94: Surely this is a troll post?!

            Can’t afford to the cost of repairs or to pay for a second opinion from another mechanic but has 40 (that’s right 40) nights of accommodation booked for a holiday. No way this story is real.

          • +2

            @bradpaisley94: Mate, that distance is not suitable for your clunker of a vehicle. Break down in the Nullabor and you'll be looking at much more $ than the appropriate flights to tow and fix it.

            Not to the mention the hassle of breaking down in the middle of. A. Desert.

          • +3

            @bradpaisley94: You can afford 40 nights accommodation, a good $1000+ in fuel for the trip but struggle with $500 repair? taking a car that distance costs more than the flights (that is if your car even makes it).

      • +1

        well please don't drive across from perth to melbourne with this car (there is sfa to see anyway really), consider flying and instead of paying $600 for petrol use that money to fix your car and sell it.

        and no 320 is not a rip off, he would do it cheap as in as a favour as i feel your plight and he would do as a favour for me, but this aint going to happen.

      • +3

        However, I am driving from Perth to Sydney next month and staying in Melbourne

        I have many German / Austrian friends that have no concept of distances in Aus. You do realise that Perth-Sydney is ~4000km. That's like driving from Zagreb, Croatia to Tehran, Iran. Zagreb to Frankfurt is only 900km.

        Waits for the "I'm stuck in Eucla and the owner keeps asking if I can squeal like a pig" thread.

        And yes, the $320 is a fair price and you should get the job done before leaving.

        Read these:
        https://clairesfootsteps.com/driving-across-nullarbor-plain/

        https://atravellersfootsteps.com/driving-across-the-nullarbo…

  • +3

    I can understand the OP's frustration.

    Buying from a retail seller with a warranty could easily mislead someone into thinking they were buying a car without defects or, if there were defects, they would be covered by the warranty.

    Unfortunately that is not the case. It's the Wild West when it comes to purchasing second hand cars.

    OP, my advice would be to:
    1. spend the money to get the problems fixed; and
    2. count yourself lucky that the problems were not more severe; and
    3. consider it an expensive life lesson.

    • +3
      1. consider it an expensive life lesson.

      It will come in at <$1,000. Not expensive.

      Expensive is driving into a light pole, pole collapses on a house and driver is uninsured.

      I'd call this very minimal. Thank goodness they had the good sense of getting all these problems fixed before they got into an accident with invalid insurance.

      • +1

        It is not expensive in absolute terms, but it is expensive for the OP, a student making $280 per week.

        • +5

          Oh, I learnt a lot when I was working whilst studying. It feels expensive but it is not. Just have to cut back on luxuries like food.

          There's so much you can do with Mi Goreng.

          There is Mi Goreng with an egg. Mi Goreng with two eggs…

          • +3

            @[Deactivated]: Mi Goreng! the saviour of students by the box full! :) ahh the memories.

          • @[Deactivated]: I'm imagining Mi Goreng with a pair of cracked, dirty, saggy 16 year old lower control arm bushings. mmmm!

        • then not wise to have a car.

        • Surely you can earn more than that? Even if OP is an overseas student limited to work 20 hours, he should be able to earn more than that. I knew a single mum who studied full time and worked 2 jobs and still able to raise her daughter.

          • @rave75: Back when I was a student (over 10 years ago), I knew a lot of other internationals making 5-7 bucks an hour. This "cash-in-hand" exploitation is still almost everywhere, from convenience stores to small restaurants and cafes.

            • @ThadtheChad: Yes, obviously it is still happening now. I am pretty sure OP doesn't have visa restriction anyway.

  • +1

    Can someone tell me if fixing/replacing the lower control arm (rear) is the same as suspension bushes replacement?

    • Not the same.

      • Should it be a big difference in price?

        • Not sure mate. Even your mechanic will struggle to tell you if they are going to use wrecker parts as price can vary.

    • LCAs contain bushes (aka bushings) which are rubber joints that wear out. Arms do not, but many shops will remove the old arm along with the bushing/s pressed into it, and replace it in one go to save time. It is quicker and easier to do than removing and replacing the bushings on their own.

      Some front arms are designed to have the bushings more easily replaced, for example on most commodity 20 year old BMWs the bushing that wears the most is the big one, costs $45/pair delivered online, and can be done by a competent owner and with a jack and a 13mm socket. On the same car (I am no Camry expert), a rear LCA is a couple of hundred or less if you buy a used part. Fitting it is more involved so will cost an hour or two of time and should require a wheel alignment which is likely to be an extra $50 or so. The BMW LCA has three $20 bushings which last 300K, so about 20 years- longer even if the car is not driven hard or used on salty roads which in Australia is very rare indeed.

      The bright side is that if the rear bushings are bad, the fronts will have been done at some point earlier, so with any luck that wasn't so long ago and you won't need to do them so soon. All this should be in the service history of the car- buying any 16yo motor car you should be looking for evidence of all arms/joints, (plus mounts, shock absorbers and other wear items) to have been replaced at least once or thrice. Plus all the major service tasks that are due or due soon.

      You can't buy a car that by definition at 16yo is going to be worn and near End of Life to save money unless you will barely use it. The average life of cars in Australia was 12 years but has been dropping for a long time now, so maybe more like 8 now. Overseas it is lower. An aged Camry, unless it has detailed and believable service history, is as likely as the next vehicle to be a very costly investment.

      PS. What evidence is there that the rear bushings are bad? Is one physically cracked/broken? Even if it is, you should check carefully for tyre wear- feathering of the treads, poor road holding, incorrect tracking (toe/camber)- if the car drives through sharp corners without the feeling of steering itself from the rear or sloppiness, and the tyres are not wearing, your mechanic may just be winding you up for an easy $320. Unlikely, but I've seen far worse. Lots of people will see a cracked bushing and say its bad. It probably is, but it may not be as critical as it seems if it is not generating some nasty effects. A worn rear bushing, if it not affecting overall handling and tyre wear, is most unlikely to be a safety concern.

  • OP also needs to know that even if he pays $450 for EXPERT pre-purchase inspection, he can't hold that EXPERT guy accountable even if he picks up nothing on the report.

    Either way, buyer's beware. All shits are up buyer's ass.

  • +1

    Grab the workshop manual and fix it yourself. Its a 2003 model car, so its probably going to need some more fixing up in the future so best to learn howto now. Workshop manual will give you precise step by step guide, especially if your short on cash. You could take out the existing control arms and get a shop/wrecker to help you put new bushings in (need a press) or check out how much a complete new assembly is. While your there you might want to check if the shocks are leaking etc.

    My first car was off the road for the first 1 month while I learnt how to fix it using the workshop manual. still miss it today.

  • Indicator assembly should be cheap from a wreckers, and straightforward to fit yourself provided no pre-existing damage.

    Same with tail/brake lights.

    Lower control arm bushes need to be done by someone that knows what they're doing, but you should be able to find someone to do it for a reasonable price.

    • What is a reasonable price for that? (so that I know if they are trying to rip me off)

      • +1

        ring around and just say I need to replace xyz on this model of car how much can you do it for ? I think you got quoted $320 which to me is reasonable.

    • +1

      I think you'll find it's the bulb holder missing, not the assembly. He won't get the bulb holder if he buys the assembly and then it will need some solder skills.

      The OP is as thick as 2 short planks when it comes to cars so best to leave it to a mechanic.

  • +1

    I dont understand how you did not know that the brake & indicator lights were not working?
    Dead simple to check and now you say that it only came to your attention after 6 months of ownership and driving.
    You bought a 16 y/o car from a used car dealer and now act surprised that it has faults and needs repairs…???
    A couple of facts of life…
    Salesmen lie… No matter what you buy.
    Cars wear out and cost $$ to maintain & repair.

    • Yes, I have learned that now. The lights are not the problem, the LCA is.

      • The problem was you didn't notice / did notice but didn't fix the light straight away.

  • Seriously? You drove a car for six months and had no idea your indicators didn't work nor did the brake lights? The other items, they are wear and tear items.

  • +1

    Mate, you bought an old car from a dodgy dealer, with a warranty worth nothing.

    Even if your warranty was good, they won't cover the air filter (wear and tear), control arm bushes (wear and tear), globes (wear and tear), and the dealer will do anything he can to deny that the indicator globe holder was missing (you should have been onto him when you picked the car up and one of the indicators was flashing really fast).

    How is the top tank on the radiator? That age of Camry, with plastic top tank, get very brittle and split, likely across the Nullarbor.

    • Well, it seems hard for OP to afford $500 repair on a car, maybe he shouldn't buy a car in his current financial situation. Hopefully there won't be major problems with his car in the future and/or accident that requires him to repair his car.

      • Hopefully he has insurance, and doesn't think compulsory third party means tpp.

        • Good point and it IS confusing for someone from overseas…

      • OP has apparently planned a road trip from Perth to the east coast and booked 40 nights accommodation.

        OP's financial situation is murky at best

        • 40 nights accommodation in a YMCA is quite cheap lol

          • @fatal: Maybe we move in different circles… No one that I know that is strapped for cash stops working to go on a 40 day holiday

  • -3

    I would ask a mate to go to his dealership as customer, inquire about an expensive car but before he puts a deposit down. Ill make an entry complaining about my car and how warranty is worth nothing. Should teach him/her a lesson

    • +3

      So waste your mates time too for what exactly? To make the manager mildly irritated?

  • 16 years old car? Buy the parts from Ebay then find an apprentice on airtasker to replace for you.

  • +2

    It’s a bit dodgy that one can’t take a salespersons word for it. I thought we had laws against con men. I suppose not. Somehow being lied to is OPs fault for believing him. Wtf.

  • its all a common problems for 2003 car. dont worry, i heard worse story than your. be grateful.

  • +1

    minor problems for a very old car … in fact, pretty awesome for the age.

    get them repaired and move on.

    if you bought anything else other than a toyota, your problems would be triple.

  • Ask your mechanic where you stand with your story. He should know the law off the record so to speak before you waste time and money ringing other people. If he doesn't know maybe he is shifty and everything is OK.

  • +2

    OP, please don’t bring your car to Sydney before you fix those break lights. It’s already a zoo here…

  • It is an old car and you have had it for six months, the control arm is long term wear for sure and may have been missed. Go to one roadworthy inspection and then another and you will find they pick up different issues.

    Air filter should be done every 6 months (for my vehicle), indicator bulbs etc fail, they would have been working when the car was checked initially because those are generally cheap to replace and very visible signs of compliance.

    As it is your first car, these things happen when it is older, don’t take it to heart. Also if a garage is telling you something that doesn’t seem right then take it to another to compare or ask to see what they mean. Garages can be sharks and it pays to find one you can trust…..

    • +2

      Air filter every 6 months? You've got to be kidding. What car is it?

      My car is every 4yrs / 60,000km

  • +1

    These are pretty minor. I suggest to fix the indicator, brakes, do a service and replace the air filter and keep driving it. The bushes would just make the car handle slightly different and might get noisy later. You can do it at a later stage.

    Air Filter and Brake light isn't the dealers fault. As for the indicator, I don't think any RWC tester would ever risk getting in trouble for a part so cheap/easy to fix, and so obvious to anyone buying the car.

    Bushes, read what is involved for a RWC. I think split bushes fail RWC but it can split 1km after inspection.

  • Welcome to adulthood - you are responsible for your actions and inactions

    If all this costs you is $300, consider yourself lucky and move on.

  • Those addon used car warranties are basically worthless. If you read the fineprint and conditions, basically they only cover you if the engine explodes, and even then…

    1. You don’t REALLY want to learn any of this, or improve your knowledge about cars.
    2. You don’t have third party insurance 😡
  • -1

    Who the hell drives a car without a working indicator for 12 months before realizing?

    Hand in your license. Problem solved. If that sounds harsh, tough. Could get someone killed driving a car in that condition.

    • -1

      To be fair, it's hard to see from inside your car.

      • -1

        You don't drive at night? You can't see a goddamn reflection? The road worthiness of your car is your responsibility.

        • I don't, but fair point.

          As for whose responsibility, it could vary from state to state, but in mine, it's the seller's responsibility to provide a certificate of roadworthiness. Not the buyer.

          • -1

            @lostn: It's your responsibility to ensure the car you are driving is road worthy regardless of the seller or dealer's obligation to ensure it is road worthy. You can't drive a car where nothing works, run someone over and then blame a dealer? Grow up!

            • @syousef: A car whose blinkers don't work isn't a car where "nothing" works. How do you even run someone over when nothing works?

              If you've bought the car, and you have a certificate saying it's roadworthy, then it's not on you to take apart the entire car to examine every component to see that it's all in good order. The certificate is an assurance that it's been checked and in roadworthy condition. If it's not actually roadworthy, then you've been ripped off, and the responsibility is with the buyer and certifier who messed up.

              • @lostn: ROAD WORTHY. Do you understand the concept? There is a bare minimum that is suppose to work including blinkers. They aren't optional extras. If your A pilar obscures the view of the pedestrian that you're about to run over they're suppose to have some warning you're about to turn. Understand?

                How about I sell you a car where the brakes don't work? Everything else does, so you should be cool with it. Or maybe it's just intermittent. They work 99% of the time. Sweet deal right? Are brakes more important than indicators? Yes. Are indicators therefore not important and not required for roadworthy condition? NO.

  • contact the sellers irst and ask "does the "consumers warranty cover the vehicle",if no, contact your state Dept of either Consumers Affairs or The dept of Fair trading and they should answer your problem and advise you to some place that handles these problems,I live in Canberra and purchased a car in NSW,3 months later I had to change the rego over to ACT rego,when the car was checked the mechanic found $700 worth of problems before he could pass it,I contacted the car yard but he refused to help getting it repaired,I contacted The Dept Fairtrading and they told me to ask the sellers about the CONSUMERS WARRANTY,he emailed me and asked me how much I want from him,I told him $600,he hung up and the money was in my bank account with no argument from him the next morning,
    remember—in some states and territories they have "CONSUMER AFFAIRS" in others is "THE DEPT OF FAIRTRADING",EVERYTHING HAS AN EXPECTED LIFE TERM.
    You buy a tv with 12 months warranty but the actual consumer warranty is 5-7 years,so that is what these companies offer you but that is not the life expectancy of the tv.

    • +4

      Cars in WA have zero warranty after 12yrs, OP's car is 16yo

      Source - Department of Commerce (WA)

    • +1

      It's a 16 year old car with who knows how many KMs. If people want new, they need to buy new.

        1. New cars can be lemons and new car owners sometimes get shafted by dealers and manufacturers.

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sVmoOZRypk

        1. The statutory warranties are there to stop dealers, who know much more about cars, from preying upon less knowledgeable car buyers.
    • +2

      This >> . << This right here. It is a full stop.

      ,

  • this guy wants to drive from Perth to Sydney in his shitbox with a dodgy LCA just so he can get a bargain for his lower control arm replaced for a case of beer. When told not to do so he never back down as he already paid upfront all his accommodation along the way and saving is more important than his life. CAN WE GET ANY OTHER BARGAIN SPIRIT MORE THAN THIS???

    OP please I implore you to reconsider doing this. If you are road-tripping yourself, you are gonna spend a lot of time on the road, please think of other road users and take regular breaks. If you are going with friends, please think of their lives and consider get your car in shape before heading off. Honestly, I went to drive for 1500km and that was 3 people and it took us 7 days and while we had fun we were very tired by the end of it. That 40 days holiday please consider doing something else. Australia is not Europe, we hardly have any small towns/villages/civilisation along the way. The people sticks to major city for a reason, which means the rest of the country is incredibly harsh.

  • I don't know what state you're in but in VIC, a car has to be sold with a roadworthy certificate. The seller has to provide this to the buyer. The inspector who certifies it is meant to check things like lights and brake lights. So if they've given you the certificate that it's roadworthy but it's not, I would go take it up with the inspector. Someone didn't do a proper job.

    But the law might vary in other states.

  • buyer beware. If you're not confident buying, take someone with you or have it assessed.

    I doubt you can take any of these back to get addressed.

  • Been here done this within a month of buying my last car op. Let me give you some advice, anything they do to fix it will be the cheapest shonkeyest way possible. Your better off paying to fix it right yourself and knowing its done right.

    Its $400, atleast its not they replaced the power steering pump with a second hand one then the secondhand line split 2 weeks later or any of the other bs that pushed me to my answer.

    If i see that owner of that shop on the sidewalk id aim for him 😂😂😂

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