SOLVED - New TechFast Custom PC CPU Overheating on Startup 100c+

Rukiata on 26/04/2025 - 23:32
Last edited 28/04/2025 - 16:38 by 1 other user

So I have had issues with this PC. Had loose wiring at the back but found out there is more of a bigger issue, not only did it not come with a GPU support backet like it was ad in the listing, it came faulty. The CPU is overheating, skyrocketing over 107c on cold boot-ups; this is not normal; this is a damaging zone. I have just noticed this, and glad I have not used the PC much, but I have left it on overnight a few times. I am a tad worried about the CPU now. I have searched Google and can't find anything.

I have tried to update the BIOS to the latest, all drivers, and all Windows 11 updates. Nothing seems to work with that. I checked the cables on the motherboard, it seems normal. I have a picture of the aio cooler.

Yes, I have emailed their support, no reply. Does anyone know what their warranty is like? I will have to ship back the whole PC, not sure how long it will take to be fixed. They don't seem to be replying much right now. Nor the OP on here.

I have tried to play with a setting on BIOS to allow full speed on the CPU fan aio, but still nothing. Same issue.

Odd thing is it goes down to 38c after a while, like after I open up a game like ffxiv, after a few minutes it drops in temperature and acts normal. I restart the PC, or power on and off the PC, and it has a fine temperature sitting around 40c, but when it's off for a while and I turn it on, that's when the spike in temperature starts, this is SO ODD. Does anyone know wth is going on? Looking for some IT brains, or someone maybe had this issue before? The PC is not usable until I fix this, worried it is damaging the CPU. I have disabled apps on boot up as well. This PC has barely been used.

Some specs. I upgraded to the 360 AIO cooler master and upgraded to a better MSI air flow case with 4 fans. All fans spin. Only two are picked up, though. Well, 3 counting the AIO.

Faulty CPU? Faulty AIO? Settings issue? Cable issue? Maybe even motherboard issue? If it's a software issue, I can try to fix it, I just don't want to pull apart the PC.

UPDATE: I think it's fixed. im not sure yet, YES there is a settings in BIOS yes this motherboard sucks for AIO and this build. I changed FAN Control Mode, from AUTO to PWM and now it works. fans on full speed always though.

Computing Computer Desktop Computer

Comments

  • MS Paint on 26/04/2025 - 23:41
    +4

    If it's reaching 107° on idle then I'm guessing there's probably no thermal paste.

    • Rukiata on 26/04/2025 - 23:47

      it goes down to 35° though.. and stable.. I ran a whole benchmark once It was settled.
      https://i.imgur.com/oIaxabs.png https://i.imgur.com/MKzaO1Y.png
      To scared to do this while its overheating though.

      • MS Paint on 26/04/2025 - 23:50
        -4

        If you're really concerned try under volting to see if that keeps the max temperatures down.

      • AustriaBargain on 27/04/2025 - 00:52

        Are you sure it's actually idle?

    • ATTS on 27/04/2025 - 18:00

      Does thermal paste regulate cpu temp? And does this apply to laptops aswell

      • MS Paint on 27/04/2025 - 18:22

        They don't regulate temps but act as a thermal conductivity barrier between two pieces of metal.

        • ATTS on 27/04/2025 - 18:43

          I c thanks

  • Hybroid on 27/04/2025 - 00:07
    +1

    Your constant stream of mishaps & panic issues with electronics is fascinating.

    upgraded to a better MSI air flow case

    Was this a TechFast upgrade or DIY? If latter, this may be a strong culprit of when something went wrong. Regardless, try ensuring everything is seated properly and refreshing the thermal paste.

    You also haven’t specified if these are quick blips of high temp spikes or continuous for a period till they drop down.

    • Rukiata on 27/04/2025 - 07:48

      TechFast upgrade. I have not messed with parts. its all TechFast parts and upgrades.

      It lasts until I open up a game then it drops after few mins I stated this

  • Postal Dude on 27/04/2025 - 00:15

    What was the loose wiring? Does sound like an aio issue, maybe a loose or wrong connection. Or maybe they left the plastic on the pump or applied thermal paste wrong, either way I'd send it back if you don't want to mess with it.

    • Rukiata on 27/04/2025 - 07:56

      if thats case why does it drop to 35c after opening a game and stay stable? it only happens on cold boot up as well until I open a game.

      • Postal Dude on 27/04/2025 - 12:16

        Because it’s a low cpu usage game, when starting pc or opening a game it’s boosting the speed.

    • resubaehtgnolhcs on 27/04/2025 - 01:46
      +14

      OP hasn't got an intel CPU … you need to stop relying on AI

    • CrispyChrispy on 27/04/2025 - 11:46

      most helpful OzB comment

      • n3ck3ntry8bort0rgasm on 27/04/2025 - 17:43
        -5

        and all the other comments are extremely helpful?

        not many comments seem to know what was even going on.

        • CrispyChrispy on 27/04/2025 - 18:50
          +3

          The other comments are relevant. Yours is completely irrelevant because OP is not using an Intel CPU.

  • freefall101 on 27/04/2025 - 00:54

    You should have kept contacting Techfast to fix it, not fix it yourself, that's what the warranty is for. The "loose wiring" is just all kinds of worrying though.

    After replacing the AIO and case, did temps improve?

    My guess is the pump isn't kicking in quickly enough, or there's just a bad temperature sensor somewhere that's not reading properly on boot. Any AIO has a pump to move the water, if it's not moving then it doesn't matter what the fan is doing. The loose wires weren't connected to the AIO were they? Or a temperature gauge?

      • Grunntt on 27/04/2025 - 08:22
        +2

        honestly got bad voted for saying "don't do it if you don't know what you are doing, PC's aren't like building legos" but this is what i mean.

        So, would you not agree then that people who make the following statement shouldn't be offering their comments too?
        Especially one that didn't read, or possible understand, the specs supplied. (Your total reply was based on the totally incorrect family of CPU just in case you missed that).

        again I'm not experienced with PC's or a I.T. expert but I think I might know what the issue is.

        and then follows it up with

        here is what the ai spit out.

      • CodeXD on 27/04/2025 - 08:38
        +6

        Quit while you're behind buddy.

    • Rukiata on 27/04/2025 - 07:53

      I did not upgrade the parts myself, TECHFAST did it lol. it was connected to GPU I was getting no display issue at first.

      Pos of buying a PC with shipping, I am scared to even send it back. wonder if it will get damaged further. but again they have to reply to email first. they have no phones to call which is sus.

  • kaybrr on 27/04/2025 - 06:54
    +4

    I think your issue is the CPU cooler, specifically the software part in BIOS.

    I would investigate the pump speed & fan speed in BIOS.

    I think what is happening is that your AiO pump isn't running until whatever Windows control software TechFast installs starts using it…
    So hence go to BIOS.

    • Rukiata on 27/04/2025 - 07:53

      I said in post I messed with BIOS and put it on full speed. the fans are loud. there is no pump settings, there is no pump header on this motherboard

    • MrThing on 27/04/2025 - 10:28
      +2

      throw out the AIO and buy an air cooler like phantom spirit

      AIOs aint all they are talked up to be

  • scrimshaw on 27/04/2025 - 09:23
    +7

    If you want the most expedient way to fix your overheating issue, you could just go on Amazon and buy a Thermalright Assassin (or similar variant) air cooler for between $50 to $70. Then replace your coolermaster AIO with said cooler. Problem solved.

    However my theory regarding your intermittent and 'sometimes okay, sometimes not' AIO is that there is a big air bubble in the pump block of the cooler. When an AIO cooler is installed in certain configurations, specifically, where the top of your radiator is lower than than the position of the pump block, air will naturally want to rise to the highest point of the loop. And that would be pump block, where your heat source is.

    If air makes its way there your pump block 'runs dry' and there isn't enough water making contact with the cold plate, so your CPU temperature rises dramatically, since there isn't enough water to properly conduct the heat.

    The problem may resolve itself over time when the air bubble somehow gets pushed by water currents and ends up inside the radiator instead, but when the pump is turned off, (no water currents), the air bubble just make it's way back into the pump block again if it is the highest point. So when you switch on your PC again after being turned off for some time, the CPU overheats right away.

    I highly, highly recommend reading this article by Corsair on how to position radiators in PC cases

    • GordonD on 27/04/2025 - 18:47

      The OP's spec says the AIO is a CoolerMaster MasterLiquid 240L Core ARGB. I was going to suggest that if it has an air bleed valve the case could be positioned so it was the highest point, and any air bled out.

      The bad news is that that model AIO doesn't have a bleed valve.

      The even worse news is that the OP's image of the inside of his PC shows an AIO that doesn't look anything like the CoolerMaster web site's images of that model CoolerMaster product.

    • Rukiata on 28/04/2025 - 08:11

      here another picture, is it installed right? https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1365338730466119811/1…

      one tube gets hot, the other is cold i feel vibrations I think it's working?

      • scrimshaw on 28/04/2025 - 11:01

        According to corsair:

        One good mounting position is to mount the radiator of the cooler at the frontal area of the case interior. The side of the radiator where the tubes connect should be at the bottom, and the pump should be mounted in a position where it is slightly lower than the top of the radiator, where air is captured.

        So from your picture it looks like the tubing is at the top of the radiator, and it's not the optimal position in terms of performance. Tubes at the top is generally acceptable but it will cause a bubbling / waterfall noise and air bubbles will potentially get sucked in to the tubes and into the pump, meaning the motor needs to work harder to draw water from the radiator. This affects the cooling performance and longevity of the pump.

        Here is a diagram showing you your current setup with tubes at the top.

        https://www.msi.com/blog/how-to-place-your-liquid-cooler#:~:…

        MSI has some tests that show you what happens to temperatures when tubes are either up or down and radiators in different positions of the case.

        The tubing in your case looks kind of short, so it may not be possible to turn the radiator upside down to rectify the problem. I don't know what your case model is but in some its possible to mount the radiator at the top of the case (esp. ones with a full mesh top). Top mounting the radiator will solve the issue and you won't be limited by the length of the tubes.

        • 2025 on 29/04/2025 - 00:23

          WTF dude that radiator is on top none of what you’re saying applies lmao

  • 7ekn00 on 27/04/2025 - 09:54
    +2

    Air bubbles in the AIO … common transport problem once built due to placement and gravity issues …

    They won't clear until the pump / fans ramp up … but then reset to default air bubble position when turned off :/
    (especially when pump is above radiator, you don't show radiator placement in pic, but I am betting it's positioned LOWER than the pump)

    Will need replacement/rectifying with builder :/ (Or as above, replace with a cheap air cooler yourself - probably cheapest, quickest option)

    For transport, air coolers (when packaged properly with support cause they are heavy) are always a better bet when purchasing whole systems!

  • ATTS on 27/04/2025 - 18:01

    Op curious how u measures cpu temp is it with a program ?

    Also does the fan sound louder when cpu overheats?

  • Kelvin on 27/04/2025 - 19:28

    I wonder, if someone forgot to remove the plastic film, covering the base of the cooler — the one that says.. remove before installation.

    I vaguely remember somebody receiving a system once, and you could see the plastic film, sticking out..

    It made for a good photo…

    I thought it is in one of the many techfast threads scattered around..

    P.S. Your photo shows the DeepCool logo, not the Coolermaster One… did your receipt invoice a coolermaster 360, or just a genereic AIO 360

    • Rukiata on 27/04/2025 - 19:58

      Oh its deepcool genereic AIO 360

      • Grunntt on 27/04/2025 - 20:27

        I upgraded to the 360 AIO cooler master …
        …Oh its deepcool genereic AIO 360

        So did you get what you ordered/paid for or did they supply the incorrect cooler?

        Do you have any images that show all of the inside of the case?
        To me it looks like the pump is higher than the radiator connections - a full image may show if just flipping the radiator may help.

        • Rukiata on 27/04/2025 - 21:39

          I dont know what a radiator is and stuff nor where is and what is the pump lol? I got what I paid for I think

          • Grunntt on 28/04/2025 - 08:32

            @Rukiata: No problem.
            Does your order/invoice state that you ordered a Cooler Master AIO or a DeepCool AIO? (you mentioned that you upgraded to a CoolerMaster but the image shows a DeepCool AIO) Just wondering if you've been charged for something that you didn't receive.

            They're both reasonable units but just making sure you didn't get overcharged.

            Can you upload another photo of the insides of the computer that shows the complete setup?

            • Rukiata on 28/04/2025 - 08:39

              @Grunntt: https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1365338730466119811/1… maybe this i can take another picture.

              it don't say anything no brand name.

              • Grunntt on 28/04/2025 - 09:09

                @Rukiata: Thanks for the new image.
                Seems to be mounted the recommended way - radiator above the pump so any air should collect in the radiator and not effect cooling too much (unless they didn't fill it correctly/fully).

                To me it looks like there's either faulty hardware or an installation problem.
                Either way I'd be leaving it for the supplier to fix before even considering making changes yourself.

                When you placed the order how was the upgrade you mentioned specified? Is it shown on the order? If not, you may want to check if you were charged correctly.

                BTW if you turn your phone sideways you will have more chance of fitting the whole case in the picture.

                • Rukiata on 28/04/2025 - 16:37

                  @Grunntt: I think its fixed. im not sure yet, YES there is a settings in BIOS yes this motherboard sucks for AIO and this build. I changed FAN Control Mode, from AUTO to PWM and now it works. fans on full speed always though. this motherboard sucks.

        • Rukiata on 27/04/2025 - 23:21

          its a DeepCool LE720 360mm ARGB AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

  • rumblytangara on 27/04/2025 - 20:00
    -4

    If this is a new PC from a vendor, why are you 1) even trying to fix it yourself and 2) asking on Ozbargain instead of getting on the phone with the vendor?

    Stop messing about and potentially damaging the machine. Get on the phone with them.

    • Rukiata on 27/04/2025 - 20:04

      Did you read anything in the post>????

      They DONT have phone support lol. I have emailed them no reply.

      • Postal Dude on 27/04/2025 - 20:23

        When did you email

      • rumblytangara on 27/04/2025 - 22:41

        I have emailed them no reply.

        Like, right before a long weekend holiday?

  • jugsy on 28/04/2025 - 09:46
    +1

    Ignore all these people telling you to put in workarounds or buy new stuff. If you're not comfortable checking the cooler mounting and paste yourself, keep beating the Techfast door down til they fix this.

  • jk82 on 28/04/2025 - 14:56

    Honestly, with TechFast having the rep they've got, and being you actually managed to get a 9800X3D and a 5080, I wouldn't be spending months dealing with a return case.

    As the other person said, I'd be getting an air cooler (thermalright) and getting rid of that AIO. If that doesn't fix it, put the AIO back on and start a returns case then, but 99% chance that'll fix it right now for under $60.

    • Rukiata on 28/04/2025 - 16:36

      I think its fixed. im not sure yet, YES there is a settings in BIOS yes this motherboard sucks for AIO and this build. I changed FAN Control Mode, from AUTO to PWM and now it works. fans on full speed always though. this motherboard sucks.

      • scrimshaw on 28/04/2025 - 17:35
        +1

        100% fan speed would be noisy and it also somewhat defeats the purpose of liquid cooling, people spend money on an AIO for better noise to performance ratio.

        Let's explain some computer basics. Your AIO has some fans. These fans connect to mobo via the fan header(s) thats marked as CPU_FAN or AIO_PUMP. Here's a video of it. However, the fan cables can itself have 3 or 4 pins.

        3-Pin Fan Headers (uses Voltage Control). The speed of a 3-pin fan is controlled by varying the voltage supplied to it. The motherboard can increase or decrease the voltage on the +12V pin, which in turn changes the fan's RPM.  

        4pin fans are PWM (uses Pulse width modulation), these fans have their speeds changed by way of a PWM signal that is sent between the fan and fan controller. The motherboard continually supplies the same 12 volts constantly on the +12V pin, and the PWM signal is what controls the duty cycle of the fan (via signal sent over the fourth pin). This mode of speed control is more precise and is sometimes used on higher quality and more expensive case fans. Especially ones with lighting because they need constant voltage for LED lights.

        The setting you were playing with simply tells the motherboard which mode of control should be used. If you changed the mode from AUTO to PWM, that basically tells the motherboard: forget about auto-sensing the fans that were connected and force PWM mode. In this mode, if your AIO fan has only 3 pins, the fans will just go full turbo all the time since they are receiving the maximum 12v of power.

        • Rukiata on 28/04/2025 - 18:05

          they probably used a SYS_FAN port. there is no AIO pump port on this motherboard.
          Would you suggest getting a new motherboard?

          • scrimshaw on 28/04/2025 - 18:17

            @Rukiata: It is not mandatory to have AIO Pump port. You can have the pump cable attached to a normal CPU_OPT header, and infact it is also okay to attach it to any fan header on the motherboard.

            Here is the manual for LE720 for instance, it doesn't really matter if you don't have Pump header
            https://files.ozbargain.com.au/upload/10382/121196/cpufan.pn…

            Are the fans connected separately from the pump? If the fans are connected via a breakout cable (which is depicted in the manual — it's the one cable that splits off into 3 ends) that means you can have 3 fans attached to a different header while the pump gets it's own header.

            That way you can change the RPM of the fan and the pump seperately in the BIOS settings. You can tune the pump to work faster to move water around quicker and the fans to spin slower to reduce fan noise for e.g

            • Rukiata on 28/04/2025 - 18:20

              @scrimshaw: i have no clue i have not checked that far its all hidden I don't feel like digging to find it lol

  • 2025 on 29/04/2025 - 00:40

    Sorry you won’t like this, because you need to figure out where the cables go, but scrimshaw has good advice about the fans and pump connectors.

    You’re gonna wanna atleast trace the pump and fan on the radiator cables to avoid sending it back. Figure out which headers they both lead to. Make sure the pump is not on the same header as the fans. Easy fix, set pump to 100%. Then set a curve for the radiator fans, based on CPU temp. Eg cpu <30, 10%, >90, 100% (get your own numbers, I haven’t owned AMD since the K6)

    If they’ve done something completely insane like got the pump with the same header as the fans, find a way to connect the pump separately.

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