Following up on nocure's Meguiar's car wash special, SCA also have Meguiar's compound and polish on special.
These two products are simply awesome and based on equivalent products from their detailer range. IMO they are actually better. Not only are they easier to use the compound is not as aggressive and therefore if used correctly there is little chance of chewing through your clearcoat.
No problem. Glad to help. Link has been fixed too.
"Not only are they easier to use the compound is not as aggressive" - not as aggressive as what?
sandpaper
While you are correct, I just did some snooping and I think this is the equivalent compound in their detailer range. I don't think many places would sell it though. As a reference, Poorboy's SSR2.5 is about the same price.
based on equivalent products from their detailer range
Their product range seems messed up. Too many products and it's a bit unclear what separates some items. I guess the detailer range was created so that professional detailers can claim to their customers that they are using "professional" products. I'm not a fan of that strategy. A little like how some manufacturers only sell their "professional" products to approved detailers.
The product lines in detailing are very confusing. No matter what brand. It gets hard because there is on standardisation with terms. Eg. Meguiars call that polish a glaze but what is it a polish or a glaze? They are different things. A polish corrects paint, a true glaze has no correction properties and fills scratches creating the illusion of correction
The use of different terms and products confuses me, so i totally understand why it is a gauntlet for others
The main difference between their Detailers and Consumer range is the ability for a detailer to buy in bulk.
Eg. This RRP $81.95 for 3.8L vs this $32 for 450ml. Besides a different colour and fragrance many detailers swear it is the same product. Having used both I agree with them
Sorry looks like SCA oddly changed up the URL. It's Meguiars Ultimate Spray Wax
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Meguiar-s-Ultimate-…
Dupe comment
@4agte: Agree with the terminology marketing nonsense. Shampoo and conditioner? Really? Polish - isn't. Anyway…what "polish/glaze" would you recommend for a brand new white (speaking of marketing waffle - "Snowflake white Pearl Mica") Mazda 3? Thanks in anticipation.
Being a brand new car you definitely won't need to compound. You shouldn't even need to polish at this point of time. However, when you do the Ultimate Polish would be very suitable.
If you keep wax or sealant protection up, you will not need to polish for a long time. Polishing should only be an once a year event. Paste wax lasts about 3 months while a paste sealant lasts about 4+ months. Most spray waxes will give up to 1 month of protection. Some last longer like Optimum Car Wax. Most spray waxes are in fact sealants not waxes (confusing marketing some again)
Being a brand new car have you considered paint protection like Opticoat?
@4agte; Thanks, much appreciated. Not interested in 3rd party paint protection, expect the "polish" to do its job. Just want a good, hand applied, "polish" which will shine, bead water etc for 3 months plus or minus. I have a range of older products including some Meguiars for my aged 4wd but wife is paranoid about her new Mazda. What happened to "polymer" polishes?
@Possumbly:
You are confusing polish with wax/sealant. The polish, depending on abrasiveness, will remove a small amount of clear coat to remove scratches/swirls and create a shiny surface. Most polishes do not protect your paint like a dedicated wax/sealant/coating. If you don't want a professional to do it for you, then you'd at least need to know what you're doing. I can see why your wife is paranoid about you touching her car.
@kahn: Not familiar with the use of quotation marks in language I presume? Apparently "polishing" a car now requires a degree in detailing. Wonder how I kept my new cars in very good nick using a range of quality products (without the clear paranoia some have) for decades.But thanks for your "advice".
To be clear, as I said it's a new car and doesn't need any sort of cutting or intermediate micro analytical antiswirl/watermark junk, just something to be applied - by hand - after a wash to (repeat) shine, bead water etc. Simple enough query I'd have thought.
Kahn has it spot on
Polish - improves the optical clarity of your clear coat
Wax/sealant - protects your polish efforts but will give you paint depth and slickness
Polymers contain of tens of thousands of synthetic particles that are linked together in sealants to protect your paint. I image if someone is calling a product a polymer polish it is actually a cleaner wax. Otherwise know as an All In One (AIO). It polishes and protects at the same time. Saves time but not as effective as standalone polishes or wax/sealants
@Possumbly:
Then simply get a spray sealant. Lots of products to choose from. If you want a longer lasting product, then Carpro Reload or Gtechniq C2 are good choices although more expensive than Meguiar's. There's also Carpro Hydrolite if you want to avoid buffing.
Thanks to both of you. A wax or sealant it is then. No doubt the term polish has moved on but "sealant" doesn't cut it (pun intended) when talking shine to a non-pro, although detailers undoubtedly know exactly what it means. Obviously I need to visit some of the detailer forums. Quite happy to hand buff, leave the alternatives to the pros.
Yep my guess is the polymer I have (old) is an AIO as you suggest. Good for the old Jackaroo but I wouldn't put it near the new car.
You'd be surprised at what paint on a brand new car can look like. They don't come straight out from factory to the dealer. They will be subject to weather during shipping and in the holding yard, then you're at the peril of the dealers who wash them before you take ownership.
When I took delivery of my new VW I clay barred it, then used the Duragloss pack from CCP (https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/duragloss/paint_p…). It was dead easy to apply and the water is still beading 10 months later.
Thanks for the Ultimate Compound link. Will be picking up a second hand Megane soon which has some scuffs I need to clean up, and was looking for a bottle.
@4agte: Garaged, layered sealant gets my 1 year easy, as long as synthetic quick detailer is used every couple of washes
@eciuj: Hi. I have a 1 year old mid/dark blue car. Few very minor paint chips probably on the clearcoat level - just from loose stones on the road. Would like to keep the paint protected, keep the shine up, and hopefully buff out the small imperfections. I haven't got much polishing/waxing experience. To get it done professionally will cost me about $230.
Would you recommend this Duragloss pack over using the Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Polish and then their Liquid Wax?
For my car should I go for the Aquawax or the Fast Clean & Shine? I'm leaning towards the Aquawax for another protection layer.
I can't comment on DG polishes as never used them. But DG make some excellent products. You probably couldn't go wrong with either of them. 901 shampoo and Aquawax are 2 of my favourite products.
Definitely grab the Aquawax over Fast Clean & Shine. The latter is really just a quick detailer. Good for removing dust or finger smudges but not much else really. It will add a little bit of protection (a few days to a week) and maybe some slickness. Whereas Aquawax (which is actually a sealant) will add durability and slickness. It is very versatile as it can be used on both a wet and dry car.
Quick detailers are going to slowly drop out of the market. 9 times out of 10 I'll grab a waterless wash or a spray wax/sealant over any of my quick detailers.
@086:
I get it from a large range of places but generally sparesbox or even ebay ends up being the cheapest. So check those two out.
My top 3 recommendations:
Glass cleaner
All purpose cleaner
Spray wax
The initial outlay is fairly big but saves so much money over time.
Is there really that much of a difference between the three major premium retail brands?
With prep, yes
Meguairs
Bowdens
Autoglym
How do they rate and what are the standout products from the three?
Meguiars > Mother's/Autoglym > Bowdens
That is a personal opinion how they rank but none of them would be considered premium products
Again subjective but these brands would be more likely to be considered premium:
Dodo Juice
Optimum
Prima
Scholls
CarPro
Swissvax
Polish Angel
AMMO
However it doesn't mean each of the over counter brands don't have products which can compete just as well as the premium brands. Eg. I believe Meguiars make the best glass cleaner
@4agte:
Problem with them is availability, which is why I've chucked those three in their own class, as from my limited understanding, they're the best option from retail stores.
Am open to being educated by all means.
BTW, when it comes to glass polish to remove small scratches from the wipers, whats the bet bet?
@086:
Definitely the best 3 over the counter products. Honestly all most people will need and I could find products under each brand I like a lot. I have many many brands but Meguiars still make up a lot of my inventory
I actually have never polished glass. But all the prep work is the same. Clean and clay before polish. There is dedicated glass polishes out there. CarPro Ceriglass and Optimum Opti-Glass spring to mind
@4agte:
Will both of the suggested polishes remove light scratching?
I've some Bowdens Own clay bars, so that's not a problem.
Also have Costco's microfibre rags, as I hear they're quite decent.
Is there that much difference between Bowdens Own and Meguiars not worth supporting an Aussie brand?
@086:
Ultimate Compound - heavy corrections
Ultimate polish - light corrections
Based on your question you only need the polish
I use Costco Chinese microfibre towels but never for paint. The overlock stitching will cause marring to the paint. I prefer better quality Korean edgeless microfibre
Bowden's is okay but detailing is time consuming. I don't want to spent more time just because it's an Australian product. I want to use the best value and efficient product I can buy. As I buy all my products in bulk it makes other brands much more attractive for me. Bowden's is probably fine for most people but just didn't suit me
@JB1:
Yelling at my kids not to touch the glass does no good
So I end up using the box method instead - https://youtu.be/PnRhasI3UnY
And Larry from AMMO has some good tips. Particularly how clean the front and rear - https://youtu.be/q4WwOrkgXlc?t=10m10s
What's the difference between this and liquid wax?
And can anyone recommend something that will remove the scratches on the plastic on my dashboard and interior trims?
Liquid wax is designed to be applied by a machine. You most likely want a paste or spray wax.
Depending on the type of trim it might not be possible to remove the scratches at all
PlastX is for plastics but more intended for clear plastics like headlights - http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Meguiar-s-Plast-X-P…
Not sure who negged you but it is a great spray wax. Doesn't have durability of Optimum but it makes up for that in its ease of use
Absolutely, I use the hard wax when I have some free time or otherwise just use this on my car after a nice clean wash. Really good stuff.
4agte whats the best place to get some pads for using the two products, probably use the SCA DA polisher
Good pads are expensive but do not cheap out. If they are used probably and cleaned they will last. Last thing you want is a pad failure and a backing plate hitting your paint
Lake Country pads are very highly regarded. I know ZAS sell them and maybe check Wax It or Car Care Products as well. If you can visit any of these stores maybe have a chat with them.
Chemical Guys have some reasonable price pad kits for sale on Amazon. Unsure who makes their pads but haven't heard anything bad about them
Cheers I assumed there isn't going to be any at SCA/Repco/Autobarn haha
At SCA they just have generic brand pads which I don't think are any cheaper than brand name counterparts. Doubtful Autobahn are any different but sometimes they have better lines than SCA
Hi,
I have recently purchased an old skyline (v35) in pristine condition, not a scratch, and the water beads off it.. I want to keep it that way.. I have never attempted to be fastidious in the upkeep of my second hand cars, but would like to with this one.. for a complete novice.. what is the minimum one should do with an old car that simply the paint still looks only a few years old (in a few friends opinions..) I do want it "shiny" but i dont have the funds to pay for professional detailing every so often.. just car wash and ultimate polish every so often? or is it worth getting a professional detail job to begin with, and then attempt to self maintain.. I am fine with doing it with myself if i just knew what I need to do! i.e. I would hate to start cutting into the paint when i didnt need to etc.. i.e. what items should i purchase.. I see from the above some common terms are pads (do i need a buffer of sorts?), sealant, polish etc.. I do not want to waste peoples time.. but a simple 1,2,3 checklist for the "above average car wash/polish" look would be awesome..
Thanks in advance..
The 3 basic steps of detailing:
Wash
Polish
Protect
What you should do every 1-3 weeks:
2 bucket wash with a good car wash
Use quality microfibre
Never use the same towels on your paint that you use for your wheels
Use a spray wax or sealant
Every 3 to 6 months:
Apply a paste wax or sealant
Sealants have long durability but I prefer the look of a wax
Once a year:
Clay
Polish*
Protect - Wax or sealant
*Compounding should not be necessary if you look after your paint. If you need to compound, you really need to look at what techniques are causing scratches
If you are just polishing and not compounding your won't have potential issues of destroying your clearcoat. A polish isn't abrasive enough, a compound is
My rule is your should never ever need to compound a car more than once in its lifetime.
A machine polisher isn't necessary but speeds up the process a lot. However correcting paint by hand is a horrible job. If you are going to buy a polisher make sure it's a dual action
I would skip the professional unless looking for help with corrections
Check out some videos on YouTube. AMMO NYC is a bit of the top but you will pull a lot of info out watching Larry
thank you very much, this will help me heaps.. very much appreciated!!! :)
hi 4agte, thanks for posting - link to Ultimate Compound needs to be fixed up…!
Edit: Thanks for the product comparisons and recommendations in the other thread too