Toyota Kluger 2015 Good Price? Need OzBargain Consensus

I've come across a family friend wanting to sell there 2015 Toyota Kluger GX as they are upgrading.

They are willing to selling to me for $18,000 with 89k on the clock. One owner, full service history and they will complete the next service prior to selling to me.

Couple of questions.

  1. Anyone heard of reliability issues past 100k? I see a lot on car sales between 150-200,000 kms but is that cause they are passing on their issues

  2. From research it appears that 18k for 2015 Kluger is decent but hard to compare exact km and age. Any red flags on the price before I pull the trigger.

Hoping to get the next 5-8 years of usage out of this car. It'll be used primary on weekends and family outings as I use a provided work car for short trips to the shops during weekdays etc.

Cheers.

Comments

  • +9

    Do a pre-purchase inspection to get your answers.

    https://www.mynrma.com.au/cars-and-driving/car-servicing/mob…

    • Oh nice! Didn't know about this
      Thank you

      • +3

        Not sure why anyone buying a car worth over $10k doesn't do this.

        you'll be surprised the dodgy stuff people do, and this will help you either (a) determine what that is so you can run away or (b) find issues that you can use to get a lower price on the car.

        • +4

          This will be my first second hand car so never really knew or looked into this before as I bought new.

          Seems like everyone should be doing this but if they didn't, we wouldn't be getting the entertainment we do on this forum 😂

          • +24

            @plmko: Declining getting it inspected looks like you have something to hide.

          • +17

            @plmko: lol… yeah, ok champ.

            One of the biggest red flags a seller can wave is “you’re not inspecting my car at this price!”

            One day later another buyer paid a deposit on the spot

            I’ll pick “shit that never happened” for $500 thanks Alex…

            you could be setting yourself up to miss out on otherwise great cars.

            Nope, the moral of that story is “avoid sellers who won’t let you inspect their car, because the chance they are trying to hide something is almost certain. Walk away and find a better seller.”

            • +7

              @pegaxs: plmko reads like a hewhoknows alt account.

          • +11

            @plmko:

            I would never let anyone do an inspection on my cars at that price. In fact a few years back I declined on a buyer and they decided not to go ahead.

            considering there is literally no cost or risk to you, it's clear you knew something was not right with your vehicle.

            Not really, $18k is not expensive for a car

            a very small % of people can just dump $18k on a depreciating asset that will become a money pit

            you are paying for services that are incentivised to find issues that aren't really.

            Literally the opposite.

            Sounds like you sell lemons and don't want to get caught out.

          • +2

            @plmko: How does getting a mobile qualified inspection done at the potential buyers cost hurt the selller?

          • @plmko:

            he could recognise an excellent car.

            He could recognize an excellent car because he was an experienced mechanic, or because it looked shiny and could see the tyres were inflated?

          • +2

            @plmko: When I was young, I nearly bought a car that was made of two cars welded together (rebirth) for 25k. The REVs check came back with no accident history. I paid for a pre-purchase inspection and saved a lot of heartbreak, though did have my life threatened by the seller when I asked for my deposit back after I called him out for lying.

            Pay for the inspection unless you're willing to lose your money. And think twice buying a car that's under market value from Punchbowl.

        • Not sure why anyone buying a car worth over $10k doesn't do this

          You’ll be surprised how many people don’t even have 3rd party insurance.

    • +14

      PPSR first, inspection second

      • +2

        ozbargain first then everything else after that!

  • +20

    Cars slowly dieing after 100k kms is so 1980s. FFS.

    Factor in fuel consumption. These things are thirsty.

    Price seems pretty fair. Good mates rate. I assume it's the 2WD version??

    • +3

      I drove a rental from Sydney to Brisbane with minimal stops, averaged 11L/100km, thirsty
      Check out the earlier models on ReDriven

      • +1

        We had a 2016 AWD and sold it within a year as we were averaging 15L/100KM around town. Beautiful car but getting barely 400km from a tank was painful

        • Fuel consumption can depend on driving style, mainly your right foot.

          • +1

            @CurlCurl: A Kluger in stop start traffic can easily get into 17-18L territory. I know, I have one

    • +1

      Ah thanks for the insight.
      I'm starting to see a lot well over 100k so I guess that's good signs

      Yep mates rate lol

    • +15

      But it’s a GWM

      • -2

        Shocking build quality….

      • Yeah agree
        I looked at a used Kluger at a dealership to gauge pricing and he then took me over to the new cars at LDV and said to get one instead.

        I'm not familiar with LDV but I think I'll stick with the Kluger

    • +1

      Or you could by a 9 year old Toyota that is almost certain to run another 10+ years without any issues.

      • This is seriously good advice. I just sold a 2001 Camry with 230k km or so and it runs like a Swiss watch at 23 years old. With the kluger being both reliable and a guzzler, you might find the older model doesn't use any more petrol and is just as reliable if not more.

        Also opens up the convo to Tarago and Honda Odyssey if it's the 7 seats you are after

  • +1

    These have 2GR FE engines, they are considered highly reliable. Kluger is a big vehicle with a big engine so this will have low fuel economy. But you will enjoy long-distance highway travel. You will not get keyless entry, leather seats and BSM in the entry-level GX version. I think you are getting a good deal, I found a 90K driven 2015 Kluger GX 2WD for $29,000 on car sales. Get a pre-purchase inspection from a mechanic or NRMA.

    • I just googled these yesterday and many reports of cam phaser issues unless they were resolved by 2015? The seem also prone to sludging if only doing short trips.

      • Did you mean the famous VVTI rattle?

        • Yeah but I see below post 2010 it was fixed.

          • @dirtybigbjelke: Yes, Toyota fixed this.
            I have this issue with my 2007 Corolla, which has a 1.8L 2zr-fe engine. I didn't bother changing the VVTI gear. It only happens in winter (cold weather), in summer or in hot climates, no noise. I googled but could not find the reason for this.

      • +1

        That was fixed around 2010 when they updated the engine.

        • Only issue I see now from reputable mechanics is oil leaks but the consensus was based off the highlander which is the US version of the Kluger so I'm assuming same car.
          I'll double check any oil leaks before buying

  • Why are they selling? Itll likely run forever, but will be thirsty. Are you sure you want to commit to a big thirsty V6?

    • Upgrading to a new model Toyota.

      I've thought about it but the price difference between this and something less thirsty might not be that much given the price I may be able to get this at.

      Also only weekends and long trips, I have a small hatch for work that I use for suburban driving to shops etc etc

  • +1

    Good price and the space/drive is excellent. Check on WOVR. But there never really have any issues with Klugers. Only negative would be is they are a bit thirsty on fuel.

    • A bit is an understatement. My mate has one and loves it, but he never wants to take it anywhere. In this era of hybrids and EVs, you wonder if the up front saving is warranted

      • Yeah agreed. Very thirsty to be honest.

  • +1

    Looks like a fair price. I've got an older kxs and it drives nice. A little thirsty but not crazy. It does prefer higher level fuel, mid or high tier. Runs smoother and more responsive acceleration.

    Water pumps are common, I did mine a few months ago. Rear lower bushes, otherwise it's a well made car. Would prefer the petrol 2gr-fe over similar KMs diesels too.

    • Main things I've heard Is to double check no oil leaks on the 2014-19 models and the water pumps so good to hear the insight someone has told me seems to be correct.
      Not much to replace the water pump?

      • +1

        Water pump is a tricky one, to do it by the book would require an engine extraction. Would guess a mechanic charging 1-2k or more for that. There's a work around that doesn't require the engine out, only propped up a little via a jack. This is the method I used, plenty of youtube vids showing how. I replaced top/lower rad hoses and flush too. Runs much smoother now I've completed the work, ~$300 for ebay pump, hoses, hose clamp, thermostat, coolant.

        • Why did it need flushing and new hoses/thermostat?

          • @JIMB0: Mine has done some KMs and had overheated at some point in the past (previous owner) and the 2 main hoses were buldging/swelling.

            If you're doing the water pump, it's a good time to throw in new thermostat which are another common issue. Did the accessories belt too, all cheap parts which is one of the perks of a popular car. I did a flush cause of its history and to know its done well, no log books with my bargain. Seller only had a single key, no remotes :)

  • +5

    Odometer seems pretty low for a Kluger of that age. There wouldn’t be many around at that distance. Seems awfully cheap as well considering the age and low km.

    Ask for service history and have a flip through the service records/book. If they have recently “lost it”, then I wouldn’t touch the car with a barge pole. If the whole service book looks like it was signed in the same pen and stamped with the same stamp on the same day, again, avoid it.

    100% get a pre-purchase inspection done. Get a PPSR done. Don’t pay for the car until you have seen it in person and have the keys in your hand.

    Don’t forget that if you do buy it, get them to write you out a receipt for the sale, as transfer of rego is NOT “proof of ownership”.

    Then, after you have done all that, don’t forget to sit down with your financial manager and see if they can get you a loan for the fuel repayments. You are going to feel like all you ever do is put fuel in this thing.

    • 3.5 litre V6 petrol pushing over 2 tonne will be thirsty, but as it will used mainly on family outings perhaps on weekends, go for it.

      There are low K vehicles out there.18 months ago my grandson purchased a one elderly lady owned 2017 Lancer with with 28,000k on it.

      • +6

        Lancer with with 28,000k

        28 million kilometers is nuts

        • 28 million kilometers is nuts

          Yeah, it's only just run.

          • +1

            @CurlCurl: only driven to church on sundays by a little old lady

            • +1

              @altomic: They are the worst cars to buy. Rarely get up to full operating temperature. Rarely go over 2k rpm resulting in carbon build up. Engine components are designed to be driven and lubricated.

              • @MS Paint: Owned a used lancer from 2014-2024. Was a 2008 Es auto cvt.

                Zero issues with reliability of engine or really anything majorly mechanical. Yes carbon build up was a problem here and there but not bad enough to say they're the 'worst to buy'. I drove it over 100k total (bought at 78, sold at 187). Perfect daily for a p plater or new driver tbh.

                Only the known issue with ABS module which I got repaired rather than replaced (saved 2k as a result).

                • @ReaperX22: I'm not bagging Lancers at all. They are great cars. I was bagging cars with ultra low mileage. Low mileage isn't all it's cracked up to be.

                  • @MS Paint: Ohhhh apologies. I misunderstood heh. All good! Get ya now! Yep agree. Low km is nice to a point, certainly!

                  • @MS Paint: Totally agree re: low mileage. It often means that the car does not get a service for 2-3 years, which is not good. Engine oil degrades with time not just distance travelled. Far better to get a car that has done 10-15,000 km per year with all services documented.

            • +1

              @altomic:

              only driven to church on sundays by a little old lady

              And the club Friday and Saturday, plus Aldi on pension day.

  • If it's in good nick with serving records it hard to go wrong at $18k. As others said its a bit thirsty but benefits outweigh the negative

  • +2

    Thirsty but "It'll be used primary on weekends and family outings", doesn't look like it should be an issue for you.

    Assuming the family friend is trustworthy and has a service history, I'd buy it after a test drive to make sure it drives ok. Just make sure it hasn't been in a major accident, written off etc.

    For $18k, I wouldn't bother with a pre-purchase inspection but that's me. It's a 9yo Toyota not a 5yo Merc or BMW.

    • +1

      I kinda agree. Pre purchase inspections make sense for all German cars and anything 'performance' that may have been thrashed or much older cars… A sub decade old Toyota? One owner? Nah I'd just negotiate best as possible and go for it after an initial in person inspection and maybe an online rego check etc.

    • +2

      DIY pre-purchase inspections? Fine for those who (1) can identify repaired accident damage and evaluate the severity; and (2) are interested enough in cars to do a little homework on the make/model they're buying. Buyers who don't meet these criteria should consider an independent assessment… or be willing to gamble the entire transaction value.

      • -1

        It's easy enough to detect accident damage that's been poorly repaired.

        It's a 9 yo car. Chances are it would have been involved in a minor accident. As long as it's been repaired to high standard it shouldn't matter too much.

        I do agree, if you don't know anything about cars, get a pre-purchase inspection just to be sure.

  • Decent price for the kms, I have a 2015 GXL with only 63K Kms, no issues whatsoever, only used on weekends and long trips, a bit thirsty but as said dont drive much.

    • Because it guzzles fuel

  • What's insurance like on these? Expensive?

  • Excellent deal, top car.

  • +1

    Go for it. They are rock solid.

  • Excellent deal mate. I own a 2015 Kluger Grande AWD from new, and its superb. 2GRFE V6 is rock solid, does not burn oil, very smooth, and enough grunt available on tap to get you in trouble with the law. The 2015 (and beyond) are a great drive, comfy, spacious, easy to maintain (by yourself too if you're so inclined). It does guzzle a bit of fuel though, at about an avg of 12L/100kms on mix or 10.5 L/100 on highway (sitting around 2100 rpms) whilst carrying a 4-5 adults. I personally am fine with that considering the power available on tap, the comfort, payload etc. Mix use you'll probably get 400-450km out of a tank, highway only you can stretch to 500+ kms. Comp insurance on mine is about $1300 with a 22yr old male on the policy too.
    As others said, test drive to see how you like it.

    • It can also do tow duty when needed provided it has the tow bar kit, have pulled a bunnings 8x5 tandem loaded with 300kg motorbike round trip from south west Syd to central coast, and hauled 1.2t car on car trailer to the track multiple times with ease.

  • There is only one major issue you must look for - oil sludging. Even the recommended service interval of 15K is too long, they'll slowly build up sludge if usage is primarily city driving with that interval. 10K oil changes are ideal in those conditions, you can stretch to the standard 15K if most driving is highway.

    • Specific to this car?

      • Yes. They all have the 2GR-FE V6 engine up until 2021 or so, which is also shared with the Aurion. This engine is known for sludging - a family member destroyed theirs by going a few thousand K's over the 15K interval a few times.

        • That Aurion was a dog and so was the Avalon

          • @Poor Ass: ??

            The Aurion was considered a pretty good car by most and so was the 2GR-FE engine - if you're very diligent about oil changes. Besides, we're talking about its application in the Kluger where it works harder hauling more weight.

            • @Dogsrule: Oil changes were done but as it was made in Australia the quality wasn't as good as the Japanese made one

              Low km and few years from new the tappet gasket needed changing but that could happen to any car but didn't expect to be that fast

              • @Poor Ass:

                Oil changes were done but as it was made in Australia the quality wasn't as good as the Japanese made one

                The Camry was assembled in Australia, but the 2GR-FE was shipped as a complete longblock from either the Kamigo or Shimoyama plants in Japan. Aside from those two plants it was made in Alabama and Kentucky, but those engines only went into US built Toyota's.

                Low km and few years from new the tappet gasket needed changing.

                Valve cover gasket failures are very common for many Toyota engines, my 1MZ-FE and 2ZR-FE engines both required replacement during my ownership of them. Aside from that, earlier builds suffered from bursting oil cooler hoses which was later replaced with a metal pipe from factory - Toyota make mistakes more often than people like to admit.

                The 2GR-FE is known to have sludging problems wherever they were sold, not just Australia - they are very hard on oil for some reason.

  • Only issue is V6 petrol thirsty otherwise car is fine

  • I have the 2012 7 seat model since new.
    Very happy with it. Just make sure you get good tyres.

  • Buy a used tarago thank me later

  • I have a 2018 Kluger with over 100,000 on the clock, and its an excellent car.

    I think your getting a great deal.

  • Used to have one, that V6 drinks fuel, 18l/100km around town.10-12 on motorway, Tyres exe on the fancy rims too.

    But it
    was solid and reliable.

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