This was posted 7 years 1 month 11 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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Willow 10L Jerry Can $13.50 at Supercheap Auto

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Looking at spending $5 credit and spot this one for sale at half-price. Works out even cheaper than other 5L model.
Diesel model also available

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  • +1

    There's a yellow diesel version for the same price:
    http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Willow-Jerry-Can-Di…

  • whats the difference between petrol and diesel version, other than colour ?

  • +6

    Before you use these check the lip of the spout-hole for unfinished plastic bits that you may need to cut off in order to get it to close properly, much better than finding that out after they are full and tied to the roof rack.

  • So you can just fill these up at any fuel station?

    • Yes… They like you to place them on the ground when you fill them, people claim it stops static building up…
      (some servos will get shitty if you fill them while they're sitting in your boot or the back of a ute)

      • +4

        some servos will get shitty

        OH&S

        • +1

          “some servos will get shitty”

          So what does the O and H stand for?

        • +1

          @jdr: Occupational Health & Safety.

          i.e. common sense

        • +1

          @jdr: Overly Hateful ? or Outwardly Hindering ? :)

        • +2

          @malouphix:

          “i.e. common sense”

          Thanks but I think you missed my meaning :).

        • +2

          @awbrooks:

          “Overly Hateful ? …….”

          Overly Hateful & Shitty ….. sounds possible :)

      • -3

        Please explain to me how static electricity could possibly be an issue with a PLASTIC jerry can?

        • https://www.artc.com.au/library/Safety-Alert_2009-09-01.pdf

          It's standard practice to place them on the ground when filling…

        • @FLICKIT: I'm well aware of the reason for doing so because I use metal jerry cans and have seen the static spark jump between the metal neck of the can and metal pourer nozzle of the pump handle when inserting it, but this absolutely does NOT apply when either then pump handle nozzle or the jerry can is made of plastic. I am yet to see an electrical spark jump from metal to plastic. Have you?

        • @Legoman:

          I'm no expert… I was just voicing issues someone may have when filling them, and advising how to avoid issues… Checkout chick servo attendants like to flex their muscles at times, lol…
          (I've had a servo attendant turn off a pump when I was filling a plastic container in the back of my ute, and I've had an attendant turn off the pump when I've been filling a flexible fuel bladder because he though I was filling a plastic bag with fuel, lol)

        • +1

          Clearly you did not do high school physics. When you rub a PLASTIC rod with a wool cloth, the rod charges negative…….

        • LMGTFY:

          Found this interesting video:

          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Rx4bMPtxYk

          7kV potential difference betweeen air and plastic bottle after 5 gallons.

          Static is probably building from the friction between the fluid going in to the plastic. (As rifter mentioned - much like rubbing plastic ruler in your hair). Airplane refuellers seem to be aware of this risk after reading a few forums that came up in the google search.

          If I had to guess, the fuel pump is grounded, and keeping the bottle on the ground helps remove/reduce the potential difference (or at least dissipate the static quickly???). I really wish the video concluded something.

          It's probably fair-game that the service attendants shut your pump off - they've been trained to, and you can't diss someone's procedures (if you respect any profession). I swear I've also seen a news report of a lady in Sydney that triggered a fire from fuelling whilst holding the jerry can off the ground… can't find the article though…

      • How long is fuel good for in these? I want to keep some fuel for my motorcycle

        • +2

          I generally only keep it for 6 months… I fill one this time of year to have on standby for my fire-fighting pump ready for summer, then in march-april I throw it in my WR250R or Triton ute and get a fresh batch to use in my chainsaws to get my firewood for winter… It "seems fine after 6 months in storage… Modern unleaded fuel doesn't seem to store as well as the old leaded fuel, but 6 months seems fine…

        • +1

          Get some fuel stabiliser and it will last for ages
          http://search.supercheapauto.com.au/search?w=Fuel%20stabilis…

      • +1

        place them on the ground when you fill them,

        Much better to spill fuel on the concrete, than in your car.

        The static thing is a bit silly, like the idea that mobile phones can cause a spark.

  • +1

    Fuel containers come in handy when used in unison with the 7/11 fuel app

    • +1

      Yeah, just pick up to max out my 112.c/l price lock

      • Which 7-11? Most places still around 130c/L for 2 weeks now?

        • +1

          was last week somewhere in WA, but only last a day. But right now you can lock in at 115.9 for 91 at Waverley Gardens VIC or even 111.9 for E10 at Yeronga QLD

        • @lgacb08:

          Thanks for the tip, I'm not too far away from Waverley Gardens so will go around! The only downside to the app is that it scans your immediate area and you can't get it to scan elsewhere…

        • +1

          @Craze: that's why you need an android 6.0 phone, just buy cheap sub $100 one, follow the guide on 7-eleven fuel thread and in a few months the saving is more than enough to cover the cost of the phone.

        • @lgacb08:

          Good suggestion- will have to add this onto the Xmas shopping list :)

    • Does't take long to pay off a can either when you buy 98.
      I paid 126, it's currently 159.
      So thet's $3.30 for a 10L can
      5 cycles and you're in profit territory.
      Less if you go for the 20L cans.

  • Hi, Is there any law in NSW about storing Jerry Can in the apartment or in Car (especially when the day is hot and car parked outside)? I know it is easier to store in car garage, but those who live in apartment, what are the laws?

    • +2

      Storing a Class 3 – Flammable Liquid in a plastic container in a car boot 24/7 it not advisable, even though the container does meet the standard AS/NZS 2906:2001.

      Storing in an apartment, not advisable, it's a living space, accidents happen.

      Safe to not store, if you're unable to store it safely.

    • Plastic containers are kinda porous, they seep fumes, some more than others… it's very noticeable if you leave them in a hot and enclosed space like a car boot…

      I got 5L and 10L BMW brand ones from Supercheap a few years back, they're quite thick compared to others and I don't really notice fumes from them (I carry them in my campervan)… Other thinner ones I have it's very noticeable…

      Another thing, if you're planning to carry them in your car boot or such you're better off getting the short dumpy ones, you can have them upright in your boot and they generally dont fall over..
      http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/SCA-Jerry-Can-Petro…
      No doubt they'll come up on sale at some stage…

      • I assume the BMW ones you refer to have no affiliation with the car manufacturer? I ask because I've just bought a nominally "BMW" jerry can made by Bellino, but at $280 it was a tad more expensive than this thing and only holds 9 litres too!

    • +3

      I travelled around AU with 2x20L upright ones behind each front passenger seat in my XV. (only two people in the car)
      It was up to 43deg hot out there. But in the car normally with A/C was less. I would keep the window slightly down in my car (I have weathershields) when parked and unattended.

      So far, I haven't blown up my car. Some people are bothered by the fumes, others not. I'm in the not camp.

      I like taking them when I go camping to save on fuel money. I reckon I may also help a fellow motorist who is stuck out in no-reception-land without fuel too.
      I have the cheapie Bunnings ones: https://www.bunnings.com.au/icon-plastics-jerry-fuel-can-and…

      • They appear to be the same as the thick-ish BMW branded ones Supercheap use to sell…

        The 10L one is $14.90:
        https://www.bunnings.com.au/icon-plastics-jerry-fuel-can-and…

        • IMHO HDPE cans are so dodgy. I would not be happy having one anywhere passengers are located for the simple reason they have to have pressure relief venting caps to prevent them blowing up like balloons when they get hot. Fine for emergency use like when you've just walked 5km to the nearest servo and have to buy something to carry the fuel back to your stranded car on the road verge, but these are not for even marginally extended periods of petrol storage. Get a proper metal can that doesn't vent at all for that. I definitely wouldn't be carrying one on a roof rack!

        • @Legoman:

          I have 10L, 20L, and 25L metal jerry cans but they're getting a bit old and rusty on the outside now so I just use them for diesel for my tractor.. I generally only use the plastic ones for petrol these days because they're cheap and I strap them on my motorbike at times, they're light, and cheap enough to throw away if I only need them for part of a trip..

          I get what you're saying though, you need to use them with care… I'm safety conscious and I have good mechanical, chemical, and safety aptitude, if I think something is slightly dodgy I'll find a better way to do it… . As mentioned in earlier posts, there's good (thick) and bad (thin) plastic fuel containers, you've gotta be sensible with them…

        • @FLICKIT: They are cheap, you can't argue that! Have you had a crack at sanding back, re-priming and repainting the metal ones? You can do that yourself. If you're really keen you could go soda-blasting+powder coat, but that's probably only an expense you'd go to for something custom fitted inside a spare wheel well or for historial accuracy in external mounts on something like a Willy's military WWII jeep.

        • @Legoman:

          To be honest I'm quite content with using decent plastic ones these days… I have a couple of thin plastic ones I don't use anymore because they puff up too much, but I'm quite happy with the thicker ones I have..

        • @Legoman:
          I don't think the Bunnings ones have the pressure release valve. I have seen mine balloon and compress with heat/cold. But nothing where I would be concerned with them popping.

          I certainly wouldn't use them for long term storage either, or on roof racks.

  • +3

    Saw this when collecting my $10 worth of free stuff at BCF
    http://www.bcf.com.au/Product/Pro-Quip-Plastic-Jerry-Can-Fue…
    $19.00 club price for 20L
    Not sure how brands of jerry cans compare

    • Not sure how brands of jerry cans compare

      It matters in this case. Willow is good, the unbranded ones I've seen are a pain to use. But if it is only used every couple of years you might put up with it.

    • Pro-quip are top quality too.

      • They have some problems with caps see here http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Pro-Quip-Jerry-Can-…
        They also don't mention anything about UV stabilised. I almost bought a couple but decided to go with Fuel safe cans. They used to be known as Rheem.I have one for about 10 years and it's in perfect condition.
        Not worth the risk going low quality with fuel cans.

  • Apparently petrol can only be stored for a few months and still be usable. At least this is what I’ve read in telation to the walking dead.

    • I think we are a few years in. Ow, and they're still happily getting around in cars with giant sheets of metal bolted to their sides.. she'll be sweet!

      • No, apparently it’s one of the biggest holes in the story. Not that I care. Just saying if someone is hoping to store petrol, they might want to look into it.

    • +1

      Myth. Petrol doesn't go 'off'. Diesel does though. Fungus grows inside diesel if not treated with a fungicide/biocide additive. The fungus then blocks the injectors = $$$ to fix.

      • +1

        I throw some diesel conditioner in my jerry cans after I fill them, it often sits for a year or more and it "seems" ok..

        Petrol "may" not go off but when it evaporates and dries up in carbs it leaves a nasty green glaze that blocks everything up… The old leaded petrol wasn't really an issue…

        Edit: something like this:
        http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Chemtech-Diesel-Pow…
        I had never noticed it has "biocide prevents & kills algae & bacteria in fuel lines & storage tanks" …. Learn something new every day :D

        • +1

          I used to work at a shipwrights looking after diesel boats. Boats are the ideal breeding ground for algae in fuel. Sitting unused long periods of time + wet, damp, humid environment + open/unsealed storage tank/delivery systems. The motor mechanic guys were constantly around the pens seeing to engines with fouled injectors for algae/fungus in the diesel. Not an issue on commercial vessels being used day-in day-out, but the pleasure boats that only get used once a month (if that) = problems.

      • +2

        I discovered a jerry full of unleaded I bought when it was 66c per litre. No idea when it was, maybe 15 years. Put it in a turbo jetski. Didn't miss a beat.

        As for plastic jerries. When u buy one put the lid on and stand on it to test for leaks. However, they always stink on hot days. Metal are FAR superior… Even after 15 years!

      • Haha, next time some is going on about the plot hole, I'll look it up and correct them. Thank you.

      • As someone who at one point restored a car that had been sitting idle for 8-years with half a tank of gas in it and pulled the fuel pump to clean the gum out of the tank before it clogged up the pump, lines, or injectors as it had others cars in the same situation, I can affirm that it is not a myth.

        https://www.livescience.com/58117-does-gasoline-go-bad.html

        "As some of the hydrocarbons in the gasoline evaporate, other hydrocarbons react with the oxygen in the air, Speight said. The gasoline then begins to form solids called gum.

        "[O]nce [the bad gasoline] gets into the pipeline, that gum may separate out … and maybe [it will] not block the gas line fully, but maybe [it will] start to block it,"

        I had another car that had always run flawlessly, but after sitting for a year and a half with no stabaliser in the fuel had injector issues until they were pulled and ultrasonically cleaned.

        • +1

          You're talking about an unsealed system open to contamination. The fuel is being affected by outside influences beyond simple temperature changes. That's not the case with fuel held in jerry cans and particularly sealed metal ones with wedge/clamp flip lids as opposed to plastic screw cap ones with pressure relief valves.

      • http://liquidintelligence.com.au/
        FYI :)
        In particular those that have commented below.
        Their products work, I've track tested them!

  • Yep have one of these and the normal SCA one. Big difference between two but i guess if you're gonna only use it once every 2 years it won't matter as much. I'm on E85 and have the Willow 20L ones though am thinking of getting one of those big barrels for long storage.

  • I have a couple of these. Good quality but I wish they had a vent hole like the pro quip ones.

  • Bought a few with these even when I have emptied the container why does the smell come from as it is air sealed? Cause my entire car stinks.

    • It only takes a tiny amount of fuel left in the container to produce fumes, and the plastic is porous, the fumes seep through it…

  • Thanks then would metal jerry cans work better?

    • Yes :)

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