Best Car under $10,000 for Massive Highway K's

Im looking for a car that I can reliably and cheaply (parts/fuel) put ~50,000km on in a year 99% interstate sealed surface Highway drives, but I only have a $10k budget .. can stretch to $15k for the right car

What would be my best option?

My only ideal is something that will have cruise control.. lowest fuel economy (at highway speeds) is a must. Beyond that it can be the most stripped boring thing out there, only needs to hold myself and some small luggage, auto or manual

This is for a new job I have an opportunity with that would require week on week off work 700km away for the first year so I'm not intending to move my family as after that year I will be home

Comments

  • +73

    Newest Camry you can afford.

    • +5

      Cannot go wrong

    • +1

      Don't get az fe engine though

      • Nothing wrong with azfe engine I've done 484 thousand km & no issues at all, don't use any oil I get it serviced every 10k .

        • What model & year?

          • @Roobah: 2009 camry altise 2.4 azfe

    • +1

      LOW kms would be very important considering OPs massive highway travel
      6 cyl Camry will do much better and last longer as very fuel efficient on highway

      • +10

        Low kms is less important that condition IMO. No point getting a very low km car and paying the premium for it when you’re going to end up with a high km car anyway. Better getting one with a good service history and a reputation for reliability.

        Whatever you get, just make sure it’s not due for a timing belt.

        • Good condition and service history is ALWAYS a GIVEN.

          But as OP says they will be doing High KMs
          No point getting a car with high kms to begin with regardless of service history.
          As cars get older (read more kms) they cost more to run and require more replacement parts.
          That hardly spells "reliability and cheap"

          A car with low kms will always have far less wear and tear and will hence reliably go a greater distance.

          Thats why they are snapped up quickly and have better resale value my friend

          • +2

            @HeWhoKnows:

            A car with low kms will always have far less wear and tear and will hence reliably go a greater distance.

            Well that’s obvious. I wasn’t trying to say get a car with high kms, but rather pointing out paying more for a low km car rather than an average or slightly high km car may be a waste of money. Higher km than average after a year effectively costs you more. You will have gone from high price to low price on average.

            Personally I’d be willing to pay $1-2k less for a 180,000k car in good condition with a service history than a 120,000km car in good condition with a bump or scrape or an incomplete service record - even if the buyer said it was always serviced.

            But it also depends on your risk appetite. Some people think a car is all but dead over 150k. I Just bought a 2004 car with 180k on it and have another in the drive with plenty of mechanical life left at 215k.

            • @Euphemistic: yep. If you are good at chosing cars and so know what to look out for thats all fine.

              But for most people who dont know much about cars, the general rule of thumb is to find the cheapest car with low kms, plenty of rego and good service history.

              In OPs case the qualifier is "intended high kms use" so much better to start with low kms and look after the car.
              Otherwise OP will need to replace the car sooner rather than later.

              Cheers

              • @HeWhoKnows:

                Otherwise OP will need to replace the car sooner rather than later.

                Unlikely.

                It's also basically a 1 year rental, so it's probably not worth fixing anything that pops up unless it's brakes or tyres.

                • @miicah: Possibly. But one never knows what the future brings

            • @Euphemistic: in Sydney always serviced means never serviced unless substantial proof is provided

        • +1

          I'd always go for one a little over-due for a timing belt .. and then do the timing belt!

  • +21

    An PHEV or EV or Hybrid is not a good idea since at highway speeds, they kinda suck - plus you're not getting any at 10k or 15k unless it's an old Nissan Leaf

    You'd probably want a diesel sedan, and replace the tires with eco tyres, ideally - if you can, a profile that is slightly narrower (to reduce front cross-section) but still with an equal or greater weight rating, remove any antennas but keep any rear eco spoilers. Pump the tires to a higher but okay pressure. ie: not the pressure mentioned on door frame. If you cant be bothered thinking about it .. stick it to 38PSI all tyres.

    Weight of car is only an issue on acceleration and deceleration and up hills and down hills.

    You want a sleek car with good highway fuel economy.

    • +2

      Yep, agree (as a hybrid owner). Great for the commute from the M4 tunnel along Parramatta Road to Broadway, not so much from Cumberland Highway to the M4 tunnel

    • +13

      This guy aeros.

      • once-upon-a-time owner of a Prius C .. so .. i have to !

    • +2

      replace the tires with eco tyres

      Fine if you don't drive in the wet, otherwise I'd keep to a non-eco tyre so you've got grip in the wet.

      a profile that is slightly narrower

      You mean a narrower section width, the profile is the sidewall height and going narrower will affect speedo reading and contribute to a rougher ride.

      Pump the tires to a higher ………. stick it to 38PSI all tyres.

      Are you a farkin' maniac? That'll make it a sh17 ride and wear out the centre of the tyre unnecessarily. Plus if you hit any potholes you're more likely to blow the sidewall and bend the rim.

      10k or 15k unless it's an old Nissan Leaf

      Is that the price or the range you're quoting (or both)

      • +3

        Yeah sorry you're right.
        Narrower section-width.

        dont care about the profile (side wall)

        re:38PSI ..okay . fine .. 35PSI - just anything that ISNT 24/22 psi

        • +3

          My cars required pressure is 37 psi, I do 38 all the time. I never have n issue with the centre wearing prematurely, it's always the outer edge that wear faster, esp the left front. Putting it down to taking corners a bit fast, the camber of the road, and the turning wheels.

          Understand that this guys is looking for under 10k, but if he can lease a MG4 then at 50k km per year he could be paying less for the lease than he is for petrol and servicing. Really should look into this option

          • @Jackson: good idea

            • +2

              @FoxJump: I run mine at 42 because I know I'm going to be in stop start traffic most of the time…. no uneven wear, no issues.

              Think about how hot they'd get doing 110km for 3 hours, and subsequently how high the pressure would be.. it goes up about 5 psi and I've never heard explicitly of country drivers complaining about uneven wear. Maybe it's a thing beyond 50 psi.

    • I use a lot of rentals for work at the moment, 40ish per year. I regularly use hybrids and non hybrid corolla's. On highway driving the fuel usage of the hybrid and non-hybrid corollas is very similar so if you are mostly driving highway KMs the extra cost of buying hybrids is not worth it. I also notice on all the hybrids I rent, corollas, Rav4s and Klugars the fuel usage on highway is actually a little more than around town, usually a couple of l/100 KM .
      Another friend who owns a hybrid Klugar and who tracks his fuel usages said he gets around 5l/100 KM around town and around 8l/100 KM on the highway.
      Of course were hybrids really shine is in urban areas or stop start traffic.

    • +20

      298,700 km

      Lol, only 1,300km until odometer reads 300000, why would he sell it now and miss out on that big event?!

      • +8

        maybe it's a perk he wishes to sell

      • so he can say under 300,000kms low odo

    • +2

      I would second a Passat or a Golf. Both have similar fuel economy but a smaller tank on the Golf so slightly more frequent stops. Max range 1535km on Passat 66L vs 1111km on the Golf 50L tank. Put some money on the side for the clutch replacement as I imagine most of these are for sale now as owners don't want to spent thousands on it. Also roadside assistance. :D

      • +1

        The prob with a cheap VW is your rolling the dice. You might get a great comfortable car, or you might find yourself with an expensive nightmare. I've had both, and the latter was enough to put me off them for good. (Both bought new or near new in my case)

      • +1

        If a golf, go for a Mk6 Bluemotion. 1.6 diesel manual. Will be within OPs price range and highway fuel consumption is 3.4L/100k.

        Given the price of diesel, this should get you your 700km trip for under 50 bucks in fuel.

        Ensure you stick to or do better than the 15k service intervals and use the right oil, don't cheap out.

  • +1

    have a look at ecomoders online to get ideas on how to hobo your car so it is more sleek.

    • I don't think I've ever seen one of these ecomod cars in person. Looking at the forum some of the stuff they do is wild.

      • hence the "hobo" your car remark

    • +1

      They're speed holes.

  • +5

    Do you have any other transport options available, apart from driving?
    A 700km trip is not ideal to undertake by yourself.

    • +8

      That's no worry, I work as a sales rep and do this regularly anyway, have done almost 100,000km this year…. But that's in a company car with company fuel

    • +6

      This, 700km from Melbourne sounds like Canberra, Sydney or Adelaide, $10k + car costs would probably pay for flights once a week and significantly less travel time.

      7 days on, 7 days off is really 9 days on, 5 off when driving. Assuming the 7 on are extended hours it sounds like taking a shortcut to burnout and a car accident.

      • $10k + car costs would probably pay for flights once a week and significantly less travel time.

        "Significantly less" is a bit of a stretch.

        What if OP lives 1 hour from the airport. They need to travel there (and pay ~$25 each way). They need to get their early enough to checkin etc.

        You're also assuming that the destination is close to an airport or transport.

        Suddenly that "1h30m" flight becomes a much larger ordeal. And to top it off, OP doesn't have a car to use whilst at the destination.

    • 700 klm isnt far really just need to have your breaks. I know a quite a few have to do a lot more than that each day for work.

      • Agree. Been there done that. If you take it steady it is a long day behind the wheel but doable as long as you don’t repeat it too many days in a row.

        • +2

          I used to do exactly 700km trips myself, not daily but every Friday and Sunday.
          From Albury Wodonga to Newcastle for work. Did that for about a year which is 72,000km, it's a 7hr trip with light traffic but with smart stops anywhere up to 10 hours usually.

          Sometimes I'd fly to have a break but considering boarding times and waiting for busses/trains at the other end, the time saving is less than you'd think and still exhausting. So I just drove most of the time.

          That said, after WFH for 4 years, I couldn't hack it anymore.

  • +13

    Good old Falcon with a Barra straight six!

    • The engine will last forever, but will cost you an extra $3k in fuel each year (8L/100km v 5L/100km for 50,000km).

      • +4

        They are ultra cheap to buy, spares are cheap & plentiful,fuel? Absolutely, they are a big car though.But there is also the Egas & Ecolpi gas variants.Ultra reliable. 8L/100? You must have been dreaming, try closer to 10!A bargain I say!

        • +4

          I get 8.2 L/100km doing mostly highway cruising in my 2009 Falcon FG XR6 (using just standard petrol), purchased it for 9K at the start of the year.
          My last car (2003 Falcon) lasted me 17 years (2005 - 2023, and it is actually still running), that was getting a fuel economy around 9.5 on the same highway driving route.

          I can recommend the Falcons and Barra engines from experience.

        • +1

          I got roughly 7.5L/100km in my AU ute on a return trip Brisbane->Bundaberg. They are pretty good on the highway.

    • Barra engines are way too thirsty for this sort of highway driving

      • @stephhendt since when?

        • since diesels can do 5L/100km no worries

          • @jrowls: Who really cares about fuel costs, I don’t. My Hybrid is actually in the high 3L/100.

    • +3

      It really is hard to beat the good ol Commodore or Falcon for Highway driving. So much more comfortable

    • +3

      Haha, your posts are so wildly inconsistent in terms of your ideological outlook. Have a +1.

      • Some sarcasm is so obvious people deny it could actually be. Some climate science is so obvious, they deny it even more. But to deny we are more than overpopulated when you look at the list of carnage that has exploded in the last 50 years is an entree into our own self fulfilling prophecy. There had better be a God to rescue us, because mercy is about the only viable option now. As an atheist , I'd say we'd be better off getting our business in order, especially if your 50 or younger.
        Humans (too many of) drive almost every negative impact on earths biota and our own species.
        On this topic I'm happy ppl neg me into invisibility, becuase they know I'm right, and I might fade away but the issue they deny,will just amplify .
        Thanks for the +1

        • +2

          Probably better to start your own thread.

    • we are all doomed, so may as well go out with a smirk

      • May as well. DILLAGAF prevails. Give the kids something interesting to hear from Mum & Dad as they try to articulate the massive role they played in stepping up.Or justify the opposite.

  • +3

    For fuel efficiency get a 1.0L 3-cylinder with cruise, here's one listed at $9,400

    • +1

      i had a 1.0L 3-cylinder daihatsu charade that would sit on 130 km with no problem. (even with 4 grown men in it)

      and the fuel efficiency was awesome .

      or even a small diesel engine

      2011 Renault Megane Privilege $8000 with 1.5 litre diesel

      • I used to have a Fiat 500 1.3L diesel, fabulous highway economy but marginal on seat comfort for long drives; and afflicted at times with confounding DPF issues, as with all common rail diesels.

        • +2

          i saw those, but yes, a small car - not fun for extensive driving , and not very visible to trucks.

          correct link to car sales ad for 2011 Renault

      • @altomic the turbo version?

        I had one in 97… it was MIIIINT!
        spinning up the wheels at the trafic lights by mistake on the test drive :)

        • nah, just the standard. it was an awesome car. only sold to move overseas.

    • +3

      Small cars get blown around a lot by passing trucks and heavy winds. Not ideal for hwy driving.

    • I drove one of these once and it was surprisingly nice. Good choice

  • +10

    if HWY k's go a diesel, the euro's such as Skodas/VW's can get into the 4l's/100km when driven (admittedly it's still a euro). Else if you may be doing a bit of stop start driving a petrol Camry/Corolla will do, but man they're bland.

    • +1

      but man they're bland.

      Much like highway driving.

    • -8

      Downvoted by people without a clue yet again. What a surprise!!

    • +2

      look, I didn't downvote and the HDi 2.0 is a great diesel engine and I have one in my 407 - but it absolutely isn't trouble free elsewhere and parts are extortionate in pricing. Japanese or a more popular euro diesel are smarter choices when you consider everything else wrapped around the engine.

      • +1

        Do they not have Aisin autos? People swear by this engine. What on earth kind of problem are you expecting to have that is so catastrophic? Even my 1.6THP has been faultless. I know it’s not a perfect engine but none are, and the improvements over the years have certainly been for the better. I’ve only changed the timing chain tensioner as a precaution. It gets good oil and the engine is as good as new. No doubt it will need a walnut blast at some point but that’s normal for any direct injection engine. I don’t find parts prices that bad and they can be imported from UK or France quite cost effectively too. The most common problem with the 508 seems to be window regulators and that’s a cheap fix. The unreliability of modern Peugeots is a myth. They are well made and dependable vehicles. It’s owner neglect that causes problems.

        • I can echo this sentiment, I've been using my 508 for long trips on highways. It's a little over 10 years old and has been very reliable. I've replaced 3 out of 4 window regulators now, they have a plastic piece taking tension that becomes brittle and always breaks the same way. Bit annoying, but only takes about an hour and $30 to fix.

  • +4

    Mondeo Diesel MB (go with the Zetec/Titanium, for the better sound system - the pov pack one is shithouse)

    Great handling and suspension to soak up highway bumps with plenty of power for overtaking.

    DO NOT consider the MC Series with the Powershit Dual Clutch!

    If you can stretch the budget a little, get into a MD series with fewer k's (Ford dumped the Powershit for the MD series for obvious reasons)

    • +5

      This guy knows powershit!

    • The dual clutch in the Ford mondeo diesel MC is a wet clutch and far less issues than the non diesel versions.

      Because of this stigma you may get the MC diesel dual clutch cheap, and yet have no issues.

      • far less issues

        That's like saying getting kicked in the nads is better if the kicker is wearing sneakers rather than steel caps.
        Yeah, probably, but why elect to get kicked in the nads at all?

        It certainly didn't make them anywhere near as reliable as a normal Auto and when something goes wrong (and it will), the repair costs are still just as ridiculous as for the Dry Clutch variants.
        If the wet clutch was a good idea, they'd have kept it for the model following the MC, but like I said, Ford killed Dual Clutch for a reason in the MD model.

        • they actually kept the powershift (dual clutch gearbox) in MD diesels but removed them in petrol engines. I have got MC diesel with 330k on odo, and it is a very nice car, the dual clutch is not as smooth as the regular auto, but you are getting used to it.

          • @Ametric: I stand corrected.

            I also had a MC Diesel, I agree that it was a decent car, (although the hesitation of the Powershit in pressure situations where you were on then off then on the throttle again, did sometimes frustrate me) until the Powershit "died" at 130,000Km.
            I was quoted $9,000 for Ford to replace 2 failed sensors! ($2,000 parts, what a joke! and $7,000 labour!! even more of a joke)
            $15,000 if I wanted them to replace the Clutch Pack since they had to uninstall it to do the work anyway.
            Vehicle was worth $10,000 at the time. I elected to cut my losses and traded it at a $7,000 loss. Will never buy Ford again and will never look at a Dual Clutch either.

            I called around some other Transmission specialists but they all told me to go with Ford as the Special tool required to remove the tranny was a $5,000 cost that they would need to add onto my bill. They did offer that they could re-imburse me for part of that cost in the future if/when other Mondeo owners also utilised the tool.

      • still many of issues with the wet clutch, also they have plastic parts in them which fail or mechatronic units which fail and both are transmission out jobs so replacing a $30 plastic clip costs you over $1000, the mech unit itself costs the price of a cheap car

        Mondeos would be great cars with a reliable manual

    • Test drove a Mondeo earlier this year when I was looking. They are excellent for hitting your head getting in and out. And I'm not a tall guy (173cm).

  • On a different tune - consider getting an old car with a replaced engine. They still sell at lower prices, but if engine hasn't done so many km it might be worth more than most.

  • +7

    Stay clear of Euro if you need reliability - at 10 grand you will be looking at a fairly old car and they have reputations for a reason. As has been said, Camry/Corolla or an Aurion, change oil and filters regularly, drive it to the moon and back.

    • Largely agree, (even though I have suggested Euro)

      • Yeah, I had a great experience with a 2012 Passat wagon, but 3000km after I sold it the transmission called it quits.

    • Highway driving stresses the car much less than city start/stop driving.
      Considering he plans on driving 50,000km each year, each 1L/100km improvement will save him $1000 on fuel (assuming $2/L).
      Aim to get something with a fuel efficiency of ~5L/100km for highway (so turbo diesel, small engine).

      • +7

        one unforeseen breakdown will nullify the fuel savings, I would not put my faith in a 10 plus year old European TD over the known reliability of Toyota engineering. There is a reason Camry's (despite the haters) seem to go forever.

        • It's God's way of punishing us, kind of like a pre-purgatory.

  • +1

    Corolla.

  • +1

    Mondeo or Passat, diesel.

    • +1

      Mondeo Fuel Consumption Highway 4.9 L/100km

    • -2

      You are joking about a Passat. They are crap.

  • Any of the usual Japanese cars.. they might not be as nice as the euro cars, but the engine will keep going… and going.. and going.

  • +4

    I've got an 09 Corolla sedan that does under 7L/100 on the freeway. Very cheap to run, and surprisingly not as much NVH as I expected. Very comfortable, quieter than it should be, and honestly a pleasurable experience. It's on Bridgestone Ecopias which may help.

    It is a manual without cruise. You should be able to get an auto with cruise under $10,000 very easily.

    I have owned over 50 cars and driven hundreds just to add some weight to the above.

    • 7l per 100km is quite high to be fair

  • +7

    I would buy and old Prius they were way over enginered with incrediable reliablity. When they came out Toyota had to prove the Hybrid technology so went way over the top to build a super car. Some taxis have reported up to 2 million km.

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