The outlet without energy monitoring is also available for $16.14
https://www.amazon.com.au/TP-Link-Tapo-Smart-Wi-Fi-Socket/dp…
CamelCamelCamel.
Note the large notice that tells you not to use upper case letters in your email when registering your TP-Link account or it'll break.
I don't even want to know what you did TP-Link.
Integration seems worse off than what Kasa offered, so sad :(
Personally might consider some alternative plugs that integrate directly into HA without any custom HACS extensions
Have Kasa and they work great. Cancelled my order after seeing this comment, can't believe they went backwards
@MKBHD: The Tapo Controller addon for HACS works flawlessly, it's just as easy to use as the Kasa integration. I have both Kasa and Tapo smart plugs with energy monitoring and they all work perfectly in Home Assistant.
https://github.com/petretiandrea/home-assistant-tapo-p100
@deadpoet: That’s good to hear. What puts me off is the fact that you need internet and authentication to be done on device prior to being able to use it. Rather than it operating as a LAN device.
I’m still bitter about them changing from casa and not being backwards compatible with the old models.
Ha previously didn’t work with these - it might now though…
They recently updated to Tapo app to 3.0 and now finally support both Kasa and Tapo devices. I have a Kasa powerboard that I can control from the Tapo app.
Is this on IOS only? I tried this on my Android but it does not pick up any on my existing Kasa plugs. Even tried factory reset one of the plugs.
Can confirm it works on Android, are you signed up for the Beta version of the app?
@ganjadeals: I believe if you just go to the app on the play store there will be a prompt somewhere about signing up for the beta version. If that's not showing up just google how to sign up for beta apps in the play store, as I can't recall if I had to change a setting in the play store/google account to show beta versions.
Did they deprecate Kasa?
In Australia, yes, it would appear so. In the USA and some other countries they're still releasing some new Kasa products such as new smart bulbs (1000 lumen models, rather than the standard 800 lumen bulbs), but this is not the case in Australia, supply has dried up over the past year or so (including the KP115 energy monitoring smart plug). It looks like Tapo is the only way forward here in Aus.
And there is absolutely no issue with that, the Tapo range is great (speaking as a user of over two dozen Kasa and Tapo devices in Home Assistant).
I can tell you for a fact that both Kasa and Tapo plugs work flawlessly in Home Assistant, there are zero issues. I was apprehensive about Tapo as well since I was a long-time Kasa user, but I made the jump and now have a mixed ecosystem and it all works perfectly. It's awesome.
Thanks Op. Bought one. good price.
I've had about 3-4 of this fail within a year, different outlets.
Likewise, 1 year of usage ( and it was barely cycled off during that time) it started switching itself off and back on rapidly but at random intervals. I pulled it apart which killed it completely (my bad as I had no idea what I was doing.. just curious). Now looking for a different brand as less than 1 year is pretty poor
Must have been bad luck because today one of my KP115 plug does exactly what you described. It first started off by random switching off (and then on) - had my PC plugged into it so it was really annoying. Then i remove it and plug into another outlet, and it start to switch on and off at a rapid interval - it is like switching on and off consequentially as long as the mains power is connected - freak me out a bit.
So I guess the new Tplink plug is not as good as it used to be. I had the original HS110 plug so far no issues.
I will probably not buy another TPlink plug (already bought the tapo one in this thread however).
These keep turning off and on every hour or so random interval I don't have any time on them or anything
Ive got 11 of the P100 ones at home. They work perfectly for me. Alexa will automatically set em up
However the 110 for some reason allows some power to go through and things can go on/off randomly
I strongly recommend the 100s instead.
Never experienced that with the 110's, currently running 6 and all seem fine.
What firmware you running? I haven't used the 110 for a while. Although I remember seeing other members sharing the same issue.
Dammit, just ordered four - didn’t realise the issues with the P110 - wanted the energy monitoring and Kasa features. I can still cancel or take a chance. TP Link has been a bit hit and miss, mostly it’s been good, but I thought the Smart Home Stuff would be a bit more mature now. Except everyone wants you to do cloud subscriptions. Unless you do careful research, and I’m just starting out. I want these for the energy monitoring, no interest in remote on or off at this point. Maybe Meross would be better? EVE just just too expensive.
Yeah unfortunately the P100 doesn't have energy monitoring (also it's literally the same price at Bunnings so what's the point).
Thanks - yeah, well if they fail I guess there is at least one year warranty. I have a Zigbee/BT/Wifi hub which I got on AliExpress - hoping they work with this else it’s $69 for the TP Link H100 hub. I’m trying to not invest in too much until I can get more solid info but it’s and overflow and everyone using HA to get things to talk to each other. Have to watch out for some of the lesser known brands, but then I find out everyone who builds these combo Zigbee/BT/Wifi gateway boxes have the exact same model chip and lots of them are nearly identical which doesn’t surprise me plus you end up hanging them off a USB connector so trying to work out if one will cover my average size 3 bd 2 bath house or two - I know BT is least likely to get distance. The place isn’t that big. But one 5GHz wifi point didn’t work, adding one mesh gave me just about full coverage.
Sorry I digress to complaining to 5G here - TL;DR even if you are close to a tower which I am, indoor performance is shit - 4G/LTE IS THREE times faster up and down.
Pointless 5G inside, slower than 4G, so at home i switch my phone back to 4G/LTE only otherwise battery is shorter life and data is slower. Someone needs to come up up with a sub $300 antenna solution using LMR400 coax with a decent antenna. It’s really disappointing to see Telcos deploying low frequency 5G which is exactly what they did with 4G. Four rooms into my house I’m on 850MHz. 5G at decent speeds inside a house is almost useless. I’m 850m as the crow files from a. Telstra tower with 2 bands of 3G 4 x 4 bands of 4G across a range of frequencies and two bands of 5G in the 3.5GHz range and it’s rubbish inside, even next to the closest Window. I know all the reasons why, just saying 5G home broadband comes with lots of caveats and putting the base station next to the closest window to your 5G tower still doesn’t improve things that much.
Lots of micro cells would have a chance of improving speed but right now, most people are extremely lucky if they get good 5G inside the house, hence my comment about getting a cheap booster or external to internal antenna which is only going to help hotspots.
Sorry I digress. Thanks for info on P100. Let’s see if it’s old hardware and firmware - and for ~$16 a plug I can warranty them or return them all before change of mind.
Just did a speedtest inside on 5G and got 372 Mbps down.
650m away from a low rise rooftop installation in one direction and 1km away from a tower the exact opposite direction
They are doing low frequency 5G in some areas and with some Carrier Aggregation magic you might get better than me. Like I said I’m 850m as the crow flies from my Telstra tower and I’m not likely to be in a heavy 5G used area. Houses and trees in the way of my place and you being topographical higher might get you better coverage. RF can be such a PITA. I’m happy you got decent speeds. I had assumed I would too, but I find the moment I step inside the house and no not a steel frame but colourbond roof, and the spoed is rubbish and I’ve pulled 800Mbos down outside at night about 400-600Mbs during the day outside but indoors nope.
Move 20 metres or have a slight obstruction and things might be completely different.
That’s worth keeping the 5G turned on for if you are getting those speeds down inside the house at ground level also interested what your upload is. But don’t want to hijack this thread. Thanks.
Looks like OOS for the P110? Wanted one to test the power consumption
It's showing $20 for me
It’s showing $20 now did it increase?
Would this be able to handle a power board with 2 pcs and 4 monitors connected to it ? Want to use it for energy tracking.
From what I read a lot of smart switches won’t even switch 10A / 2400Watts
A few I looked at said 1750Watts which isn’t ideal if you are trying to monitor energy of a power board that will carry a 10Amp / 2400 Watt load.
In those cases I’ve seen plug in in power monitors which don’t really offer much beyond a display - there is one on AliExpress I want to try though, but if why can’t the electronics switch 10A?
That sort of stuff shouldn’t be buried in the fine print but alas it is and lots of other things I found reading too many forums and getting brain overload.
I am hoping these have electronic safety switches that won’t allow current to get too close to the limit. I wonder if they have kept a bit of reserve power to power the smarts inside these plugs, which is why the ones that are open and up front about them only supplying 1750 Watts - 650 Watts is a huge amount of power for a RF TX and some electronic switching, but I’m not an electrical engineer. So one else might offer a better answer.
But at $17 I was surprised they lasted this long.
Unless people like me who only bought them three hours ago didn’t know the somewhat questionable nature of the P110.
Hope that helps.
Forget what I was saying about Smart Switches, I was obviously getting the TP Link P110 confused with another brand.
It handles 10A 240 Volts just fine. I checked out a box of one I have here but didn’t open.
However I did find that there was a smart switch that topped out at 1750 Watts which I thought was really odd.
However as the deal had run out of stock at the time it’s a moot point. I’m hoping that TPLink are keeping their firmware up to date with their electronics not that I expect they need that much.
The energy monitor aspect could be cause of random switch offs if you haven’t programmed it. However I suspect it would be default off.
I reserve my right to judge these I have two here and four coming and they have two year warranties.
I also bought a TP H100 Hub in case I get stuck in a semi closed infrastructure.
There is a crap load of Tuya Compliant Smart Home Products which will work with “Smart Life” or the older but almost identical. Tuya Life. Bother available for Android and iOS.
However, unless something has HomeKit on it, it’s not going to work with the Apple Smart Home Eco system and you need either a IPod Mini nest version or Apple TV 4K as the Hub. Some manufacturers are supporting HomeKit, but it’s the LEAST supported and Most Expensive unless you wanna set yourself up with lots of gear which was either Built to Support the Apple iOS Ecosystem- there are a few that have their own apps, but most Home Automation heads are using an Opensource piece of software call Home Assistant and there are tens if not hundreds of thousands using it.
This is the bridge between Z-Wave, Zigbee, Bluetooth and Wifi devices made by different manufacturers and opens a world of customisation. Those cheap gateways nearly all have the TYZB1 and they can be Meshed, there is a model or two with Ethernet and you might build yourself a cheap RPI running HA and either plug in via USB-C or Ethernet into one of the gateways, and once it’s on your home Wifi Network - well there is a device for everything but HA is an excellent bridge software with lots of people contributing as there are so many Tuya compliant products on the market and then a bunch of closed systems, usually from brand name companies which often requires a hub which isn’t $16 plus $1 shipping from AliExpress and btw, the pictures might be different but you may end up with a generic white or black of you go looking and you can pay anything from $15 to $50 - some with brand names don’t mean much. The $25 one on Amazon is probably just a generic Zigbee/BT/Wifi gateway needing to be powered by USB-C - the box says 5V 1A so you can run it on a 15 year old PC which the power bill alone from running an old PSU would be killing you - maybe a non Heymix Power adapter - consider if you want to power anything else via USB-C that might be close by.
If they show that Tuya logo they should talk to either of those two apps and before you jump into a huge HA setup, you’ll need to register a phone number, a username and password.
Just a tip, don’t buy any Zigbee device with first having a Zigbee gateway, you’ll have a bit of an issue talking to it - lol.
Gatwate sets up as the Master device and the then the gateway will talk to whatever device your gateway is set up for
These Gateway devices are all based on the same chip: TYZB1 and there’s a slightly better one with built in IR but I couldn’t get clear specs from AliExpress
Most of these are around ~ AU$16.87 - new Aluecpress customers could even get them at Welcome prices as cheap as $AUD3. I’ll look at the Ethernet connected boxes to see whether I should keep one Gateway connected but really, your wifi isn’t likely to run out. Distances on BT and Zigbee devices are exaggerated but I think these things build a mesh or you can pretty easily.
I’m still new to this stuff and I’m only repeating what I’m reading.
For anyone bored of this I’m going to stop now.
If AliExpress has a 220/230V approved gateway or device and it doesn’t ship with an AU CORD, high chance it’s probably an unearthed figure 8 aka AU Mains to IEC 7 - buy the cable somewhere semi reputable as you don’t want less than 1mm copper inside the cable. You shouldn’t pay more than $10 for one, a bit more from Jaycar, though quality might be higher - Amazon have them and eBay will give you a plethora of places - or you can buy adapter plugs from say EU to AU. The quality of those vary radically and sometimes don’t have the highest fit - I used to get US ones but then found pins weren’t touching on some adapters, so I changed to EU as their round pins are likely to have better tolerances.
I’m sure everyone here has given up on this by now.
One more thing in another post about a proper Power Tester I want to get myself and yes they do actually make AU sockets, just keep looking.
So many resellers have to be fronts for larger manufacturers. I’ve seen too many same names come up, with six different prices but the retailer is the same.
One tiny bit more advice about AliExpress. Their web shop actually recommend you use PayPal pay on delivery and it’s likely to be in AUD anyway. Not all sellers will go for that. But a card via PayPal still overs you some degree of privacy and I have been flooded by spam every time I buy from them.
and if you never bought AliExpress before, where have you been……. A new email will get you welcome prices, but they may eventually start seeing 10 email addresses and same delivery address and make registering harder.
2 PCs and 4 monitors - depending on the PSUs in the PCs that’s where you’ll eat most of your power. If you are running 2 x 500W PSU that are under decent load you are already at 4Amps.
LED screens don’t usually draw a lot of current depending on the size. Bigger screens start to eat it a bit.
If you have never popped your overload on your power board, you aren’t pulling more than 2400 Watts. Like I said, it does depend how much sustained load these PCs are under.
I want to measure similar things but have discovered you want decent monitoring of the voltage and current you have to spend more than $17 on a Home automation smart switch.
do these work with apple home kit?
Not Apple HomeKit Approved afaik - You can make them work by setting up Home Assistant and getting an extra hub,, it requires a fair amount of messing around but no, I don’t think they do - but the price went back to normal.
Try Meross or Eve of out of the box Apple HomeKit supports.
Apologies to Mod - was not trying to post affiliate links - just links to some products that might help out fellow users. I should have thought about it more. Apologies again.
They're back at $18 on Amazon FYI but u can get them cheaper at JBHIFI if u buy a pack of 2 at $37 + 10% off ($16.65 each) using CLICKOCT23 (and even cheaper if paying with GC) but this finishes tonight?
![[Prime] TP-Link Tapo Mini Smart Wi-Fi Socket w/ Energy Monitoring (Tapo P110) $17 Delivered @ Amazon AU](https://files.ozbargain.com.au/n/01/804801.jpg?h=c6606230)
I seem to recall this being referenced in the deal for the Meross.
Does anyone know if it can work with HA?