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XTAR 1.5V 4150mWh AA Lithium Battery 4-Pack with LC4 Charger $38.30 + Delivery ($0 Prime/ $59 Spend) @ XTAR direct via Amazon AU

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Fast charging lightweight cells. I haven't used any 1.5V Li AA batteries before, they might require a special charger but I'm not sure (in the current deal the charger is only $7 more than the 4 cells on their own). I also watched a video where they can cause radio interference with RC gear but that doesn't worry me. My use case is for devices that don't run well / or at all with the 1.2V put out by NiMH batteries and where I don't want to risk leaking alkaline batteries ruining expensive gear.

ATL according to the camels. Even if they are turn out to be superior, it'd be hard to justify replacing all my eneloops - as with many OzBargainer's, I am heavily committed in that regard.

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.

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  • +15

    Oh that's sneaky marketing using uncommon units

    Capacity: 4150mWh(approx. 2500mAh)

    • +22

      Wh is a much better unit, as the energy battery can store, not just a sneaky marketing. Otherwise, would you prefer to know the mAh of the original cell used in this battery, or after step down converter to 1.5V?

      The same with laptop batteries, if multiple cells are connected in parallel or sequentially, Wh would stay the same (related to how long the laptop would work) but Ah would be different. The same with car, the 800V battery may have half Ah compared to 400V battery, at a comparable range due to the same energy stored.

      • +3

        Agree, big batteries are measured in Wh. Only little batteries are measured in mAh which gets confusing when different voltages comes in play.

        If you want to trick a customer, it would be easier to trick them with the mAh figure than Wh where there's nowhere to hide.

      • +1

        Yeah I'm surprised we don't use Joules.

        • 14,976 Joules
          ( joules = watt-hours × 3,600 )

      • +1

        Ideally where Ah is listed next to an advertised voltage it should be the Ah at the advertised Voltage.

    • +10

      4,150mWh at 1.5V is 2,766mAh.

      For comparison, an Eneloop is 2,280mWh (1.2V, 1,900mAh). An Eneloop Pro is 2,940mWh (1.2V, 2,450mAh).

      It's uncommon but actually more useful as it takes into account voltage. Laptop batteries also use Wh when stating capacity.

      • +1

        The advantage of these 1.5V Li-Ion batteries are that the voltage is maintained for a lot longer above the minimum required for the device compared to Eneloop Pro's 1.2V. So you can get better usable capacity than an NiMH.

    • Thanks, I didn't pick up on that, not super high capacity at all. I removed that from the description.

      • Well they are quite a bit higher capacity than an Eneloop at low to moderate discharge currents.

    • +4

      I have these batteries, and in their defence, 4150 mWh and 2500 mAh are both printed in the same font size, side by side on the battery. So you can see both numbers at a quick glance. If you read it left to right on the battery, it shows 2500 mAh first, and then 4150 mWh.

    • +3

      The mAh reporting came about with NiCD and NiMH, because they had a voltage that was lower (1.2V) compared to alkaline cells (1.5V). Hence they used mAh to confuse consumers that they had the same capacity when compared to alkalines of the day.

      Alkaline AA cells had about 2200 mAh when discharged at 100 mA. So it would have been beneficial to figure out a way to report a similar energy capacity for NiCD and NiMH. For the same 2200 mAh "capacity", an alkaline battery would have 3300 mWh, whereas a NiMH would have 2640 mWh. Using mWh would have been disastrous for NiCD/NiMH, we would have stayed with alkaline batteries and it might even be possible that rechargeable alkaline technology would have been developed further.

    • +2

      Still kinda sneaky because while the lithium cells inside might be 4150mWh thats not what's usable after conversion losses.

      That's my review on the smaller 2700mWh ones. I ended up getting the 4150mWh too and running the same tests (only at 500mA this time) but never ended up adding a review.

      They averaged around 3300mWh and 2300mAh, although ran for around 1 hour at 1.1V and 500mA before shutting off vs the 8 mins of the 2700mWh version.

      Also to answer OP's query about chargers, yes they require a special charger. The LC4 one included will only charge these 1.5V Li-Ions, the L4 will also do NiMH.
      Same with the LC8 and L8 (to add further confusion there is also a BC8 which seems to be the same as the L8) The LC models only have a single LED indicator whereas the others have individual slot LEDs however for the Li-Ions doesn't matter as they have their own LED on the battery itself to indicate when charging is finished.

      • Still kinda sneaky because while the lithium cells inside might be 4150mWh thats not what's usable after conversion losses.

        I think the difficulty with stating a capacity is that the efficiency of the buck converter depends on the current drawn (as you know).

        Cell capacity is unfortunately not the most straightforward thing so I'm not sure if giving the best post-conversion-loss figure would be much better.

        I personally prefer knowing the cell capacity so I can guess the runtime myself based on typical converter efficiencies for the current I'd be drawing.

        Also to answer OP's query about chargers, yes they require a special charger.

        Interestingly the special part about the charger is that the charging circuitry is built into the cell, so the charger only has to send it plain ol' 5V.

      • XTAR's own website tells you what is usable, which is 3574 mWh from a table of test results of various batteries from www.akkuvergleichstest.de

        https://www.xtar.cc/product/xtar-aa-lithium-4150mwh-battery-…

        • Seems that is a better than average result, my test results aligned with those that eug posted above.

          Best case scenario of around 3300mWh, about 80% of stated (even worse than the 2700mWh ones at around 92%).

          Better than nothing I guess though none of that info is included on the Amazon listing. If they want to list them as 4150mWh be good if they at least stated 3300mWh @ 500mA or something, like many powerbanks these days that list the cell capacity and useable capacity.

  • +1

    What’s the difference between the OP and this xtar pack for $34.30? https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0C1FSXQKG/

    • +3

      2700mWh vs 4150mWh cells

      • Thanks. Without my glasses I thought the chart said 2700mAh cells.

  • How can a lii-ion battery be 1.5 volts when each cell is usally 3.7-4.2 volts?

    • +1

      I would guess a built-in Stepdown converter.

      • +1

        I wouldn't rely on these for high current applications

        • +1

          You're right it says on the page the max discharge is 2A.
          Eneloops can output more than that, im not sure how much but i've seen reviews test them at 3A.
          Looking at the math (max output of these is 1.5v x 2A = 3W and an eneloop pro is 3.06Wh), if you have anything that drains your eneloops faster than about 1hr/cell, these wont be suitable.
          So if your device takes 4 cells and only lasts an hour or something, stick with eneloops.

  • +8

    Main benefits of these are constant 1.5V output for the majority of the capacity. Great for devices that are voltage sensitive and need the extra 0.3V over what a 1.2V NiMH can give you. Also, I think some devices wont report battery charge remaining due to the constant 1.5V.

    There is an additional downside though, devices that are sensitive to RF noise should avoid using these. The step-down converters can generate RF noise which interferes with sensitive equipment.

    Surprised these are in stock, I looked a while ago and they seemed hard to find.

    • +5

      These also have a clever feature that drops the output voltage to 1.1V when it's running low to allow devices with low battery indicators sense the low battery. Looks like a good idea.

  • +3

    These work well with blood pressure monitors that don’t work with 1.2v rechargeables

    • -1

      No they won't last your better off using energizer batteries from my experience.

    • +1

      Which monitor? My omron runs just fine on 1.2V eneloops or 1.5V alkaline.

      • Beurer BM27 is one model that is super-sensitive to voltage. Mine only runs off Energizer Lithium AA batteries, refuses to work with most cheap AA alkalines (all rated at 1.5V).

        I wish more reviews would mention stuff like this, I had no idea that my Eneloops would not work with this.

      • Omron HEM7600T didn't run on eneloops so bought the AAA 1.5v Xtars a few months ago and it's been going great. Was fine on non-rechargeable lithiums and alkalines.

        Just grabbed some AA 1.5v's from the OP deal (thanks, OP!) for a HEM7361T

        • hmmm, ok. In my case, even tried using 1.2V vs 1.5 to see if it would show different values, but it didnt.

  • I have a smart door lock that hates 1.2V rechargeable cells because thinks they're nearly flat and gives low battery warnings all the time.

    I hate buying alkalines and just throwing them out every few months - reckon these would be a good substitute?

    Alternatively, does anyone know of Lithium packs that are designed specifically to be a drop-in replacement for a 3x or 4x AA?

    • +4

      I have a smart door lock that hates 1.2V rechargeable cells because thinks they're nearly flat and gives low battery warnings all the time.

      That actually sounds like a good use case as these stay at 1.5V until there's about 20% remaining according to this 500mA discharge graph from this review, when it drops to 1.1V so your device will report a low battery.

      The only question is what the self-discharge rate is and whether it'll be low enough to not be an inconvenience.

    • +1

      Yes they are a good option, my digital torque wrench went work with eneloops due to low voltage and I got these and they work fine

    • The amazon listing literally has a smart door lock as promo image!
      Is it actually the same as your lock by any chance?

      • No, but that's cool

  • +5

    the charger is reasonable. I use one currently

  • +1

    These work great for VR headset hand controllers, which also don't work well with 1.2V. Another use case is for AA clock batteries.

  • I got a bunch of another brand of these 1.5V lithium rechargeables for all my wireless mice and keyboards.

    I got the ones that don't need a recharger. They have a micro-USB socket on them and come with a cable that is USB-A at one end and 4 micro-USBs plugs on the other, so you can recharge them 4 at a time off any USB-A charger or socket.

    I was a bit disappointed when the most-used mouse stopped working suddenly after only a month, and the batteries in it needed recharging. Sure, they just needed recharging, they weren't dead, but I would have expected more capacity in these lithium rechargeables. So I swapped that pair with a pair in another mouse, and the replacements went for months before needing recharging, which is still rather less than single use batteries.

    So its great not to have to throw batteries away after a single use. Just recharge them. But they don't seem to have the capacity claimed. And they aren't suitable for high discharge uses.

    • +4

      I got the ones that don't need a recharger.

      Those have lower capacity than cells that do need an external charger as the socket takes up space that would otherwise fit a higher capacity cell internally.

      But they don't seem to have the capacity claimed.

      Looking at reviews that measure the capacity, this one does have the capacity claimed, taking into account buck converter efficiencies.

      However with very low-drain devices like your mouse, the cell's own self-discharge becomes the limiting factor. The buck circuit has to be active all the time so devices with soft power switches or deep sleep modes will work.

      And they aren't suitable for high discharge uses.

      Yup, they're probably best suited to low to medium drain devices.

      BTW if your device uses two AAs you could use a 14500 cell plus a dummy cell. That would eliminate any buck converters and you'll get the full benefit of lithium ion chemistry.

      • +1

        14500 lithiums are 3.6V though, that might too high above the 3.0 - 3.2V that those devices would be designed for.

        • +2

          LFP 14500 cells are 3.2V. I probably should have linked that in my previous comment!

          • @eug: That advert says 3.2V. But everywhere on the internet it says they are nominal 3.7V, and 4.2V when fully charged. If it wasn't for that I think a 14500 paired with a dummy cell might be a better choice in a lot of circumstances than a pair or 1.5V lithium rechargeable AAs.

            For anyone who is interested, there's the 10440 which is the same size as an AAA.

            • +1

              @GordonD: Different chemistries dude
              LiFePo4 are 3.2v nominal

            • +1

              @GordonD:

              That advert says 3.2V. But everywhere on the internet it says they are nominal 3.7V, and 4.2V when fully charged.

              3.7/4.2V is for regular Li-Ion cells. LFP cells are 3.2V based on their chemistry.

              You can see a discharge curve of another brand's LFP 14500 from this review.

              If someone is just measuring the open circuit voltage of a cell with just a multimeter it'll read about 3.7V, but once loaded it will drop to about 3.2V as you can see in the graph above. The same thing happens with fresh alkalines and primary lithium AAs which can read up to 1.8V in the case of the lithiums.

          • @eug: Hmm, that would give an equivalent of 1920 mWh though with a dummy cell, pretty low capacity. I would probably rewire the battery holder so that 2 cells are run in parallel instead.

            • @Sleepycat3: Yes but in OP's case it looks like it's the cell's self-discharge (from the buck converter) that's limiting usage time rather than cell capacity.

              Of course without knowing more details about the device (e.g. how long it runs on alkalines or NiMH), it'll be hard to give any definites.

    • I use AA NiMH with my mouse (Logitech Performance MX) and it is such a high drain device that I have to swap batteries every week. It's the nature of the mouse, as I also have a Logitech Triathlon Mouse M720 and that will last over a year on the same AA NiMH battery!

  • These are not that cheap, aren't they?

    • They are cheap for what they are. Many devices need 1.5V per cell and won't work with 1.2V. This is where these batteries come in.

    • For comparison I got 4 vapcell P1422A off AliExpress for $40
      They are only 3.4WH but have built in usbc charging

      • +1

        So those still costed more than this set of 4 with the charger and higher capacity.

  • Can these be used with a camera flash/Speedlite?
    I am using 2 Godox TT685II which each use 4x AA, and have been using eneloop pro recently.

    • +1

      The Godox TT685II is designed for NiMH batteries as it is a very high drain device. So you are essentially on the best batteries for it. The only way you can go better is if your Eneloop Pros are made not in Japan. You can still find the original Eneloop Pros made by Fujitsu's factory in Japan. Most recently, they are the ones sold by Ikea as the white 2450 mAh rechargeables.

      • Thanks, great idea.

  • Based on the reviews on the internet for this,seems like wishful thinking. Something as reliable as eneloop but with 1.5V ? Nope.

    Seems unreliable and expensive and doesnt do what it says on the tin.

  • -1

    Will the world ever change over to using Lithium batteries, or will they forever be stuck with 1.5V AA. Most devices need 3V anyway.

    EDIT: Never mind, li-on batteries are less safe anyway.

  • Worth looking at the VC4 if just after a charger for $24.70. It'll do many more battery sizes but no USB-C.

    https://www.amazon.com.au/XTAR-Universal-Battery-Rechargeabl…

    • Also worth checking out the XTaR BC4 charger if wanting a smaller USB-C charger for these batteries and NiMh (like Eneloops). Works as a powerbank and torch as well. Check out EBay or AliExpress for cheapest price. I quite like mine after getting these XTaR Li-ion batteries recently.
      Another existing UsB charger that I had already that works on 18650 and NiMh AA batteries was not compatible with these XTAR batteries though.

  • is this one better? seems more capacity and 8 battery for same price? EBL AA Batteries Precharged 2800mAh High Capacity Ni-MH AA Rechargeable Batteries Pack of 8 https://amzn.asia/d/0bdvXn3u

    • +1

      If your device runs fine with 1.2V cells, NiMH is fine. Some devices run better on 1.5V though, which these cells provide.

      A device that uses 4x AAs will get 6V from these cells but just 4.8V from NiMHs.

  • Any info on self discharge due to the step down converter running all the time? Eg how long they hold a charge on the shelf

  • Just need a decent charger for my eneloops?AA + AAA

    • +2

      LiitoKala Lii-500
      I'm using this one. Cheap and accurate. There are other models that support usb charging/built in power supplies..
      Supports both eneloops and lithium batteries (only the 3.7v nominal voltage - not the ones like in this listing)

  • +5

    I used an XTAR VX4 to measure the capacity of a XTAR AA 1.5V Li-ion 4150mWh / 2500mAh (button top) (dark blue) cell:

    Measurement CH1 CH2 CH3 CH4
    Start Voltage 1.510
    Finish Voltage 1.510
    Capacity (mAh) 2478
    Capacity (mWh) 3566

    The capacity measured was 3566mWh. This is close to 3750mWh (2500mAh*1.5V). See FAQ below for why this is so different from 4150mWh on the wrap.

    There is a 14430 3.6V Li-ion 1150mAh cell under the wrap with a circuit to step the voltage down to 1.5V. It will drop to 1.1V when the voltage gets low (3.15V).

    1.5V Li-ion chargers like the XTAR LC4 supply about 5V 0.4A to the cell, and then the charging circuit on the cell uses a TC-CC-CV charging method:

    TC stage: trickle charging. When the Li-ion battery voltage is lower than 3V, it starts to charge with a very small current to awake and protect the battery.

    CC stage: constant current charging. When the battery voltage rises above 3V, the charger enters into fast charging with 0.5C rate.

    CV stage: constant voltage charging. When the battery reaches 4.2V, the charger starts charging with decreasing current. When the current is lower than 0.01C, the charger automatically cut off charging.

    FAQ

    Here a frequently asked questions about the XTAR 1.5V Li-ion cell:
    https://www.xtar.cc/news/faqs-about-xtar-4150mwh-aa-li-ion-b…

    What is the internal structure of the 1.5V AA 4150mWh battery?

    The 1.5V AA 4150mWh rechargeable lithium battery utilizes a 3.6V 14430 battery core. It is internally integrated with an efficient charging and discharging management dedicated chip, using 1.5MHz synchronous rectification buck discharge. It has built-in protections for over-discharge, short-circuit, and over-temperature, and the indication of charging, full, and short circuit status. When the battery core voltage is approximately 3.15V, the battery output voltage automatically drops to 1.1V. The battery size is the same as 14500.

    What’s the difference between mWh vs mAh?

    Battery capacity (mAh) defines the amount of charge stored by the battery. It is the maximum power that the battery can be used, more useful for the battery runtime. Battery energy (mWh) is the value of mAh multiplied by voltage, which determines what kind of device the battery can drive. It is a dynamic concept. It is the actual power of the battery in a certain state. Just like a reservoir, its storage capacity remains constant, but its actual water volume is dynamic.

    A battery with a marked capacity of mAh can emit different amounts of electricity under different discharge currents. The higher the current, the less energy can be released. This is caused by polarization inside the battery. Therefore, when discussing the battery life, you should also consider the discharge rate performance.

    How to calculate the “4150mWh”?

    The XTAR 4150mWh AA lithium battery adopts a cell of 3.6V 14430 1150mAh. The rating capacity comes from the capacity of the internal battery cell, because the cell capacity is fixed. It is 1150mAh*3.6V=4140mWh. The mAh capacity is 2500mAh, and it comes from XTAR lab’s test under the condition of a standard discharging current of 0.5A.

    Convert the capacity mAh to mWh, it is 2500mAh x 1.5V=3750mWh, not the rated 4150mWh. What’s the reason:

    The formula of “Voltage x mAh capacity=mWh energy” only works on 3.6/3.7V lithium-ion batteries. For the rechargeable 1.5V lithium-ion battery, there is a conversion loss due to the built-in voltage regulator circuit, typically estimated to be around 8% to 10%. Therefore, the discharging energy of the XTAR 4150mWh AA lithium battery is around 4150mWh*90%=3735mWh. That means, the energy after fully charging is 4150mWh, but it would be less in discharging due to the conversion loss.

    I noticed that the transparent wrap around the blue branded wrap can be easily ripped off if you have kapton tape on it and rip the tape off along the edge of the wrap.

    There are some chargers with USB-C input that support 1.2V Ni-MH, 3.6V Li-ion, 1.5V Li-ion and 3.2V LiFePO4:
    - XTAR MX4 (review by SammysHP on BLF)
    - XTAR VX4 (review on BLF)

    • Interesting to see you got those results, similar to this. I didn't get more than around 3300mWh/2300mAh @ 500mA, pretty much the same as here though I notice we both used SkyRC MC3000.

      • I wish I had a SkyRC MC3000! I've been using a Raspberry Pi 4 and two Zoyi ZT-300AB digital multimeters (Bluetooth). I used parametrek's script to record the voltage and current (voltage across a shunt).

        I copied the style of graph that I saw HKJ create.

        EDIT: I should clarify my association with XTAR after praising the MC3000. I've received chargers and batteries in the past from XTAR to review.

  • Lots of discussion on the batteries but is this a good charger? The cord on my old has broken.

    • +1

      No. It's only for these Li-Ion batteries.

  • I can’t seem to verify if my ISDT C4 EVO will charge these cells. The manual states all sorts of different chemistries but the voltages seem incorrect. Can anyone confirm?

    • +1

      I don't think the ISDT C4 Evo supports 1.5V Li-ion cells.

      It seems to support Li-ion cells with a 3.6/3.7V nominal voltage (full at 4.20V).

      1.5V Li-ion need about 5V 0.4A. The charging algorithm used is a bit different.

      I've got an ISDT C4 Evo and last time I tried charging a 1.5V Li-ion it didn't detect the cell.

      LiMeta R4 Evo is by a sister company in Suzhou. It looks like a rebadged C4 Evo. There's also a Kyosho 72012.

      XTAR has a bunch of 1.5V Li-ion chargers: MX4, VX4 etc. Enova Gyrfalcon S8000 is another.

  • Is this a good AA charger I want to get 2 for charging multiple AA. Charge time is of no concern.

  • hey OZ Bargain-ers,

    Pls forgive me if my questions sounds dumb :)

    How are these ones compare to enloop or even Ikea ones? I do have quite a few of IKEA 900mAh AAA ones, they seem loosing power a while after charge.

    • +2

      A little bit of comparison to help you understand why these batteries might be appealing.

      There are lots of different battery chemistries used to store electricity. The type of chemistry defines how the battery will perform in different circumstances, and whether they can be recharged.

      Regular AA batteries generally use zinc-carbon or alkaline chemistry and have a nominal 1.5V output. This chemistry is very cheap to manufacture, but does not allow them to be recharged, so they need to be discarded and replaced. There's a significant waste of both money and materials associated with using these cells long-term, especially in situations where you need to change batteries regularly. However, their low cost and ubiquity make them the "standard" and most AA-powered electronics are designed around 1.5V because of this.

      Eneloop AAs are NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) chemistry cells, which are capable of recharging and sustaining relatively high discharge for quite a long time. This makes them popular in devices like camera flashes, portable speakers and RC cars. However, NiMH batteries have a nominal voltage of 1.2V rather than 1.5V - this is normally fine for general use, but certain devices (a few are listed in the comments above) use battery voltage to detect when batteries are nearly flat. So even a fully charged NiMH-based AA battery will often be detected as "low voltage" by some devices, and cause false warnings about batteries being nearly flat.
      (Note: IKEA Ladda batteries are virtually identical to Eneloop and may actually be sourced from the same factory)

      The batteries in this deal use lithium chemistry, with a tiny bit of clever electronics inside, to make nice clean 1.5V power source that mimics the behaviour of standard AA batteries. Lithium chemistry gives these batteries most of the upsides of NiMH, but without the disadvantages of having 1.2V output. However, they will require a special charger (included with this deal) and are a bit more expensive.

      More detailed information about different AA battery chemistries can be found in a nice clear format here if you want to dive a little deeper: https://lygte-info.dk/info/ComparisonOfAABatteryChemistry%20…

      • nice clean 1.5V power source.

        Good explanation. I totally agree with everything else but this statement.
        Batteries exhibit very smooth linear voltage characteristics (based on the load, state of charge) but since this very likely relies on non-linear voltage regulation to step down to 1.5v, you're very likely to see ripples. And since this is space optimize, there isn't a ton of room or budget to smooth it out too much.
        That being said this should be a really good alternative to most of the 1.2v intolerant devices.

        Ordered put in my annoying label maker that doesn't work properly with 1.2v batteries.

  • Expired
    $47.90 now

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