Good price with the coupon code for one of the best cutting compounds, fix up your scratches and make your car good as new. Not lowest price but pretty decent
All the other meugiars products also on for a good price with the discount code
Ultimate polish:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/186209256644?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mk…
It's not as good as the M110 you can get in the states
Thankfully we can get it through Amazon. https://www.amazon.com.au/Meguiars-Mirror-Professional-Compo…
When UC is discounted, it's not far off M110 and you can achieve similar results, just slower.
I used this and notice hologram on my car (you can see them under the sun) anyone know how to remove them ?
Are you using a rotary or dual action or hand?
What sort of pad - foam, microfibre, wool etc?
I'm guessing it's a dark coloured car.
I polished by hand using a microfiber towel to remove some light scratches, luckily only a small area, and yes it’s a black car
Most likely poor technique using shitty cheap microfibre towels. As klf23 mentioned below you will need to polish out the side effects of compounding.
Your microfibre is putting the holograms in as well, but you should follow up with 1 more step since you are doing it by hand: https://www.amazon.com.au/Meguiars-M21032-Ultra-Finishing-Po…
You need to use a foam hand pad: https://www.meguiars.com.au/product/hand-applicator-pad/
Keep working it in without excessive pressure. When the compound goes from cloudy to clear/oily, then you wipe off gently with:
https://www.meguiars.com.au/product/microfibre-polishing-clo…
If you were applying the Ultimate Compound by machine, you can do it in one step if it was a lighter coloured car. I would progress to a less aggressive pad with Ultimate compound and work the compound for longer (one small area at a time) until it turned clear and oily. More time consuming than using the Ultra Finishing Polish, but you get to save $80.
I believe Meguiars UC is a diminishing abrasive which means the abrasive eventually wears smaller as you work the product. I've seen a lot of people not work the product enough by hand and not get into the polishing stage then left with marring/hologram.
Very rarely have this issue with a polisher.
@rainbowunicorn: Yes, you are right, the diminishing abrasive requires constant movement to break the abrasive down before the carrier liquid flashes off. Our arms just don't have enough stamina and "rpm" to do this in time. The only product that successfully does this by hand is ScratchX, because the carrier fluid is less volatile and gives a longer working time.
The compound is more abrasive than the polish and could leave swirl marks that can cause a hologram effect. I would try the polish and then a ceramic/wax protectant or similar to finish. The polish is linked in the post above.
Thanks will try to use a polisher to polish it and hopefully remove the hologram, it’s only small area. I think these products are great to remove scratches from older car but polishing a new car is not ideal as it can reduce the thickness of the paint.
Don't think it really matters new vs old car, if there's light scratches you need to compound to remove which will remove a light amount of paint. No difference if the scratch is on a new or an old car.
Compound is a second stage correction medium, it is a gritty compound intended to remove a decent amount of paint prior to moving to a gentler product.
Only the very gentlest of techniques (or gentle product) would leave a finish that wouldn't require polishing afterwards. Definitely need to polish afterwards if you're doing it by hand.
It's like sanding chrome with 2000 grit. Yeah it's gonna remove marks but it's not going to be reflective unless you follow up with a gentler medium.
How good would this be to polish out the UV damage on polycarbonate headlights? Or would it be to abrasive?
Not abrasive enough in the initial stages. You need to progressively use wet sandpaper 400,800,1000,2000,3000 grit. Then this compound. Then polish. Them wipe over with alcohol then ceramic coat.
Heaps of videos on YouTube with the correct process.
Clear coating straight after wet sanding will achieve a more permanent result. No polishing required if go down this path
Cheers
Wet sand then spray clear coat onto it, make sure to use a UV resistant clear coat.
I did 800, 1000, 2000 grit then clear coat. If you dont put clear coat the fading happens again in a few months.
You can get 2 pack clear in a can, personally I think it's the best option. Please wear appropriate PPE when spray 2k.
Indeed finish wise i think thats the best. But even if I wear PPE, I cant get my pets, family and neighbors to do so as well. So instead I just gone for an acrylic clear instead from Repco. Finish was pretty good but not perfect. With a cut and polish afterwards its perfect
It wouldn't be abrasive enough. And the petroleum distillates that may be in this compound are not good for the headlights (make sure you wash it after very thoroughly).
For UV damage, I use wet sanding with a drill attachment. Start with 800/1000, then 1500, 3000. Finally, you do a wash and wipe down with alcohol, before spraying with a UV-protecting clear coat spray like Dupli-color HLR or similar.
It is an extremely overrated joke item. I used it with dual polisher, it didn't remove any slightest swirl. A good rotary polisher's price starts over 1000 bucks. I use it to polish headlights it removes haze with gentle rubbing; and might use it as tyre shine. Tootpaste is best for headlights.
sounds like a skill issue
Haha, I have enough skills for it, it is not a rocket science. You need to sand before cutting it.
definitely a skill issue.
You might have hard paint (euro car?). Try a more abbrasive pad like microfibre or wool. I've had good success with this as a polish step after something stronger like The Last Cut or Schol s20, it has a good 2nd phase as it breaks down which finishes well once you master it.
The cheapest rotary will work fine. When I was actively detailing, I used a cheap and nasty Ozito rotary, with good pads. Worked fine detailing black cars for Autosalon.
Later on when I went for dual action polishers, the cheap ones were totally useless. I tried those Supercheap/Autobarn brands, which was a waste of money, and even those Bosch/Makita orbital sanders (also a waste of money, but I could use it for woodwork). Instead I needed to get a Rupes LHR15 to have something with enough orbit and forced rotation to get effective cutting action at a quick speed. With the Rupes, I finally could retire my 19 year old Ozito rotary!
Great product. Very little dusting and great work time. With right pad selection you can even finish with UC. No need for separate polish.
I tried this before with dual action polisher and Meguiars compound pad but didn't get rid of the small scratches that I wished to. Also I found it weird that after using this the panel looked shiny but after using Meguairs Ultimate Polish there a haze, which is quite different from what YouTube says.
Not sure how your experience is.
How do I use this and what is it for?
Check YoiTube videos.
There are a lot useful videos which explain and show its use.
Can anyone recommend a decon spray on sale please?
I always have used bowden's own three way and the price is dearer than Repco s price of $28 last week. Or any half decent iron decon, not brand fussed, at a good bargain!
Tia
Worst salad dressing. 1/5. Would not recommend.
![[eBay] Meguiar's Ultimate Compound 450ml $24.19 Delivered @ Sparesbox eBay](https://files.ozbargain.com.au/n/35/871435.jpg?h=a6ac3b3f)
I love this stuff. Amazing the results you get.