• expired

INIU ‎BI-B62 Power Bank, 65W 20000mAh Fast Charging Laptop Portable Charger, USB C $29.99 Delivered @ INIU via Amazon AU

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Tick the 50% off coupon to get the discounted price

Even better than last deal for $33.99

Good price for a 65W 20000mAh powerbank

=====
Updated as at 18/4 4:36pm: 50% off coupon is back again

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.

Related Stores

Amazon AU
Amazon AU
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INIU Official Store
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closed Comments

  • +3

    Time to cancel the other purchase then, thanks OP!

    • The other one was 100w power delivery though?

  • +3

    Buy buy buy!

    Don't think!

    • +2

      Think DASHCAMNOWDUDE, think!

  • Start the timer

  • +2

    Finally managed to snag one, perhaps just to keep my OzB credentials alive.

  • +2

    Dead already😲

  • -1

    Is it good for other phones and laptops other than the Apple products ???

    • +13

      Less talk. More buy.

      • -1

        I really don't know that's why I asked as the description mentioned only iphone 15

        • +3

          It's a powerbank, so yes, it's fine for anything you want to charge (and charge fast) over usb c. Charge your Dell laptop, Android phone, whatever.

          • -1

            @DirtyBoots: Thanks ! Have it sitting in the cart and manged to snag one.

          • +1

            @DirtyBoots: But no Huawei.. those damn ccp are going to steal your charging habit. 🙄😏

      • I know this deal will go so quickly. don't even bother to click on Shopback.

  • +2

    By the time I got to the checkout it was dead

    • +1

      Same, then I pressed back and it was there. Got lucky I guess

  • +6

    This is so stupid lol less than 10 mins deal

    • How to automate such purchases?

  • Damm missed this one

  • Expired

  • Finally got a quick deal! I almost always miss these.

    Though my card attached to Amazon was an old one I recently lost, so it's invalid…. I quickly, after ordering, changed payment method to my new card, so hopefully it still goes through fine…

  • argh been waiting a while for it too

  • +4

    would love to get a repeat of the 100w for $38.24 deal

    • thats the one I am after as well, but can't resist $30 for 65W so purchase one and post this deal LOL

  • +1

    I keep missing these deals lol

  • +1

    Be careful with this device, it cooked a DAC rechargeable battery worth 110$

    • +3

      Where are you folks from, who put the currency symbol after the number?

      • +1

        i'd do the same. lazy to backspace

        • .sdrawrof epyt ot yzal oot m'I

    • Ahhh that is interesting - what happened?

      • I put DAC on charging and a few minutes later felt electronics burning in the room :s

        Chord told me 110 plus shipping cost to UK for replacement

        • Mojo? They were unfortunately known for dying / power / battery issues.

          But should be pretty easy to show if the power bank did it. And then interesting how INIU support would respond.

          A device like the below will log voltage and current, so will show if the power bank is outputting higher voltage than it should be. Of course you need a device you are willing to plug in to charge…

          https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006548239520.html

          • @Prong: Yes, I have been using it for years. Like 2017. Never ever had any issues.

            The device sounds like a nice toy lol

            I will never use a portable psu to charge a DAC. It's crazy stupid.

            • @sqheaven: Interestingly a power bank has fewer failure modes than most alternatives. EG, a 240V powered USB charger can fail and output high voltage AC into the USB cable.

              It's possible a DC voltage regulation or negotiation failure could cause a power bank to output too high a voltage. If you could show that is what happened then I suspect INIU may cover the cost of a new Mojo.

              But in this case I suspect the Mojo itself is the most likely cause, as they have known charging, battery and other quality control issues.

              • @Prong: I did not expect much from them, they asked me to send photos of the internals of DAC. In the end they just refunded me when I insisted on returning it. I ordered it from their website and it came from Amazon. Did not make sense to me.

                I always charged Mojo with wall charge in 7 years of use. Never had any issue.

                I now have Anker 737 and Xiaomi ZMI something something, very powerful chargers, show you what's going on on the LED

  • Don't these capacities lie?

    • +5

      A real device test from youtube shows it has 12.9583 Ah / 65.2651Wh @ 5v

      Given the capacity at 3.7V is 20,000 mAh.

      Convert this capacity to amp-hours:
      Capacity at 3.7V=20,000 mAh = 20 Ah

      Then, calculate the energy capacity at 3.7V:
      Energy capacity at 3.7V= 20 Ah×3.7 V =74 Wh

      Calculate the efficiency rate:
      Given the energy capacity at 5V is 65.2651 Wh
      The efficiency rate of the power bank when charging at 5V is approximately 88.2%. ​​

      This is consider to be a very good efficiency rate in powerbank…

      • my eyes are spinning, i will trust that this device up for job. btw i want it for Rog Ally should be ok right? or 100w one in other deal is better?

    • +1

      Many brands do. INIU seem pretty good. I have a few (including the 25,000mAh, 65W version), and they all give the proper capacity (after efficiency losses).

      Sometimes when people say they don't get the real capacity, it's because they don't account for efficiency losses. With a good power bank, you should get 85% or more of the rated capacity (so 15% or lower efficiency losses).

      But whatever device you are charging also has efficiency losses. (EG, when charging, your phone gets warm - this is energy lost to heat).

      So generally, only about 70% of the capacity from the power bank will make it across into a device being charged. The rest is turned to heat.

      These numbers also vary depending on charge rate and device. Some are much better, some are worse.

    • Yes*. If you use littlesoldier's figures, 88.2% means 17600 mAh. Pretty much none of them overprovisioned to compensate for the loss.

      Also, you don't get 100% efficiency charging these powerbanks. When I tested one of mine (not this one though), the efficiency was about 85%. Since you need to charge it before you can use it, you essentially need to multiply both efficiency together. So, the real turnaround efficiency is about 75% [you need to use 23529 mA to charge it, but you get roughly 17600 mAh out of it (when it is brand new)]. Both efficiency figures drop as the batteries inside get older.

      Another thing is most, if not all of these, lacks adaptive fast charging. It will charge all the way to 100% (it won't do charge to 80% and then to 100% just before you wake up) so the battery health can degrade faster.

      These things are for convenience when you are on the go. I guess if you have solar panels at home, then efficiency isn't a big deal.

  • I ordered yesterdays deal for a couple of dollars more, it arrived this morning. I missed out on this one, I would have purchased a second one.

  • Darn, that's a good deal, missed out. T_T

    • It's back. For now. :)

  • This is 100% the new Eneloops

  • +3

    Back again 50% coupon

    • won't be for too long

  • Finally got one! Deal only seems to last an hour each day so get on it asap 🥦

  • Did I miss it again? For the 100th time?

    • We missed it. It's dead now.

    • yes fkkn missed again

  • +4

    Deal is back up, managed to get it this time

    • Yes! i just happened to re-look at that item in Amazon to see if this occurred.

  • +2

    I got mine today and will capacity test it tonight. It happily outputs 65W though.

    Interestingly, while the second USB-C port is rated for 36W (12V, 3A), it supports PPS 3.3V - 11V at a mighty 4.5A. (So up to 49.5W)

    This should allow Samsung 45W super fast charging. And give max charge rate to just about any phone that supports PPS.

    I don't have a Samsung phone to test it with, but I pulled 4.5A from the power bank across the whole 3.3V - 11V range with no issue.

    In contrast, the first USB-C port does not appear to have PPS support. So a phone that supports PPS will charge faster, cooler, and more efficiently on C2, rather than C1.

    • If im looking to use this powerbank for a low power draw device (pet water fountain), is there a preferred port to use to maximise the run time?

      I have a 10000 mah and a 20000 mah of two different brands and both last 5 days….even though one is supposed to have twice the capacity of the other.

      your expertise is appreciated.

      • Interesting question! All the ports should be very similar, but there will be minor small differences in the voltage conversion circuitry. I am curious, so will run some comparison tests and see if the difference is large enough to make a measurable difference.

        It's hard to know why you are getting similar run time from the two different power banks.

        What is the model of water fountain? And also the two power banks?

        That might give enough info to narrow it down.

        • All good…dont want to give you extra work!

          The 10,000 is an Iniu at 22.5w..while the 20,000 was a Veektomx at 65w..

          Im thinking perhaps the Veektomx may just a bad battery?

          The water fountain is just one off aliexpress..

          https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005584898290.html

          im thinking of getting a 30000 powerbank..but dont know if it is going to give me extra run time based on my 10000 and 20000 outcomes.

          • +1

            @Agent Q: Yeah I would suspect the Veektomx is not giving the rated capacity. I have not tested that model, but Charmast sells an identical one, so from the same manufacturer, just with their logo on it.

            The Charmast one was massively under capacity. It has about 55% of the rated capacity, so if the Veektomx one is the same (and I suspect it is) then it would only last a similar time to the INIU 10,000 mAh power bank.

            All the INIU power banks I have tested have been great.

            With the water fountain, it just runs slowly all the time correct? If so, then lasting 5 days from a 10,000 mAh power bank means the fountain only uses a very small amount of power. So you don't actually need anything that has a high output wattage (like 65W) as the fountain needs under 1W!

            Your best bet is probably a 30,000 mAh power bank, which should last about 2 weeks.

            Your issue with power banks might be that some turn themselves off if the device connected is using a very small amount of power. To avoid this, some power banks have a "low current mode" which keeps them turned on no matter what. Others just stay on even with a specific low current mode.

            I am not sure what INIU model you have, but I have the INIU B6, and testing just now it stays on at 0.2W if I am plugged into the USB-C port, but not the USB-A port.

            One 30,000 mAh power bank I know is good is the Romoss PHP30 Pro for $40 on Amazon
            https://www.amazon.com.au/ROMOSS-30000mAh-Portable-Charging-…

            This has a low current mode (push the power button twice) and so definitely won't turn off.

            Another 30,000 mAh power bank I know is good is the Baseus 30K 65W model. Currently $62 on eBay with code CBT24APR.
            https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/313648965957?var=612448990737

            The 65W Baseus is overkill for the fountain, but might be worth the extra if you also want to use it occasionally for other stuff like charging a laptop.

            • @Prong: Thanks Prong. You are an asset to Ozbargain!

              I have come across the issue with the powerbank turning off, but have managed to ovrrcome this by using a usb to usb c adaptor. When using the usb c adaptor, the powerbank seems to be fine with the low draw devices.

      • +1

        Using mAh as a sole measure of capacity is pretty useless unless you know the nominal voltage of the power supply which will differ between battery chemistry and if there are multiple cells, how those cells are wired together (series and/or parallel). I don't know why powerbank manufacturers continue to use mAh - probably as a means to trick people.

        Wh is a much more useful figure.

  • Saw it around 7:15, went to buy 7:20 gone

  • -3

    Finally managed to get it this time around at $29.99 (will return old ones that I got for $33.99

    • -1

      Did the same lol. Just waiting for them to make the double dip on the 140w model.

    • Will you pay for return shipping though? 😜

    • To save $4 you're going to return ones which work perfectly fine? It's behaviour like this which will ruin Amazon's generous returns policy for the rest of us.

  • It's back

  • Is there a way to setup price alert including coupons?

    • if u find out, let me know

  • Thanks OP, picked one up! Is there any way to purchase more than 1 with this deal? I bought one but the 50% coupon isn't showing up for another one I'd like to buy.

    • Each time when the 50% reappear you can buy again

      • Do you mean each time the deal is reoffered I can buy another one or are you saying that the 50% deal randomly refreshes after a certain period of time?

  • Just bought at $29.99

    Randomly checked and had a $59.99 price with a 50% tick the box code

    • +1

      Aha, same! Thanks

  • Appears to have expired now.

    • Yep, just before I was about to checkout ☹

  • Mine arrived this week and I put it on my capacity tester and the results are somewhat disappointing. Photo of results here: https://imgur.com/a/xWKcOxc

    Tested at 2A/5V via the USB-A port or ~10W draw or 0.1C which is a very low power test. A test at closer to1C or 65W (maximum power draw of this power bank) should be a more interesting test.

    Tested at 56.9Wh.

    The power bank is advertised as 74Wh meaning that the test I ran is 77% of the claimed capacity.

    Ignore mAh results. mAh is an absolutely useless metric since it is calculated using the nominal cell voltage which changes across battery banks depending on the battery chemistry. Wh should always be used as a comparison/metric.

    • Interesting result!

      I got sidetracked from posting my results. And I have only tested on USB-C 1, and not USB-A or USB-C 2.

      At 65W (20V, 3.25A) I get 64.6Wh, which is 87.3% of the rated capacity (a good result).
      At 30W (20V, 1.5A) I get 65.5Wh (88.5%)

      At 20W (9V, 2.22A) I get 65Wh exactly (87.8%).

      Charging the power bank, I get about 81.1Wh. Which is about 10% over the rated capacity, which is bang on expected.

      I was measuring capacity with a ChargerLab KM003C (which I was using to trigger the higher voltages) but I also have that exact same Atorch load tester. So I will run an identical 2A 5V test, using a USB-A to C cable into the load tester.

      As an aside, when I measure capacity using the KM003C, I also measure with the load tester. And it's accuracy is always great.

      One thought is that the B62 is not as efficient at voltage conversions on the USB-A port. Based on the voltage splits it can do, it uses one voltage conversion module for USB-C 1, and then a separate one for USB-C 2 and USB-A. Only the USB-C 1 port can do 20V, 65W, and it might be a more efficient module.

      The B62 doesn't give the internal voltage, but based on the voltages and test result, I would suspect it runs 4x 5,000mAh cells in series, for a nominal voltage around 14.8V. So the USB-C 1 port voltage conversion would be a more advanced step up or down module. Whereas the USB-C 2 and USB-A module will be step down only.

      Voltage conversion modules tend to give best efficiency when the difference in input and output voltage is small. So stepping down to 5V will be the least efficient. The other thing is the USB-C 2 and USB-A module does 3.3V - 11V 4.5A PPS, despite it not being listed in the spec. Typically, voltage conversion is most efficient at a specific rating, which is often around 75% of the max output. So the USB-C 2 and USB-A module may be less efficient when outputting 5V 2A, vs say 5V, 3A.

      Of course, since it is being run from batteries, then they also play a role in efficiency, since they will give less capacity at higher outputs. But this is very hard to account for without either detailed info from the battery manufacturer, or pulling the power bank apart and testing the conversion circuitry by itself.

      I am super curious now, so will run capacity tests on all outputs and various voltages / wattages.

      I just started the 5V, 2A directly into the Atorch capacity tester.

      One thing I noticed was that I get a fair bit of voltage drop - 4.63 V measured by the load tester when pulling 2A. (no load voltage is 4.99V) I tried a few different cables but got very similar results. If I put a USB tester directly into the power bank, and then the USB-A to C cable from that into the load tester, I measure about 4.85V at the power bank. The USB tester has large pads rated for high current over USB-A, which suggests the voltage drop is from resistance in the USB-A port making contact with the USB cable. This might indicate the USB-A port contacts are subpar. (This is also supported by USB-C 2 to USB-C having less voltage drop). The extra resistance is enough to dissipate a few Wh over the course of a test and could impact the results by 3% or so. (And would be a negative for the power bank)

      What no load voltage do you measure? And what voltage when pulling 2A?

      One thing you could try with yours is doing the same test, but using a USB-C to USB-C cable. The only hiccup is that not all USB-C to C cables will trigger the power bank to turn on the 5V. It has to be a cable with an eMarker - so for example a 100W USB-C cable. (Most 65W cables don't have eMarkers).

      You could run your same test on the USB-C 1, and USB-C 2 ports to compare. You could also try higher and lower amperages.

      One thing with testing. When recharging the power bank, leave it for at least a few hours past when it says 100%. These sorts of power banks use simplistic capacity measurement systems, so will say 100%, but will draw a few watts for a lot longer. For real world use the power bank is pretty much 100% charged when it says it is, but for accurate capacity testing the extra few Wh from the final slow absorption charge is needed.

      • Sorry, just realised I posted my reply to the main thread… reposting here under your comment.

        What no load voltage do you measure?

        From memory it was pretty low - somewhere around 4.6V I think?

        And what voltage when pulling 2A?

        Can't remember, sorry. I'll do the test again later and will let you know.

        I've got a USB-C/PD trigger module I can use to run a USB-C test so I'll run another test and I'll let you know.

    • Oh and since you have a load tester, you might be interested in some handy cheap additions. (Or maybe I am just USB testing obsessed :P)

      A USB-C trigger module is an easy addition to allow testing of higher voltages. I use this model (~$4.5) and it works well. Get the terminal version, and then connect it uses reasonably thick wire to the terminal input on your load tester. Then you can test whatever voltage you want. One thing to note is that you have to disconnect it from the load tester before using the other inputs at higher voltage. I had a similar trigger module connected to the load tester terminals, forgot to remove it, then fed 20V in via USB-C, and the trigger module did not enjoy 20V into its output!

      If you are looking for something to get over the $15 Choice free delivery, this Atorch tester is fantastic for $11.5 (+GST). You can use it to log Wh and see what voltages and currents are flowing over USB-C when charging a device. For example, seeing how many Wh it takes to charge a power bank (and seeing how long it charges for after saying 100%!). Or seeing if a phone or laptop etc is actually charging as fast as it should. Or how many Wh it takes to fully charge a phone etc.

      • Your links aren't working but I managed to see what you're talking about by editing the URLs. That second trigger module looks pretty handy, I'll grab one thanks!

        I've got a FNB48 USB meter which has a USB-C/PD trigger function so I use that but that $11.50 unit looks really handy.

        I've got a few of those trigger module boards in your first link lying around somewhere too :)

        • Ahhh right yep, I edited them because Aliexpress was doing its sporadic adding "vi" to the url and changing the language. But I am guessing I need to leave the https:// intact.

          But yeah, a FNB48 makes life easy!

          Those little testers are not quite as accurate because they can't be powered externally. But they only use about 0.07W themselves so the impact is quite small and only really needs to be accounted for in long duration tests. It's hard to perfectly account for connection resistance, but in my comparisons their actual measurement accuracy is quite good too.

          • @Prong: I'll just use the FNB48 as a USB-PD trigger for the Atorch capacity tester.

            USB-A voltage at rest: 4.88V - https://imgur.com/KZ49d7D
            USB-A voltage under load: 4.6V - https://imgur.com/BJXldpG (pretty horrendous voltage drop)

            My power bank has charged up so I'll let it charge for another 30 mins or so and start a 20V capacity test from OUT1 @ 20V/1A.

            Am I correct in understanding that OUT2 doesn't do 20V? My FNB48 isn't listing 20V as an option on that port.

            • +1

              @gyrex: Yep, OUT 2 is 5V, 9V or 12V, 3A. (The voltages and the splits when using multiple ports are listed on the back of the power bank).

              Though OUT 2 also does PPS 3.3V - 11V, 4.5A. This is not listed on the back of the power bank. And OUT 1 does not seem to have PPS.

              I don't have a FNB48 but my understanding is it can trigger PPS, and will show 3.3V - 11V, 4.5A as an option when selecting PD trigger on OUT 2.

              However the power bank sometimes seems to think it has to revert to all ports in use mode, which limits OUT 1 to 45W (20V, 2.25A), and OUT 2 and OUT 15W (5V, 3A). If you let it sit and turn it self off for a minute then try again it goes back to single port mode.

              With the voltage drop, one thing is that voltage converter that powers OUT 2 and OUT 3 appears to be set for 5V. But the USB spec allows for 4.75V to 5.25V at the charger end, so often they set the 5V as 5.1V to 5.2V. So then after normal voltage drops from cable and connection resistance, the voltage is closer to 5V. For example the INIU B6 outputs about 5.2V, and other power banks I have tested fall into the 5.1V to 5.2V range.

              If I connect the B62 to the Atorch tester via a chunky 240W USB-C cable, then I get more like 4.8V under the 2A load. So the USB-A port is definitely adding to the voltage drop. Yours is a bit higher than mine, which is probably from your long cable.

              The actual voltage conversion circuitry may not be holding the voltage steady enough under load. But to test that would require being able to measure the voltage on the circuit board internally. But probably the main culprit is not being set to 5.1V or higher!

              In normal use the 4.6V a device would receive is fine, because that is still high enough for to run 5V electronics, and to reach the 4.4V max or so needed to charge a lithium ion battery.

              • @Prong: My USB-C test just finished on OUT1. 20V @ 1A yielded 64.8Wh (88% of claimed capacity) - still pretty poor in my book. Most other power banks I've tested in the past will test at or above their stated capacity claim.

                https://imgur.com/G5japPx

                • +1

                  @gyrex: Yeah ok, so very similar to what I got at 20V.

                  My USB-A 5V 2A test did 58.2Wh (78.6%). Likely the difference is at least partially from lower cable / connection losses, and I would call them comparable.

                  It is below what I would consider reasonable but not problematic. I will do some more tests, but I suspect a combination of higher resistance contacts, and larger OUT 2 / 3 voltage conversion module losses. I will run a test and see how it does at 5V, 4.5A from OUT 3!

                  Out of interest, what power banks have you tested that give their rated capacity after conversion losses?

                  As a comparison, the Anker 737 battery capacity rating is 86.4Wh, and Anker gives a in use rating at 5V (no amperage given) of 67.5Wh (78%). I get 73.1Wh (84.6%) at 5V, 2A, and 75.3Wh (87.2%) at 20V, 1.5A. So much better than their given real world rating.

                  Or the ZMI No.20 - rated at 90Wh, and gives an in use rating of 70Wh (79%) at 5V, 6A. In my testing, 74.8Wh (84%) at 5V, 2A. And 78.2Wh (88%) at 20V, 1.5A.

                  As an example, the Southchip SC8815 voltage converter in the Anker 737 is rated for about 90% efficiency (which varies a bit depending on various factors). After other losses, the 89% is an expected result.

                  Generally anything over 90% of the rated capacity will be from the battery being larger capacity than rated. I can pull 111Wh from my 111Wh Baseus 30,000mAh 65W power bank, so the cells must be higher capacity than the power bank rating! (It notes a equal to or better than conversion rate of 75%)

                  But for something like the ZMI No.20, using 5x Samsung 50E 21700 5000mAh cells, the cells have tightly controlled spec so there isn't much scope for additional capacity.

                  The INIU B62 doesn't give an in use rating like the Anker 737 or the ZMI No.20. But IMO 88% is a good result. Especially at 65W (which I had tested) because it shows the cells are at least properly rated to provide the full output from 100% to 0%.

                • +1

                  @gyrex: 58.5Wh (79%) at 5V 2A from OUT 2.

                  The under load voltage was 5.88V, so less resistance in the connection using USB-C vs A.

                  Still not great conversion efficiency though.

                  Charging now then I'll try 5V 2A from OUT 1 and see if it's better.

                • @gyrex: 62.1Wh from OUT 1, at 5V, 2A. 84% of rated capacity available. Which is reasonable but not stand out result.

                  But it confirms OUT 1 conversion is more efficient than OUT 2 and 3.

                  But still less efficient at 5V than higher voltage. (supporting that the internal voltage is higher)

        • I forgot to add the results from a few other tests I ran.

          OUT1 - 15V, 3A (45W) did 66.25Wh (89.5%!). Which IMO confirms a 14.8V internal voltage.

          OUT2 - 9.6V, 4.4A (42W) on PPS mode, simulating 45W PPS charging. 62Wh, 83.8% of rated capacity.

          Which is a pretty good result IMO but again confirms OUT2 voltage conversion is less efficient than OUT1.

          OUT2 - 12V, 3A (36W) gave 63.5Wh (85.8%).
          An interesting result that suggests OUT2 is notably more efficient at higher voltage / current. Which is handy for running 12V devices.

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