ToolPRO Digital Torque Wrench 1/2" Drive $149.99 (Was $242.99) + Delivery ($0 C&C/ In-store) @ Supercheap Auto

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Had my eyes on this so naturally got advertised this deal via an unrelated google search as soon as it dropped.

Yes I know it's still more expensive than your average analogue version, but pretty fancy bit of kit for a good price.

Pros are can change between the various measurements on the fly.

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Comments

  • +2

    20-200Nm for those wondering.

    • -1

      20Nm minimum a bit high?

      Also, is there a half decent Ali Express version out there (all tools are basically Chinesium these days anyway)?

      • +1

        It's about typical for a 1/2" drive torque wrench. While you can get slightly lower for 1/2" on some brands/models, you'd probably want a 1/4" or 3/8" torque wrench for that.

        The Kinchrome torque wrench I have is 30-340Nm.

        • +1

          Good point since it's a 1/2"

          Funny that we still have a Nm wrench with inches drives.

          • +5

            @tunzafun001: Well the imperial part is just the coupling between the tool and the socket, it's not used for measurement, the socket itself can either be metric or imperial. It would be stupid to create a whole new standard just to have a metric system in this case. Unless you just wanted to keep the same system and just rename it to 6.35mm, 9.525mm, 12.7mm…

            • @Karmond: I can’t remember if I was reading a euro or jap tool catalogue but one of them did list as 6.35mm drive etc. instead of imperial.

          • @tunzafun001: It is not an Nm only torque wrench. You can set it to ft.lbf, or in.lbf or kg.cm.

            Also, square drive is an defined in standard ANSI B5.38-1958, which is American, and hence its size is in inches. Do you want to say "I need a square drive socket"? Or do you prefer "I need a twelve point seven millimeter square drive socket"?

      • +2

        They're also only calibrated at 20-100% of their max torque so you wouldn't want to use this below 40nm

  • +3

    Great buy especially if you are just a hobby mechanic. I found it particularly useful when you need to torque a reverse thread bolt, the traditional torque wrenches will only do CW. I would imagine these units are similar to that you would find on Vevor or Aliexpress. Also the a digital torque wrench will have a "torque to turn" max reading, which is great for setting Diffs and measuring resistance.

    • All the cheap mechanical torque wrenches that I have come across are roughly calibrated for torque in both directions. It is only the high accuracy ones which are direction-specific, but those would be for use in aerospace and other highly critical applications.

      • I have a truly old school torque wren that has a big needle pointing back at a printed scale, that definitely works both directions

  • I tend to over torque with this
    Also quite unlikely to do precisely for example all your lug nuts will be at a slightly different torque since you will over torque for sure

    • How do you know you’re over-torquing? As in go slightly past the beep?

      • It has lights as well. And before you even know it, you are already over

        • Muscle man! - I'm just jealous lol

        • Just slow down? This would be a problem with any type of torque wrench.

        • If you struggle with precise hand movements set your torque a bit lower.

    • +2

      The issue is not the torque wrench, but what is connected and driving the torque wrench. :p

  • +3

    Does anyone know if this also has a torque angle setting?

    • +2

      Came looking for this comment. I've fudged plenty of 90° turns over the years with my eyeballs but would love a wrench with this feature.

  • +1

    I'd go this WARREN & BROWN Screen Torque Wrench over any ToolPro ones at that price.

    https://www.totaltools.com.au/96678-warren-screen-torque-wre…

    • The screen torque wrench is not digital, despite the word "screen".

      A very useful feature of digital torque wrench is real time torque reading, so you know how much further to go.

      Using clicky torque wrench for high torque setting is a bit uncertain sometimes, when already very tight but not yet clicked and makes you wonder.

      For that reason, would prefer defecting beam if not digital.

      • Good to know that my wrench is a deflecting beam. Bought it way back when I had to torque my rear axle bolt on my motorcycle, definitely didn't want to muck around with that one

        • I bought a torque wrench for the same reason, to tighten the rear wheel nut on my Speed Triple, had a hard time tracking down a 46mm socket back in the day.

          • @browser: Haha, I had the same experience, had to buy a torque wrench and a big socket for my bandit 1250, I don't think it was 46 but it may have been 38 or so. My dad had a full sidchrome imperial set from the 70s which I was hoping to use but it topped out lower than the bolt size so had to buy one on its own for a hefty price. I think I ended up getting it on eba for 24 bucks a d that was a clear 14 bucks cheaper than the next cheapest at the time for one single socket

    • 1-year warranty vs. 3-year warranty.

  • +1

    Seems like bad value even at discounted price? Why would you go that when you buy this for $140? In the realm of tools obviously chinese made equivalent might as well go for value.

    https://www.vevor.com.au/digital-torque-wrench-c_10816/vevor…

    40% longer which is huge, has a much higher range of torque (though starts from a higher starting point, having a better high end I imagine would be more useful), also notes how many teeth it has, which the toolpro does not. Vevor wrench has the same amount of teeth and comparable torque range to the similar spec gearwrench one.

    • +2

      Vevor cheaper here

      • Right? What does the toolpro one have on this one?

  • Mmm tempting

  • is this good for torquing engine head and cam bolts? for Subaru flat 4

    • +3

      Yes, but the car will just blow another head gasket anyway so don't bother 😂

      On a serious note, you might want a smaller one depending on the amount of toque required, the size of the head of the bolt (not so much) and the amount of room you have to turn it

  • -1

    When changing my cartridge oil filter, spark plugs, lug nuts, sump plug, rocker cover… the torque setting varies slightly each time I do it.

    I aim for tight but not so tight I will strip the bolt head or thread, or break anything. Of course tightened by hand.

    • That's because the oil filter, spark plug, sump plug and rocker cover nuts all have a compressible washer/seal underneath. So when it compresses, the torque varies.

      • lol.. what I mean is that I don't have a torque wrench… I do it all by feel :D

  • +2

    Torqued to spec or cross threaded, tight is tight

  • -1

    Shop local, shop Australian, shop Warren & Brown torque wrenches instead.

    • Beautiful sentiment, but absolutely not. $209 at total tools, its not digital, and while it has a higher torque range, its not what most of us home gamers really need here.

  • Can anyone please suggest a tube/box spanner to remove pillion Footpegs on cl500 motorcycle that is fitted with 2x 12mm nuts on both sides. Normal pipe spanners used for plumbing does not work at all. Thanks

    • Not familiar with CL500. But wouldn't you just need a 12mm spanner and a ratchet with 12mm socket? Usually part of any decent toolset.

      • Yes just a 12mm spanner and ratchet or Tommy bar. Can you please recommend something suitable? I tried with the Bunnings craftwright set and the nut will not budge..

        The nut needs to be accessed with a Tommy bar as it's vertically mounted.

        • Maybe take a picture.

          Toolsets usually come with extension bars and universal joints to reach tricky spots.

          • @browser: Sure here you go: https://imgur.com/a/2N8US6e

            Thanks

            • @zxcvb: Looking at the parts microfiche, each foot rest is affixed by 2 M8 bolts (part #17), they are usually 13mm AF, so you would need a 13mm socket unless these Honda bolts are special.

              You don't need a spanner in this case, just a ratchet wrench with a short extension bar and a 13mm socket to undo all 4 bolts (both sides).

              • @browser: Thank you so much for taking the time to look this up. Just to clarify I meant removal of the entire pillion foot peg assembly, not just the foot peg. It's the first photo where the foot peg assembly is mounted to the bike frame bar.
                This video references the exact part at 2m:23s

                https://youtu.be/qMSKTct_MN8?si=dpH5t5LEjmGqWhty&t=2m23s

                He says 12mm for the two bolts for each side

                • @zxcvb: Interesting, if you are certain 12mm is the correct socket, do you know if the foot rest was removed before and possibly over tightened when reinstalled?

                  Another option is wait until next service and get the mechanics to remove them, shouldn't take more then 5 minutes.

                  • @browser: Unlikely, I purchased the bike brand new at 0km. I've only ridden. 200 kms as of now.

                    Yes will check it out at first service at 1000 kms. Thanks

  • Newbie listening in to see what's best to remove tyre lug nut

    • +3

      You don't use a torque wrench to remove lug nuts. You only use them to do the final tightening. They will lose calibration if you use them a lot for loosening or mistreat the wrench eg drop on concrete.

      • Thank you! I appreciate it.

    • +3

      To remove: use a long breaker bar with the correct size socket to break the lugs loose. Then undo them the rest of the way either by hand or with a regular ratchet.

      To put back on: thread them on by hand, then use a regular ratchet with socket to tighten them until they are snug (hand tight). Then use a torque wrench set to the right setting to tighten them up till it tells you to stop.

      Do some research and watch a few videos as its easy to over tighten (and risk snapping a stud) or under tighten (and risk the wheel falling off on the road).

      • I appreciate the response! I got caught unprepared last time with a flat so need to grab a breaker bar!

        Have a great one mate.

    • This breaker bar with the correct sized 6-point socket that matches your lug nut size will definitely get it off. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-breaker-…

    • if you already have one of those 4-way/cross wheel braces, then that will do. to loosen it easily, just stand on the horizontal part with the back of your foot i.e. your toes facing away from the wheel. your bodyweight is free, no breaker bar required :)

      remember to do this when your car is on level ground with the hand brake on.

      what i like about those cross braces is you can spin your nuts off and on really quick. (just don't get your face too close)

      nothing against breaker bars, especially if you're going to do other work on your car. but they're heavy so you might not be so inclined to have one in your car at all times. get one of these tyre plug kits for your car as well: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-8-piece-tyre-rep…
      (I prefer the Slime-branded t-handle over the pistol grip style but that kit's $47 rrp so wait for a 25% off sale..?)

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