Help Me Pick (OzBargain) My Dad's Next Car

My dad is looking to buy a new car in the next couple of months, since I've moved out and taken our formerly shared car with me.

He initially put forward two options: a Golf or a Tiguan (I know they're not exactly comparable, which opens up the field a lot).
His budget covers the cost of a base model Tiguan auto (~$40k).

Background: We live in WA.
My dad is approaching 70 years old, and has driven cars ranging from a Daihatsu Charade to the last gen Honda CR-V. I don't think he'll have a problem driving smaller cars (like the Golf), but a higher ride height and more room would also be welcome (Tiguan).

Given his budget and wide scope of vehicle types, I came up with a shortlist of potential options for him to pick from. I'd like everyone's advice on the "best" choice in each category and a good price I could negotiate for it.
He would like to go with a brand new car, though I think he may be open to demo models.

Caveats: no Korean cars, Holden, Ford, Nissan, or Toyota. He's not open to the idea, and neither am I.
I'm also looking into cars with a bit more zip (a turbo), since my dad (and I) complained that the last gen CR-V my mum drives basically has a 0-100 time of several days.

Small cars
Model Rough RRP
Suzuki Swift GLX Turbo $23.5k
VW Golf 110TSI $27k
"Medium" cars
Model Rough RRP
Suzuki S-Cross Turbo $27.5k
Mazda 3 Maxx $28k
Mazda CX-3 Maxx $28k
Honda Civic VTi-L Turbo $31.5k
Subaru XV 2.0i-L $34.5k
Mazda CX-5 Maxx $35k
VW Tiguan 110TSI Trendline $40k

italicised entries are ones I'm not personally keen on

"Larger" cars
Model Rough RRP
Suzuki Vitara S Turbo 2WD $30.5k
Honda CR-V VTi 2WD $31.5k

Update 1:
Spoke to my dad today, told him VWs are expensive to buy/service, and are difficult to resell outside warranty period. No argument from him there.

My suggestions to him based on feedback from here were either a Vitara AWD or a Camry (Atara Hybrid). He wasn't keen on either of them - he said he didn't like either of them, and when pressed for reasons, he said he'd rather not be seen in them.
I suggested getting a really dark tint if that's what he's concerned about.

He has picked up a brochure for a CR-V, but on looking up its power to mass (unimpressive 1.5T in a ~1800kg car), was much less keen.

He did toy with the idea of a Civic (I pushed for him to go for the turbo model), but nothing conclusive there.

He said he has been to a VW dealership and asked about the driveaway price of a Tiguan and was quoted about $36-38k (can't remember what he said exactly).

We did toss up the idea of an i30 briefly (the SR model), but again, nothing conclusive (the engine's specs aren't as good as the Japanese ones we've seen thus far in terms of fuel consumption). There's also the issue of the dual dry clutch (I'm nervous given this seems to be one of Hyundai's first forays into the technology and some of the existing issues they've had with it).

Have not mentioned Subaru or Mazda options yet, but did briefly touch on the CX-5.

He also said he's happy to push back his purchase date to 6 months (from 2).

Comments

      • +1

        bullshit

        • @Spackbace: not even close

        • -2

          @Burnertoasty:

          Yep 1 second is miles away… Lol give it a break.

        • +1

          @Spackbace: yes, in 0-100kmh 1 second is an eternity. A 7.5 second car is reasonably nippy. An 8.5 second car is slow as a snail. I really can't believe with the BS you constantly speak that you sell cars for a living. Actually, yes I can.

        • @Burnertoasty:

          Coming from someone who recommends VW? Are you kidding me? Don't act like you know cars and recommend a brand that people get out of when the warranty expires, and for good reason!

          You know what a good up-sell is with a VW? An extended warranty!

          Now go away, I can hear your VW depreciating all the way from here.

        • -2

          @Spackbace: Such ignorance mixed with arrogance. No wonder you work at the bottom end of the automotive industry.

        • @Burnertoasty:

          Ignorance? Nope have seen plenty of VWs traded, sold on the lot etc.

          I have a greater exposure to varied makes/models than you even dream you have.

          But that's fine keep up with the attacks, it's all you have when you don't have an argument.

        • @Spackbace: Fella, you just said 0-100kmh in 8.5 (and it's actually 9.5) is basiclaly 0-100 in 7.5. Lies like that probably work when you are trying to offload a piece of crap to an unsuspecting couple of suckers, but if you're making the effort to give advise, you need to base it on reality and fact.

        • @Burnertoasty:
          Ugh, mummy, daddy please stop!

          OP should buy a Toyota or Kia based on reliability, warranty and servicing costs. I'd sniff out the last of the locally made Camry if they're still around.

          The Tiguan/Kodiak are really just jacked-up Golfs. If they must, a manual is the only choice.

        • @Burnertoasty:

          Read the link I posted, in real-world they found it to be in the mid-8s…hence why I posted the link

          Not that anyone asks 0-100 time when buying a car… Like no one. Regardless of 3cyl or 8cyl, no one cares, no one is doing traffic light grand prixs.

        • @USB-V: Only a fool would buy a manual. You could base that in resale alone, but seriosuly, who wants a small SUV with a manual? It's fine for a sports car, not for a car that is going to sit in traffic most of its life.

          It seems you are basing your comment on the old VW 7 speed dry clutch reliability issues. The issues that never plagued the wet clutch 6 speed or the current line up.

        • @Spackbace:

          Real world BS. It's pretty easy (and common) to turn up the boost on a press car. I read the article, i saw through the BS.

          You're delusional if you think people who buy performance cars (for example a V8), don't care about the performance (i.e. 0-100kmh). That being said you sell sub 2 litre 4 cylinder cars, so performance really isn't your forte.

        • +1

          @Burnertoasty:

          That being said you sell sub 2 litre 4 cylinder cars, so performance really isn't your forte.

          I sell whatever the hell I want. From supercharged 6.2s to WRXs to Evos to god knows what else. I've seen/sat in/driven more cars than you will in your lifetime.

          And once again, no one asks 0-100 times. It's such a wanky figure and everyone knows that.

          If you know your cars rated 0-100 figure, I can put money on the fact that you've never taken it down the 1/4 or put it round a track.

          Though I doubt you'd know what its like to drive on either of those, driving a VW and all. Just drive it to and from the bowling club do we?

        • @Spackbace: You do realise that VW is the second largest producer of cars on the planet, right? You realise their range goes from $15k to $150k (and when they release the Atreon, much higher).

          I'm sorry, I didn't realise you were a used car salesman, I think my weakness is I always assume the best in people.

        • @Burnertoasty:

          Right, and you drive a $150k VW? We all know you don't, so my statement stands.

          You don't drive a performance car so don't act like you do. You also don't drive your "mum's taxi" fast enough that there would be any chance of the COG causing the car to lift wheels, even if it was a 2WD, so again stop pretending you do.

          You drive a car that would fit in at the school car park, so don't make suggestions on best handling or performance, coz you bought your car to sit on the speed limit and its just 1 step before you retire.

          Leave the car suggestions to people who actually know and care about cars.

        • @Spackbace: I don't drive a VW buddy.

          And why would the COG lift the wheels? That sentence doesn't even make sense. You really don't understand car dynamics.

          You say I bought my car to sit at the speed limit wiht a negative connotation; are you suggesting that I break the law and speed?

        • @Burnertoasty:

          Movement of the COG affects the balance of the car, or do you need a year 8 physics lesson now?

          And since you didn't defend the fact that you've never taken your car down the track or the 1/4, you've proven my point nicely.

          Now are you done? Or do you feel the need to resort to more insults of my profession without stating your own?

          It's funny how you feel the need to attack me whilst hiding in the corner, pretty bloody cowardly don't you think?

          So what do you do for work that you feel it's worthy of being above others?

        • @Spackbace: The movement of the COG? In a car? how do you do that? Fill the boot with medicine balls and put the seats down? Don't embarrass yourself.

          My profession has nothing to do with cars, which makes the fact that I'm schooling you in them even more embarrassing.

          I ignored your 1/4 comment because it had no point. But If you must know, the fastest car I have driven was a Mclaren 650S down a runway and on a racetrack.

        • +2

          @Burnertoasty:

          You do realise that VW is the second largest producer of cars on the planet, right?

          That's right. Second place. We all know which brand is number one.

        • @Burnertoasty:

          Atreon

          Shouldn't it be the phaeton or is the atreon a different vehicle?

          Vw does makes some interesting vehicles and many of them are unaffordable for 99% of people.
          https://successstory.com/spendit/most-expensive-volkswagen-c…

        • @whooah1979:
          Tata?

        • +2

          @Burnertoasty:

          If you had done an actual unrestricted track day with McLaren, then you would know the basics of COG here's a way to calculate without medicine balls (because this discussion is actually getting embarrassing), and shows the effect of lateral g's which since you asked how to do it here's the basics that prove shifting COG.

          When a car is cornering at speed, the car's weight transfers from the inside wheel to the outside wheel. The rate of change is proportional to the height of center of gravity (CG), the lateral acceleration ( in g ) and inversely proportional to the track width. As this :

          Weight transfer = ( Lateral acceleration x Weight x Height of CG ) / Track width

          So during that if you were allowed to drive and weren't just a passenger at best you would have been taught something along the lines of this

          Driving at speed cornering at 0.85 g. Assuming its track width is 1600 mm, height of CG is 500 mm vehicle load in a neutral state is for example is say 1250 kg, then calculate the weight transfer (it's 332 kg. just to save time with a perfect 50 / 50 weight distribution F-R so each inside wheel takes 146.5 kg while the outside 478.5 kg. which is the very definition of shifting centre of gravity

          so you can use this to work out how much further you need to push a car to lift a wheel

          FYI i've driven more than just that McLaren with every driver aid turned off and i wouldn't hand the keys over to someone who doesn't understand the principals of driving beyond mashing the accelerator to the floor in a straight line.

          You would also know the 0-100 speed depends on numerous factors and very rarely aligns to what Car Advice told you it was.

        • @Toons:

          i wouldn't hand the keys over to someone who doesn't understand the principals of driving beyond mashing the accelerator to the floor in a straight line

          You've just described most Perth drivers.

        • @psyren89: probably more accurately most in the country

          So we won't go into body roll another factor that shifts COG or the fact that it's normally a secondary factor that rolls a car

          To tip a car at speed you have to break the 50% mark of weight distribution but the car tires are designed to give first so rather than rolling you would lose traction or begin a powered drift.

          so the combination of a couple of these will help tip which since it's better understood manufacturers don't want to be known as rollers are adjusting the stance of a car to compensate, because most drivers generally don't compensate their driving to suit.

        • @Burnertoasty: People who buy performance cars are looking for just that "performance" something that can make it round a track without having cooked the brakes or handles like a woolies shopping trolly, you seem to be confusing performance with dragsters but if you want a car that doesn't need a parachute to stop.

          lets take one of those non performing 4 cylinders

          Subaru WRX STI Type RA NBR

          Power 2.0-liter flat-four over 600 hp with an 8500-rpm redline

          Performance took the Nurburgring in 6:57.5s equalled by Porsche 918 Spyder (Weissach Package) a $960,000 car

          To beat that it took this

          Lamborghini Huracan Performante

          Power 5.2-litre V10 631 at 8000 rpm redline

          Performance took the Nurburgring in 6:52.01s.

          so all this bluster again is just embarrassing i think a look in the dictionary is in order.

  • So you need the vehicle to be no more than $39,990 driveaway in WA, correct? After extras such as front sensors (front obstruction warnings) and after haggling and getting a 10%-15% discount with whatever that you decide to buy

    Do keep in mind with a CVT gearbox, even though it is the best at engine revs for power delivery output of the current auto options (sports/dual-clutch/CVT/other), after a few years at the 50,000km - 55,000km servicing you will have a very expensive servicing that requires a 6L to 7L lubricating oil refill and each litre costs something like $200-$225 per litre currently. Then a few years after at 95,000km - 100,000km that's when the metal belt inside it will need to be fully replaced for about $1,500-$2,000 and another 6L-7L lubricating oil refill that will cost an additional $1,400 or there abouts

    So if you have $39,990 to spend and want a CVT then best to spend about $34,990 on the vehicle and keep that extra $5,000 in a day to day bank account for the CVT gearbox servicing that will come up at 50,000km and then 100,000km

    • -1

      CVT isn't power efficient. It is used to cut production cost. Don't buy into the salesman pitch, simple wiki/Google will do.

      A dual clutch also has transmission fluid that needs to be changed and will also cost a lot.
      No need to change belts, and marginally cheaper overall but I wouldn't call that the CVT deal breaker.

      I would call the CVT a deal breaker because the response degradation is horrible. CVT relies on precision that cannot be reliably achieved in an everyday vehicle. Metal belts stretch and the the pulleys have to be calibrated to maintain tension and accommodate for both "gear" change and slack.

      Where the belt sits on the pulley's radius also has to be precisely managed, a task that becomes harder if slack is not managed and general give of parts over time. Then there's thermal expansion… But something all machines suffer but some are affected more than others.

    • I assume this is based on a German car like a VW Golf? As Gearbox service at Nissan is like a extra 400 bucks

    • CVT fluid costs $55.60 for 4l at SuperCheap.

      http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Penrite-CVT-Fluid-V…

    • not calling you out on this, but I've been in the market for a new car for a while now
      do you have any (reputable) sources to back you up on this?

  • I would get the Vitara based on combination of cost and what you get at that point

  • +2
  • -1

    I'd look at BMW X1. much better value than a VW

  • +9

    Mate, your dad needs to buy 80k car. It's a high yield investment.

    • +4

      Unfortunately, his budget is half that, with the added bonus of not having anyone to impress.

    • +2

      came to see this comment, wasnt disappointed :)

  • If he wants something quick a 21014 used Audi TT. Dealer Used and Audi Certified. 44K though.
    https://carsales.mobi/cars/details/Audi-TT-2014/OAG-AD-14910…

  • If it were me choosing from that list i'd get the VW pair. They win all the awards for good reason. They have the best combination of economy, performance, handling, interior flair and safety. The main downside is the low speed hesitation of the dsg, but if he's going for manual then all good.

    Also have a look at the skoda Octavia. Same chassis / drivetrain as the golf, similar features, cheaper and with 5 yr warranty, and much bigger. Poor resale though. (VW owns skoda)

    However, that's for me- and this is for your father who is likely retired, and could be his last car (if he's the type to drive them for a decade-not trying to be morbid but merely practical).

    At that age, I'm assuming the high cost of repairs, particularly out of warranty, may be a huge issue.

    Whilst I drive a VAG, I would not recommend one out of warranty. They are too complex and when things go wrong they cost a bomb. Even simple factory services can cost close to 2k, and that's without unplanned consumables.

    I would seriously have a look at three kias-they actually did really well in the comparisons and have a 7 year warranty to boot.

    But if you can't get over the place of manufacture, then the Mazda duo are hard to beat. Good resale, good handling, reliable, decent drive train, economy and safety-just a little exxie.

    If he is still set on a vw, pay for the extended warranty.

    • +1

      You mean dealer servicing. Your car doesn't get sent back to factory.

      VW dealer servicing is a major rip off. Go to a local independent mechanic that specialises in VAG vehicles.

      Extended warranty is only worth it if you are buying the dry clutch models. Not saying the other models have no other faults but it is a struggle getting VW to the party when smaller things start playing up.

    • just a little exxie

      What do you mean by this?

  • Surprised John Hughes hasn't popped in, so prolific was he.

  • Does he have any illnesses or any likely illnesses.

    Does he have hobbies and interests.

    Does he babysit?

    What's his average monthly KM.

    Let's say he is on dialysis. This makes the number of Ks significantly higher and fuel economy becomes important. If he has a double hip replacement, he would like something higher up.

    • Does he have any illnesses or any likely illnesses

      No.

      Does he have hobbies and interests

      None that require a car.

      Does he babysit

      No.

      What's his average monthly KM

      When my dad and I shared a car, we'd average less than 10000km a year. On his own, he'd probably do just over half that.

      • -1

        If it is the only car, or the bigger more utility car between him and your mother, I'd be inclined to get something more versatile.

        In that case, I suggest the CX5 Maxx and a towbar. This will allow him to do the occasional Bunnings run or transport something larger from the shops without relying on someone else.

        The base model Tiguan is a 1.4l turbo. It feels laboured pulling a 1.25ton Golf chassis so I cannot imagine an extra couple hundred kilos is gonna make matters better. Adding a tow load to it would just be unpleasant.

        Otherwise, the Golf Comfortline is pretty good bang for buck.

        The most important thing to remember when test driving is that no dealership is going to put a dodgy car as a demo. Hardly anything goes wrong with a new car so it's a poor representation of a long term investment.

        • +1

          He can get a Tuguan 132TSI for the money. You are delusional if you think a naturally aspirated CX5 has better performance than a forced induction 1.4. My sister has a Golf TSI with the 1.4 and it doesn't feel laboured at all. It's surprisingly spritley, it spins it wheels in the first row gears easily and is almost always on boost.

        • -1

          @Burnertoasty:

          You are delusional if you think a naturally aspirated CX5 has better performance than a forced induction 1.4.

          http://www.caradvice.com.au/compare-specs/v6916i-volkswagen-…

          Pwr:Wgt Ratio 75.9W/kg Pwr:Wgt Ratio 77.3W/kg

        • +1

          @whooah1979:

          A difference of 1.4W/kg is not something to brag about.

          Max. Torque
          250Nm @ 1500rpm (Tiguan)
          200Nm @ 4000rpm (CX-5)

          That is.

        • @psyren89:

          Not bragging, but rather linking caradvices's claim that a cx 5 does have a higher power-to-weight than a 1.4 turbo.

        • +1

          @whooah1979:
          Spec sheets are only useful as an indicator.

          I did get my dad the golf 1.4 and I have driven it. The forced induction requires the turbo to spool up. That lag on a 1.4l is considerable and the torque application is sudden, hence why the wheel spin.

        • @psyren89: 100%. You don't need their advice son, you know what you're looking for.

        • @tshow: What? No it's not. The 1.4T has almost no turbo lag. You need to get your car serviced. I haven't driven a manual with that engine, but the DSG connected to that engine is astoundingly almost always on boost. It spins its wheels from just above idle.

        • @Burnertoasty:
          I have two samples of the 1.4TSI and one 1.4TFSI. Both factory boost settings. Both DQ200 gear boxes.

          All of them display considerable turbo lag and wheel spin.

          Even turbo 911s with a PDK suffer turbo lag, what more a 1.4 running a relatively high boost against a dry clutch.

          Naturally aspirated is always a better drive and this is coming from someone whose cars are all turbo.

        • @tshow:Really????

          Naturally aspirated is always a better drive and this is coming from someone whose cars are all turbo.

          Sounds like you keep buying the wrong car?? but each to their own and i won't knock you're preference.

          The newer higher powered engines although not completely eliminated are getting towards barely noticeable.

          The new merc turbo charged engine for next year i think? has a completely linear output.

          Even turbo 911s with a PDK suffer turbo lag,

          hmmm minimal at best and unless your a track driver i think your statement about that is from a car magazine

          Check out Dynamic boost

        • @Toons:
          I am a hobbyist track driver. Yes I have driven the 917 Turbo PDK (stock) on track. Brown pants when turbo kicked when holding speed on uphill turns.

          I keep buying the wrong car because a turbo car has better power/$ and weight distribution for a front engine vehicle (and that's all I can afford to flog for the time being).

        • @tshow: Sorry wasn't having a dig as such, more to point the 911's have changed to what you may have been used to driving, yes i agree they can be a handful especially if your driving something different all week, I'm a bit more concerned when your flying over a reverse camber corner hoping that it's going to stick.

          (perhaps i should have added ( or prior to 2015/16 ) to the above statement.

          Have you considered a older cayman they are really good on a track with minimal setup and much less cost than a 911

          But without knowing budget and what you actually do like to drive it's another debate that will just poke the bears

          Can i just assume the 917 was a typo

        • @Toons:
          997. Haha. I wished it was a 917.

          I have considered a Cayman but the parts and peer support is much smaller than the 911. Really doesn't have the same heritage and support.

          Considered a 996 in manual when they were attainable for 60k, but prices have surged after the 996 failures were isolated to the non GT and turbo cars (ie carrera.)

          No coin to spend on cars now but I would consider 991 GT3 with CC brakes or the RS. The weight distribution and handling is amazing (judging by how well I get lapped). My car outputs close to the same power… But nose heavy and that turbo doesn't play nice on hot days.

        • @tshow: yeah had me questioning your reasoning again not to mention a 917 with PDK

          The cayman has got huge support through Europe i thought the same thing too until i saw them racing and obviously setting some Mad times and destroying other cars i thought would have been better

        • @Toons:
          It has in Europe where there is a larger group of motoring enthusiast. In Australia, the cost of a Cayman islands prohibitive to most and those who can afford a Cayman would much rather buy a 911.

          RUF has done an amazing job maximizing the Cayman's chassis and I have thought about doing one up with inspiration from the CTR3 but the cost of bringing those parts into the country and having an automotive engineer sign off on the mods was prohibitive.

  • Second hand Lexus Rx350 or the like? Most reliable car brand in the world and dripping with luxury.

  • +2

    I'd stay right away from anything VW, servicing costs are too high, reliability is very questionable, they only have a three year warranty and parts cost an absolute fortune.

    I know you said no Korean cars, but the Koreans have really stepped up their game in the last few years. They're producing some great cars that are good value for money, they offer long warranties (Kia 7 year and Hyundai 5 years), servicing prices are reasonable and they're proving to be quite reliable.

    If you'd like to get your dad into an suv type car, then I'd seriously be considering the new Hyundai Kona, which is landing in September. It's based on the new i30 platform so is similar in size to the the Mazda CX-3, but has a larger cabin. Hyundai are offering it with a 1.6 turbo mated to a 7-speed dual clutch auto with 4wd, which has a dual-arm multi-link rear suspension setup, while the Mazda is still running a torsion beam.

    My mate who works for Wheels magazine recently went to Seoul to check it out, he said it's a very good thing.

    Check out his video below.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bf9JhPM8iws&t=23s

  • +13

    Having managed Vehicle Dealerships for most of my working life, I thought I might throw my opinion in here.
    As this will be your Dads last car, my first thought is buy whatever makes him happy, let it be an emotional decision rather than the rational one you are trying to turn it into.
    Resale is irrelevant as the car will eventually be inherited . All cars depreciate, regardless of brand, so this should not be a defining factor.
    As others have mentioned the day the warranty expires on a VW is the day you sell it.While other manufacturers and importers may have unwritten goodwill policies, providing you service within the network, VW dont , I should know I managed 2 VW Dealerships in Sydney.
    By not considering Korean cars you are shooting yourself in the foot. VFACTS figures show that Kia and Hyundai registrations have overtaken all but Toyota, and the 7 year Kia Warranty is unbeatable.
    At the risk of repeating myself, dont over analyse the decision, just buy whatever takes his fancy within his budget.

    • As this will be your Dads last car, my first thought is buy whatever makes him happy, let it be an emotional decision rather than the rational one you are trying to turn it into.

      Absolutely agree with this.

      Buy the car your dad wants to buy, not what you (or anyone else on Ozbargain) thinks is rational, and not necessarily what you would want to buy.

      ps. great first comment, Klevakiwi

    • I agree.

      We let my elderly grandfather choose his own car at that age, he chose a Camry (LOL). It worked out well as he was no longer such a great driver…

  • if you have a 40k budget just go for the GTI, it's a no brainer.

  • If you can go slightly above $40K I'd highly recommend a Subaru Forester XT Premium. You should be able to get a recent demo or maybe 1 year old at that price. It is one of the few vehicles with eyesight that has an anti collision camera built into the car so in the event that he gets tired driving it will assist in slowing down the car. Subarus are incredibly reliable. I've had mine for 20 years now. The turbos will give him a smile as they're very torquey and the height of the forester provides good viewing over other cars. Also note the AWD system is a true AWD system and not the on demand rubbish of the CRV or Tiguan. These cars have an AWD system that kicks in only when it senses slippage which can be too late. The Subarus are full time AWD systems that continuously monitor the road for traction issues and adjust in real time, no delays. This might seem trivial however if the road is really wet and slippery then you'll notice the difference in the ability to control the car in an emergency and to be able to stop at a shorter distance.

    XT Premium has all the bells and whistles he'll want including leather, sunroof, DVD player, isn't too high that he needs a ladder to get in, dual zone aircon, power everything, bum warming seats, rear vision camera,and enough room to pick up the grandkids and pets or take some luggage for a weekend getaway.

    • sunroof

      A sunroof that doesn't automatically close >:(

    • Why do all Subaru drivers come with a massive chip on their shoulder?

      • Ask the ones who downvoted my earlier post.

  • +1

    dont put to much faith in redbook for pricing in Perth,

  • Toyota C-HR.

  • +1

    Honda HRV. Now comes with 5yr Warranty. 25K mark.

  • I would go for Mazda or Subaru. My stake would be at cx5 here.

  • +1

    And if still confused, remember:

    M- Miata
    I- Is
    A-Always
    T- The
    A- Answer.

    • +1

      It's like a motorcycle except you're sitting in the helmet with two extra wheels.

      Fun.

  • +1

    When in doubt, buy the one that's famous for being reliable.

    • +1

      But OP said no Toyota

      😃

    • Hybrid Camry would make him smile but it seems the VW misery is the desire :-)
      Must like surprises …

      • I eyeballed the Camry Atara Hybrid. Seems alright. I don't know if he'd be sold on a family sedan, though.

  • -1

    Kia Stinker
    Hyundai High-Class Elite Scholar of Highest Order
    Mazda 3.14159
    Honda Divine Drive

    Your pick…

  • Is the Tiguan the same small size as your ones listed as large?

    Go and see Spacebase, he'll give you a deal.
    I think a taller vehicle and not a golf car, going by my dad that's 80, just easy of hopping in and out.

    • Where does spackbace work?

      • he's in the car industry in WA.

  • buy Subaru XV

    • I'd just get the Impreza. Exactly the same engine, interior and a few grand cheaper. In fact subaru has a bigger boot than XV

  • Subaru WRX man… dat twin scroll turbo

  • McLaren MP4-12C

  • Let me save you time.

    Golf Gti in DSG. Run out model. He'll be happy.

  • Golf and Tiguan are both sharing the same engine / transmission. Its only a decision of looks and practicality.
    You could look at Skoda as well. I have had couple of skoda's for a while now. I never had any issue with them. But parts are expensive. Once had to replace a bumper and cost was quite high.

  • Golf GTI for $45k.. that will make you move back in and start sharing the car again…. tbh at age they they need SUV for easy access… my dad was in the same dilema and close to 70 and we bought him Fors kuga as it was nice inside and turbocharged engine was very zippy… outside looks is another story but he didn't care

    So either Tiguan or turbocharged tuscon

  • The answer is always Miata!

    (yeah, I've spent too much time on Youtube).

  • +1

    Considered the Honda Jazz?

    Cheap purchase price, it has some zip, great driver visibility, small for easy parking, flexible with storage.

    • +1

      Still a better suggestion than the VWs 😂

  • Mazda 3 SP25 GT or Astina.

    I got an SP25 auto out the door for $26.5k and it is better than every Golf up to the GTi.

    Ride quality is excellent, the interior feels and looks better than the Golf and it is very zippy with the 2.5L engine.

    The CX-3 is a higher driving position, but is based on the Mazda 2 and as a tall chap I found the viewing angles were obstructed a lot by the side pillars.

    Couldn't recommend the 3 SP25 any more, I am very happy.

  • Haven't read the replies, but given I drive one, I'd suggest the Skoda Superb. I have the top of the line but even the base model is 162kw. An example which is over budget but is brand new with comfort and tech packs, demos and less kit are easily in budget:
    https://carsales.mobi/cars/details/SKODA-Superb-2016/OAG-AD-…

  • I bought a new Skoda Octavia last year with tech pack, leather seats and all that added for $40k drive away with capped servicing for 6 years. It's great and has heappppppsssssss of boot space! Ps. It uses Volkswagen parts and is cheaper - Uses GTI engine and is cheaper than a GTI golf!

  • The Dacia Sandero comes highly recommended. My work here is done…

  • How about the Renault Captur? Built in the EU, reasonable servicing costs. Small but still easy to get in and out of for older folks. Not the fastest car out there (which would be a plus for older drivers).

Login or Join to leave a comment