Comes with built in amp,wiring kit and remote bass level controller for $76 I think it's a bargain
Fusion 10" 750W Active Wedge Subwoofer
$76 EA
Save $173 / 65%
Starts Thu, 19 Jan. 2017 - Ends Sun, 29 Jan. 2017
46cm x 34cm x 35cm (LxHxD). Remote Bass level controller. (EN-AB1102)
Two doofs for stereo, one in the seat and one in the boot. :)
oh a water doofer ayy
how does it sound?
$79 worth of sound, IMO will sound like shit but for the price at least you will get a little ooomf
No doubt it'll sound better than the basic stock setups it's likely to be used in.
Sounds hectic, bro!
Sounds fully sick cuz, got them fitted in my lowered wrx brah, drops panties everywhere
How many in your collection now?
Panties? Or subwoofers?
i cant be the only one that reads this line with a Lebanese accent.
LOL, I just choked on my kebab.
Careful, the PC crowd will report you
Swear to god uleh the bass was so loud it blew my boot lid off brahhh
At that price point it will probably be "boomy" enough but the port might not be perfectly tuned and distort a little. Basically it'd be fine for most entry users aka the kind of people that enjoy turtle beach or the older beats by dre (haven't heard any recent models so can't compare them) only difference being these aren't as dramatically overpriced by the looks of it.
Might not be…if any thought has gone into the acoustic design of this I'll be amazed, but hey the price!
like Beats by Dre Dre off steriods
Good enough for the average listener. Audio lovers will beg to differ.
Audiophiles
Who will even differ on what they are to be called
I bought it, it sounds great.
Keep in mind this is coming from someone who has never had a sub in his car before.
any idea how much installation would be?
If you don't just let it float around in the boot, you're doing it wrong.
is there where the doof'doof' comes from?
Gotta hit them speed bumps….hard
Partly, the chopped springs in the Commy also help.
About - $150 bit of an educated guess. The Mobile guys tend to be cheeper
I'd hazard a guess that you could probably find a 'mate' who would do it for beer or something on a lazy Sunday afternoon.
Otherwise just ask Repco, JB Hifi, Strathfield Car Radios, etc for a quote - probably somewhere between $50 and $100. Wouldn't be a hard exercise and without generalising too much, the target market for this type of subwoofer/amp combo is unlikely to be looking for a stock-look installation (that's when car ICE installations cost alot).
More than the sub amp for sure.
Best to buy the cable kit, YouTube video. I advise you have some electrical knowledge tho, and take the fuse out as soon as you get kit then start installation
So, if I've got a stereo with red/white RCA out, and 4 speakers currently in the car, do I need anything more than what this comes with to wire everything up? Power comes through my firewall?
An 8 guage positive wire through the firewall (with a fuse in series, Jaycar can help you select one) and a short negative wire attached to the car body. With the RCA outs, you are half way there
Hey mate,
I'll try help you out as best I can.
Is the RCA out on the headunit already being used? If not that should be able to go straight into this sub/amp combo.
Here is the manual for it.
As you can see, it has an RCA in, judging by the diagram.
Edit: And as above, you need to power the amplifier. :)
Thank for the help, guys! The RCA isn't being used, no! Fantastic
The necessary power cables don't come with the package, then?
How does it work filtering the frequencies so the low end doesn't come out of the front speakers anymore?
Cheers - really appreciate it
How does it work filtering the frequencies so the low end doesn't come out of the front speakers anymore?
I don't think it does - it's just got an adjustable Low Pass Filter, so you can set what frequencies the sub kicks in. I guess you'd set it for whatever frequency your regular speakers start to drop off.
Nothing comes with wiring unless you buy a package
You set bass or low end volume low in your headunit. This will make the front speakers only play high and mid. Normally the RCA out will pass through the whole spectrum so the sub that takes the RCA in can still receives the full spectrum and filter pass on the low in the internal circuit.
But some headunit's RCA out is affected by the frequency setting of the headunit.
I bought it and installed it today, all the cables you'll need are already included in the box (plus a little extra).
Looks like you can just splice into the speaker output if needed.
can confirm this gives a pretty mad boot rattle!
Any good for home use? E.g. Provide oomph for a tinny tv set
Not on it's own, no.
You'll just have a tinny tv set with booming bass.
Save your cash and invest in a proper sound system, or speaker setup.
I have Q Acoustic BT3 speakers with a built in amp ($450 for a pair). Great speakers and they are easy to setup.
Don't be fooled by the 750W rating. This is the PEAK rating, not the RMS rating.
RMS rating, or continous rating, is the Wattage that you should look. This sub is more like a 300W or less subwoofer.
Still a good price.
Doesn't specifically say but the 15A fuse kinda indicates 150W RMS +/-
Oh I didn't see the fuse rating…That is a low powered subwoofer…
750W PMPO ;)
Peak power is bs, always go buy RMS even then if its not a reputable brand the rms is always exaggerated.
Unless you buying something of quality like jl audio they tend to underrate the rms
Definitely agree.
I have a 600W RMS 12" Hertz Subwoofer in my car (with speakers and amps), and let me tell you, you can't put a price on good quality car audio. :)
Well, you can, and it's usually a high price at that lol
Same here I'm running a jl 12w6 in my hatch, high price sub that retails just under 1k.
But worth every penny.
This fusion sub compared to our gear will sound about as loud as a mid range driver. Lol
Than again for $79 I must say I would buy a shitter like this for the misses car to hear a little bass
I got given an older model of this for my Mitsubishi 380 and the bass obviously isn't as clean, deep or punchy as my previous Clarion setup that cost $1000-odd - but it's respectable enough to add to complement your stock speakers - especially for $76.
As muffled as a casette tape with Dolby NR turned on?
Of course its muffled - its a sub!
Probably get by with it for home theatre (movies). Wouldn't go down this path for music.
I bought a Cadence setup for a little more and that shook the crapper out of my EF falcon
Was a great setup with an External AMP and Sub
Was very happy with the Cadence gear for the $$$
Really, what did it shake?
the whole car to be honest, sub 100hz frequencies sounded awesome with bass tests
these days I don't care a great deal about bass comps but it was a kick ass system for under 500 bucks total
People still playing bass testers?
For tuning of sound and crossover matching why wouldn't you use a bass tester
I'm an audiophile and like my music to be properly tuned so I can hear all facets and frequencies
Nothing worse than a crappy stereo with all the music drowned out by a huge sub which makes the treble and mid sound like mud
Im happy just using simple test tones.
Your an audiophile and using cadence sub's.
Thought you would of bought a system using premium brands such as jl, hertz, Polk, alpine gold series, focal.
IMO cadence is in the same league as audio line,fusion, boss,clarion.
Each to their own I guess
Where did I say I recommended it as a "top of the line brand"
good work with twisting my words and completely missing the point of my discussion
I went with cadence for my daily driver as it was all I really needed to improve my audio situation
granted my door speakers and parcel shelf setup was probably worth more than the whole car itself
I couldn't justify spending heaps on a sub just to improve my audio
I have used competition subwoofers before right down to 1 ohm stable 1500-2000w rms amps so I certainly know my audio stuff and what works for me in different circumstances
Furthemore you don't believe in tuning and using bass test to work out crossovers, so I think my experience in the area of car audio holds some weight
each to their own definately
Granted it was parked at Beenleigh station, I didn't justify having a quick release amp and sub worth more than 300 dollars LOL
You said "I'm an audiophile" I have no idea how I'm twisting words, in fact your twisting my words, I never said anything about not tuning, I was actually making fun about the bass testers as most people these days use an o scope multimeter and test tones to turn their stereo as I have.
Guess you can't teach an old dog new tricks, and I'll leave that dog alone so he can wonder off in his own world.
I have jlw6 daily driver in my car, that crappers the crap everywhere I crappin go leaving it at all train stations in the west. Lol
No idea how reliable this is, but avhub commends this unit for incar in its awards. It didnt win. I have no further details about that. I guess it might be a bang for back kind of thing using RRP, so at $76, its a good deal.
Ive found it online, for around $200.
Love the thread. I have a decent setup in my car but would love to add some good sub to round it it.
Seems this one is NOT the right one, but what is recommended.
Not after doofdoof just something to complement my speaker setup
My stereo has a separate sub output.
What do you currently have robmel and what are you wanting from your system ..
Your system would have a preout I assume which is RCA
I've got Focal speakers (rear and front) powered by a Focal amp. Will this sub enhance or degrade the great sound that I am getting now? Reason for asking, the sub is the only thing that is missing and have been putting off buying a Focal sub because of the cost, will this do?
God no.
Focal are a gorgeous speaker. Compliment then with a decent sub. Even a 10" if you don't want a 12.
I have a Hertz 12". Cost about $350 and another $100 for a custom box.
You won't regret it.
I don't know why you would mix focals with this package.
Yes it will improve bass greatly but you've spent that much on your setup why skimp out now
Can't tell if trolling here… but giving you the benefit of the doubt here, people who tend to use Focal speakers and Focal amp are very unlikely to be buying their car audio from Repco, Strathfield Car Radios, etc…
I personally was tempted by these cheaper setups numerous times before but I always ended up going back to MB Quart and Rockford Fosgate for each of my cars, and never have any regrets. That being said, the parts are important, but the installation (eg custom boxes) will make all the difference.
Being serious, focal gear is expensive quality gear, to mix it with a crappy fusion sub doesn't make sense to me but as I said it will improve bass as any other sub will.
Personally I wouldnt even bother mixing this sub if I had focal setup or my setup for that fact (Polk).
I'd be looking at getting a 13w7 1000wrms bad boy with jl slash amp
100w RMS of brutal bass………. i'd be surpised if you could even hear it anywhere other than under the seat
100w RMS would add some sound to a cabin
You'd be surprised at how much extra bass you can get from 100w of RMS power
It's a good speaker for adding kick to the drums and bass lines and would suit someone wanting a small upgrade, remembering this is a 76 dollar unit people
Just remembering however your car stereo stock head unit probably outputs 20w rms real power to the speaker's anyway in the door and parcel shelf (not taking into account premium car stereos etc on the market as added extras)
To the guy with focal speakers and wanting a sub, it would be wise to keep the sub the same brand as the tuning and cross over would suit and match and this unit isn't going to be anywhere near the quality of the focal speakers, the sub is expensive for a reason but to add some extra oomph I don't know why people are complaining about this unit it's cheap and will do the job fine
i had a 500wrms sub in a sedan and it was just passable (imo), but through the same setup in a wagon and had to turn down the gain to 50%. Location, location, location
How do you attach this to a stock 04 BMW Z4?
Double sided tape
If you don't want anything damaged in your boot, you should be making mounts to screw onto box than bolting it down.
If you want to take the risk of using plenty of Velcro but I don't recommend it.
I also wouldnt recommend you buying this combo as it will take up room in your car, best to look at a shallow mount sub and custom box to fit in the corner of the boot, saving you a lot of trunk space.
You have a z4 I'm sure you can spend abit extra on something suited for your car.
This sub is really good, might even fit underneath your seat.
https://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/Su…
If your talking about connecting it to the stock stereo you need-
Line output converter
Amp wiring kit (4ga recommend)
Knowledge of installing
Multimeter
Trim and panel tools
About 2-3 hours if its your 1st time
you know your stuff. yeh the boots tiny which is why i dont really use it
but $400 for a sub :o i am on ozbargain after all. its the old z4 not really worth that much.
but i appreciate your advice and thanks heaps for pointing me in the right direction!
I know what your saying its one of the best small enclosure subs you can get.
See the 10" it should be about $100 cheaper. If the boot space doesn't concern you, and want bass on the cheap this fusion package is pretty good, just don't expect it to sound amazing although should sound better than most as your inside car space is small it will be louder than others.
The Hoon is strong here!
Same as know it alls ;)
Just finished putting it in, Works like a charm. Sounds great in my old honda civic and eliminates pretty much all road noise, even had the neighbor comment on it and now I have to check his girlfriends setup to work out whats wrong.
Ahh .. The pros of a sub, eliminate road noise, sirens, cabin noise and bother every other idiot on the road. Lol
Did the wiring kit come in the box or was it a separate package?
Its included
hey mate, I have a civic too. I was wondering if u could provide any tips as im currently have issues with the sub.
I wired the power cable to the sub, REM from headunit to sub, ground to the cars metal body (stripped the paint) and RCA's from headunit to sub. There is power running to the subwoofer but no sound and no power running to the remote control that is included? I've already checked fuses and its all good. I even tried to plug external music by running an rca to 3.5mm jack from the sub to test it, but still no sound and the power goes off. However when RCA's plugged back in, power lights up. Don't know whats goin on?
If you haven't, plug in the little bass control dial. plug that in and turn it up about half way, also turn the gain and lpf up about a 1/3 and give it a try. Sound like you got it hooked up properly but sadly I am a hands on gotta see it to fix it kind of guy.
If the amp turns on and says its got power, then its something to do with you low input connection and bass controller.
After checking the voltage for REM and power, I found out I was receiving only 5V for power and ground on the sub when my engine was turned on instead of the expected 14V. However, when measuring the ground point at the body of the car, it measured 14V which lead me to think that it had something to do with my ground. So i tried, re-scraping/re-sanding and getting rid of more paint from the body of the car and it worked.
Thank you for all your input guys. The sub is working great. Would definitely recommend.
For anyone who is installing a sub for the first time (myself included), this video helped a lot. You can skip few steps such as wiring to fuse holder and purchasing of wiring kit (as wires are included).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=keL0WO3gVVs&t=52s
For anyone planning to install it themselves, just make sure you guys create/find proper location for your ground. :)
Any 6 inch speaker pairing recommendations?
I'm putting this sub in a VT commo which currently has stock door speakers. I was looking at the kevlar speakers from Jaycar but it's too expensive (~$120).
Was looking at nothing more than $50.
For $28 you can't really go wrong:
http://www.strathfieldcarradios.com.au/kenwood-kfc-m1634a-6-…
Nothing special, but should be an improvement over your stock speakers for sub-$30.
When wiring the positive, REM and ground wires to the sub-box, do you first have to strip the ends of the wires, or does it somehow make contact through the insulation?
Hey guys, i bought the subwoofer. I wired the power cable to the sub, REM from headunit to sub, ground to the cars metal body (stripped the paint) and RCA's from headunit to sub. There is power running to the subwoofer but no sound and no power running to the remote control that is included? I've already checked fuses and its all good. I even tried to plug external music by running an rca to 3.5mm jack from the sub to test it, but still no sound and the power goes off. However when RCA's plugged back in, power lights up. Can someone help me?
I'm just wondering if you managed to sort out your problem?
I'm having problem fitting the red cable through firewall, I have Mitsi Lancer 08, there is hole but cannot find it.anyone knows where this hole is ?
Hey mate,
After checking the voltage for REM and power, I found out I was receiving only 5V for power and ground on the sub when my engine was turned on instead of the expected 14V. However, when measuring the ground point at the body of the car, it measured 14V which lead me to think that it had something to do with my ground. So i tried, re-scraping/re-sanding and getting rid of more paint from the body of the car and it worked.
If you are having trouble installing the subwoofer, this video helped me a lot considering it was my first time. You can skip few steps such as wiring to fuse holder and purchasing of wiring kit (as wires are included).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=keL0WO3gVVs&t=52s
To answer your question, try looking towards left/right of your engine and finding existing rubber grommets where electrical cables are running through your car. I didn't need to create a new hole as I was able to push the power (red) cable into the existing grommet where all the other cables were running through. Just make sure you also create/find proper location for your ground. :)
Good luck!
Contacted an installer and this was his reply…
Installation is $200 with wiring and converters supplied fitted & tuned for that one. Or $100 labour if you like to supply cables and converter.
Is it reasonable price?
I think it is. The cheapest quote I got was $150-$200 without wiring and converters. Is the installer in Melbourne by any chance?
Yeah, in Keysborough, SoundPro installations.
BTW, for this subwoofer will I be needing wiring and converters?
+1 for some cheap doofdoof