Ends Feb 1 or until sold out.
Reid sale has it at $599 (RRP $899, usually $799).
Use code 20BUCKS to bring this down to $579!
Plus Cashback of $19.96, brings total down to $555.01! (Cashback link - https://www.cashrewards.com.au/reid-cycles) thanks to user ahc99 and TheOneWhoKnocks!
Bargain Mite!
Edit: Adding the codes n cashbacks - the bargain keeps getting better!
I wouldn't rush into this deal. It has Tiagra and 105 components in it with a cheap frame. It is a 2014 model so probably the older 5700 105 group.
Its not a bad bike if you are desperate to get into road cycling but I would pay a bit extra and get a well known brand or a quality used bike off Bicycle Market on Facebook.
Thank you for your reply. You are right about that. WYPIWYG. I'm a beginner but want to start with a good one.
For everyone's information, looks like the normal price at which they sell this bike is 579$.
Here is a comment from JV. The cache link is not working anymore but you can understand the story.
What sort of riding do you do UP? Might help people provide some advice :)
@hoxygt: no riding so far. Maybe I should rephrase. I'm not a beginner yet. Looking forward to begin. So my knowledge is Meh.
But I've got advice like 1000 is the price for a decent bike to begin with. A cheap bike may force one to lose interest in biking.
@UglyPanda: Try cellbikes.com.au
they have reasonable bikes for reasonable price and quality is lot better then no name brands. I think Cell Lapa 2.0 for $999 is a reasonable bike
I think you can get into some solid road bikes around this price, $3-$400 can get you a nice second hand bike. Tiagra/ 105/ Dura Ace its all marketing spin, the difference to your ride is really not that big a deal for most riders.
If you've never riden a LBS helps big time making sure you get fitted correctly and to do any adjustments/ repairs should they crop up. Additionally most LBS's do group rides which is a great way to learn some technique, rules meet a few people and get some great advice.
The hardware you start with imo is really not that high on the importance scale. Its like asking if Nikon or Canon best for a beginner, the difference is 1% or less, much more important is how you use it, the skills you gain and if its suits your needs.
If you're starting add $100 to get some puncture proof tyres - that'll increase your enjoyment factor by 100% :)
@hoxygt: "Tiagra/ 105/ Dura Ace its all marketing spin"
"The hardware you start with imo is really not that high on the importance scale."
"If you're starting add $100 to get some puncture proof tyre"
This is all terrible advice.
Comparing Tiagra to Dura Ace as marketing spin is hilarious. There's a very clear difference in performance and quality. The hardware you start with is hardly negligible, if you are going to the milk bar and back, sure. But if you want to go on longer (10km+) rides, you'd want the reliability and quality of higher components. Having a lower end group set will deter you from riding in the future since your bike will be heavy and unpleasant to ride with the mechanics failing and not being reliable (shifting etc.).
'Puncture proof' tires are also a huge waste of money, they are extremely heavy and make cycling a lot worse. Put your $100 towards a better bike and reap actual benefits rather than being a wimp about changing a $2 inner tube if you somehow get a flat. Keep your PSI at the maximum tire rating and you'll have no issue with flats and it will be easier to ride.
Block-quote If you're starting add $100 to get some puncture proof tyres - that'll increase your enjoyment factor by 100% :)
Another thing I might note when I got my bike. The stock tyres I got on the wheels were Kenda - Something model.. and they are solid and puncture proof. So much so that I would think they were made of plastic as they provided jack all grip and were rock hard! First thing I got replaced 2 months into riding the bike.
@corbz:
My 2 cents. There is some difference in some components, others not so much.
I think its worth buying a nice derailleur as this has a lot of moving components and you will be keeping it a long time. So I have a dura rd. I usually just buy cheap cassettes though (sora) because weight aside there is bugger all difference. Cheap third party chains for the same reason.
@hoxygt:
Actually great advice, particularly with the Puncture proof tyres
I ride every day, rain hail or shine (literally) to and from work 16km.
The single best investment in riding pleasure I have made is puncture proof tyres.
I haven't had to stop and repair a tyre since having them on for the last 5yrs. Before that punctures were a regular part of my urban cycling life.
I'd also have to say that my $600 (new) bike has been an absolute pleasure for the last 6 years of use - and reliable.
Cycling for many has become about gear (something we males have perfected), but in reality unless you need to win a race, then oh so much is over rated in this space.
$599, really this is excellent value for a starter. If you don't like riding no great loss, if you do in a couple of years upgrade. Personally I prefer flat bar road bikes and paid $1275 4 years ago for a bike with only marginally better specs.
Oh!, I would never ever buy a second hand bike, you just don't know what you are getting into.
Yeah I brought a second hand bike a few years ago and only just realised it has a new fork and a new left shifter on it. Must have been involved in a crash which the previous owner never told me about.
At the end of the day, its about the rider and not the bike.
I got a Giant TCX for $500 secondhand a while back, practically like new. Around 5,000km of it and its been flawless.
Bikes don't readily hide problems like second hand cars so if its your first bike and don't have anyone to help - yep new from your LBS is a great idea. If you have a small amount of bike/ mech knowledge second hand bikes are a BARGAIN hunters dream.
Like golf clubs everyone thinks a $2k bike will make them ride or a beginner to ride like a pro, never get into it and eventually flog it on Gumtree for half price or less.
I once overhauled an old steel racer that a neighbor got for a song at a junk recylcers. I think it was $30 if at all.
It was a bit rusty and some bits needed replacing but he was on a budget and we made do with 2nd hand and ebay parts [generic no-name stuff].
After we got it running smoothly again, I took it for a spin. Sure it was a bit heavy compared to my $1000 Merida but it was still heaps lighter than my steel beater bike. Rode like a dream, it did. Good thing my neighbor learned how to shift using down tube levers. It became his daily driver.
I suppose what I'm trying to say is, any bike can be good with a little TLC, even if it's a frankenstein.
If you like the idea of having a brand new bike, this is a good deal.
Groupset ranking: Claris -> Sora -> Tiagra -> 105 -> Ultegra -> Duraace
This bike does have some decent components in addition to a compact crankset meaning easier hill climbs.
However, for the same money, you can definitely get a better bike second hand.
Resale values on Reids are generally not too good.
Bicycle weight can be a demotivator.
On a good frame (not Reid) it can motivate you by upgrading small parts and wheels. On a Reid, IMO it will demotivate you as you will think you're better off buying a whole new bike.
About half price of equivalent brand name. Some bits like the wheels are not the greatest but fine for entry level/commuting.
I'd rather this than a secondhand equivalent any day , Nothing new from your LBS would touch this for value . No doubt it's last years Shimano 5700 20 speed 105 and not the latest 22 speed but 20 is enough for most . The shifters and derailleurs are 105 which are the important bits and will make for a reliable bike .
Only XL size left in Sydney.
Does this have a turbo?
I got a Reid bike, its pretty bad quality. Gears grind and come loose all the time. Pretty much made me stop riding.
google how to tune the real derailleur?
Is it shamano 105 or one of the cheaper lines . Shimano is Shimano . Tuning sounds like a great idea .
Highly likely a Condor?
Yeah a condor. Still its pretty bad
Yeah, apparently it's the most basic road bike out there, so it's really you get what you pay for.
Nothing wrong with Shimano Tourney if adjusted correctly. Thing with the Condor though is I'm not sure if it has indexed shifters?
If it has indexed shifters then there's no reason why gears should grind or come loose (whatever you mean by loose?).
The gears come off??? The cassette comes off? the gear cable comes off? The derailleur comes off? slips between gears perhaps i.e. up and down?
The chain comes off at the dear wheels when i change gears and put too much pressure on it when changine gears. On certain gears it makes terrible noise.
Chain coming off means you need to tweak the rear dur limit screws - http://www.artscyclery.com/learningcenter/shimanorearderaill…
Terrible sounds probably means its not aligning on onto the right gear very well. The above link describes the process to correct that too.
The process to adjust is quick and easy once you know how. I do it every time I clean my drive line (prob every 500km). I find the more rear gears you have the easier they come out of adjustment, my old 7 speed rarely needed adjustment, my 10 speed often needs a tweak to keep changes 'sweet'.
My gf got one of their vintage bikes. What an absolute pos it is. Basically a Kmart bike or worse for 3 times the price.
You can also use discount code 20BUCKS to save an extra $20!
Works for orders over $100
It doesn't stack though, so the VIP code would still be better.
Sorry, my bad, you're right. Added.
Problem with Ozbargain commentors is that you'll generally get crappy reviews for things that aren't the best of the best. For a normal commuter, this bike would be great value and get you where you want to be, fast.
So true. No practical benefit (aside from sticker prestige) in upgrading from this unless, possibly, you are a serious racer, where minuscule margins matter.
Shimano 5700 is good.
All these carbon Ultegra bikes on the Sunday-morning coffee run … oh well, beats buying a Porsche for the mid-life crisis :-)
but 20 is enough for most .
10 gears were enough for Eddy Merckx. You think 22 will help you close the gap on him?
I would get one of these for commuting if I didn't already own a few bikes.
Good value for money and even if it was stolen, it is not a big deal.
Reid, the brand would probably deter most thieves from stealing it since they won't get much from selling to someone else.
Slightly off topic, I wanted to get my wife a Reid ladies retro style vintage beach cruiser. Does anyone have experience with these for casual riding, short distance and weekends?
If you get a chance have a look at the bikes costco are selling they seem to be reasonable for $399
Or try ebikes they are bit expensive but in my opinion you will get more out of it.
just a suggestion try borrowing or renting a bike for a week and see how you go before you go investing in any bike, unless you are really motivated or you have a group of motivated friends.
Good luck.
Thanks, however I suspect her motivation may not be there for too long hence the interest in the Reid bike which is in the 250-280 price range. Don't want it to be a frustrating ride nor one that bits fall or rust off quickly.
See if you buy a cheap bike it may turn her off from bike riding due to its weight. So maybe rent one or see if you can borrow one form a friend.
With ebike I'm sure if she doesnt end up using it you can use it :)
If that is the normal vintage bike that they are selling, don't buy one. My gf bought one, terrible bike. Chain guard is flimsy tinplate, will bend with the slightest touch. Quite heavy bike. Chainring is non-Shimano and tends to throw the chain quite easily if the barrel adjuster is not perfectly adjusted.
Rubbish bike, stay away.
without looking too much into the specs. I dont think there would be any difference in the geometry of the 2014 and 2015 frame, just a different colour scheme. Its a cheap enough entry level bike to get into tour de steroid which if needed you could upgrade or replace components as they fail or you have extra cash from the savings on the purchase. There is also free delivery on bike stuff from CRC at the moment.
If you are new at it and not mechanically sound with bikes you cant beat the free servicing for a year plus that new bike warranty.
Its not how you stand by your bike, its how you race your bike in Lycra. Remember that.
I use it as a commuter bike since 2013. Even though I take good care of the bike you notice it's flaws over time - good components ( to make the specs sound great ) paired with cheaper components ( as ShamelessBargains mentioned before ). I still thing it is a good value bike for commuting, never had any big problems, except for grinding gears. My other Reid fixie is still going strong after 4 years, never had any issues with that one.
This bike is decent value and a good entry into road bikes. There is no point in comparing this bike to branded road bikes as the price brackets are wide apart. Some people bag this bike but usually they are owners of elite road bikes who have paid significantly more for theirs and expect premium components.
After a few weeks of use, they recommend taking the bike back to the store and they make adjustments/tune the bike. It cost nothing for this tune which may eliminate gearing issues.
I would suggest testing the bike out first before making a purchase, which goes for any bike. It should feel comfortable otherwise you won't ride it.
As windowshopper commented above:
You can also use discount code 20BUCKS to save an extra $20!
Might be useful to add this to the post, will make it under $560.
There are definitely cheaper entry level bikes such as http://www.samsoncycles.com.au/road-bikes/drop-bar-road-bike . Depends on how serious you are with cycling, otherwise a lot of people say to steer away from Reid in my experience. Also I have a strong preference for drop bars on bikes and a front derailleur isn't necessary for a commuting bike.
a front derailleur isn't necessary for a commuting bike
You should come try my commute sometime then
:) Amen
I ride around North Melbourne and the inner city suburbs so it isn't a necessity.
You cannot compare the Samson with 7sp Shimano to the Reid with Shimano 105!
Say what you want about the Reid frame and wheels, but I consider the Shimano 105 great reliable kit.
AlexRims are terrible,especially if you're at the heavier end of the scale.
I have had this bike for almost a year now and here is my $0.10. If your going to use it for recreation / commuting bike then this bike is a bargain. The components that are 105 (5700 10 Speed) include the shifters / crank set / Front and rear derailuers only. The brakes / chain are generic. Not a problem as changing the pads / chain will be like $50 bucks and make shifting / braking much better.
Geometry is a bit aggressive so it wouldn't be the most comfortable ride. The frame is alloy and forks are carbon. So crashing the bike / dropping it wont be an issue. The weight of this bike fully loaded in the real world is around 10-12kgs so not that light. Its heavy compared to most road bikes of carbon / aluminium build but at 10% of the price.
The only other thing is the STIMGA that comes with riding a Reid. It is a cheap entry level bike brand and you will get $hit for it from your friends and other riders. If you dont mind this, then its an awesome bike as this will get you fitter as you put in more effort than other riders that start on 6~kg carbon bikes that cost $10k. I've turned up to club rides / Rapha / MC / etc rides with people that have Supersixs/Venges/Propels/$8k+ bikes and have dropped them. The look on their faces…
PS. When I got the Reid I managed to score the Mavic Aksium wheels an additional for $200 bucks. Look on Bike Market on facebook and these go for $1xx. Very good commuting and training wheels, not light but so much better then the stock rims they give you.
In summary. Get this bike if your planning on doing commuting/training/recreation on it. The money you save throw into accessories like a GOOD helmet, lights, shoes and clothing.
I pondered, then Googled when my pondering came up short. Google told me that STIMGA (which I had thought was perhaps an acronym better known to members of the cycling fraternity) was a misspelling of "stigma", albeit with emphasis:)
doh! S.T.I.G.M.A..I stand corrected.
Streamlined Tush Inspires Gluteous Maximus Appreciation?
Stop Talking I'm Getting Mad At'yer
Definitely a Hubbard (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Hubbard)bike but a that price point would suit a commuter or someone who is dipping their toes in the water to see if they like riding. If you were to get more serious I would ditch this, (or use it for your wind trainer sessions)and look at a more reputable brand later down the track
Yikes I better shave my legs or at least keep the warmers on after reading that!
What kind of riding are you going to do. If you are looking to commute to work or maybe around town etc this bike is great. If you are looking to take cycling up as a hobby, to race or even to do a few sportives, hook up with a local bunch for social rides of 50-60km ish on weekends or some of the longer charity rides etc I think there are better options.
If it was me I would look for something 2nd hand on Scumtree or one of the Facebook swap boards and haggle the seller down. But then again I would have an idea of what I wanted and what it was worth.
Nothing wrong with the Reid you are looking at but it is heavy. If you live somewhere flat-ish probably not too bad but if you live somewhere hilly and plan to ride up hills those extra couple of Kgs could hold you back (that said, if you are like me there are a few Kgs on my waist that are easier to lose than anything on the bike!)
The different groupsets are more than marketing hype, tyres are important but it isnt hard to change a flat and most folks dont flat too often depending where you ride. A Reid wont hold its value like a Specialized/Trek/Cannondale/Colnago etc.
If you did go along with this and wanted to upgrade anything on it, upgrade the wheels. Aksiums arent great, they are the entry level wheel for Mavic (French wheelmaker). If you look on the Facebook groups like Bicycle Market there are often wheelsets that come up 2nd hand much better than Aksiums for $100 or less. If this bike takes a 105 10 speed cassette you would need to get some Shimano 10 speed compatible wheels. (for those who know what I am talking about, something with a Shimano 10 speed freehub body to slide the cassette onto).
OK, if you do go with this bike here are the bang for buck upgrades I would make:
go to eBay and get a chinese carbon 27.2 seatpost to replace the alloy one. Carbon will flex a bit more and absorb some of the road chatter as well as probably being lighter. I cant remember what these cost but last time I bought one for my flat bar commuter bike they were very cheap (but took ages to float here on the back of an asthmatic chinese turtle).
I've never ridden on the Velo saddle but if you are doing any serious Kms you will probably want to upgrade your saddle. The usual suspects like chainreaction, ribble and wiggle often have sales. I have seen cheap saddles on www.clickbike.com.au before. I like 'flow' saddles, a type not a brandname. Flow are saddles with a hole in the middle that helps prevent rubbing in …ahem…tender areas…nuff said!
Pedals, you need clip in pedals and cycling shoes. Not only are they much more efficient and allow you to transfer more energy to the road but those toe cage things scream 'Hubbard'. Look on the Facebook 2nd hand boards for cheap pedals and shoes. Pushys.com.au often has cheap shoes if you know your size.
Wheels, dont believe what they say about the Alex rims. I know you wont be after the Zipp Firecrests just yet but you would be able to pickup some 2nd hand wheels immeasurably better than the Alex Rims on the Facebook swaps. I bought a set of Bontrager Race Light wheels off a cyclist at a coffee shop once for $50, ended up selling the rear wheel to someone else for $75 a week later, still have the front one! Use your OzB skills and you'll be able to upgrade your ride. Wheels will make a massive difference to your ride, you can often feel a big difference! For your Reid make sure you dont mistakenly buy Tubular wheels, you want clincher wheels. Tubulars are great for race wheels etc but essentially need to have a tyre glued onto the rim. Messy and expensive if you get someone else to do it for you and certainly not something you want to do at the side of the road after a flat.
Tyres. Personally I've never ridden those Kendas but below a certain speed (cant remember think maybe 25km/hr?) rolling resistance is the biggest thing slowing you down, above that it is the aero effect of you shoving your way through the air. Better tyres = lower rolling resistance and faster times or at least less effort to maintain speed. There are a few well regarded tyres out there, I like the Continental GP40002 tyres but others swear by Schwalbes, Vittorias etc. Do some research.
I agree with some of that but probably not the suggestion that people "need" cleats for a commuter bike. The two times that I have had to bail from my bike while jagging about in traffic I have thanked baby Jesus that I didnt have to free my feet from cleats first.
Toeclips will get the job done, in my view.
Agree, if it is going to be used as a commuter on the bikepaths/inner city streets etc toeclips might be OK. If you are going to ride 50-100Km+ on long weekend rides out in the hills etc, get cleats/shoes. I know steep hills that I would struggle to get up if i wasn't able to be pulling on the pedals on the upstroke as well as the downstroke! I'll be clipped in on the Cadel Evans People's ride this weekend!!
Am I missing something? Why the negs for 2ndeffort's comments? I thought they were informative.
I agree, nice write up :)
Yep, not sure what I've done to upset somebody!
+1 to counter the -ves
What a load of crap from reid!!! This bike was never rrp $899 in 2014! the Falco elite was $899 (I would know because I bought one) these dicks inflating their rrp to make you think you're getting a better deal!
It was $639 in July 2014
http://web.archive.org/web/20140701110739/http://www.reidcyc…
They do appear to 'inflate' the discount you're receiving.
Medium out of stock.
Just returned from the Melbourne store. They only had 2 in size XL remaining on the shop floor.
When I left there was only 1 in XL left.
Medium and Large out of stock
Can Anyone that has this please clarify ? is it possible to fit a rear carrier on this ?
I want to use it for commute to work but prefer to put the backpack on the carrier.
Yeah that's my preference too!
It appears it doesn't have any braze on mounting screws on that model. You can use P clamps though, check this thread - http://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/602956-mounting-rear-rac…
Its what I have on mine and it works a treat.
Thanks
any comments from the experts on quality and how good is this deal?