Electrical Safety of an Old Electric Frypan

I'm using a almost 40 year old electric Sunbeam Fry Pan that was given to my parents. This thing is the Toyota Corolla of kitchen appliances. It never dies and is built to last.

After I finish cooking and turn it off there is a split second arc or white spark I can see inside the power point, just behind the on/off switch. I have changed power points and the same thing occurs.

The appliance contains a 3 pronged plug and appears to be earthed.

One time as I recall, I yanked the cord out instead of turning off at the switch and it tripped my fuse box. Possibly leaking current?

Is it safe to use? I'd hate to throw away a very sturdy and well made kitchen appliance but I don't want to kill myself either!

Comments

  • +1

    turn it off

    Is this on the appliance or at the switch

  • If the sparks are in your powerpoint, then you need to replace the powerpoint.

    The frying pan is probably fine unless there's arcing damage to the pins

    • I have already replaced the power point and tried others around the house.

      • It's probably a loose or abraded wire within the plug of the power cord. Replace the plug.

        You could also get the appliance test & tagged. It's not expensive.

  • Does it have a removable temperature controller?

    • Yes, the temperature control is integrated on a removable power cord. I might be able to replace if faulty.

      • They're pricey BTW, I understand this may not be your exact model.

        • So it seems. I can probably find one eventually at the many household rubbish cleanups I sift through haha
          Also, I'm a muppet because it is in fact a Sunbeam brand (made in Australia) but very similar to the product you linked.

  • +4

    Are you turning then appliance off or just turning it off at the powerpoint? Not unusual for some powerpoints to spark when a high current appliance is still drawing power.

    • It doesn't have a dedicated power switch. The plug is rated for 7.5 amp. So it's a high power draw.

    • Agree with this

  • Is it not tripping the safety switch?

  • +7

    I don't see how a little arcing could create a safety problem. It probably used to be normal.
    Your pan must be an inductive load. Modern designs would use capacitor to reduce such arcing.
    Don't worry about it. Worst outcome is the switch fails.
    To avoid arcing, just turn down the thermostat before unplugging.

    • Great advice. Thank you.

    • That actually works. I turned the thermostat down to "simmer" which is the lowest setting. I did not experience any arcing when subsequently turning off at the mains.

  • +2

    Get an RCD and turn it off from there, rather than at the wall.

    • +1

      Excellent idea

    • +1

      This is actually a great idea, for general electrical safety. This should reduce the risk of electrical shock. The theory is that the device will monitor the in and out of current, and if there is an electrical current imbalance, the RCD will trip, isolating power to the device. Warning, electricity is not a toy and should be respected and used responsibility, electricity can kill!

  • Who was trying to kill your parents?

  • +1

    Turn off the appliance first. It's switch will be designed to handle opening a circuit with high current.

  • New one $80. That $2 a year.

    Don't you think you've gotten value from the old one, and perhaps it would be erring on the side of caution to buy a new one?

    Oh, and someone still fries things in a frypan I thought everyone had an air fryer.

    • I use it for pancakes and stir frys. My air fryer is indispensable too.

    • You think a new one will last 40 years? As the kids say, 🤣

      • +2

        Kmart Anko quality?
        Yeah, no chance!
        All the budget frypans seem to be made from horrible teflon these days. Nothing beats stainless steel for food safety and longevity.

        • +1

          Those vintage electric frying pans are made of aluminium though. Just heavier than new ones, and without any non-stick coating.

  • Cut plug off cord. Fit new plug. Enjoy the sturdy appliance.

    • I'm not sure if the plug is the problem. My friend is an electrician. I'll get him to test for me with his special device.

      • +3

        If it's that old, it might have brass pins instead of the chrome plated brass in current use.

        Brass occassionally gets tarnished, and forms a high resistance joint which can lead to arcing. You can give it a bit of a polish with a rough sponge (prob best to chuck it out afterwards) and that should help improve the contact

        • Preferably disconnected from the PowerPoint!

      • There are only two parts, and you've ruled out the socket as being the issue.

        You aren't unplugging it while the element is trying to heat up I assume?

  • +1

    What about using a powerboard with a safety switch… turn it off at the board first.

  • +1

    If in doubt, throw it out. Due to wear and tear of the device's electrical wiring system, it could be safer to get a new device. If you find a breach in the wires or expose wiring, throw it out, this is an electrical safety hazard due to water getting in and short circuiting.

    However, if you want to keep it, I would take it to an electrician or a person that knows about testing and tagging. Only use device if it pass the test.

    I would ask for the following to be tested:

    Based on the device being class I due to you reporting it has three pins on the plug (earth, neutral and live)

    Visual Inspection
    Earth Resistance Test
    Insulation Resistance Test
    Earth Leakage Test

    An RCD would be a good idea, if your house's electrical system doesn't have one installed in the electrical board.

    • +1

      Thanks. My friend is an electrician. I'll get him to test for me with his special testing device.

      • If possible, I would get him to check your powerpoints too. Could be old or faulty and need replacement. Good luck mate.

  • For any electricians or engineers, could this be an arching issue with the old pins used on these devices?

    • +1

      High resistance joint causes heating, not arcing in a remote switch.

      Arcing is a result of a high-voltage (much higher than 240V) across the newly open contacts, caused in the normal case by inductance. ie. current really wants to continue!
      Any big inductive load such as a motor, without measures to stop it, will cause arcing when a mechanical switch breaks the current.

      If OP is seeing arcing when the heating element was already off from the thermostat, something very odd is happening.

  • +3

    Does this have a thermostat? It sounds like it's stuck on which would cause arching when breaking the the circuit. Try turning it off on the thermostat and see if it's still heating.

    • +2

      I agree. It sounds to like OP isn't turning the thermostat dial all the way down to the off position before they try to unplug the appliance.

      • +1

        I did this. Problem solved. TYVM.

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