First gaming PC build

watty on 01/08/2014 - 23:16
Last edited 06/08/2014 - 16:05

Hey everyone!

I've been reading around a lot on building a good/decent first gaming PC but I'm still feeling pretty worried about stuffing it up. I've built my draft build using PCCG's pricing (excluding the SSD) and this whirlpool page (http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/rmp_sg_whirlpoolpcs_gaming_conf…). I'll really appreciate any tips or changes I should make to it :) Thanks!

Intel Core i5 4460- http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&p…

ASRock H97M-Pro4 Motherboard- http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&p…

Edit* Ram*: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&p…

SanDisk Extreme II 480GB SSD- http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Hard_Drives_&SSDs/SSD-2.5%22&_PCI_Express/50270-SDSSDXP-480G-Q25/OZSSD

Western Digital WD Blue 1TB WD10EZEX- http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&p…

Gainward GeForce GTX 760 2GB- http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&p…

FSP Raider 550W 80 Plus Silver Power Supply- http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&p…

DVD drive OEM- http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&p…

NZXT Phantom 410 Mid Tower Case- http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&p…

(Trying to keep it under $1250)

I am a total newbie when it comes to computer building and I probably did something wrong (like if i used the wrong power supply etc.).

Thanks again! :3

Edit: Forgot to mention that a "good/decent" computer to me is one that will give me at least 30fps (consistently) when playing games such as PD2 (which I'm definitely not getting from my 2009 laptop lol).

Edit 2: Updated build list, still needs trimming down. http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/hWPjBm

Edit 3: Updated list (major changes) http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/PJCjBm

Edit 4: Updated list (getting there lol): http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/nfgRYJ

Edit 5: Updated list (after reviewing comments carefully): http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/8p8hFT

Edit 6: And DONE! Thanks heaps to all that have contributed to helping me build my computer, all advise was helpful and in detail and I hope this thread will be able to help other first time builders out there if they decide to take the plunge. Here is my final build if you interested and the total was $1360 (not sure if I can get the OS free being a student, but if I do then it will be about 100 bucks less).

http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/HsPyt6

Thanks again!

Watty

Edit: Few more changes- no sound card, went with the Asrock mobo and better case.

http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/6YQzXL

Computing Computer Desktop Computer

Comments

  • breaks on 02/08/2014 - 00:59

    What operating system do you plan to use and are you going to use Wi-Fi? A radeon R9-280 costs the same and is faster than the GTX760.

    • watty on 02/08/2014 - 01:11

      I was going to go with windows 7 and yes to wifi.

      • Gina Rinehart on 03/08/2014 - 22:37
        +7

        I would recommend Windows 8.1 highly. It's way faster under the hood than windows 7, and you can easily disable the tile start menu using a program called classic shell. There is way too much hate for it, which I can see where people are coming from, but I honestly don't think they've truly used windows 8 and realised how good it actually is (aside from the tiles, yes, they are terrible).

        Notably in your case, W8/8.1 have crazy improved performance with SSD's over W7, improving boot times by a LOT (I went back to W7 temporarily.. couldn't stand how slow it was after using 8 for a while).

        • watty on 04/08/2014 - 16:24
          +1

          Thanks Brezzo, will definitely go for 8.1 :)

        • normanwall on 07/08/2014 - 15:33

          Just so you know, the 'tiles' are generally referred to as the 'Metro UI' due to the Microsoft Metro Design Language.

          http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metro_(design_language)

  • breaks on 02/08/2014 - 02:02

    Here's a decent build for $1246 (less if you shop around). A 480GB SSD is overkill for most users.

    • watty on 02/08/2014 - 02:07

      I'll bring it down to 240, pretty sure sandisk ones are on sale atm. Thanks :)
      Edit: The link doesn't work for me for some reason.

      • breaks on 02/08/2014 - 02:11

        Sorry, I copied the wrong link. Here you go and here's another build with faster graphics but a slower, locked CPU.
        BTW, at what resolution do you expect 30fps? This will handle anything you can throw at it. Don't worry too much about the storage, you can always add more later.

        • watty on 02/08/2014 - 08:27

          Thanks for the builds mate, I might just hit up the third one listed, but with some mods to it myself (I read around a bit and people consistently were listing certain parts). I'm not too fussed about resolution, probably the clearer the better, something that could bring out the most in this https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/148112 would be nice. Thanks!

        • watty on 02/08/2014 - 09:06

          Here's my updated list, still need to trim down the price a little but not sure what to downgrade/upgrade/leave alone. Cheerios

          http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/hWPjBm

  • TheMoDz on 02/08/2014 - 03:59

    gotta add peripherals,

    Keyboard, Mouse, Speakers and Monitor.
    + extras
    Additional Fans, Aftermarket cooler for CPU.

    with PSU consider getting 600w and above, recommend Corsair brand.
    with SSD, 120GB SSD should be enough for OS drive, just relocate installation manually to HDD.

    • watty on 02/08/2014 - 08:36

      Yeah I already have most peripherals set up. Though I wouldn't mind getting a blue yeti as a desktop mic sometime in the future as I can use it for uni assignments. I'll look around for a cheap 120GB, the sandisks extreme II are pretty cheap for 240 gigs already but I check ozbargain every 10 minutes during the day lol - surely something will come up. Cheers

  • Paul Atreides on 02/08/2014 - 10:01
    +2

    Not good as knowing builds myself, but heres a few things I was told that might help you.

    1. Aftermarket CPU coolers are unnecessary unless you plan on OC'in your cpu
    2. AMD GPUs GENERALLY run hot, so case fans are more important if you plan to use one.
    3. SSDs that are lower storage capacity GENERALLY tend to have performance drop offs compared to higher capacity models.

    I don't think youll have any problems getting 30fps++ on PD2 using that GPU

    • watty on 02/08/2014 - 10:29

      Thanks for the tips Madmouse! Yeah I may stick to the 240 SSD as a result and buy a few more fans just to be safe.

    • Claggs on 04/08/2014 - 01:26

      Opps! Accidentally down voted on my tablet. Sorry!

  • ethereal88 on 02/08/2014 - 17:13
    -5

    CPU - Its locked and a low clock, if you are getting a locked i5 get the highest model so you get the most speed out of the box.

    MOBO - Doesn't have ALC 1150 (very good onboard sound), get the H97 Performance instead

    SSD - Sandisk model is old and slow, get an EVO

    GPU - 30FPS is console. You want to crack 50FPS, get a 780 or 290. If you all you get is 30FPS, you will dip at points to sub 20s which is rubbish.

    PSU - You want headroom, get a 750w model at least

    • watty on 02/08/2014 - 17:28

      I made several changes, thanks for your advice :)

      Updated:
      http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/PJCjBm

      Couldn't move on the CPU (already over budget a lot lol) so I'm hoping there won't be a huge difference. If it's small then I can live with that.

      Edit: I was told 8 gig of ram will do me fine, games i will play with this for example are day Z and hopefully H1Z1 - Being realistic, with this build i'll be over the moon to play those games on medium if not low/medium settings smoothly.

      • MustResistPurchase on 03/08/2014 - 09:54
        +2

        The PSU, Mobo and CPU cooler are overkill. Even on your link it says the estimated wattage is 373W. The Z97 is mainly used for overclocking, so just get a H97. The CPU cooler is not necessary as you won't be overclocking, so the stock one should be fine.

        • watty on 03/08/2014 - 10:31

          The H97 Performance is only 10 dollars cheaper than the one on the list now so is it still worth it to go with the cheaper one? Ethereal98 suggested the 750W model for headspace so now I'm a bit confused lol. Thanks for your help.

        • MustResistPurchase on 03/08/2014 - 14:19

          @watty:

          Do you plan on overclocking? If so, why not put some funds into an i5 that's overclockable. As for headspace, do you plan on adding in more powerful GPUs?

        • watty on 03/08/2014 - 15:11

          No I don't plan to overclock or add more GPUs. I asked around and people said the W estimate on the partpicker website usually is not accurate but I still don't know if 750W is over the top (I think it is but again, after consulting mates and forums some say yes it is and some no it isn't).

        • scrimshaw on 03/08/2014 - 20:02
          +3

          @watty:

          750 w is over the top, especially for a system that's ever only going to run 1 GPU.

          Also, the power supply will not run at it's optimum efficiency when it's at idle usage.

          All PSU's have what's called a power efficiency curve. In the context of computer power supplies efficiency refers to how well the power supply is able to convert the AC power it pulls from the wall into DC power it feeds to your components.

          In your case, your power demands are not high enough to reach max peak efficiency — as I see it, the most your computer may draw is 380 watts, out of a possible 750. While it will be at least 80% efficient at max load, your computer isn't going to be drawing max power all the time and will actually spend most of it's lifetime at idle wattage (say, 160 watts).

          So yes, there is a benefit to going with a lower watt PSU — the PSU is cheaper, operates more efficiently at idle and the overall power usage at the wall will be lower too (save on power bills)

        • watty on 03/08/2014 - 20:43

          Thanks for the explanation Scrimshaw :) So in my case should I drop to a 550W or lower?

          Edit: I saved a little money downgrading the power supply so I upgraded the CPU. Updated build list:

          http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/nfgRYJ

        • scrimshaw on 03/08/2014 - 21:22

          @watty: looks good

        • watty on 03/08/2014 - 21:32

          @scrimshaw: Cheers mate!

    • This Guy on 04/08/2014 - 01:32
      +1

      CPU - A 4690 is 8% quicker for 16% more money. This upgrade won't improve frame rate. Money better spent on GPU

      MOBO - an ASUS Xonar DG or DGX sound card would be a far better upgrade for $30/$40

      SSD - Extreme II's are faster than 840 EVO's. EVO's use TLC NAND to cut cost/expand size. Proof:
      http://www.anandtech.com/show/7173/samsung-ssd-840-evo-revie…

      GPU - 770's and 280X's will easily crack 50fps at 1080p. And cost less.

      PSU - OP's system is around 360W. Most brand name PSU's supply their rated load. A brand name, 750W PSU for this system is money down the toilet.

      • watty on 04/08/2014 - 12:31

        Thanks for the pointers man, I don't know how I missed your comment when reading this morning lol. I'll update my list today and hopefully I can get a solid build. I'll probably downgrade my gpu.

        • watty on 04/08/2014 - 16:03

          I meant CPU

  • Ughhh on 03/08/2014 - 17:10

    The Western Digital WD Blue 1TB WD10EZEX is $62 at MSY btw

    • watty on 04/08/2014 - 06:31

      Thanks for letting me know, I'm looking towards letting a 2tb because I store a lot of stuff and I share the computer with the family.

  • Claggs on 04/08/2014 - 01:35
    +1

    Scrimshaw is right on the money with his advice.
    Don't know if I'd bother with the aftermarket cooler, Intel's do a pretty decent job.
    Also, don't recommend Windows 7, Windows 8.1 is significantly faster in just about every way. You can get mods and what not to make it look more like 7 if you wish, but I dont believe that you'll be disappointed.

    This is all obviously my personal opinion though, what you want and need vs what another person might tell you you 'need' is quite likely to be different.

    • watty on 04/08/2014 - 06:24
      +1

      Hey Claggs, yeah I'll definitely give 8.1 a go, and like you said, I can just mod it later if I don't like it. I dropped to the 550W on the updated list but will make more changes when I get home. Thanks for the recommendation :)

  • This Guy on 04/08/2014 - 02:14

    http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/vkxyt6

    $1254.00 PCPartsPicker
    $+180.00 for SSD

    $1434.00 total

    CPU - i5 4660
    * Your original choice, fine as you want a gaming machine

    M/B - ASRock Z97 Anniversary
    * More PCIe slots for less money

    RAM - Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB)
    * One stick because it's $20 cheaper. Duel channel has no benifit to you. Proof:
    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/PARALLEL-PROCESSING,1705…

    SSD - 240GB Sandisk Extreme II
    * Faster than 840 EVO
    * Not listed so +$180

    HDD - Your choice

    GPU - MSI Radeon R9 280X 3GB TWIN FROZR
    * $30 more for 10% higher FPS
    * Aftermarket cooler so quiet

    OS - Win 8.1
    * Trust us, it's not that bad

    Case - Antec One Hundred
    * This one has front dust filters and two fans!!!
    * Tape off side panel intake to reduce dust build up.

    PSU - Silverstone 550W 80+ Gold
    * You picked great!

    DVD - Any

    Sound Card - Asus Xonar DGX
    * Has high quality headphone OP Amp! Last time I checked you need to spend ~$200 to get noticeably better sound quality.
    * Not needed with USB headphones

    Wireless - TP-Link TL-WDN3800
    * Duel band card. You choice was fine, but if you are considering upgrading your wireless this is better.

    Note
    * Two PCIe slots used in this build. Put sound card in lowest slot, and wireless just above it.

    • watty on 04/08/2014 - 06:29

      Thanks heaps this Guy, really appreciate the explanations because I'm very new to this. Looks like your build works better than mine! Just a few questions, 4660 is good for gaming so if I upgrade it I won't notice a difference right? I'll never do video editing or intensive things like that but just wanted to be sure. My friends told me to get a durable Mobo and buy MSI or Asus brands, is that true? Thanks again for your replies, I've noticed them on multiple threads and it's very useful for newbies like me.

      • This Guy on 05/08/2014 - 03:13

        If you spend $20 to upgrade the CPU, you will increase the frequency 0.1 GHz to 0.3 GHz. This will give you up to 3% more fps in some games. Most of the time you will get no increase.

        If you spend $30 to get a faster GPU you get closer to 10% more FPS in most games.

        As for motherboard brand, it currently doesn't matter. Pick the board with the features you want. Asrock is owned by a major manufacturer that used to be part of ASUS. Asrock also tends to be around $20 cheaper for a set of features when compared to other companies. All motherboard companies get their parts from the one or two companies that make each part.

        Most branded features are gimmicky and have very limited use (sniper mode, "waterproof" motherboards, one ounce copper, etc.). Just check to see if it's compatible with your other parts (compatible processors/socket, chipset, SLI/Crossfire, RAM slots, PCI/PCIe layout, size, fan headers and IO).

        • watty on 05/08/2014 - 23:05

          Again i somehow missed this comment, thanks for clearing the mobo's up for me. I switched back to the H97M Asrock, thanks mate! :)

    • watty on 04/08/2014 - 16:21

      Does the brand of the ram affect the performance or durability? Everyone I asked at Uni have told me to buy G.skill. Thanks

      • breaks on 04/08/2014 - 16:37
        +1

        No. RAM performance is affected by latency (lower is better) and clock speed (higher is better). There are few manufacturers who make the actual memory chips, the others buy and assemble them.
        G.Skill is a good brand, often used by overclockers and usually quite cheap. Kingston is also very reliable and has been around for ages. Buying faster, more expensive RAM is not worth it as any performance gains are negligible (with Intel, anyway). Just compare the warranty periods.

        • watty on 04/08/2014 - 17:40

          Thanks for the explanation, I understand now. Just got home and now looking through all the posts in detail :D

  • epicaricacy on 04/08/2014 - 10:01

    SanDisk extreme ii on sale here

    https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/155316

    Also, the larger the capacity, the faster it goes…

    • watty on 04/08/2014 - 16:06

      I'll definitely keep a lookout on the extreme II, I missed the recent deals ($129 for 240 I believe) but ozbargain has great deals on ssd's that pop up. Thanks for the heads up. Watty

  • Keeegs on 04/08/2014 - 15:00
    +1

    I'll toss you a Windows 7 Pro cd key for free. Just PM me.

    • watty on 04/08/2014 - 16:08

      I appreciate your kindness mate! Thanks for your offer but I'll buy it myself, my mum always taught me to earn what I want but again, thanks anyway :)

      Edit: also I want to give 8.1 a crack, most people are supporting it and it sounds good

  • breaks on 04/08/2014 - 15:48
    +1

    Here's another build that you might want to consider. Some information provided by others here is misleading so I'll try to provide reviews and links to enable you to make better educated decisions.

    CPU: Core i5 4590
    This chip is good bang-for-buck as it costs only $15 more than an i5 4460 while providing a good performance boost (0-8%) in a few games. Take a look at this too. Anything faster is a waste of money as the performance increase in games is negligible.

    Cooler: Stock
    Boxed intel CPUs come with a cooler which is adequate in your case since you are not overclocking. It's a little noisier than most aftermarket coolers but you can always replace it later.

    Motherboard: ASRock H97m Pro4
    This motherboard may be of Micro-ATX form factor but it is full featured and excellent value at $100.
    Features:
    4 RAM slots
    6 SATAIII ports
    2 PCIe x16 slots
    8 USB 3.0 ports
    6 USB 2.0 ports
    7.1 Channel Audio

    Reviewed here and here.

    RAM: Kingston DDR3 2 x 8GB, 1600MHz
    While this guy is right, buying a single stick is poorer value than the kit included plus a RAM upgrade later might be poorly matched. 2 x 4GB will take up two slots (fewer slots for additional upgrades) and consume slightly more power.

    SSD: Samsung Evo 250GB
    The Sandisk Extreme II is quicker but comes in a smaller capacity at a higher cost ($30-$40 more). In gaming, SSD performance typically affects game load speeds and here, the difference is negligible and your money is better spent elsewhere.

    GPU: MSI Radeon R9 280X 3GB TWIN FROZR Video Card
    Available for under $320 if you shop around, this card is a non-reference design and great value with excellent cooling and a nice factory overclock. It will beat a standard GTX770 which costs $20-30 more.

    Cooler Master K280 ATX Mid Tower Case
    Good price, great reviews, plenty of hard-drive bays. Only $50.

    Silverstone Strider Essential 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
    Adequate for your needs, good price, good efficiency. Modular is a nice feature to have, but expensive and it does not affect performance.

    Notes
    - In most cases an add-on sound card is a waste of money as your motherboard already has a decent one built-in.
    - Windows 8.1 is snappier and overall better than 7. You can install classic shell to get the Win 7 interface.

    All up, under $1350. $1300 if you shop around.

    • watty on 04/08/2014 - 16:17

      Wow thanks for the details, I appreciate the time and effort :) I'll sit down tonight and read over all the replies and make educated decisions on my build (currently on train reading off phone). Lower price point is awesome but I don't mind spending a bit more for durability and performance (like pushing budget to $1500). Thanks for your pointers, they are a huge help! Watty

      • breaks on 04/08/2014 - 16:41
        +1

        You're welcome. Rest assured, I have not made any compromises on durability or (gaming) performance. This rig will serve you well and there are many provisions for later upgrades e.g. support for many SSD/HDD, more RAM and sufficient PSU power for a bigger graphics card.
        I noticed the Sandisk extreme II SSDs are available at almost the same price as the Samsung Evos. I'd go for one of those then.

        • watty on 04/08/2014 - 17:47

          Sorry I forgot to ask if 16gig of ram was too much or right on the dot for me. A lot of people told me to go with 8 gig of ram because i'll never end up using all 16. Thanks

          Edit: I misinterpreted your info, my bad! 8 gig is good :)

    • This Guy on 05/08/2014 - 04:21
      +1

      CPU
      With the exception of Civ 5, all those games have just 1-2 frames difference. The benchmark also used a 780 Ti, a better/more expensive card.

      RAM
      I only picked an 8GB stick because it was $20 cheaper than a 2x4GB kit. RAM won't run at it's rated speed unless you configure it to.

      Sound card
      This sound card goes great with a good pair of headphones. If OP uses speakers or USB headphone then yes, it is a waste of money. Yes, generally every other PCI/e sound card is a waste of money too (even for headphones).

      The rest
      breaks your parts list is solid. OP pick the parts you like best.

      • watty on 05/08/2014 - 06:05

        Hey this guy! Thanks for info. I'll put my sound card back in tonight when I get home, I would liove better gaming sound and it's only about $38 dollars. Thanks again for all your posts here, you've been an enormous help. Watty

        • breaks on 06/08/2014 - 15:17
          +1

          Here's an idea, why don't you try the on-board sound card and buy the Asus card if you're not satisfied?
          From my experience, there will be no discernible difference especially since you're using basic computer speakers (Swan M10's). If you listen to mp3s, skype and just play games, stick to the inbuilt sound card. If you want improved mic sound quality buy a better mic!

        • watty on 06/08/2014 - 15:31
          +1

          @breaks: Yeah I got rid of the sound card lol and honestly, I don't listen to music a lot with my speakers anymore. Cheers

          Watty

  • ethereal88 on 04/08/2014 - 17:39
    -1

    "GPU - 770's and 280X's will easily crack 50fps at 1080p. And cost less."

    Not in any modern game with the settings turned up, not in Metro, not in Watch Dogs, not in Crysis 3 etc and certainly not next year.

    You also don't want a mobo with ALC 892 if you are going onboard, you want ALC 1150.

    • watty on 04/08/2014 - 17:49

      That's alright, I'll never play games at 1080, usually i'm happy with medium graphics and I don't tend to play AAA games. I'm more of a gamer that likes playing with mates, not so much of a serious gamer. I'll keep a look out for ALC 1150, thanks for that tip :) Watty

    • This Guy on 05/08/2014 - 04:22

      Next year we have DX12 and a new set of GPUs.

  • mrmarkau67 on 04/08/2014 - 18:12

    Your last couple of builds are looking pretty good. Don't forget some space in your budget for a great mouse, keyboard, speakers/headphones and monitor. These can affect your enjoyment of your PC more than an extra few CPU cycles.

    • watty on 04/08/2014 - 18:41

      Thanks man! Just finished my updated list and the best part is I'm learning heaps. As for the mouse I love my LS1 (I know it's old and not for gaming but I just love it), I have a blackwidow sitting in the cupboard that I've never used so that will come in handy, speakers wise I'm using Swam m10's (which are fine for me) and I have plenty of good headphones and a blue yeti, as for monitor I'm planning to get a dell ultra sharp 24 inch for about $250 (was on ebay for that price) - might have to wait a while till I see that price again. Thanks for the reminder :) Watty

    • ammark19xx on 05/08/2014 - 22:03

      (Sorry, on iPhone… I wanted to post this to a comment further down abt Mobo needing to be a good brand and things being a PITA)

      AsRock is a good brand, and PCCG has good service. I bought my case from PCCG and it had a faulty power switch. I had to troubleshoot step by step to see if psu was ok (it was). Then took it whole to msy to check if mobo was culprit - it was fine using screwdriver method. That left the case front panel I/O as the culprit. PCCG was great, they ordered in a new front panel and let me swap that out within 3 days.

      I think you can rest easy with the AsRock and PCCG/MSY.

      But if you're not buying an i5-4690k, then save money and stick to a H97. They have the same features except overclockability.

      • watty on 05/08/2014 - 23:11
        +1

        I switched back to the H97M (if that's the one you were referring to). Cheers!

  • watty on 04/08/2014 - 18:59

    Alrighty! Thanks to everyone who helped me get here in the last couple of days. I've learnt heaps and I can feel that my computer is almost done.

    CPU i5 4590 - Went with that because it was slightly better for a very small amount. Might as well lol

    Mobo ASRock Z97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 - Still not sure about ATX the variants (mATX i think it was) but I'll look that up on google. This was recommended here and by a mate of mine.

    Ram G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 - Little more investment and got G.Skill.

    Storage Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM - Cheap and 2tb (aiming for 2tb)

    Video Card MSI Radeon R9 280X 3GB TWIN FROZR - Had a lot of support for this here.

    Case Cooler Master K280 ATX Mid Tower - Was recommended here and looks pretty neat.

    Power Supply Silverstone 600W ATX12V / EPS12V - Still not completely confident on 600 or 550W, so I went with 600W to give me headspace.

    Optical Drive Samsung SH-224DB/RSBS DVD/CD Writer - Cheapest branded one.

    Operating System Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) - Heard great things about this above so I'll give it a crack.

    Sound Card - Took it out, only thing i wanted to improve is the mic sound from my end and the audio I hear from games and my friends (i don't think a sound card will help). Please correct me if I am wrong! (I did some background research on forums but I'm not 100% sure on the info).

    Wireless Network Adapter TP-Link TL-WDN3800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter - Upgraded this, fast connection is good! lol

    Again, thanks heaps to all who have contributed to my build. I appreciate everyone's time and effort in each post. Here is my own build from what I have read and understood so far. If there are still things that you think I should change please let me know as I am still only learning. Cheers

    http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/8p8hFT

    Edit: I forgot to ask if any other fans are required for my build. I had a mate suggest a few more 120mm but he also recommended for me to get a $150 case LOL so I'll ask here to be sure. Thanks!

    • mrmarkau67 on 04/08/2014 - 19:38

      Micro ATX is a smaller (often cheaper) board with less slots. Means you can use a more compact case, but you miss out on some expandability. Smaller cases are sometimes harder to keep cool, and a little harder to build.

      Here is the micro version of your selected board.

      http://www.mwave.com.au/product/asrock-z97m-anniversary-inte…

    • jubified on 05/08/2014 - 00:17
      +1

      Build looking good. The only thing I would personally change is the motherboard back to the h97 to save a few bucks without losing performance. And for psu, 550 or 600w would be fine for a single graphic card build.

      • watty on 05/08/2014 - 06:17

        I'll consider changing back to the h97 but it's only a little cheaper I believe (~$15). I think I'll stick to the ATX case because I may want to expand later on (who knows right? Lol) hence my current mobo should be perfect for it. I'll look up the list of psu's tonight and see if there's a a better 550W than the current 600W I have and go from there. Thanks ! :) Watty

    • This Guy on 05/08/2014 - 05:14

      Wireless Network
      TP-Link TL-WDN3800 - you probably won’t notice any speed increase. Most internet connections are slower than the old wireless G cards. If you have a wireless N - 5GHz router and lots of wireless devices you should get a more stable connection.

      Case Fans
      Consider putting a 120mm fan in the front of the case. The front of the case has mesh which stops some dust from entering the case. Cooler Master used to use six split pins (three on each side) to hold the front to the case. Be careful not to break or crush the front IO cables. The front fan is also easier to install if you do it first.

      If you want to leave your computer on 24/7, consider a Noctua NF-S12A for the front fan. They are ~$26, but the ten dollars extra is worth it to me because I never have to change it. I've never had a cheap fan last more than six months, but I've run my Noctua's for six years, 24/7.

      • watty on 05/08/2014 - 06:22
        +1

        I usually have 2 laptops using the same internet. Might switch down to the cheaper option, thanks for letting me know. I'll definitely place a fan at the front and put it in first before anything else, thanks for the tip. Lol 6 years?! My mum would freak out because of the power bill, I only use it to game so when I go offline i'll switch my comp off. Cheers! Watty

        • This Guy on 05/08/2014 - 12:16

          You should be fine with a cheap fan then.

        • watty on 05/08/2014 - 12:22

          @This Guy: awesome, thanks!

        • ammark19xx on 06/08/2014 - 01:14

          @This Guy:

          Agreed. I bought 2 cooler master 120mm fans for $4 each from MSY and put them up front for intake. My case came with a 120mm rear exhaust fan. All 3 are usually running at 800 rpm by my MoBo (the cooler masters are rated at1200rpm). This works great for me, as my MoBo ACPI temp usually reads 26-28'C. And I get positive air pressure this way too (air blows out from side vents and grills) while the air being drawn in by the front fans have the mesh filter screening dust from getting in.

        • This Guy on 07/08/2014 - 15:48

          @ammark19xx:

          Consider taping up your side air intake and speeding up the rear exhaust fan. Depending on what you are running, your open side intake might be wasted air. Watch what happens to your CPU and GPU temps using CPUID HWMonitor. If you're not happy, remove tape.

          My CPU, GPU, MOBO, all 26'C too! (though CPU keeps jumping to 28'C).

        • ammark19xx on 07/08/2014 - 22:52
          +1

          @This Guy:

          Actually, I've installed 2 of these on the side intakes to keep the dust accumulation down. As far as things are now, I'm quite happy with the temps, but thanks for the suggestion. The foam and the plastic in these ebay filters are actually pretty bad at facilitating airflow, so I suppose effectively they're doing the same thing as the tape, ie. keeping the wasted air in circulation inside the case.

        • This Guy on 08/08/2014 - 00:55

          @ammark19xx:

          I honestly never thought to check ebay for dust filters!

          Thanks for the heads up :)

        • watty on 08/08/2014 - 06:53

          @This Guy: some people are using pantyhose because it's much more cheaper. Not sure if that is a good option but it is a cheaper than pre made filters (such as the cooler master haf 912 set going for about 50-60 bucks).

      • breaks on 06/08/2014 - 15:27

        Just FYI, the Cooler Master case comes with a fan at the front. You can add a further 2 120mm fans.

  • watty on 04/08/2014 - 20:07

    Edit: replied to wrong place.

  • phamid on 05/08/2014 - 00:55
    +2

    As a uni student, but depending on where you are, you'd be eligible for cheap/free Windows. Look into that. They'd need a Dreamspark Premium subscription with Microsoft. https://www.dreamspark.com/Default.aspx
    The build looks good and I can't fault it. Have you thought about buying from Amazon? GPU prices are a lot cheaper over there.

    • watty on 05/08/2014 - 06:27

      Nice! Thanks for the reminder, I'll look into that today (windows that is). I'm going to look around my local comp stores today, I know a few of them personally so I want to check out their prices. If they are much more expensive I'll look to buy online and amazon will definitely come into the picture. I would prefer to get it locally because that rules out doa return issues (mainly postage costs and time wasted waiting) and local warranty easier for me.

      • phamid on 05/08/2014 - 09:02

        Amazon pays for any return postage for DOAs from what I remember.

        • watty on 05/08/2014 - 12:19

          Awesome! I'll look up amazon and check their prices in comparison to prices I will ask around for at my local stores. Cheers epic. Watty

  • ammark19xx on 05/08/2014 - 11:26

    Regarding CPU cooler:

    The problem with Intel Core processors over the past 3 releases (Ivy Bridge & haswell) is that Intel has used a thermal interface material inside the processor block between the metal top and the CPU core itself, instead of soldering it as was done previously. This makes the current CPUs run hotter (dissipate heat less efficiently). Coupled with this, the Intel stock cooler is the same from what it was from Pentium 4 days, and is weak, and prone to getting clogged with dust.

    This basically means on a stock cooler, in 7-8 months time you'll find your CPU idle temps be around 42-44'C and CPU load temps to be in the 80'C range. If this is something you can tolerate, by all means stick to it. If it isn't, then buying a $24 Hyper TX3 Evo from MSY may be an inexpensive investment and less hassle to install on a new build.

    I built a i5-4670k PC for myself just 4 weeks back and I bought the $37 Hyper 212 Evo from MSY. I am not overclocking it yet and my CPU idles at around 34'C while at load it reached a max of 56'C only once till date.

    N.b: I play a lot of FSX which maxes out all CPU cores with my more than 100GB of addons. Also it's good practice to install multiple case fans for positive airflow to keep the computer cool, as well as reducing the rate of dust accumulation.

    • watty on 05/08/2014 - 12:21

      Hmmm you make a good point so I'll just put in a CPU fan as it's not that expensive. Thanks for sharing your experience! Watty

    • breaks on 06/08/2014 - 15:43
      +2

      "The problem with Intel Core processors over the past 3 releases (Ivy Bridge & haswell) is that Intel has used a thermal interface material inside the processor block between the metal top and the CPU core itself, instead of soldering it as was done previously."

      This was greatly improved with devil canyon CPUs which is what OP is getting.

      "Intel stock cooler is the same from what it was from Pentium 4 days"

      Pentium 4s (LGA775, that use the same cooler design) dubbed preshotts were a debacle in terms of power consumption. No comparison with these. A big company like Intel would not be selling you coolers that are inadequate for their CPUs.

      Read here: "Intel’s boxed cooler does a good job until you heavily overclock your processor.".

      Besides warranty issues, that would be a PR disaster waiting to happen. Their extreme edition chips don't come with coolers because they are meant to be overclocked.
      I re-iterate, the stock cooler will work perfectly well.

      • watty on 06/08/2014 - 15:50

        Sorry, I'm jumping from side to side with each comment because I super worried about stuffing my first comp up. I'll take your word about the stock cooler but in summer my unit gets pretty hot as the air con is only in my room. Just worried my comp will melt lol

        Do you think it will overheat or am I just paranoid lol? Thanks for replying breaks. Watty

        • breaks on 06/08/2014 - 15:58
          +1

          No, 80 degrees may sound like a lot because we find that unbearably hot. We're talking about silicon chips here and this CPU architecture can handle 100 degrees before damage. In the unlikely event that it gets to 100 degrees, it has in-built protection that will throttle speeds to prevent damage.

        • watty on 06/08/2014 - 16:03

          @breaks: Awesome thanks for the info. I just did some browsing and found the this case: http://www.mwave.com.au/product/cooler-master-haf-912-combat…

          I might switch to that because the airflow looks better.

          Thanks again Breaks

        • breaks on 06/08/2014 - 16:18

          @watty: That's a good case but it might be overkill in your case (pun not intended).
          I myself have an HAF 932. Good case with 3 massive (230mm) fans. It's huge and I've only been using about 50-60% of the space and features. Stupid heavy too.
          The K280 has adequate airflow, just throw in an extra fan on the side panel close to the GPU for good measure.
          If you do decide to go with a CPU cooler, get this one; it's just a tiny bit better than the cooler master 212 evo but costs the same.

        • watty on 06/08/2014 - 17:26

          @breaks: That's fine it's overkill, i'm happy to pay more for a better quality/better airflow case. Plus, the size of the case gives me options to upgrade in the future and it's only about $30 bucks more expensive than the initial cooler master case i had my eyes on. Will change the cooler because it says it's a silent fan (why not right haha). Thanks Breaks, you have been a big help! Watty

      • ammark19xx on 06/08/2014 - 18:45
        +1

        I re-iterate, the stock cooler will work perfectly well.

        Agreed. As I said, if you can tolerate temps being at that level, by all means, stick to it. But the option is there, that for $24 at MSY, a Cooler Master Evo TX3 is a nice choice that isn't terribly expensive. If you want an aftermarket cooler on the cheap you might as well buy this and install it when you're assembling the PC the first time, rather than go through the hassle of deassembling and reassembling it later.

        Interestingly, I was reading up on the Devil's Canyon thermal material on Anandtech. Their conjecture is that it is now likely to be a Zinc Oxide ceramic type material that is whiter than the silver material from Ivy and Haswell. However, they did mention that as per a previous in-depth report, it was the height from the core to the heat-spreader that is more of a problem for Haswell. Either way, this is a different topic altogether.

        • watty on 06/08/2014 - 18:48

          Yeah, I'm going to buy a cooler, might as well as it's not that expensive and hey, it's cool to be cool ;)

    • This Guy on 07/08/2014 - 15:59

      The Intel stock cooler has undergone a ton of revision. They moved from square blocks to the current round shape, then with Core they added a copper well. Then they moved to a vapor compartment at the high end. Intel reduced high end power from 130W down to 84W so they ship with slim line aluminium heat sinks, because anything more is a waste of money at stock speeds.

      The only problem I've found with stock intel heat sinks is that their fans may fail after four years. However I've had the same problem with aftermarket heat sinks.

  • worldwidehappiness on 05/08/2014 - 19:49

    My tip is to buy the best quality mother board from a reputable dealer. If the motherboard is DOA or malfunctioning, then it's a pain to pull everything out and start again.

    • watty on 05/08/2014 - 21:51

      Hmm that sounds very true. I'm not sure which mother board to upgrade to though. I heard good things about gigabyte/msi/asus but do you know one that is $150 or below that you can recommend? Thanks

      • worldwidehappiness on 06/08/2014 - 17:21

        I bought all my gear from the cheapest guys in that big computer centre in George St Sydney, and two things didn't work properly. But the real problem was the motherboard. To prove it didn't work, I had to drag in the whole box and check it then narrow it down to the motherboard then pull each part out. It was an Asus too, so it wasn't so much the brand. The problem was probably about grey imports, and that it was the motherboard. If it was just bad ram or any other part, it's easy to replace. So I would only buy the best quality motherboard from a reputable dealer. Even better if you get them to put it together so that they have to test the whole thing and kind of guarantee the whole unit.

        • watty on 06/08/2014 - 17:29

          I get what you mean and it sounds like that would be much easier for me. But I do want to try building it myself or with a mate so I can learn as well. If I do stuff up I'll take it out to the shops lol

          Thanks man! Watty

  • elli0t on 05/08/2014 - 21:16
    +1

    hey mate, if you're still after an OS (Win 8.1 Pro), you can get genuine keys cheap off Reddit (r/softwareswap). About $12-13aud

    Windows 8 Pro N $11

    Quote: Windows N versions are fully functional copies of Windows, except they do not include a media player, but it can be downloaded for free.

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