4x4 Suggestions for Offroad Adventures

Call it what you will but lets not label it a midlife crisis just yet.

Are there any people who are into offroad adventures?

I have a plan and it requires a 4x4 with a bit of clearance. It needs to be auto and diesel (so I have been told) and have enough guts to pull a van/camper of which I don't yet have.

Around 20k mark if that is doable. No finance can up it if I need to. Don't know where to start or what make/ model? I don't have any car people around to help me.

Interested to see what you all suggest.

Comments

  • i have a Pajero and a Subaru. both can so some offroading.

    depends on the offroading you're planning.

    is it the "how far can i go until i get stuck"
    is it the "lets just explore this area with care"

    • wanting to go to a gold lease.

      • What is gold lease,? Would it be like climbing rocks?

        • Prospecting lease.

          no not big rocks.

          This post was from last year. I ended up buying a different car for city driving and will be doing up our old car next year as a bunky.

          • @angywoo: Sorry, Thanks!

            What car btw?

            So also 4wd which have the front snorkel is that so they can go partially underwater?

  • +1

    Define "a bit of clearance".

    How big will your van/camper be? How much will it weigh? How many people will be in the car with you? How much do you expect to pack?

    These are critical measurements.

    • I wouldn't have a clue. Most likely a jayco poptop type thing.

  • +1

    If you're OK with used there are plenty of capable 4x4 dual cab utes aound $20K

  • +4

    For that money you'll get a very high km Prado or Hilux - very reliable but will be tired.
    Else
    Navaras, Tritons or are good value for money without the Toyota Tax.
    Rangers are fitted with Auto Transmissions that self combust (get a manual if so)
    Amaroks will just one day decide to throw every warning light under the sun at you.

    Any Diesel post 2015 will have a DPF and EGR fitted as standard, these are a nightmare to deal with if you regularly drive around town and don't manage to get out onto the highway every week.

    Stay 2014 or earlier if Diesel

    • DPF and EGR don't know what that is.

      • Two things that will make your $20k car a $30k car.

        Diesel Particulate Filter
        Emissions Gas Recirculation valve

        Both get clogged up with soot over time and will organically fail/need a serious clean out after ~200,000k's if drive ok, less if driven around the city.

        Sometimes it happens at short notice, backs up the system and grenades the engine.

        • ok so pre 2015?

          • @angywoo: Lots of pre 2015 cars with dpfs, and everything has an egr since approximately the 1990s.

      • Not looking good for your foray into plumbing the depths of isolated back roads, then.

        • no its not. They don't make it easy

  • +3

    For 20k, the best bang for buck would be the Mitsubishi Pajero.
    Check the video on it from redriven on yt, they resumed quite everything.
    My old got one for 10 years and still strong, not like his previous discovery and patrol which have terrible reliability records despite being among the best off road.

    • +1

      fyi: upto and including MY16 had NO DPF

      • It's not up to, as the NS and NT did have DPF. The NS had a lot of trouble with them though it was eventually resolved via recalls. Late NT might've had DPF on the autos only, it's been a while and I can't recall for certain.

        Still a great recommendation. You don't pay the Toyota badge premium so get a better equipped vehicle for cheaper that's just as capable.

        • which year paj should I look for?

        • It's not up to, as the NS and NT did have DPF. The NS had a lot of trouble with them though it was eventually resolved via recalls. Late NT might've had DPF on the autos only,

          From the first Gen 4 NS late 2006 auto pajero had an open DPF. Yes it was a pain and no the recall didn't resolve the problem. It was resolved by removing the DPF. The EGR problem was resolved by fitting a EGR delete cable.

          Early NT had a DPF. It was discontinued in the later ones. The early NW didn't have a DPF but from late 2015 it did. The NX has a DPF.

          As Apsilon said, EGRs have been around for yonks.

          An aside. My one owner 2007 Pajero diesel NS is pushing 360,000 kilometres.

          Don't forget the TOYOTA drama with the DPF.

    • I had never heard of redrived. subscribed thanks.

      • I meant ReDriven, but I assume you found them.

        • yep I found them an have had a good binge. Thanks

  • +3

    If you want a good all rounder that is great value. I would consider a pajero that is in the late 2000s.

    The only negative about petrol 4x4 is the running cost & it doesn't have the torque for the pulling power compared to the diesel. The difference is almost becoming negligible now, since diesel cost more per litter then diesel. However, a consideration would be getting a dual fuel (lpg/petrol powered) 4x4. It will be cheaper to run then a diesel & if your stuck somewhere where there no lpg, you can still drive around on petrol.

  • -1

    Get a RAM. Always juxtapose your ability with the end result

  • +3

    70s Lada Niva.

    • +1

      в этом есть смысл. ваше здоровье

      • +1

        Зарабатывает центы. Ваше здоровье.

        • clearly you have found google translate. HA!

          50/50 Russian Ukrainian here

      • Put it in "H"

  • You need a Canyonero, a Kentucky fried truck that’s endorsed by a clown!

    But I’m all seriousness as above a Paj is the undiscovered gem of the 4WD world

  • Holden Jackaroo

  • Your mother in-law's front wheel drive SUV

  • +3

    955 Cayenne overlander

  • +1

    First you need to decide wether you want a ute or a wagon. There is pros and cons to both. We have both. Wagon is more comfortable and more secure for your gear. Wagon has better storage if you want dust and waterproof. Ute is better if you want to dart around dirty stuff, like firewood full of spiders. You put can lay the seats down and sleep in a wagon.

    Next you really need to work out wether the 4wd you want is for touring off the beaten track or going as far as possible up that rocky, muddy, sandy trail. A decent stock 4wd will go a lot further than many people give them credit for, but you may end up wanting lift kits, bar work underbody protection etc. again, I’ve done both. My ute has been thrown at some fairly hardcore tracks and got decent tyres, bullbar and rear bar and used them. Haven’t gone to winch yet. Our wagon will be parked and we’ll walk as required.

    If you want cheap ($20k is a cheap 4wd), the Suzuki grand Vitara is very good value for money. A bit more limited on clearance and tow capacity but quite capable off road. Otherwise Mitsubishi 4wds are capable triton, challenger, Pajero. Toyotas come with a premium price tag and Nissan are quite good too.

    You are starting out so go ‘do some research’ on what you really want and come back with more specific questions - or a shortlist of 3-4 vehicles. At The moment your question is a bit too open to get a decent response from the keyboard warriors. Put your budget into carsales, limit to 4wd and off you go.

    Auto and diesel is ostensibly better off road, but manual 4wd has its pros as well and petrol will be a lot cheaper to buy and service but cost more in fuel especially if it’s a tow rig.

    Keep in mind that $20k 4wds will be well used and the market is strong for used 4wds. You will be looking at a few years old and quite a few kms. Not saying they’ll all be flogged to death, just that you probably won’t get one much less than 200k km or 10yo.

    In recent times friends have bought a 2007 Hilux with 220k for under $20k. A 2008 patrol with about $180k for $25k both in good condition. Then 2 others have bought petrol Prados for under $10k with around 200k, but pretty rough looking. All got plenty of life left and all very capable.

    • I really appreciate the time taken to respond. Thanks.
      Can I PM you?

      • Guess so. No idea how that works though.

  • +1

    Just borrow 100k and go too shelf. It will pay itself back in no time after you visit the gold lease!

    • Wouldn't need to borrow. Cash is boss.

  • +2

    Sounds like you are a bit unsure on what you need and what you plan to do. I think first develop a plan and then look at what you need.

    You need to know what you want to tow (or at least a maximum weight) and then know whether you need a Ute or a Wagon. Ute would provide more space and can have tray, tub or canopy.

    Need to plan more and know what you plan to do before asking for suggestions or looking at stuff.

    Just my 2 cents.

    • OP has all the makings of riding shotgun in someone else's rig. Well, until it gets bogged, that is.

      • My Boxer will ride shotgun.

    • +1

      I am absolutely unsure of the finer details.

      All I need is a bit of clearance and a 4x4 to pull a camper trailer/van maybe under 3000kg

      • +1

        3t is a pretty big rig. Wind up campers are more like 1800kg. Rule of thumb for campers is get the smallest your ego will allow. Go smaller if you want to take it off road. (Gravel roads are not off road).

        • This is my thought. Just wanting small as in a few steps up from a swag. Not some massive nomad van.

          Used to live in the wheatbelt. So not meaning unsealed roads or 2km driveways.
          Used to have a bush basher, duel cab, farm ute rodeo.

      • Look at a Ford Ranger. Not sure on other makes/models, but I have a PX3 3.2L Ford Ranger and very happy with it.

        • +1

          ok will do thanks

      • All I need is a bit of clearance and a 4x4 to pull a camper trailer/van maybe under 3000kg

        Hang on there. 3.000kg?

        Because the manufactures say the vehicle will tow 3,000 or 3,500kg doesn't mean it will do it comfortably. You will go from 11 litres per 100k to 16 to 17 litres per 100k.

        Anything you buy second hand will have tired suspension that will need to be upgraded for the 3,000kg you are towing, plus you will need an electric brake system fitted if the tow vehicle doesn't have on fitted.

        Sorry, I don't think you have thought this through.

        • You know a camper trailer? as in a tent on a trailer. One of them. Maybe down the track a jayco finch type pop top.

          3000/3500 is what most of the cars are saying so not the 2500 versions.

          You are right I don't anything about cars. All I know is I want/need a car that can go off road. The van/camper is just an added thought.

  • ML 3.2L or MN 2.5L triton. The MN has an overheating issue up til 2014, but I have a 2015 and been very good.

  • Go a wagon, ute's suck from a utility perspective. Yeah you'll pay more, but whatever.

    all that criteria means an older Everest, Pajero or equivalent Nissan. If you want non-dpf variant, you'll have to go a model before they started coming out with them, which is a bit of a safety thing in very remote areas IMO. If not, just install an oil/air separator from Ryco (their branded one in a kit) and use C4 oil only, ignoring all other recommendations. Doing this will keep the DPF trouble free for the most part. I would even spend the money on having the DPF cleaned professionally, but have it flow tested first, then base a cleaning or replacement on those numbers.

    Install AGM starter battery, as big as will fit. Swap standard radiator cap for an 18psi one. That's about it.

    Another thing is replacing all the engine hoses with silicone ones. In terms of keeping you out of trouble, I think it's worth it. For popular models there are hose replacement kits available. For other vehicles they have to be custom made and that's like a 1k job.

    I usually charge for my opinion, but in this case I'll let you have a free one for Christmas.

    • I think free is about the ballpark if you're not recommending a Mann Hummel catchcan, and point to a Ryco.

      • Been using them for years. Ryco makes a good unit, very solid. Going to have more bits and pieces availability than a Mann Hummel anything, too.

        https://rycofilters.com.au/part/rcc351k and other variants with kits designed all ready to go in particular vehicles (location and everything).

        • The only consumable needed for M& H is a filter.And for an engine in good condition & better, they last 30-45K kms between changes. They keep on keeping on.They are the standard to compare all others with, based on their background research,testing and time in this tech area. Ryco is likely to be good, or good enough. But M & H are leaders in the field. I think Ryco would be fairly chuffed to be compared 2nd best , in any case.

          • @Protractor: If it's based on price, go with what's cheaper I guess. Probably can't go wrong with MH, but if the price isn't right, I'd just go with the Ryco. Seems more well made anyway, IMO. I went with Ryco units in the first place after inspecting both.

    • Thank you 😊
      I need to google what dpf is.
      When you say older. What year do you suggest?

      • I need to google what dpf is.

        www.google.com.au

      • A DPF is only really a problem if you don’t regularly (ie monthly) drive highway speeds for an hour or so.

        • What clogs them up is EGR in normal everyday driving. 50% at idle isn't uncommon. A Crankcase Filter with a 1micron screen and low ash (C1 or C4) oil prevents this problem occurring. On top of that, a Crankcase Filter will prevent the intake manifold getting backed up with deposits, so helping prevent another problem.

          I don't trust a highway drive above 40 km/h for at least 20 minutes (manual gear selection to maintain rpm between 2000 and 3000), per tank, to prevent a dpf clogging up with ash, no freaking way.

  • +1

    have enough guts to pull a van/camper of which I don't yet have.

    What is the ball weight of said van/camper?

    https://bigrigs.com.au/2023/12/12/police-reveal-results-from…

    • pull a van/camper of which I don't yet have.

      • +1

        Yup, and they all have different ball weights depending on model, spec etc.

        You can weigh 5 of the same model and the weight will be different.. Also the advertised ball weight is usually fictional.

        YMMV

        • but can't you add a ball and choose the weight then?

          • +1

            @angywoo: No.
            every model car has a limited towball weight and towing weight

            every individual trailer has its own ball weight and overall weight.

            Those caught exceeding weight limits while towing caravans in Queensland can expect fines of up to $287 and three demerit points, $469 and three demerit points in NSW, $238 to $1580 in Victoria, up to $591 in South Australia and $130 to $735 in Tasmania.

          • @angywoo: I think I know what you mean. Yes, you can add a tow ball later and then choose a van that works with the car's limit.

            But not all cars are the same. For example, a Ford Ranger XLT has a 3.5 tonne limit but the Ford Ranger Raptor only has a 2.5 tonne limit.

            Also, the limits vary for each car on whether the trailer has breaks or not. Most of the time, a 3.5 tonne limit is with brakes on the trailer.

            • +1

              @geekcohen: Trailers over 750kg will need brakes.

              Don’t get carried away with the max rating for your vehicle. Just because a dial cab ute can tow 3500kg doesn’t mean it can in the real world. It’s quite likely if you max out on towed weight you’ll be over GCM (combined trailer and tug weight) if you have a couple of passengers on board.

              It’s not easy to work with. Look up some caravan weight sites to get more idea.

              • +2

                @Euphemistic:

                Just because a dual cab ute SAYS IT can tow 3500kg doesn’t mean it can in the real world

                Never a truer word spoken….

              • @Euphemistic: Yes, all your points are valid. All requires a bit of calculation.

            • @geekcohen: I think I will be looking for a car with 3 tonne braked.

              I can get a swag. The car is the most important thing the trailer/van is just a thought.

              • @angywoo: Okay. You need to know whether you need a Ute or a Wagon. Ute would provide more space and can have tray, tub or canopy.

                I have a Ute with a Canopy (ARB) over the Tub and it is great.

              • +1

                @angywoo: Pretty much any true 4wd will tow a camper trailer. Just don’t expect them all to tow a family bunk van with ensuite and water tanks, most will but not all.

                Have a bit of a look at caravan styles you might be interested in and check their weights. You might find that what you need/want is a lot lighter than 3t. If you only need one bed and not fussy about bells and whistles you should be able to get much closer to 2t.

                We just sold a large off road expander caravan and it was around 2.7t ATM. While our cars ‘can tow 3.5t’ our new van is just under 3t to be sure we don’t go overboard when the family is loaded up.

                You’re obviously very early in this process. Don’t rush out and buy anything today, go visit some van sellers and see what they offer. Check out some camper trailers. You don’t need to buy one yet either, but it’d be nice to know your car will tow what you might purchase in the future rather than having to upgrade when you do want to purchase.

                • +1

                  @Euphemistic: Thanks for your reply. I am in the very, very early stages. All I know is I need a car that can go off road.

                  Great advice. I am more interested in getting a 4x4 over a van/camper but don't want to limit ourselves to a car that can't pull a camper trailer. If that makes sense.

                  I wanted to get a car this weekend. I guess I need to be more measured. I have dubbed 2024 the year of trying new things and stepping out of complacency. Maybe it is a mid life crisis.

                  • @angywoo: Good for you! I have quote on my desk - I think it's from a Mary Oliver poem - that states "A brand new abyss - don't fill it up with old things" in reference to a new year, or any sort of new start. Of course life tends to go on as normal and get in the way.. but it's something to aim for. Go for it.

                    • @miwahni: Thanks. I am excited and looking forward to this new chapter. I guess for me, the most exciting part is not knowing anything about what I am planning on doing. I have had this idea for about 7 years. It started as a little fire in my belly and now I am in a place in my life, where I can grab it with both hands and run with it.

                      I really like that quote. I often have quotes/verses that inspire me although I might need to find myself an updated verse for 2024. For years, I have had Proverbs 13:20 as my go to. It is along the lines of show me your friends and I'll tell you your future. I think I need to find one that resonates.

  • +3

    This is never gunna happen

    • what is not going to happen?

      • +1

        The whole scenario. But I have an apology speech ready, for when you post the pics of the rig+camper+you, on the 'gold mining lease'.

        • Ok fair enough. It is people like you, who people like me, thrive on knowing.

          Thank you for your honesty.

          I hope that your aspirations become reality and that you do not lead a stagnant life. As life is too short not try things outside your comfort zone. Unless that is what you are aspiring to achieve. Then I hope you get there.

          • +1

            @angywoo: Thanks, you are soooo sweet. Don't forget to upload the snaps from your 'outside the comfort zone' prospecting, rig an all.

            • @Protractor: Sounds like you want to tag along.
              Let me know if you do. We can have a photo together. Let me know if you have your miners right and we can get the ball running. I hope you are serious as I'm not into time wasters.

              1400ft skydiving has been my highlight so far. Would never do it again. Ever.

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