• expired

CASTROL GTX 20W-50 5L Oil $9.99 ($5 for New Members) This Saturday Only @SCA Club members only

50

Hi,

Just received their email along with new catalogue. Not a bad price at all for this product. Similar to Autobarn deal previous weeks.

If I'm not mistaken, SCA membership is $5 to join and you get $10 credit to spend. So basically its $5 for 5L of GTX 20w-50 !! Correct me if I'm wrong and I will edit this.

20w-50 weight is not really recommended for modern vehicles, for your info. "API SJ/CF. Superior sludge protection for greater reliability in older vehicles" CHeck owner's manual first.

Hope that's all the info we need.

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closed Comments

  • +1

    Ok, I noticed many comments of similar deals that this oil are no good for cars within 10 to 15 years from now. But if you have a think, 10 bucks (or 5 for newbies) gets you:

    • Unlimited oil for household use, lubrication, drilling etc
    • Use it for other car servicing needs
    • Engine flush when you change oil (suppose your engine can take 20w-50) Basically put it in, runs through engine for 15 mins and drain (Not recommended for the environmentally minded)
    • and many other uses..

    Just a thought

    • Good suggestions, but I personally don't see any issues with using it as an engine flush. I do that with the costco oil that they had on special in quart sized bottles and I also use whatever cheap oil I find like this on sale from time to time. It cleans out your engine better than just a drain of the old oil once. Therefore you probably get better economy and less emissions etc. And certainly longer engine life, which means less cars having to be built from scratch again, so I reckon on the whole, that's quite environmentally friendly.

    • I do like the idea of using it as an engine flush.. How much crud would you potentially be getting out and is it worth the effort/money?

      • Hi mate, i used to buy castrol 5.5L bottles and only use about 4.7. So I kept the remaining. People say dino oil is no longer good after 6 months, so I used that remaining 0.8L to push the old oil out when I change oil. So just left the drain plug open and poured that oil through the filler hole. It came in gold and came out dark.. Imagine if i had enough to run the engine through for 15-20 mins.. So i think a lot of dirty oil is still in the engine after the drain, im sure it is worth it for older engine.

        P.s. Im not a fan of engine flush additives so for me, either do this or nothing at all.

  • The linked page says $9.99 is for Club Members only. So please amend title?

    • Thanks. Already did.

  • +1

    A good multi-viscosity choice for use in V twin engines such as those found in Harley-Davidson motorcycles where a 20W-50 API SJ, CF, CG-4 or CH-4 quality oil is specified. Also suitable for use in Triumph and Victory other motorcycles where an SAE 20W-50 viscosity, API SJ, SH, SG, CH-4, CG-4, or CF oil is specified

    • I though motorcycles use 2 stroke oils or something?

      • +1

        mostly 2 stroked are dirt bikes (tho they come in 4 stroke as well)

        most road bikes are 4 stroke as well such as the ones mentioned above

  • -3

    Who in this age gets a car engine built from scratch once it is expired. No proficient mechanics and not to mention cost prohibitive to rebuild engines. Drive your car to nominal kilometers and dispose of it. Enjoy your car for @200,000 km then move to a newer model.

    • +5

      perhaps i feel it is better for the environment that i keep my 314,000km 24 years + 10 month old car running than merely "disposing" of it, much like everything else in this disposable world?

      i have a great mechanic who's honest and knows what he's doing. his charges are reasonable, even for me, working only part time.

      besides, i love my old car. has all the features and comforts i actually need and no unnecessary nonsense to interfere with my driving. i do oil changes and minor repairs myself. my mechanic also loves older vehicles — out of his many cars, his 1996 merc SL500 is the newest. he says they're also simpler to work on. newer cars i.e. late 90's and up are bogged down with increasingly complex electronics which [surprise!] will inevitably fail and cost more money/time to fix.

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