This was posted 11 months 26 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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TTI 2000kg Ratchet Style Axle Stands - Pair $29.95 + Delivery (Sold out for C&C) @ Total Tools

1600

Great jackstands, Has the smaller adjustability of a ratchet mechanism jackstand but with the safety of a pin, best of both worlds.

Have a set and picked up another. Also nice that it meets safety standards (AS 2538:2016)

Specs:
Working load limit: 2000kg
Minimum Height: 295mm
Maximum Height: 434mm
Working Height: 422mm
Lift Range: 127mm

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  • +3

    Cheers mate. Almost bought the same from Tradetools for $45 :)

  • Any other equivalent? Long drive for pickup and $9 shipping… :/

  • +1

    Thanks op grabbed a set.

  • +1

    Thanks OP. Grabbed a set.

  • Is that 2000kg each? I wonder they are not for SUV perhaps.

    • +3

      Rating is per individual stand so 2000kg per corner Should be fine for suvs unless you have an armour plated humvee;) Even cheap stands will hold many times rated capacity. See project farm for examples.

      • +4

        Damn. So they wont suit the tank parked in my backyard

      • +1

        Ok great for EV DIY battery swap

  • Thanks

  • Thanks…grabbed a pair.

    • +18

      what about the stands?

      • +8

        Got a bit carried away……will buy the stands.

  • Cheers OP.
    Now i can comfortably service my own car and do minor repairs and maintanance

    • +1

      Been in hibernation or had your head where the sun don't shine for the last 9 months?

      • -3

        9months ? This economy issue has been brewing 12months before covid 19, learn some finance bruh.

        • +1

          Not that "the government" has great control over inflation when external factors like energy prices and building supplies bite, but has inflation dropped over the last 9 months or not? Grow up and do some reading about when inflation escaped RBA target rates and why. Annual trimmed mean inflation two years ago was manageable at under 3% and as you (cough) know the RBA's complacency on interest rates lulled consumers into a false sense of security. Their refusal to recognise that company profits were significant contributors to inflation hasn't helped.

          • @Igaf: Do you know that governments control/influence 80% of the price of petrol/diesel ? And truckies are the bloodline of OZ? There's the basic for you, have fun in trusting in the Big Brother.

            • +1

              @frewer: Big Brother? As I said above, grow up.

              Your cherry picking is typical of someone who has an opinion, but sfa understanding of the complex economics of his own country. All governments have some influence over fuel prices, some a whole lot more than others. Yes we know that the Australian federal govt takes excise on oil - it's a fundamental part of revenue raising which helps to pay for our standard of living - and education, even though some obviously didn't make full use of the latter. We -well those of us who bother to keep informed - also know that the primary reason for oil price hikes had nothing to do with Australian taxation if that's your angle. https://www.accc.gov.au/media-release/international-factors-…

              Not that it has a much to do with your initial comments but did you know that Australia's fuel prices are among the lowest in the OECD? Observe and read: https://www.aip.com.au/pricing/international-prices/internat…

  • -1

    They are very good. I had got a pair of 3000kg version for $20 a few years back. Each 3000kg.

    • +9

      You must be strong to carry those

  • So dumb question how do these work - can you put the car on the minimum height and then ratchet it up from there?

    • +3

      You'd still need a jack to lift it up (Like a trolley jack or a scissor jack that come with cars with a spare tyre).
      Once at a good height, just slide it underneath the jacking points.
      The ratchet isn't for lifting, just for smaller adjustments compared to a tradutional locking pin jack stand.

      • +3

        And NEVER get under a jacked vehicle unless there are stands or similar in place.

        • 💯, every time I rest the car on stands I shake the car to make sure it's stable. I also keep the jack with slight pressure on jacking point as backup

    • +3

      I take it you've never jacked up a car before, best to ask a friend that knows to show you how. Last thing you want to do is place the stand or jack in the wrong place. You'll F up and have a costly repair bill.

      https://youtu.be/D-3hm2ZGKmA

      • +1

        Ouch. He made at least four fundamental errors, but huge props for showing what happened as a lesson to others. First was not finding safe jack points on his car. Second was not aligning the jack saddle and car frame properly. Third was having the car's rear wheels on ramps which transferred weight forward and lowered the clearance at the front. Fourth was no chocks on front wheels. Easy to do though.

        Always a good idea to google for the best jack points on your vehicle if they aren't shown in a handbook, or jack on a front/rear cross member (and use stands) then check for solid jack points elsewhere.

      • @Bretttick Full video of what happened https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfB7YWZ5j6E
        Follow up with explanation https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2pddWSh520
        Jack got caught on uneven concrete and caused it to slide off. The positive is that he didn't get hurt and was insured.

        • +1

          5:30 says a lot about his two hockey "weight-rated" puck choice. There's a cross member but his jack is too high for it by the looks. Either that he couldn't be bothered opening the garage door to get access to that cross member.

  • I got some ALDI ones. will this be a necessary upgrade?

    • +2

      If the ALDI ones go high enough and are the correct weight rating for your car, then no.

    • Maybe not a necessary upgrade but these have a safety pin whereas the ALDI ones probably don't? Cheap insurance

  • +2

    I've been able to do plenty of my own car maintenance with $30 jack stands and a $30 Extreme Tough scissor on sale from Autobarn. All the standard fluid changes, shocks + struts, brakes, cv axels, engine mounts, some worn suspension parts and bushings, rust treatment etc.

    Great deal. You can honestly find some good ~$1500 used reliable car models around the place and just invest in some barebones DIY tools to renew their suspension plus some key maintenance and you've got yourself a great budget/learners car.

    • Any examples of $1500 cars?

      • Any 90's/00's model Toyota, Mazda, Subaru, etc - usually available for ~$1500 on marketplace. Plenty of newer Camry's as well .. always heaps of spares for those.

        • +2

          Clearly you are not from Sydney. Good luck finding a $1500 car in syd unless its a run down and written off.

          • @easternculture: Location doesn't really matter that much, assuming the car is drivable. Get a UVP, drive it home - expand your search area.

            • @ryang: Find me a car in sydney for $1500

              Location doesn't really matter that much

              • +2

                @easternculture: Do I have to do everything around here??

                https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/336967732524921/

                2002 Ford focus
                $900
                Listed 8 hours ago in Sydney, NSW
                Engine runs fine. The car sometimes doesn’t go in 3rd gear. Rego recently expired

                https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1723406098150890/

                2005 Volvo xc70
                $1,500
                Listed a week ago in Sydney, NSW
                Volvo XC70 2.5t AWD 2005 has a blue slip and a green slip, only needs to be registered. The car does have its issues and it needs a loving hand, but the major problems are in the sensors and electronics. They trip and overload the computer with electrical problems which puts the car in to reduced performance mode. Overall the inside and outside is in good shape. The interior is in very good condition. I don’t have time as I leave the country in upcoming weeks. Have new tyres and a spare. Not interested in swap. Can negotiate the price

                • @ryang: wonder if reduced perfomance mode is still driveable at highway speeds

                • +3

                  @ryang: Re volvo: sensors, electronics and ecu: at least 2k to 3k to reprogram. Needs rego too.

                  Ford focus: no rego, needs new gearbox, engine problems 250k on odometer . Best guess the guy has not serviced it and there is oil sludge. Also tyres look like they need changing which adds to cost.

                  These 2 cars are not DIY simple repairs and maintanance.

                  • @easternculture: You said find me a car in Sydney for $1500. Anything else on the requirements list?? Go look for yourself, I'm not your gopher.

                    • @ryang: That meet this description by @TrulyUnicorn

                      Thought you were following the reply thread

                      You can honestly find some good ~$1500 used reliable car models around the place and just invest in some barebones DIY tools to renew their suspension plus some key maintenance and you've got yourself a great budget/learners car.

                      The cars you linked to are not reliable nor easy fixes

                      • -1

                        @easternculture: I could post a dozen cars, but you'll make assumptions and prove me wrong. So I'm done.

                        • @ryang: Nope. Ive been looking months for a car around $2k to 2.5k that needs minor repairs etc as a run around car.

                          Couldnt find anything.

                          Anything less than $2k is a scammer as @Synapse29 said

              • +1

                @easternculture: haha yeah all thr under $2000 near sydney are scams or completeshitboxes

        • +1

          they will be like 3000-5000 now days

      • +1

        Dad's trying to get me to sell a (unused for 4 years) 2007 Ford BA XT with only 160,000 or something on the clock, slight roof hail damage, body is perfect, aftermarket leather seat covers. Champagne colour, dedicated lpg. Ran perfect before we let it sit. He wants it gone for like 1 - 1.5k, in SE Melb though.

        • I'll buy it

  • +3

    After seeing that the Supercheap stands I have on ProjectFarm getting Worst Product award last week I've just purchased these. Thanks for making me less likely to be crushed by my car.

    • I know you're sorted now with the new stands but I always put wheels and/or boards under the side of the car as a redundancy. It makes me feel a little bit better when I go underneath.

  • Does anyone know who manufacturers TTI?

    • TTI is the top level. They make other products under their umbrella - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Techtronic_Industries

      • That tti has nothing to do with this TTI which is Total Tools (Importing) Pty Ltd

        • Stands have the Techtronic Industries logo. TT sells TTi products

          • +1

            @Igaf: It's a different company. Tt(total tools industries) which is just one of their home brands.
            The other is techtronic industries which is the parent company of Milwaukee and heaps of other brands.
            different logo too

            • @Phesto: Not sure what point you're making. Yes, TTi and Total Tools are different companies. The former is Berkshire Hathaway, the latter Metchash Au.

              The (images of) the stands have the TTi logo so are >99.99% likely to be made by that company.

              • @Igaf: Can you share a pic? I have the jack stands in my hand and they don't have the techtonic industries logo, they have the total tools TTI logo

                • +1

                  @Phesto: Just double checked and YOU and jjoker are correct. Definitely Total Tools https://www.facebook.com/ttitools/ . When I originally looked that "cat" head logo came up under TTi so I associated it with B-H. Sorry. End of year brain fade.

                  • @Igaf: All good, I was hopeful they were techtonic too as I'm guessing they'd be higher quality, rather than just a home brand. Hopefully they're still alright

  • +1

    What other purposes that we can use these for? Just curious

    • hold car in the air, to do something underneath it.

    • +2

      If you have a home gym they could be a barbell rack for when you’re doing rows

      • They could prob double as dumbbells too

    • +2

      I use a pair to support a Murphy bed in my van conversion. Simple way to level the bed on uneven ground.

  • I bought a set of ramps from repco but thinking I should go jack stands and floor jack instead.

    Anyone have a recommendation for a good floor jack? Car is 1050kg

    • +3

      Ramps are nice for a quick oil change but won't let you work on any suspension components.

      For floor jacks you really just want to look at 2 things, height lowered and height raised.

      If you're working on a sports car or car with lowered suspension, you'd want a low profile jack since they have a lower than normal lowered height (but these tend to have a lower height raised as well, which makes it a little more annoying.

      I have one of these from about 5 years ago and still going fine. As mentioned above, it's a low profile so you don't get much height out of it.

      If you're willing to spend a bit more, take a look at dual pump jacks. They raise/lower the car significantly faster and also get a fair bit more ground clearance which makes it a bit nicer to work underneath the car (once you rest the car on jack stands). I have one similar to (this)[https://www.totaltools.com.au/150369-tti-2000kg-low-profile-trolley-jack-orange-t830018ob] , generally won't find them any cheaper than $200 mark on sale.

      • Thanks
        Orange is a fast colour but the fact that they only have 2 reviews on the site and 1 year warranty worries me a little
        A lot of the jacks on the supercheap auto site have reports of them failing after a few uses

      • Should've jumped on these when I still could last night. Not available for C&C any more but I still was able to make a delivery order. $14 delivery. Hopefully they don't cancel. I will have to return the ramps I got from Repco yesterday

  • Would these be good for mazda 3 and falcon?

    • +3

      yes

  • +1

    Guess why not.

  • Would these be not good enough for a toyota kluger, I think it is like 1900-2000 kg?

    • +1

      Yes, they're rates for 2000kg each so 2x is 4000kg

      I bought these years ago to do diff bushes on a territory (needed the extra height)

    • Interested too

    • Yes, but the working height is a little limited. You'll get 22cm or so of height gain under the axle or a chassis rail.

  • Thanks op, bought a pair.

  • +2

    For some reason i also had $10 worth of 'insider dollars' when I logged into my total tools account, just make sure you apply the amount when you process the order so this came down to $19.95

  • Thanks OP. Grabbed a pair.

  • Great price OP, thank you. I can’t believe I went to try a code I was given months ago for $10 off items left in my cart, and it still worked! Double score

  • +1

    Do you need 4 of those to do most work or 2 at the front is enough ? Sorry for noob question but I'm keen to do more work other than the occasional fluid change.

    • You could probably get away with 2 for just the front (depending on where your oil drain plug is).

      If it's like most, it'll be towards the rear of the oil pan which should be fine for an oil change (and would probably actually help drain the oil out leaning back)

    • Yeah I 2nd this question.

      For typical oil change, would just 2 be ok? I bought a pair but wonder if I should have bought a second set. Would it be dangerous at all? (Obviously I will chock the back wheels etc).

      Car is a Hyundia Getz (going strong 💪)

      • +1

        It's recommended to have at least 2 stable points, jack and axle stand is enough. If you want to be extra cautious, 2x axle stands and the jack is better.

      • +2

        Two stands with chocked wheels is perfect.

        I disagree completely with the comment above. You should never use a jack as a (second) stand if you intend to be under the vehicle because it is NOT stable enough and in rare cases (inc lack of maintenance) the hydraulics can fail. Using your spare wheel is a far better option if you have only one stand, although that may not give you adequate height

        • The habiby was is use bricks lol

          • @easternculture: Single column?

            You can get away with lots of crazy acts but all it takes is one simple accident (like someone bumping the car while you're under it, forgetting to chock the wheels etc) for a catastrophic outcome. Risk mgt is a combination of likelihood AND worst case outcome.

            • @Igaf: Yeh , just a stack of concrete bricks haha.

              I like the spare wheel trick, never thought of that

            • +3

              @Igaf: I imagine a car could EASILY crush someones ribcage or scull. I think if you're not willing to roll the dice on having someone wipe the drool from your chin and being feed through a tube… then safety first last and always.

              I used to be pretty lax about power tools, and after enough close calls I eventually had the thought, "surely I've checked in all my close calls, I can't have many left". It sort of hit me after an incident that nearly drilled a hole through one of my balls 😳 from that day on I've been a stickler for safety.

              • @Goremans: Sadly, being crushed beneath a vehicle is not as rare as some people might think. Yet people continue to cut corners.

              • @Goremans: I was once using a cutting wheel in a Dremel with no goggles, and in a nano second the cutting wheel just disappeared. Just gone, instantaneously.
                I never found it, it must have flown off into the air at 1,000,000 metres per second - luckily not towards me.

                I won't forget the goggles again.

      • 2 is perfect for the job

    • You only need 2 if your working on the front end, whether it's for oil change or brakes changing any parts from underneath like an alternator/starter motor etc.

      If you can't place them under the k-frame because of oil drain bolt, jack the car from the k-frame and place jacks under the seal panels, you should place it where the 2 metal pieces overlap. That the strongest point, placing it behind that will most likely crumble. If you don't know what your doing ask someone that does to show you.

      Otherwise could end up costing you a lot for repairs or worse thinking it's safe when you under and getting seriously injured

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