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Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM Chromax.black.swap (120mm) $57.08 + Delivery ($0 with Prime /$59 Spend) @ Amazon Germany via AU

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nice deal with 10% coupon, if you wana to make silence PC

Note: Sold out on 12 May. Available for purchase again with 1-2 months lead time on 13 May.

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.

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closed Comments

  • +23

    Good deal, however what Noctua charges these days is ridiculous. You don't need to spend this much for a quality case fan

    https://www.pccasegear.com/category/9_2152/fans-accessories/…

    (Not an endorsement of pccasegear)

    • Recommend arctic fans?

      • +5

        My pick would be P12 or P14 PWM PST CO.

        Something like this https://www.amazon.com.au/ARCTIC-P12-Value-Pack-Pressure-opt…

        • +5

          My cheap go-to fan is the Artic P12 PWM (PST OR regular) 5-pack

          If you want a single fan then the P12 is the go or if you want to get a little more specific I would use P12s on Radiators or anywhere there's an obstruction such as moving air over the HDD bay and F12s as straight intakes and outtakes where there is not a lot of obstruction. They move a similar amount of air at a lower static pressure and RPM which is therefore quieter but if I only had to pick one it's the p12's

        • +2

          Without knowing the application recommending is pointless. Those Artic fans are junk for radiators, but fine for bottom front intake, if you don't mind a hum at certain RPM.

          If you have a radiator and need to cool a 14900k, I would 100% not recommend any Arctic, I would and did go with end game fans, the T-30's.

          And I've done a crap load of fan + ducts + smoke machine experiments https://i.ibb.co/GdNbyjb/Capture.jpg

          • +1

            @raybies: you might be forgetting that the p12 max exists, which are excellent for radiators

          • @raybies: What's the ideal setup you would recommend?

            • +1

              @greatlamp: TL;DR ensure more CFM is coming from the front and bottom of the case and exhausting top and back with high static pressure.

              I could literally write a book on the "ideal setup", as one would expect after 30yrs building PCs.

              I was a slightly positive pressure type builder and I relied on natural convection forces, i.e., hot air rises. Now, I am a measure, visualize and duct builder, because air doesn't always flow as expected. My side exhausts were ineffective when visualized with smoke and high speed camera. Eventually, I added T30's for side exhaust which improved CPU temperatures by -5°C (85c), but GPU +10°C (55-65c) all @ 100% load.

              There are numerous variables to consider, with GPU and CPU being the primary thermal concerns. Adding intake ducts directed at RAM resulted in more stable DDR5 OC performance.

              I find using a smoke machine ($80) to observe airflow patterns under different loads to be highly beneficial. I think easiest way to improve thermals is to use a smoke machine and strive to get the smoke out of the case as quickly as possible is the "ideal setup".

              Radiators on intake are efficient for the components within the loop but can negatively impact other components, so I avoid this.

              Using ducts to enure no recirculation is crucial. Example: https://i.ibb.co/R2yZDZ6/Capture.jpg before adding these ducts that have 0 gap with the side panel, ~ 20% of the air (smoke) was going back in to the case and also reduced the efficiency of the fans through turbulence.

              We haven't even covered environment, push/pull, etc. Like a south facing concrete wall has a huge thermal mass you can take advantage of…

      • +2

        Obligatory comment forewarning humm noise at certain RPM on Arctics.

      • Nah, not the same class as the Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM. Instead, you should try the Thermalright Toughfan 12, which matches its performance and is cheaper.

    • one day someone on this island will finally stock p14 slim fans but that day is not today :(

    • Love the arctic fans, running 20 in my system and pst made wiring them up so easy. They're low power draw so you can have 5 fans running off 1 PWM header. I still think noctua is the best but hard to look past the cheaper options nowadays.

      • +1

        20

        ???

        • I have 22 fans in my system currently fully loaded it goes up to about 34 :) I used to run Noctua NF-F12's back in the day but the prices have just got so ridiculous, especially with RGB, the Artic P12's really saved the day.

          My typical setup when water cooling running two 480 mm long and 80mm thick radiators is about:

          3 intakes on the front left and 4 on the front right

          4 intakes bottom left and 4 bottom right

          4 top left (pull) and 8 top right (push-pull)

          1 back left back intake

          Note: Just purchased an SMA-10 Caselabs case off the forums so excited to finally move to a 560 MM radiator instead (that's been sitting in storage) 4x140's I have some older NF-A14 fans but I might upgrade them to Artic P-14's

          • @TheFyrd: How many watts are you dissipating?
            I have 12 case/radiator fans + 8 cabinet fans (4 x 120mm, 2 x 200, 2 x 140).

            • @raybies: Honestly not that much.

              It's always been an overkill setup for my needs. I just like how they look and of course how quiet you can get the fans.

              It was always like a 480MM & 420 or 2 480MM radiators. When I moved across to the double wide I switched to two 480mm 80mm thick radiators but I never went above 1000W

              Like I think at its peak I was running 2 980ti classifieds overclocked within an inch of their life and a standard Intel i7 that was available at the time. Pretty much I've been air-cooling at least for the last 3-4 years.

              Currently have a 7900XTX and a R7-5800X, my GPU wasn't a good overclocker not sure if they've opened up bios changes but was just voltage locked. Bit of a lemon tbh.

              Just plenty of fans and a Noctua NH-D15 whisper quiet, I'm not even using nice fans, just some cheap RGB Chinese ones.

              I think I have a 1300W PTitanium PSU in there currently, don't think I'll ever draw enough power to stress it.

              The thing I love about water-cooling components is just how long they last. Drain them, give them a good clean and they're fine for years to come. Also you can just replace the individual component when it reaches EOL rather then the entire AIO or whatever. Of course they cost an arm and a leg but they do look nicer and perform better.

          • @TheFyrd: SMA-10 what a flex. Jealous.

            • @rainbowunicorn: ;) <3

              Haha thank you. I currently have a TH10A that I bought from Scorptec back in the day but I thought it was the same size as W10 when I bought so my 560 radiator didn't fit all because I didn't want to wait 1 month for a SMA8 to be ordered from the US. In the end I always regretted it despite the TH10A serving me very well. Recently found a bargain $550 delivered off of OCAU.

          • @TheFyrd: What are you cooling? The sun?

            • @DeToxin: Currently air cooling lmao but mate when you have the pump running on low and all the fans spinning on ultra-low RPMs, it's whisper quiet usually the loudest component is your pump at that point which is the best thing about the D5 even on low RPMs it still moves a decent amount of water.

        • +1

          2 x 480mm rads and 240mm rad.
          Link to build if you wanna check it out.
          https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/16tclzm/corsa…

          • +1

            @rainbowunicorn: Ooooo 900D so classy, love it. It was my first halo case!

            Hate the thick bezels though! Was sooo hard to install wide air-cooled GPUs in. I honestly question whether or not George (the designer) ever used anything but stock GPUs. I even bought my first dremel to cut a little window at the back just to the right of the thumbscrew panel. What a missed opportunity by them! They could have had a small removable mesh that allowed you easy access to the GPU thumbscrews.

            Installing a current-generation card would be so hard. Also a 560 totally would fit in the bottom if they added more mounting holes.

    • +3

      No, you don't need to spend this much.

      But Noctua is a company that really backs their products, and their customer support is excellent.

      I genuinely feel like the premium is worth it for Noctua products, however I totally understand going for a cheaper option.

      • +4

        100%

        They sent me a AM4 mounting plate for free with international shipping, so I could use the D14 cooler I purchased in 2010 on my 3900x.

        However the D14 cost $75 in 2010, the D15 update is pushing $200

        • +1

          I feel much better giving my money to a company that operates like this.

          Especially in 2024, when so many companies (even big, well known ones) basically say 'fk you' to their customers with valid warranty claims.

        • Similar story, bought a nh-c14 second hand, it was missing the wire clips for the inner 90mm fan. Sent them an enquiry via email, all they asked for was a photo of the cooler and they sent me the clips.
          Definitely can't fault their customer service

      • +1

        I got a 200mm fan and it literally just fell over from sitting on it's side and a blade broke, so they sent me a new fan. I even ended just CA'ing the broken one and it's held up.

    • Agreed, other fan companies have caught up, no chance I'd be spending over $50 for a case fan.

      You can get a CPU air cooler such as a Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE for this sort of money.

      • Oh I thought this was 12 fans when I rated it up.

  • This or the T30 for $45 @ PCCG?

    • T30 probably

    • T30 if you have the room.

    • Arctic P12 Max for $15

    • Depends on the application. Read ^^^

    • I would recommend T30 if you only need it to run under 1300 RPM. Otherwise Noctua still better.

    • personally i went with t30's but honestly you couldn't go wrong with either. the t30's are really well built and they performed considerably better than my old noctua NF-F12 while cutting down on noise.

  • i wana to make silence PC

    • +10

      Turn it off 🙂

  • +12

    Good time to remind people Noctua's official store on Newegg has cheap shipping for Australia again.

    https://www.newegg.com/global/au-en/Seller-Store/Noctua-Cool…

  • ++ For Chromax Black as a Noctua Enjoyer

  • I find the Thermaltake Toughfans are pretty good value.

  • I picked these up which are excellent.

    be quiet! - BL107
    be quiet! Pure Wings 3 Fan, Black, 140mm, 1200rpm, 3 Pin Connector, Rifle Bearing

    https://www.scorptec.com.au/product/cooling/fans/107751-bl10…

    Excellent fans $13

  • +1

    I buy these.
    https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005005756698650.html
    $10 delivered and have been perfect for years.

    • +1

      Cursed vi link! D:

    • fan reminds me of hello kitty

      same link without vi

      year ago every time i click VI link always struggle to get it back in english no matter what i do, eventually fixes itself after weeks

  • At 42 dBA which is the scenario where the PC is under stress and the noise is still not crazy, A12x25 is still very good (slightly lower than the classic Gentle Typhoon). For Noctua these days the two products I only recommend are A12x25 and A12x15. There might be premium but u know what you are getting from it.

  • -1

    Woah, $60 for a case fan. It's not just an Oz ripoff thing either- they're expensive in the US. I guess this is what happens if you need to go RGB.

    I've got a stash of new (non-RGB) Noctua fans in my storage somewhere, I should dig the damn things out and sell them. I always just ended up using a jumbo box of Coolermasters instead- they're perfectly fine.

  • +2

    They are really quiet but very expensive, I bought all mine on facebook marketplace lol

    • seconded, used market is so good for many things.. got a 3060 Ti for $350

  • -1

    Panaflo or die

  • Noctua fans real win is their noise profile at different RPM ranges. No other brand manages it well in my experience. Whilst Artic is a popular cheap alternative, at certain RPM ranges it produces a whine. Other brands clicking clicking. It's really annoying in a quiet environment, especially when fans are going up and down in response to temp changes.

    If you run your fans max at all times, then Artic is fine.

  • TBH I've tried alot of fans and the noctua are arguably nearly worth the money. Just their quietness ,build quality and responsiveness

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