Starts Thursday 16 June 2016, kit includes:
- Drill driver
- Impact driver
- 2x 2.0Ah batteries
- Charger
Other notable deals:
Worx 20V Brushless hammer drill $99
25% off copper pipe and fittings
40% off all switches and power points
30% off all lighting
Stanley Fatmax 18V Drill Driver & Impact Driver Kit $125 + Other Deals @ Masters (In Store)
1410
digitale on 13/06/2016 - 21:43 masters.com.au (7909 clicks)
Last edited 18/06/2016 - 16:07 by 1 other user
Last edited 18/06/2016 - 16:07 by 1 other user
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I got this during the last deal. Would recommend it considering its even cheaper now! It's a great little set. I've just been waiting for other parts of the range to come down to a decent price!
I bought it as well. I HATE the drill driver.
When you release the trigger, it locks the drill. Like dropping an automatic car into Park while it's still moving.
Do you mean that the chuck stops instantly?
Do you mean that the chuck stops instantly?
I suspect that is what he means so it operates like all the other decent units on the market.
I fail to see what the issue is? He probably hates the same features on grinders, circular saws etc.
Yes, there is no regenerative braking, it stops DEAD.
Which causes a dreadful clunk, and shock thought the drill. It's mechanical, literally a dog clutch slamming into the chuck or internal gears.
The problem with it is threefold.
a) when you try to slow down, you never quite know when it will suddenly stop dead. This makes fine control almost impossible.
b) When you are going flat out and release the trigger, the sound is frightening, plus sparks fly out of the motor! The drill is doing 3,000 rpm then BANG
c) the manner in which it activates is so viscous that I am doubtful that it's doing the internals much good. It's bad enough on the gearbox and chassis when you are drilling and suddenly get an accidental motor stall. But this unit does that every trigger action.
Brrrrrr BANG Brr BANG Br Br *BANG**
He probably hates the same features on grinders, circular saws etc.
You really say the silliest things.
As if a grinder or circular saw would have a "instant stop lock" that stops the blade / wheel instantly when the trigger is released. The shock would probably tear the thing apart, and perhaps shatter the spinning disk.
You really say the silliest things.
Or do you just not have an understanding of technology?
As if a grinder or circular saw would have a "instant stop lock" that stops the blade / wheel instantly when the trigger is released. The shock would probably tear the thing apart, and perhaps shatter the spinning disk.
It's not an instant stop lock as you claim except for my bottom example but is an electronic clutch or similar system.
I have a 9" grinder that stops the rotation instantly if the blade jams. A major cause of accidents with a 9" grinder is the blade grabbing and the blade ends up embedded in the chest of the user.
My cordless circular saw stops as soon as I release the trigger. A major cause of accidents with circular saws is after power is removed the saw is placed back on the ground with the blade still turning and the blade cover is stuck, the blade ends up cutting the user open.
There are table saws that stop instantly when you touch then so you don't even get s cut finger - http://www.sawstop.com - these require the replacement of a cheap part as these are literally an instant stop.
I noticed the trigger sensitivity is low in the impact driver. Takes a bit getting used to. Are you driving screws in low speed or high speed? I would suggest not to drive screws in high speed.
This would probably cause the nut to unwind and the disk to fly off.
No it wouldn't unless you didn't have it tight to begin with.
I haven't used the Stanely drills - but all 'trade' level gear I've used behaves like this. As soon as you let go of the trigger the drill stops instantly.
I can't see why you see this as a bad thing.
I use Milwaukee, Hitachi, Bosch Blue and Dewalt gear mostly and they all behave like this. I use them across a wide range of fittings, so "fine control" is no issue - learn how to use the tool.
a) when you try to slow down, you never quite know when it will suddenly stop dead. >This makes fine control almost impossible.
Only for those without fine motor skills. It's not hard to know how your drill operates.
) When you are going flat out and release the trigger, the sound is frightening, plus sparks fly out of the motor! The drill is doing 3,000 rpm then BANG
So why release it at 3000RPM? I guess you would rather the drill bit jams and the resulting torque spins you around, damages your wrist/shoulder or you fall off a ladder.
c) the manner in which it activates is so viscous that I am doubtful that it's doing the internals much good. It's bad enough on the gearbox and chassis when you are drilling and suddenly get an accidental motor stall. But this unit does that every trigger action.
How do you know that it does any damage? The tools are designed to operate in this way and there are no reports of early failures after many years of operation like this in many different brands.
It's funny that people who have no idea about tools are so fast to be critical of features that are there to save the user from injury or death.
It's not an instant stop lock as you claim except for my bottom example but is an electronic clutch or similar system.
It was YOU who claimed that grinders and saws had an "instant stop".
Anyway, what you describe is regenerative breaking - nothing like how the Stanley drill operates, with a "dog clutch" that instantly locks the blade solid. Think of an automatic car, and what happens when you put it in Park.
I have a 9" grinder that stops the rotation instantly if the blade jams
Yep, me too - that's precisely what happens when a blade jams.
There are table saws that stop instantly when you touch then so you don't even get s cut finger
Come on now, you really are stretching it now. That's an emergency system, for once-only use (and the part that breaks is $50 (much cheaper than a finger)
I noticed the trigger sensitivity is low in the impact driver
The Stanley Impact Driver doesn't have the "instant stop" I was talking about.
It was YOU who claimed that grinders and saws had an "instant stop".
No I didn't.
Anyway, what you describe is regenerative breaking - nothing like how the Stanley drill operates, with a "dog clutch" that instantly locks the blade solid. Think of an automatic car, and what happens when you put it in Park.
The Stanley drill doesn't have a blade and it doesn't have a dog clutch - most drills use an electronic clutch even the trade varieties. The Stanley drill operates in a similar manner to most other trade tools which all have similar but not always identical to stop the rotation effectively instantly. Try it with a large object attached like a hole saw and it won't stop as fast.
Yep, me too - that's precisely what happens when a blade jams.
You really have no idea, I said that when the blade grabs the rotation of the grinder is stopped instantly which prevents it being forced back into your chest or body. You have to a model specifically designed with this safety feature and there are only a few on the market.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FqAxcxkrL0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QA8twj-cpMCome on now, you really are stretching it now. That's an emergency system, for once-only use (and the part that breaks is $50 (much cheaper than a finger)
I was talking about safety systems. You only need that feature to work when you touch the blade, you need the drill, grinder and circular saw safety features EVERY time you use them as they cannot tell when they are coming into contact with skin or throwing you off a ladder or breaking your wrist.
The Stanley Impact Driver doesn't have the "instant stop" I was talking about.
It doesn't need to have this for safety. Do you not understand the difference between a drill and an impact driver?
It doesn't need to have this for safety. Do you not understand the difference between a drill and an impact driver?
I wasn't replying to you. Re-read the comment, and understand the context.
I was talking about safety systems.
Yesssss… but I wasn't talking about safety systems. Not sure why you are bringing things into the discussion that are irrelevant.
Anyway, you know all and you win. I couldn't be bothered.
Yesssss… but I wasn't talking about safety systems. Not sure why you are bringing things into the discussion that are irrelevant.
The reason for the immediate stop is SAFETY. What part of this are you unable to understand? You complain about a behaviour that has existed in trade tools for years and years with NO problems, you assert that this behaviour is going to destroy the drill that you have but you have not posted anything to back this up and you continue to make absurd claims because you don't know how to use the tools properly.
[@llama]/comment/3776483/redir):
Whatever you say. Not interested.
Of course you're not, you would rather rubbish a product through your own ignorance then educate yourself on the correct operation of a tool. At least prospective purchasers won't be put off by your misleading comments.
How tight do you want it?
Why don't you think about the way you tighten the fixing (a bolt for circular saws and a nut for grinders), the direction of rotation, the way it holds onto the blade, the fact that the etc. There is no way the fixing can come loose and fly off, especially not when you have tool-less change systems like on some Bosch grinders and DeWalt grinders.
You should return the kit and get something more cheapo.
Can't believe you are whinging about this. All drills work like this.
Happened to me once with an air grinder, put on a brand new grinding wheel, reasonably tight, motor seized, disk came flying off, don't say it can't happen, just because it's never happened to you.
Edit yes when you are using it it goes against the direction of the screw, making it tighter, but if the spindle stops, the wheel still has momentum unscrewing the nut
Can't believe you are whinging about this. All drills work like this.
No, they don't.
FFS, guys - I am not complaining about the instant stop.
I am complaining about HOW the Stanley implements it.
Those who are commenting here obviously don't own this particular tool, and thus cannot understand what I am referring to.
This drill driver, when it stops (like most similar tools do) sounds like an automatic car being chucked into Park while it is still moving. Other tools, like De Walt, AEG, Milwaukee, Bosch, etc all have a similar regenerative braking system to stop the chuck quickly, but they don't sound they are smashing metal on metal and destroying the gearbox every time that they do it.
FFS, guys - I am not complaining about the instant stop.
Yes you are.
I am complaining about HOW the Stanley implements it.
The same way everyone else does it.
Those who are commenting here obviously don't own this particular tool, and thus cannot understand what I am referring to.
Of course not….
This drill driver, when it stops (like most similar tools do) sounds like an automatic car being chucked into Park while it is still moving. Other tools, like De Walt, AEG, Milwaukee, Bosch, etc all have a similar regenerative braking system to stop the chuck quickly,
They don't? You might want to check out some of the newer models from DeWalt etc and see what they sound like. BTW no drill has a regenerative braking system and they all operate in the same manner.
I don't know what throwing a car into park when driving sounds like as I've never done it but perhaps you can upload a video the next time you do it.
but they don't sound they are smashing metal on metal and destroying the gearbox every time that they do it.
And neither does your Stanley or you would be complaining about if failing every time you use it! Seriously, take it back to Masters and buy yourself an Ozito or a corded drill.
Don't agree
All drills I've used stop instantly and you can feel the kickback slightly. They also stop with a decent "clunk", some more than others.
I tried this drill at Masters on their demo table and nothing felt or sounded out of the ordinary.
All drills I've used stop instantly and you can feel the kickback slightly. They also stop with a decent "clunk", some more than others
Well, how lovely. Tell me - if everything was equal, which type would you prefer - the loud clunk and kickback, or a more smooth, refined and quiet stop?
I tried this drill at Masters on their demo table and nothing felt or sounded out of the ordinary.
You probably wouldn't notice it in that environment. It's mainly noticeable when free-running in 2nd (high) speed, and then you release the trigger with no load. It is most apparent with a high inertia load like a sanding disk, buffing pad, etc - the shock of the stop is enough to loosen the pad off the arbour of such accessories (you normally don't tighten down hard, since the normal operation self-tightens it anyway.
As I mentioned previously, the problem is the automatic "spindle lock" (so that the chuck can be used one-handed) that engages, and not the "instant stop" (normal braking) system. Some people with poor comprehension skills say what I refer to is a "safety feature", however it's only for the chuck tightening (nothing to do with safety).
Anyway we all know there's no point arguing with keyboard warriors here on Ozbargain, because they know absolutely everything about all subjects.
Interestingly, none of the people who posted to disagree with me actually owns this product, nor has any practical experience with it whatsoever. Strange they can lecture an owner with such authority and conviction, eh?
You probably wouldn't notice it in that environment. It's mainly noticeable when free-running in 2nd (high) speed, and then you release the trigger with no load.
Why would you release the trigger from high speed with no load?
It is most apparent with a high inertia load like a sanding disk, buffing pad, etc
Who uses a drill for sanding or buffing?
As I mentioned previously, the problem is the automatic "spindle lock" (so that the chuck can be used one-handed) that engages, and not the "instant stop" (normal braking) system. Some people with poor comprehension skills say what I refer to is a "safety feature", however it's only for the chuck tightening (nothing to do with safety).
The problem isn't spindle lock, there is no problem except for your poor usage of the tool. I notice you only mention spindle lock now, before this you were blaming the dog clutch LOL.
Anyway we all know there's no point arguing with keyboard warriors here on Ozbargain, because they know absolutely everything about all subjects.
You've been a glowing example of this.
Interestingly, none of the people who posted to disagree with me actually owns this product, nor has any practical experience with it whatsoever. Strange they can lecture an owner with such authority and conviction, eh?
Probably because they use higher end tools but it's easy to use it in the store and see how it works as I and others have.
You probably wouldn't notice it in that environment. It's mainly noticeable when >free-running in 2nd (high) speed, and then you release the trigger with no load.
Probably not - I use the drill like a normal person under load.
If it's not noticeable in Masters, then it's even less of an issue and I still can't believe you are whinging about it.Well, how lovely. Tell me - if everything was equal, which type would you prefer - >the loud clunk and kickback, or a more smooth, refined and quiet stop?
I want my drill to stop instantly as soon as I release the trigger. Clunk and kickback doesn't bother me - I have drills that do this and they are many, many years old and still going strong, so it's hardly something that causes damage.
Interestingly, none of the people who posted to disagree with me actually owns >this product, nor has any practical experience with it whatsoever. Strange they >can lecture an owner with such authority and conviction, eh?
Interesting that everyone else here that owns the product hasn't complained about. You seem to be the only one carrying on about nothing.
It's mainly noticeable when free-running in 2nd (high) speed, and then you release the trigger with no load.
I just confirmed this. Position 2. Pull trigger then release quickly. It doesn't sound pleasant. I can see the cause for concern.
@llama: Tested mine as well and it does a spark which u can see at back and I can smell burning. Hope this does not cause any serious issues? If you stop gradually, it does not do that.
My Ryobi brushless does not do that and rotates much faster compared to this. But is a little heavy despite 1.5 AH battery.@Gaggy: it's fine, the Sparks are just the electric brakes on the drill doing its job. In brushless there's no spark as there's no brushes to contact but this most brushed drills will spark like this to conserve battery and for safety.
The smell would just be from the manufacturing oils on the motor and contacts burning off from first use and will go in time. I've had/abused my Stanley kit for ages with no probs.
In fact they wouldn't give a 3 yr warranty that includes trade use if they weren't confident in the product. The gear is just rebranded porter cable stuff that's been tried and proven and has heaps of reviews on Amazon and the like so whilst this argument btw llama and Maverick is entertaining, there's not actual cause for concern.
@allergic2work: Thanks. That is a relief. I will be keeping the impact driver only as I love the Ryobi brushless ( though a little bigger and heavy) and sell off the drill.
whilst this argument btw llama and Maverick is entertaining, there's not actual cause for concern.
It's not really a cause of "major concern" for me, I just posted to inform others about it.
However as I said at the very beginning, I personally don't like the crude and noisy way that the Stanley drill operates compared to other brands and models of drills.
Different things annoy different people. For example, I'm the kind of person who's annoyed by a clunk in a car suspension, and would have it repaired ASAP. I consider it ridiculous to argue with me that ALL cars have clunks in the suspension, that I am unqualified to own a car, or to accuse me of lying when I tell people that I am unhappy that my car has a clunk in it.
In the case of this drill, I don't know and honestly couldn't give a shit WHY the Stanley drill makes this horrid sound every time I release the trigger. I don't know and couldn't give a shit if other people don't consider it a problem. To me the sound (and feeling) is highly annoying, which means that I use one of my many OTHER cordless drills (usually the compact Makita) as my "go-to", simply because it has a more refined feel during use, creating a more pleasant and refined overall user experience for me.
Sometime I do a lot of repetitive work like countersinking for small screws in soft materials. That requires numerous multiple stop-go processes, each with trigger released without load (you lift the tool and then stop, not the other way around). This might need 4 trigger events (testing in between each) per hole, across 200 holes per panel, and there is 5 or 10 panels. Maybe a couple of hours of continuous light work.
Doing that with the Stanley drill would drive me absolutely bonkers… brrrr BANG, brrrr BANG, brrr brrr BANG, brrr BANG! Personally I don't need to accept this, since I use another drill instead - however some people might only own one drill, and the crude engineering might be annoying to them.
In fact they wouldn't give a 3 year warranty that includes trade use if they weren't confident in the product
You confuse the issue - it's probably not about reliability, and more about usability. I own numerous other drills to compare this to, most people only own one drill (some don't own any, and look to purchase their first).
Note that the standard FatMax cordless warranty is only ONE YEAR. You have to register online within 1 month of purchase in order to be eligible for the 3 year warranty. Oh, and the extended 3 year warranty excludes batteries and charger.
I will be keeping the impact driver only as I love the Ryobi brushless ( though a little bigger and heavy) and sell off the drill
Perhaps you could tell us - ignoring the sparks and smell, what is the difference in SOUND and FEEL when you release the trigger on the Ryobi compared to the Stanley?
Which drill would you consider feels "more refined" and/or "better engineered" in bringing the chuck to a stop after each use?
@llama:
Sorry TL;DR….You lost me when you started talking about cars and suspension…whilst you're entitled to your opinion, at the end of the day, this drill and impact driver with these specs, reliability, warranty, performance and esp this price can't be beat.
The issue you've raised regarding the banging when the trigger is released has been explained and is comparative to other brushed trade spec tools as expressed by multiple other users.
Doesn't matter if this combo is your first drill or 100th set, at this price it's a bargain-end of story
You lost me when you started talking about cars and suspension
Since it's incredibly difficult to explain simple concepts to some people, I tried using an analogy. This was to try and help people appreciate that some of us have different levels of "acceptance" than others.
The issue you've raised regarding the banging when the trigger is released has been explained and is comparative to other brushed trade spec tools as expressed by multiple other users.
Yeah, so? Not sure how you or they could know if "it's comparative" when they don't even own THIS DRILL LOL
In any case, it's up to others to choose what they might accept. What they might accept doesn't make me wrong about what I will accept.
I personally consider that the Stanley is inferior to other drills in this particular regard. I would prefer if it worked quietly like my Ryobi, Makita and DeWalt cordless drills… in fact, it would be an improvement if it worked like my Ozito 18V cordless POS!!
Doesn't matter if this combo is your first drill or 100th set, at this price it's a bargain-end of story
None of my comments have anything to do with price. Why bring that up?
Remember - I already bought the drill kit at $149, and have been using it for well over a month.
@llama: I hve not used big brands earlier, but have not seen it in any other drills. I could see a lot of Sparks and burning. Not a pleasurable experience if you ask me, but not a show stopper as well if it keeps working fine. I have not seen such behaviour in any other drill. If you release the trigger slowly, it does not do that. So will get used to it.
Ryobi does not do that. Other than that it is pretty solid and works well. Torch is a bit shonky. As said earlier, Ryobi has more speed compared to this one.Probably becasue the motor is more exposed in these, also high voltage.
Crappy drills with tiny motors normally you cant see much in. Anything with brushes is going to spark though.
Re the way it stops. The dewalt seems to operate pretty much the same.
It definitely takes getting used to. I'd still recommend it though. You just need to be a bit more nuanced with your use. The bargain itself is great. The units andd batteries, charger and case are really nice.
Do these deals consolidate the rumour that Masters is closing?
It's not a rumour. They are winding up. They're just doing it slowly unlike dick Smith who did it very publicly, relatively quickly.
http://www.news.com.au/finance/business/retail/what-comes-af…
Masters is for sale not closing
maybe you meant on sale
Hope someone buys it.
Do you reckon if everyone on Ozbargain chips in a dollar we can buy it?
Can I buy the business using my 5.5% cashrewards gift cards? Decent savings there :-)
I sincerely hope not, love the stuff you can get down at Masters.
Do these deals consolidate the rumour that Masters is closing?
What rumour? The one about your inability to read the thousands of articles online about Woolworths exiting the hardware business and they are looking at options at the moment OR the one about you wanting to spread false information?
Do we really have to have this same conversation every time Masters has a special?
Click and collect is quite nice and will be missed. I hate walking around bunnings not knowing whether something is in stock and which isle it is located at.
I also bought this from last deal. Still sitting in my garage… would it be possible to get the difference back?
Within 30 days, yes.
I'm tempted to buy another one anyway. If you look at the price of batteries alone, it works out cheaper! Then just sell the bare drill and driver.
How do these compare to the AEGs available at $199 for bunnings powerpass customers?
They are inferior.
These Stanley kits are closer to Ryobi One+ range in specifications and quality
I have an AEG router, it's rubbish. Not sure about the drills though.
The irony…considering AEG are owned by the same folk that own Ryobi. PS - check the specs, the Stanley's have been discussed numerous times already in previous deals and rate well. The impact actually has higher Nm on the Stanley's than the AEG. But the hammer drill and 5.0ah batteries in the AEG kit are pros.
AEG are better - absolutely
Beware - you'll get negged for saying that LOL
I know - but they are.
Seems if you mention any affintity towards any other tool brand that isn't Ryobi, that's a neggin'.
Ozbargain seems to be the defacto Ryobi Fanboi clubhouse.
I can't see what's so exciting about the products myself, it's not like interchangeable batteries are anything special. The Ryobi One+ tools I've seen and handled all "feel cheap" to me…. I guess if you've never used anything else then they'd seem pretty good compared to Ozito, K-Mart cheapos, etc.
I bought Bosch Blue because my sister recommended them to me as that's what they use at her work.
They've been flawless for me and I continue to buy them.
Never used Ryobi so can't comment - however, a lot of the woodworkers I watch on YouTube use them.
I'm a buy once, use a lot person and I dunno if Ryobi will let me use and abuse.
They both aimed at the same consumer group. Weekend warriors and DIYers. The next level up would be dewalt vs Milwaukee. I'd just get fat Stan. Can't stand the colour scheme of the AEG
OP where did you see this sale??
Yeah, is there a catalogue?
Watching
Are the Shark Bite fittings part of the 25% off copper pipe and fittings ?
Don't know if they're included, but in true ozbargainer fashion, I bought a heap when they were cheap. Found out later I've no use for them so if you're after some, happy to help out.
Are you in Perth ?
Why yes, I am. Check my ad on gumtree to see if what you're after I've got.
T1
The 20V hammer drill looks interesting, but I still can't think of a reason to have a cordless hammer drill when I have a corded one already, considering I only really use it around the house
Thanks for letting us know.
Cool. Time to re-wire and replumb the house.
Would buy if I needed them. My only concern: Stanley is a relative newcomer with power tools. Not as popular with battery packs and so forth.
Would be based on the DeWalt gear as they are from the same company.
That's not how it works often. SB&D own a LOT of tool companies. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stanley_Black_%26_Decker
Been using tbe fatmax 18v range around the house for various DIY jobs and couldn't be happier. I've picked up multiple items from various deals over the year and I even found them better than the entry level Milwaukee. Also like the idea of extending my range with some of the 18/20V Black and Deckers (just the gardening stuff) with a few modifications to the battery.
I find the fatmax very good quality for a home use tool. Hoping to pick up a few more bargains before masters 'closes'.Hey, how did you modify the battery to go into the black and Decker?
I suspect you would just file off the plastic tab in the slide of the battery. Physically the battery packs look the same but the b&d packs are usually only 1.5ah packs. Thought about doing the same but I prefer my 4-stroke Honda engines for gardening gear and the other b&d skins look of a lower spec so I can't be bothered.
ahh, i have an old black and decker firestorm drill that had Ni-Cad Batteries, was hoping that they would bring it back to life
Just repack your old Ni-Cad battery pack with Ni-MH cells. Or just buy a new Ni-MH pack from Ebay - the ones that Coolcar Spares sells are very good.
Ebay. But I've found it's generally cheaper and easier to just buy a complete new pack.
For example, a 14.4V Ni-Cad pack has 12 x Sub-C cells in it. Even at $2.50 each from China, that's $30 and a new Ni-CD pack is only $38 delivered from Sydney.
I haven't researched fully - just explaining concepts
thanks op
the stanley combo is very tempting…