Muller Energy LiFePO4 Batteries $999-$2199 (Save $100-$350) & Doubled Warranty to 10 Years @ Muller Energy

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Muller Energy LiFePO4 Batteries $999-$2199 (Save $100-$350) & Doubled Warranty to 10 Years @ Muller Energy
Go to Deal
Store RepMullerEnergy on 18/02/2025 - 11:33 mullerenergy.com.au (282 clicks)
Last edited 18/02/2025 - 14:00 by 1 other user

Given how generally reliable our batteries have been over the years, we've made a decision to double our warranty from 5 years to 10 years on all Muller Energy batteries.

Does that mean that you'll be paying more for your batteries? No, the opposite is actually true! We've slashed prices by between $100 and a whopping $350—so have a look!

Product Was Now
Muller Energy 12V 105Ah LiFePO4 Battery $1099 $999
Muller Energy 12V 105Ah LiFePO4 Slimline Battery $1149 $1049
Muller Energy 12V 200Ah LiFePO4 Battery $1779 $1549
Muller Energy 12V 200Ah LiFePO4 Slimline Battery $1749 $1599
Muller Energy 12V 300Ah LiFePO4 Battery $2249 $1899
Muller Energy 24V 105Ah LiFePO4 Battery $1749 $1499
Muller Energy 48V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery $2299 $2199

As always, I will be more than happy to answer any questions you might have! Let me know if you need help choosing the right battery for your setup. 🙂
Thanks,
Ruben

Electrical & Electronics 105Ah 12V 200Ah 24V 300Ah 48V Battery LiFePO4 Lithium Lithium Battery Rechargeable Battery

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Muller Energy
Muller Energy

Comments

  • Gamer Dad Reviews on 18/02/2025 - 11:40
    +2

    Thanks bro, but I'll probably just buy a Kings 120Ah LiFePO4 for like $250 on special.

    • Store RepMullerEnergy @ Muller Energy on 18/02/2025 - 11:46
      +3

      To be fair, Kings have improved in quality over the years. It's still very much an apples and oranges comparison in terms of quality and features (and obviously price), but they are getting better.

  • skid on 18/02/2025 - 11:46
    +2

    Thumbnail looks tops

    • MS Paint on 18/02/2025 - 11:47

      Came here looking for this comment. Wasn't disappointed. 9/10 would search for this comment again.

    • Store RepMullerEnergy @ Muller Energy on 18/02/2025 - 11:49

      You come for the thumbnail, you stay for the deals!

      • MS Paint on 18/02/2025 - 11:53

        The thumbnail doesn't actually link to the deal you are offering. It starts with solar blankets and battery holders.

  • MS Paint on 18/02/2025 - 11:51
    +1

    Why is there a $700 difference for this battery

    I'm genuinely new to this tech and not aware of differences.

    • FLICKIT on 18/02/2025 - 12:05
      +1

      You get what you pay for with lithium batteries, cell quality, BMS quality, build quality…. The cheapies have their place, perfect for weekend/casual non-critical use, but you wouldn't install a $300 cheapie if you were sailing across the Pacific or doing the Canning Stock route where you're going to lose all your fresh food if your battery fails… and such…

      • MS Paint on 18/02/2025 - 12:07
        +1

        I'll keep this in mind for my Pacific crossing in 2029. Cheers

      • wfdTamar on 18/02/2025 - 14:07
        +1

        That is very true, but the 'good' ones are vastly overpriced. It's a bit like HiFi stuff - to get the best you pay inordinately more.

    • Store RepMullerEnergy @ Muller Energy on 18/02/2025 - 12:49
      +4

      Good question.
      There are already some answers, but here's mine.
      If you just have a simple load, the battery in an easy environment and you don't need it to last for over a decade, by all means, go for the cheapie.

      The difference is in both the workmanship and in the components.
      Cheap batteries almost always use storage grade cells while we use automotive grade cells.
      The difference between them is that an automotive grade cell has passed all mandated tests, while a storage grade cell has failed one or more tests. Much of the time, that's not an issue in the short or medium term, but it's often an issue in the long term. The problem is that you don't know which test it failed or why.

      We also use a 150A JBD smart BMS, so you can run a 1800W load (including a 2000VA inverter) without an issue.
      With the smart BMS comes functionality such as a shunt to count how much charge is left in the battery. You can access this information via the included touchscreen or Bluetooth. They also allow you to see cell voltages, temperatures, current flow, etc.
      You're also able to disable discharge on the screen, which is a great idea if you're installing the battery or working on your electrics in general. If you accidentally short the positive and the negative while discharge is disabled, nothing happens.
      If however you short out our battery with it enabled, the BMS quickly disables discharge without causing any damage to any of the battery components. In theory this should also be what happens with cheap batteries, but it's definitely not always the case.

      Then we have our 304 stainless steel case. You could probably park a car on one of these without causing damage.
      The case also has feet that can be attached on the front and back or on the sides for easy installation.
      Plus you can now get a bracket to mount your DCDC and/or MPPT to the side of your battery (though they are $50).
      Inside the case, there's an air proof compartment and a venting port to make AS3001.2 very easy. With the cheap batteries, you're strictly speaking often not allowed to install them into a habitable space (I know many are still installed when they shouldn't be though).

      And then you have way may more ways to connect to our batteries.
      Apart from the screw terminals, we also have a 175A and two 50A Anderson connectors, all of which can be used for either input or output. Then we have USB C and USB A charging ports. Two of the USB C ports are 65W, so you can charge a laptop/iPad directly off the battery without using an inverter.
      And then finally up have the cig sockets and a merit socket.
      All of these are internally fused and if you ever blow a fuse, you just have to undo four screws to pull out the panel to replace the fuse. Should take less than two minutes.

      There's probably something that I've forgotten, but these are the reasons why ours is substantially more expensive.

      • rooster7777 on 18/02/2025 - 14:17

        Having bought a number of different batteries over time, with various problems…. I'm happy with the single cased 48v lithium muller sells.
        I suggest that anyone seeking to put any 12v lithiums in series to get 24v or 48v are likely to have battery destroying problems. If a single BMS doesn't control all the batteries in a system, or if there is no inter battery communication, voltage imbalance can be a battery destroying nightmare. Various suppliers suggest their products can be connected in series…. I'd steer well clear of them.

        PS… your new website upgrade is a little…. confusing.
        For example, unless I specifically searched "48v" I couldn't find any 48v battery on your site.
        Someone has pointed out in a comment that your header shows 105ah 12v and 24v batteries as being the same price…. which I think is a fork up.

  • Mccann25 on 18/02/2025 - 12:10
    +1

    There are a lot of differences, all down to quality of parts used, the really cheap batteries use pouch cells, with a cheap BMS that will have a limited current draw, i.e. you may have a 200ah battery that can only draw a max of 50ah, depending on your use that may be fine for you.

    The more expensive batters use higher quality prismatic cells, a lot better BMS (usally has bluetooth support) and tend to last their rated charge/discharge cycles, and usually come with a better warranty and support. And if your camping out in the middle of nowhere, that $700 is worth it for the reliability, I know!

  • dna level c on 18/02/2025 - 12:11

    Muller Energy 12V 105Ah LiFePO4 Battery

    Why is this battery $999, in comparison to other batteries we see around here for sub-$300? Even Aldi has a Gentrax battery that is $299 currently.

    Why are these batteries worth paying 3x-4x more for?

    Genuine question

    • MS Paint on 18/02/2025 - 12:16
      +1

      Information is here

      tl;dr - get one to sail across the Pacific

      • dna level c on 18/02/2025 - 12:47

        That link sent me back here lol

        I think these batteries are way more than I want/need if they're designed to sail across the Pacific.

        • MS Paint on 18/02/2025 - 12:48
          +1

          It should take you to my similar question a few threads up and the relevant explanation.

          • dna level c on 18/02/2025 - 14:42
            +1

            @MS Paint: Okay, I see now, thanks.

            Good luck with your sailing trip in 2029

  • ruprectaus on 18/02/2025 - 12:19

    These all have in-built BMS yeah ? DO we still need a charger between the battery and the solar panel ? If so, what is the on-board BMS doing that the charger isn't ?

    • FLICKIT on 18/02/2025 - 12:24
      +1

      The BMS is just for protection, over charge, over discharge, over/under temperature protection, and such, it doesn't regulate the charge voltage, profile, or such… A typical 12v solar panel puts out like 17v-22v, the solar controller regulates that higher voltage down to the ~14ish volts needed to charge the battery at the optimal voltage, and such…

    • Store RepMullerEnergy @ Muller Energy on 18/02/2025 - 15:43
      +1

      We will actually release a video on this shortly.
      Spoiler below:
      .
      .
      .
      .
      .
      .
      With our batteries at least, you can use solar panels directly connected to the battery, as the MOSFETs in our BMS can withstand the voltages that the solar panel puts out. However as the battery will pull down the voltage to the battery voltage, without increasing the current, this is a very bad idea from an efficiency perspective.
      Further, I have to state to only ever do this in an emergency and don't do it with batteries that haven't been tested to withstand it.

      TLDR: Don't do it, just get an MPPT or at least a PWM.

  • MauTauAja on 18/02/2025 - 12:22

    LiFePO4 Batteries for the rich

    • FLICKIT on 18/02/2025 - 12:35

      Kinda, if you're spending $100,000 or more building up a 4x4 for overland travel, which isn't unusual, spending a couple of thousand on batteries that are going to last 10 years isn't such a big deal… (these batteries are way out of my price range but I can appreciate what they are)

      • MauTauAja on 18/02/2025 - 12:52

        I bought Volt 12V 120Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Battery Rechargeable Deep Cycle RV Camping from Ebay 6 years ago and it still going strong.

    • Store RepMullerEnergy @ Muller Energy on 18/02/2025 - 15:44

      I'm not disagreeing that they aren't cheap, but the reasons for this can be found in a comment above.

  • ezzaf on 18/02/2025 - 13:13
    +1

    Muller Energy 24V 105Ah LiFePO4 Battery $1099 $999

    Looks like a typo, same price as the 12V. Closest I can find is https://mullerenergy.com.au/product/muller-energy-24v-100ah-… for $500 more

    • Store RepMullerEnergy @ Muller Energy on 18/02/2025 - 15:09

      Thanks for that and appologies, I have fixed this now. Unfortunately the higher price was correct. I think I just saw "105Ah" and thought of the 12V version.

  • tunzafun001 on 18/02/2025 - 17:34

    Hey op,

    Looking to replace my Aux battery in the boot of my plug in hybrid.

    Got anything in a smaller form factor (25 - 45Ah range)?

    Any thoughts on having a LiFePo4 in the back of a car? (battery, stock being a vented AGM, sits under the boot floor).

    • Store RepMullerEnergy @ Muller Energy on 19/02/2025 - 13:03

      Unfortunately we don't have batteries smaller than 100Ah.

      As for being in the back of a car, yes, that's absolutely no problem at all. We've got hundreds of our batteries out there that are installed in campervans, caravans, 4WD, etc.

      • tunzafun001 on 19/02/2025 - 14:08

        Any insights into insurance etc?

        As public belief still being that a lithium battery will burn your car to the ground.

        • Store RepMullerEnergy @ Muller Energy on 19/02/2025 - 14:21

          I'm not aware of any insurance being denied because of a lithium battery.
          I do have some information, but it's probably not exactly relevant to a normal car, but it's hopefully an indication of where things are heading. Please see a post I made in our lithium facebook group earlier this month:

          Had an awesome time at the expo today, lots of great conversations with fellow campers, adventurers, and industry pros. Always great to chat with people who are passionate about off-grid travel and battery tech!

          But I’m also looking forward to a future conversation… One of the largest campervan, caravan, and motorhome insurers approached me today for a meeting. They want to take a common-sense, risk-based approach to insuring vehicles with lithium batteries and really understand the actual risks involved.
          I think this is a movement in the right direction, and I’m encouraged that the insurer sought me out for this discussion. It’s great to see a major player in the industry looking to base their policies on real data rather than outdated assumptions.

          I’ll be preparing a presentation for them, covering:
          The very different risk profiles of lithium battery types (NMC vs. LiFePO4)
          The importance of AS/NZS 3001.2 compliance

          This is a big step forward, and I want to make sure we cover what really matters to those using lithium batteries in their setups.
          So, if you’ve ever had insurance concerns related to lithium batteries, let me know in the comments! What would you like me to bring up in this meeting?
          Let’s work together to make sure insurers have the right information to support the future of safe and reliable lithium power!

          • tunzafun001 on 19/02/2025 - 17:33

            @MullerEnergy: Thanks mate for taking the time to send this. Much appreciate it . I'll ring Allianz / CGU etc and see where they stand.

            Can you see any reason not to use a LiFePo4 in Plug in hybrid / electric car?

            It doesn't do any cranking. Biggest draw would be the DC contactor and the windows when the car isnt in on mode.

            I do run a 2.5w inverter, with some tools that pull 2100w.

            So thats 175 amps. But I run them with the car on, and the DCDC convertor can provide 200 amps.

            But I do notice it does raise the AGM battery to 14.95v (I guess lowering the amps).

            Could this be an issue with a LiFePo4 battery. Ie do they cut out with a feed above 14.8v , so the circuit would be open and not work?

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