LED Downlight Push Button Dimmer & Light Switch ,Trailing Edge $24.99 + Postage ($11.95 to Metro) @ The Lighting Outlet

180
SECRET2

Extra 5% off using Code: SECRET2.

The extra 5% discount code pretty much made the postage free for me. $11.95 Postage in Sydney for 6 I bought.

  • Maximum Load: 350w
  • Minimum load: 10w
  • Operational Voltage: 220-240v
  • White Colour
  • Fits standard plates
  • Suitable for electronic transformers and LED drivers
  • Soft start for improved lamp life.
  • Compatible with most lighting sources including LED
  • 2 wire design
  • One way operation

Combines on/off switching and dimming control into a single mechanism, making it easy to use and highly efficient.

Smooth, linear dimming: Gradient-free transition between brightness levels.

No separate on/off switch needed: This dimmer has it all in one, so you don't need to worry about installing multiple switches with multiple buttons.

Wide compatibility: The Touch 2 in 1 DIMMER SWITCH works with most downlights and lighting sources, including LED, so you can use it in a variety of settings and applications.

In Australia, you need an electrician to install this for you at higher than a heart surgeons per hour rate because a $100,000 Ford Ranger Raptor with a lift kit for the wifey isn't cheap and a holiday house in Fiji cost's a lot of money to maintain. Also because if you were born stupid, you can die mucking around with electricity. Also stupid people do not know they are stupid which also increases their chances of death.

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Comments

  • +1

    The reason I bought the Aldi smart LED downlights was because they can be dimmed via WiFi which negates the need for expensive dimmer switches.

    • Depends on how many you need. We have 9 downlights in the living room, 6 in the kitchen, so it's cheaper to get two of these

      • -2

        And I just got 12 AliExpress LED downlights that are pretty much identical to the ALDI ones for <$6 each.
        Thanks for the negs.
        OP feels thus deal is great and just wants to protect the "bargain."
        I could be a f-wit and neg the deal but I won't.

        • +4

          show us the link son

        • -1

          @Crownie I didn't neg vote your comment mate. But now I will, for false accusation. lol.

      • We have 9 downlights in the living room, 6 in the kitchen

        Wow you must have a massive house!!!

        • +2

          They were originally halogen lights, they have less light coverage than the newer LEDs, so they used to put more per sqm. When we upgraded, it was easier to just put LEDs in the holes rather than patching them up (Very high ceilings)

  • +8

    I have to up vote this post for the maximum emotional damage to those self entitled union sparky😂. There are still a lot of hard working sparky out there that charge a fair price

    • +4

      Pretty sure domestic sparky's aren't really unionized…

    • +8

      I just had 33 downlights switched over from halogen to led.

      Some wanted $90 per downlight for the swapover, one wanted $110. They said it didn't matter if it was replacing existing or putting in new. This is absolutely ridiculous, as there's no need to measure and cut holes, run cabling etc etc.

      Found a handful that are doing changeovers from $60 and new from $80. They smashed through the changeovers pretty quickly, so still feels like the hourly is insane here - but it is what it is.

      What I don't understand though is the large variance in price for something relatively standard. How are these guys getting away with charging so much?

      • +1

        Swap a ceiling light for a ceiling fan going rate is $220 each, they knocked over 2 in 45mins.. fixed price work is massive markup

        • +1

          Jeez, I just had 5 ceiling fans swapped over for a bit over 600 bucks (AC to DC). 220 each is crazy.

      • +2

        They get away with it because the Electrical and Plumbing industry is protected in Australia. You cannot do much apart from change the light bulb in Australia by law.

  • -8

    These are around $10 on AliExpress- which is pretty much where all these light shops source their chinese-made products.
    You don't get the faceplate in picture.

    • +4

      Do the Aliexpress ones come with proper Australian safety marks and check certifications? Genuine question. If not, you can say goodbye to your house insurance policy buying Aliexpress ones even if you are right and these are all the same from all manufacturers. The Australian certification and safety mark is important.

      • -5

        The sparky will ensure the safety of the kit.
        That's why they make the big bucks.

        • +9

          Yes, they will ensure the safety of the kit by refusing to install a non compliant device.

          • -5

            @The Hobo: Just get the same installers that converted Victoria to the LED light scheme.
            I'd be shocked if the actual Chinese lights from Bunnings are any different to the AliExpress ones.

            • +1

              @Crownie: Nobody is denying that they're likely the same manufacturer and same product, but the lack of compliance tick could result in insurance issues if something were to go wrong.

              I'm all about saving $$$ and happily buy stuff off aliexpress, but if it's something to do with electricity or plumbing, I ensure that they comply with Australian standards so that the insurance companies can't weasel their way out of a claim.

        • +7

          So Crownie, you voted this deal down because you can get Aliexpress ones for cheaper? With no Australian certification? I would rather buy from an Australian store like this one with proper safety and pass certifications for Australia on the product and keep my house Insurance policy intact. Your Aliexpress ones will probably not have Australian certifications.

  • Stupid question but if I have 1x downlight in a room that is 8.5W can this be used if minimum at switch is 10W?

    • -6

      you are right about the first part

  • +1

    So weird question - we have a bunch of shelly relays (like this, but the older model I think - it's a bit smaller and rounder - EDIT, I found an old deal that sold them here - these are the ones we've got), which lets me control the lights using a smart device. But, the bonus of these ones is that we can also control them manually, which means that no matter what state the light is in, we can always turn the lights on/off with a single press of a screen/switch, and we don't have to tell our non tech family how to use it since they just use switches. We were thinking of maybe changing the switches in our place from our old style switch to something like these switches.

    I was wondering if anyone knew anything about the blue on light for these. I'm guessing it's an indicator to tell you whether the light is on or off? If so, does the shelly relay mean that the switch will always have power, and the indicator will always be on? Or does it mean that the indicator turns on/off for every push - i.e. is it possible to turn the switch on from the wall to turn the lights (and indicator) on, but then if I use my phone to turn the lights off, the indicator might stay on? Or is it able to be linked to the state of the shelly, so the indicator is only on when the light is actually on too? Sorry for the silly questions, I'm not an electrician and have no idea how any of this stuff works!

    Thanks in advanced!

    • +1

      I ripped out all my wifi smart connected ceiling lights / switches 1 year ago. The most useless temperamental things ever and no REAL improvement to life use case. Now that is my opinion, other full on smart home addicts might think different and is actually useful to their use case scenario. I noticed that I never need to switch on a room ceiling light and not be there. And if I am there, it's easier to flick a switch vs dictating to my phone or using the app. Amazing idea in theory but actually useless for ceiling lights for me. I only have smart lights for table lamps and I only bought ones that work directly with iPhones as I do not want 3rd party Apps to control it. For that I use Meross Homekit smart plugs. No Apps needed, works directly with iPhone HomeKit. Those get used a lot as during the night when we come home and no lights are on, the table lamps are switched on from hallway to bedroom on dim without us needing to switch on any lights and makes opening the door and walking straight into the house to the rooms easy. Only use case I have ever found for 'smart lights'.

      • That's fair, but as you said, people have different use cases. The shelly relays I have are all local, so they're fast and not internet reliant, so no server it needs to contact, meaning we can use them even if the internet is down (this is one of the main issues with smart things - if they have a server to talk to and have issues and delays, or your internet is having troubles, you suddenly can't use your device, but having it run locally means none of that. It's the same technology Apple use for their homekit stuff - it's all local so you don't have to wait for a server, and it's so nice not having to worry about things being slow or not). Also we've got some door sensors around the place - mainly our garage, so if we open the internal door to the garage or if we're coming home, the light turns on. Same for our laundry since it's off the garage and a little dark. The coach lights turn on if the garage light turns on and it's after sunset, and if the garage doors are all closed, the lights automatically turn off after 10 minutes, which makes it very nice to not have to worry about the garage.

        Also inside, if none of the lights are on when we get home, opening the door turns on some lights inside so we can get sorted, which is pretty handy, and all of this is instant and quick. Also if we're eating dinner and want to watch something, we can turn off the lights while being comfy on the couch which is a nice small QOL thing. I also have a way to turn the aircon on/off/change temp/setting etc from afar, which is nice because now when it's a hot day and we're out shopping or something, I can turn the aircon on from afar so it's cool when we get home but saves us power throughout the day, which has been nice!

        I definitely get that they're not for everyone, but for us, we've loved having it for the basics - and this is without even being a smart home addict!

      • +1

        If you're having to even think about switching a light on/off, let alone having to use an app or voice command then I wouldn't call that a smart home. You mentioned Meross, they do have a presence sensor, well more of an advanced motion sensor that's fraction of the cost compared to the Aqara FP2, that's good enough to use it to control lighting, although the sensor does require a power point outlet for constant power.

  • -2

    Trailing Edge.$24.99

    I prefer Leading Edge switches.

    • +2

      Not sure if you're trying to make a joke or not here - Leading edge dimmers are a thing, but not usually preferred these days.

      • but not usually preferred these days.

        All my dimmers are leading edge… I expect nothing less…

        • +1

          I suggest you look into something cutting edge for your next upgrade.

    • Unfortunately this is not designed for LEDs

      • -3

        I use halogen.

  • We bought a heap of the Havit CRI>90 downlights, and spent the extra ~$20 on the Diginet Adaptive Phase Rotary Dimmer $44.95. These worked on our old (old!) Clipsal GU10 LED downlights, and will dim the Havits down to zero. Perfect for our lounge, where we can vary the lighting pretty much infinitely.

    • GU10 LED downlights,

      I got Hue ones and can dim each individually and change the colour temp using the iphone app…

    • Yea but you you will need a separate light switch for those.

  • I would rather have a knob, feels better in the hand and is more responsive.

    • +3

      Yeah, Knobs respond well to hands.

      • You win.

        • It was a fast finish but left me satisfied.

  • +1

    Don’t forget the dreaded flicker in LED lights with dimmers which is caused by ripple control in NSW and QLD.
    https://www.led-drivers.com.au/blog/ripple-voltage-injection…

    Ripple filters are expensive and do not always work but they may reduce the flicker.
    Chaning to smart lights was the only thing that worked for me.

    Found some info here
    https://www.reddit.com/r/AusElectricians/comments/17vnucy/le…

    • I recently had a battle with ripple effect on dimmable LEDs on Shelly Dimmer 2. Swapped the LED lights to HPM Zyla Flicker Free and no more flicker when dimmed. Expensive at $27-30 (recessed is more expensive) but it solved my problem. There is also a cheaper version from Clipsal TPDL1C3R but it stated the light is compatible with leading edge dimmer so I didn't take the risk.

  • +1

    I love watching that ripple at midnight - seemingly when it kicks more in for me in QLD

  • Can the soft start be disabled ? I think it will give me the shits turning the lights on and waiting for them to get bright

    • +1

      It's not what you think it is. Soft start is like a few millisecond delay. Instead of a surge of power going to the LED it's a 'soft start'.

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