Non Homekit version for $43.99
Back on sale and a few cents cheaper than last time.
CamelCamelCamel.
You can change the operating time in the settings if that is happening under "opening time" (although default is 15 seconds which should be enough).
I had some false positives with the reed sensor but I simply added a neodymium magnet to it and it's has not failed since.
I have mine on 20 seconds, and that is 7 seconds more than it takes.
If you are getting time outs in closing check the sensor. I had a similar problem as there was a bit too much distance between them so it wouldn't always detect it was closed. Adding the magnet made it rock solid (it has been like that for 2 years now)!
Do you have a link to the neodymium magnets you bought? Was thinking of getting some from bunnings but they don't have strength ratings and don't want to buy them if they're rubbish
I would think an overly strong magnet will eventually ruin the reed sensor as the little bits of metal may get "stuck" closed.
I have bought a few packets of thin rectangular ones from Amazon. Heaps better than anything at Bunnings.
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B0CNLK3BYB/ref=ppx_yo_d… But shop around as those were back in January.
I used them on my west facing roller doors to fix insulation foil, so I can move it around and get the best insulation fit, and still have the roller door roll. It works very well.
The thing to watch with these little magnets as they are easy to break when you try to separate them.
Sorry, can't help as I bought the magnets a good 10 years ago from some random eBay seller!
Will these work on a Roller Door rather than a Panel lift door?
Yes, currently using one on a roller door, and another on an electric side gate
Looks Iike pins 15 and 16 should do the job
I don’t have this particular model
but judging by the circuit diag seems like connector 15(com) and 16(O/S/C) should be of your interest.
@marouthu: You'll need a power source. Find the power source for your garage opener and just install a splitter.
@donkeyhokey: I wanted to convert 12v to 5v by connecting to the gate itself…i just want to know which ports i can draw power from
@marouthu: This unit is not designed for outdoor use or not weather proof. Where are you planning to place this switch? You can install it inside the gate motor unit enclosure box if you find enough space but that is not recommended. There is no dedicated power output from the motor control unit board. You can try connector 1 and 3. Measure the voltage with a multimeter. Those two pins feeding power to the control board. This can cause voltage/current drop and render your gate controller board malfunction/break. So only do if you know what are you doing.
@gr8m8sam: Thanks for the input…
That's really helpful but what about 12 and 13 seems like 12v output
I bought step down 12v to 5v adaptor..
Thanks in advance
Meross website selling it for $51.99 with free shipping to melb.
My bad. I overlooked USD…
thanks OP. Aside from Meross, are there any other competitors that I should look into ? Or is Meross the go to brand for homekit devices.
Bought one ages ago. Couldn’t figure out how to get it to work on my ancient B&D roller model MPC3
Sad.
Before buying these, best thing to do is get a piece of wire and try to trigger the terminals yourself. All this device is doing is connecting 2 pins, so if you connect one side of the wire that would normally go to this controller, and then tap the other end against the other terminal the door should trigger open / closed.
Once you've confirmed you can do that, then wire one of these in.
https://www.aggdoors.com.au/product-support/manuals/garage-d…
Quick google seems to indicate you want to wire it in place of the wall control switch pictured in page 7. It says that it takes a harness, so that's annoying. But you should just be able to build one yourself or just jam something over the pins (breadboard jumper wires are good for this). Figuring out which pin is which though…
For what it's worth, if it's worse for wear these are piss easy to replace yourself. I have a homeentry one from bunnings thats 9 years old and still kicking. They still sell the same model, installed one on my other garage door a year or so ago.
Thanks for your reply!
You seem to know stuff so here’s a link to some photos - when you have a sec if you take a look and let me know your thoughts that’d be great 👍🏼
One of the best gadgets I bought. Work flawless with homekit.
Same here. One of the best purchases I’ve ever made. love going out and not needing to worry about keys. Unfortunately it’s not 100% reliable, so a spare key needed just in case…but very handy!!
My Marantec Comfort 270 motor was installed without the terminal block ( https://www.northshorecommercialdoor.com/marantec-114590-ter… ), hence I cannot get this to work, anyone know where I can obtain a replacement terminbal block from? Could only find this store in the US which doesn't ship overseas..
Not sure is something like this from Jaycar will fit.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/3-pole-pc-mount-pluggable-terminal…
by the same token - just because there’s some risk doesn’t automatically mean you shouldn’t, either.
Have to weigh up pros and cons and decide if it’s for you.
yeah, fair enough comment.
Do you use internet banking in your phone or computer? Why open yourself to that risk go into a branch
It's not the same thing. Banks have 2-factor auth protection. Does the garage door opener ask you to authenticate twice before opening your door? I can assure you that the garage door company is not as cyber-secure as a bank.
My perspective, as someone who works in IT…
You're right these platforms aren't as secure as a bank by any means. But you need to consider how someone is going to maliciously use this against you?
You'd need to be directly targeted by someone you're known to, who then tries to gain access to these accounts, and then access to your property. They're not just going to "hack" your account magically unless your password is your dogs name or birthday and you don't have 2fa.
I've got entrance and garage doors online and I have no concerns security wise. Realistically, if you want to get into my house you've got the roof, you could probably pry open a window quietly enough, or 2 glass panes on either side of my front door could be smashed.
You'd have to be pretty high value and a decent target for someone to actively try to get into your house via your smart locks / door openers.
@knk: Has Apple actually had a hack? The iCloud stuff over a decade ago was a combination of social engineering, weak passwords and two factor not being set up rather than compromised servers. I can’t remember another instance.
@akerr: Exactly,it's always social engineering or something stupid on the end users end.
I'd have to be real damn important / wealthy / who knows for someone to target my smartlife account or homeassistant instance in order to….idk mess with or rob me.
In reality no one cares about little ole me / anyone posting in this thread chances are lol.
Realistically, if you want to get into my house you've got the roof, you could probably pry open a window quietly enough, or 2 glass panes on either side of my front door could be smashed.
Thanks for the tip
@bghunter: No worries, for what it's worth half the time we forget to lock the sliding door a lot of the time. You should be able to jump over the gate easily enough just jump on top of the trailer's cage and come on in.
I'll have the beers waiting.
Anz doesn’t have two factor to login only to make large transfers, under $1000. No different than getting in the garage door and taking gear not locked away vs getting into a much harder safe.
If someone wants to get in your home any window will get them in with zero effort vs hacking a garage door.
@WhiteEvo6: I required an SMS to send $750 yesterday. I mean yeah SMS is shit but it's "technically" 2FA.
I think what you've described is only a thing if the payment details have been previously saved if I'm not mistaken.
While not the same thing… it does advise it's been opened/closed.
Is the risk from being "online" actually greater than the risk of opening a garage door using a code scanner (if you are using a remote) or just by plain physical force?
In addition, do you think the majority of break ins are not opportunistic but are targetted by thieves with engineering degrees carrying a laptop?
Better yet, have you considered that this can increase your security by alerting you where ever you are in the world if the door is unexpectedly opened?
You need to use a bit more critical thinking here.
The answer to your question is yes, the risk is greater. Most modern garage door openers have a rolling code, so a code scanner is useless because the code is always changing. Code scanners only work for the old school garage door openers from 20+ years ago that had a static code.
And your comment about plain physical force, well that's just silly because physical force can work regardless of if the garage is smart or not. So it's a mute point to raise.
It seems you are the one who needs to apply more critical thinking here, not me. But hey, if you're comfortable about your garage being less secure, then go right ahead and purchase this. But don't be so naive as to think that having this installed does not increase your risk. It definitely does, it's just that most people are comfortable with the increased risk. Which is fine, I'm just not comfortable with the increased risk.
Read into RollJam… Or buy this!
https://www.wired.com/2015/08/hackers-tiny-device-unlocks-ca…
The point is it doesn't increase risk to your security in any material way.
The reason the point is moot is because any mug who is breaking into houses these days isn't going to be sophisticated enough to hack your garage. They will just throw a brick through a window or take a roof tile off like any other regular thief.
It's more of and issue if it doesn't work properly and you come home and find your garage already open, but these seem more reliable
Scanners are useless these days as they use rolling codes if I'm not mistaken aren't they?
But perhaps that technology is also kinda broken, can't imagine it's overly secure.
The old simple scanners are mostly useless and have been for a long time, but replay attacks on rolling codes are still possible on most systems with a bit more complicated man in the middle approaches.
@dvsbastard: That'd be a hell of a sales pitch though. Go around selling secure replacements to install, clone a garage door remote to show them how insecure it is. Easy sale lol.
Higher chance of someone kicking in the front door or smashing the lounge room window.
How many crooks are actually out there hacking smart devices to get into houses?
Terrible logic. A swift kick to your front door would be much easier than hacking your iCloud account.
Really easy to use with the Steelline series garage openers. Integration of the app with google home is limited though so may not be the best for home automation.
I have the steeline sd-800, never could get it to work with mine so i returned it
bad time to be seeing your comment after I just purchased it. Hopefully I can get it to work with my steel line!
I’ll gamble it too
@MrOzbargain: Let us know how you go. I suspect there is an issue with my garage opener, where you connect the wires at the top. Hopefully yours isn’t the same
Thats what i have… the SD800. Maybe a faulty unit?
Works with my rd-800. Hardest part was finding a spot on the roller door to mount the sensor.
Similarly I found integration of the smartlife ones into Alexa to be pretty shit house.
If it's an option, I've created scenes in smartlife that get shared to alexa. Anything comparable on the meross?
Good price, annoyed as I just purchased it last night for $65. Amazon doesn't provide price matches in these situations and charges you $7 to return it. Just going to cop the loss.
Or you can buy another one at this price and return the original one. I've done this before with some purchases.
That was what I was going to do. But shipping cost to return is $7, which pretty much negates most of the price difference.
you're choosing the wrong option, try around with different return options where its not change of mind or your fault e.g. its defective etc. They'll give you free shipping then
@catchtheaman: Do they ever verify wtv reason provided? Eg returning due to defective product but product turns out to work fine.
@thelifevultures: nope, they're not going to do anything about it. To be honest they'll probably just put the unit in the bin, who knows, it's cheaper than restocking and selling
@catchtheaman: They have been dropping these off at Vinnies, I bought 2 for 15 bucks each a while back, one the wiring Loom was untied the other was brand new.
Last time I had to return something to Bezos the rep actually told me to send it back as a return and buy a new one, price had come down 30 bucks so was worth the time. The return was free as it just went back in the original packaging
If you use the chat function, sometimes they will give you credit for the difference.
Really good product!
Found this on ozbargain radnomly once and now I use it multiple times a day, really good no need to carry keys around. However, one time the wifi cut out and I couldn't open the garage for obvious reasons as its controlled via home network
Fyi, Sold by shuzu-au not meross-direct or amazon
Why does everyone seem to love these meross ones over others?
I've got some $20 tuya ones including the reed switch and they've been flawless.
I'm just as confused as you are. There are alternative brands that are really cheap and good but this brand always gets high votes and attention.
I use them as these work with HomeKit, if alternate ones work with HomeKit too (without setting up a separate homebridge with a raspberry Pi) then it makes sense to go for the cheaper ones. @DONMAI @knk
ah so its homekit that you guys are after, that does make more sense.
I use homeassistant and the tuya stuff works well enough with it, need to try out local tuya still though.
I have got 2 of those(shed and garage roller doors), both are working great, using the IOS widget function of the app. Also, I have set the garage one on a 5min auto-close timer so that I don’t forget my garage open overnight(happened a few times in the past). I would give them a 10/10 if all the notifications were delivered instantly.
Once or twice a month I get the odd “garage door closed” message when the door in not used, but most of the time it’s a delayed notification for an action that happened hours before.
I didn’t want this to be cloud accessible, so I bought a Shelly relay instead and hooked it up to HomeKit which is only accessible through my home VPN.
More fiddling around, but far more secure.
Any good for home assistant integration?
Yep. I use mine exclusively through HA. Works great. I think you can cut it from cloud completely too if that’s your preference
What's the best way to cut it from cloud? Just block outbound traffic?
I have a ATA GDO 2v6 garage door opener, does anyone know if this is compatible? I can't find it on the list. This is the manual: https://media.umbraco.io/ata-automation/4zjpfdbf/gdo2v6-manu…
Using this several weeks now with HomeKit.
Such a breeze opening and closing using Siri.
However, does drop out occasionally maybe because the gate is quite far outside and my wifi modem is inside.. heard there was an update recently and was a little better but still good!
If you are on the fence, get one!
I bought it but didn't work on my steel-line garage door. Contacted support and they said that it will work and mailed me connection diagram but didn't succeed.
Does the regular door remote still work when this is installed?
yeah, these wire up same as a push button switch does. Just 2 wires joined together briefly to tell it to open / close (like pushing a button).
Goes into a separate input on the motor. Remotes will still work.
Anyone using this on a BnD Power Drive?
I have the B&D Power Drive RDO-1V4 PD and it works perfectly. I contacted Meross since it wasn’t listed on the compatibility page and they were very helpful. Connect the wires to OV and OSC.
Any chance these work with merlin
Confirm works with Merlin Prolift 230t, installed it few weeks ago and works flawlessly.
working with the MR655MYQ
Bought these a year ago and still doing well. Handy when I forget to close the garage. I just tell siri to "close the garage" and Homekit does the rest.
It Integrates well and I picked it up last time. I use it with my B&D panel lift.
Just be aware that users (including me) have noted issues with Unify Ubiquiti WiFi.
It occasionally loses the plot, even though it appears connected. Yes, it's locked to 2.4Ghz
I've suspected it is related to the Unify channel optimisation, but could be wrong.
My work around is to have the unit on a smart plug with automated restarts and seems to have fixed it more me.
Certainly handy to be able to access from Siri, Alexa etc.
As also noted, you can tune the closing times to avoid the warnings etc., about not being closed.
Yes, this is a known problem.
The better workaround is to lock the Unifi AP to use Channel 2 on the 2.4Ghz network.
My unit has been rock-solid for over a year now.
Have one installed and it is great. My only continuing annoyance is with the app. If i use it to open the rollerdoor and back out of the app snd then use google voice command to close it,next time i open the app it hasnt refreshed ro show its current closed state.
I have to refresh the screen a few times before it shows the correct status and i can open the door again.
guys, a small tip with the application. it can be integrated Samsung smart things that can be accessed in Android auto. a lot better to open and close with touch of a button in car while driving.Hope it helps
Looks like it is back in stock. Still showing same price.
and 1¢ less!
Non Homekit version - is it combatible with android auto?
Great kit. It does occasionally time out on closing time though, which makes it think the garage is still open.