This was posted 1 year 5 months 6 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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Trek Marlin 5 Gen 2 Mountain Bike $649.99 (Was $899.99) Delivered @ Trek

760

Good price for this bike. I have the light blue in L size. Lifetime warranty.

Note that this is more of a general purpose MTB. The 2x drivetrain is decent for commuting and path riding, but it also goes fine on trails and light XC.

Before anyone says the Fluid Daytona bikes are better value, a Trek frame is far better than a Fluid frame and will hold it's value far better. Fluid bikes are generally poor build quality. Also lifetime warranty on the Trek frame.

Marlin 6 Gen 2 is also on sale for $799.99 (was $949.99) if you prefer/want a 1x drive train:
https://www.trekbikes.com/au/en_AU/bikes/mountain-bikes/cros…

Marlin 7 Gen 2 is also on sale for $999.99 (was $1299.99) if you want a RockShox fork:
https://www.trekbikes.com/au/en_AU/bikes/mountain-bikes/cros…

Edit: these models are the same prices at my local trek dealer too.

Trek have a bunch of other bike at significant discounts at the moment including hard tail and dual suspension MTBs, road bikes etc. https://www.trekbikes.com/au/en_AU/bikes/c/B100/?pageSize=72…

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  • +1

    Lifetime warranty - on frame only

    • +11

      To be fair, the frame is the only part of the bike that Trek is responsible for making. Though I'm pretty sure that's contracted out to a Taiwanese of Chinese OEM as well.

      This is a totally standard warranty situation on high end bikes as well.

      • +1

        op stated it twice and theres a lot of cyclng noobs here so its worth mentioning…no point raising expectations!

      • -2

        Most places that sell stuff don't make the stuff that they sell directly. Why shouldn't Trek be responsible for what they choose to sell (as they are under the ACL regardless)?

        • +1

          No one is suggesting that they aren't responsible. But offering a lifetime warranty on components they don't manufacture or have any input in, is a very different issue.

          • +2

            @wombat81: Yes, for exactly this [so obvious that it shouldn't need stating] reason.

            What company in their right mind is going to offer lifetime warranties on parts that are either disposable (such as chains), or exposed to constant abuse (derailleurs, brakes, cable housing, saddles, well, most parts of a bike). Even the OEMs of the parts don't offer lifetime warranties.

            On the other hand, a simple double triangle frame will in all probability last practically forever, so long that it'll go non-standard with new parts before it breaks.

        • +1

          If your wheels, saddle, handlebars were broken right out of the shop, I'm sure the Trek dealer would replace it outright for you. If the wheelhubs had any problem within the first couple of weeks, they would do that too.

          However, there is no reason why they would offer a lifetime warranty for components that are exposed to wear and tear. Like someone else said, chains, cogs, wheels, tyres, shifter cables all come under a lot of stress and are expected to wear out at some point.

          • @jatyap: Couple of weeks? Are you even remotely familiar with the ACL? Trek would be directly responsible for replacing broken parts for at least several years, probably longer depending on what price bracket the bike is. It is totally irrelevant that they didn't personally hand craft every item on the bike.

            • @caitsith01: I think you're confusing "lifetime". Obviously ACL says that manufacturers are liable to faults during the reasonable life of an item. Trek's warranty on it's frame is for the original owners "lifetime" which is a very different thing.

              Obviously ACL applies to the entire bike. Trek's additional lifetime warranty applies to frame sets (frame and rigid fork), main frame and full suspension swing arms for the lifetime of the original owner.

              • @wombat81: No, I'm not, I was replying to the proposition that Trek would replace things "right out of the shop" or "within the first couple of weeks".

    • Also "lifetime" is subjective, while it may sound like a long time, but it is usually the expected lifespan of a product. It is not the owner's lifetime.

      • Sometimes the company goes bust too. No more warranty then.

      • +1

        It literally is the lifetime of the original owner. Trek states it very clearly.

        Warranty
        Frame sets (frame and rigid fork), main frame and full suspension swing arms for the lifetime of the original owner

        https://www.trekbikes.com/au/en_AU/warranty_policy/

    • +1

      Lifetime warranty - on frame only - For the original owner. I was looking at a second hand trek until I read that the warranty only applies to the person who buys it new, it's not transferable.

      • Are there other brands that offer this?

        • I'm not sure. I was considering buying a second hand trek for a few hundred less than a new but when I read Trek's warranty process I decided the new one with the frame warranty was worth it to me. It would've been about a 15% discount.

        • +1

          Specialised warranties are transferable

  • +3

    great price for a good entry level hardtail!

  • +4

    Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the Fluid Daytona/Daytona+ seems to be far better value ($499/$599) and frame (more modern).

    From what I can tell, the Trek frame is ancient, so you'll have a hard time upgrading it if that is your intention.
    *1-1/8 Straight steerer
    *QR Axles
    *2x8 Speed

    I can't find the spec sheet for Fluid Daytona, but from what I can guess from Anaconda's webpage, it's:
    *Far cheaper then the Trek Marlin 5 Gen 2
    *1x12 Speed Deore Groupset
    *Looks like a tapered steerer

    • +5

      the trek has a really big trek decal though….theres that?

      seriously though….the fluid looks a lot better on paper specs wise…a LOT better

    • +2

      The build quality of the fluid bikes are poor. While they have a nice drive train, the rest of the bike won't last long. Resale is also abysmal.

      If you call $50 "far cheaper". The cost is $499/$599 and finding local stock isn't easy so you're also paying a significant amount for delivery.

      Upgrading the trek is fairly straight forward. Shimano and SRAM both offer compatible 1x drive trains. But you wouldn't do it. It would be more than the cost of the bike.

      Edit: the other thing to keep in mind is that after sales service from trek is light years ahead of Anaconda.

      • Out of curiosity, what do you mean by "won't last long"?

        I'd agree some component brands on the trek are more well known, but they are all still budget end consumables and would probably fail/wearout in similar time frames.

        The upgrading part is the problem.
        1x8 conversion is easily done (and I believe it shouldnt be difficult to go to 1x11)
        But if your fork or wheel fails, upgrading is difficult and you'll likely be going through second hand parts as the industry moves away from QR skewers and straight 1-1/8 steerers.

        • +4

          From my experience the general build quality of Fluid bikes is poor. Things start to rust quickly, things bend easily, things become loose quickly, minor incidents result in significant damage etc. I've found that you don't run into those types of issues with Trek. Certainly nowhere near as much, anyway.

          How many 5-10 year old Fluid bikes do you see for sale 2nd hand and in good condition? Compare that to the amount of 5-10 year old Trek bikes you see for sale that are still in good condition. I think that speaks for itself.

          Again, it wouldn't make sense to be doing significant upgrades to this Trek bike as it would be too expensive. You'd sell it (for a decent 2nd hand price) and upgrade to a model with the components you want.

          Something like the wheels are far less likely to fail on a trek bike because they're manufactured by a reputable brand (Bontrager) that has a reputation for decent quality. The fluid bike comes with no-name wheels.

        • +1

          For groupset, the 8 speed actually lasts a lot longer than the 12 speed. 12 speed is more sensitive to cable stretch and the 8 speed chain and casette will last about twice as long as the 12 speed.

          As for fork upgrades, not really a consideration given any decent fork is going to cost you about what the bike costs. Plenty of straight steerer forks like manitou for aroudn the $400 range in straight steerer. Most tapered forks will be thru axle and that forces you to upgrade the wheels too which is an easy $300 odd at least. So you are spending $700 on a $400+ bike.

          For wheels, surprisingly it's just as easy to get qr wheels as thru axle. The difference being that I doubt the fluid has thru axles front AND back. So that means you are looking for a mismatch wheelset which makes it a lot harder.

          Last, part of buying the bike is the service. Generally trek retailer provide one free service, which will tihgten up the loose shifting cables, from an experienced mec. Anaconda, I can't say I trust their bike mecs - seems to be luck of the draw.

  • is this better than jamis durango A1? currently below $600 inc delivery

  • +2

    Anyone have an opinion on the electric bikes on sale?

    https://www.trekbikes.com/au/en_AU/bikes/hybrid-bikes/electr…
    https://www.trekbikes.com/au/en_AU/bikes/hybrid-bikes/electr…

    Obviously I could buy this hardtail for $649 and then put together some components off Aliexpress but I think I'd rather have someone else build it for me.

    • +1

      i bought a trek verve2 lowstep on sale and converted that to an e-bike for my wife. bafang mid-drive and 20ah rack battery.. cheaper and better than a pre-made e-bike

      • Any pics you can share?

      • Looks great! Wouldn't pick it for a conversion.

        Out of curiosity what was the sale price on the Verve?

        Was it the BBSHD kit?

        • +1

          $849 for the 2022 verve 2. The 2022 verve 1 was $699, but the verve 2 had hydraulic discs and suspension seatpost, so was worth the extra. I upgraded the 160mm rotors to 203mm. It is a 48v 750W BBS02.

          • @FarQ: Thanks mate, appreciate the info. I'm looking to build soon so this is very helpful.

            • +1

              @nickeveli: This is a good site for Bafang controller config
              https://edrivenet.com/bafang-programming/
              I wouldn’t bother with the hydraulic brake sensors as I couldnt get them mounted properly as the levers weren’t really flat and the magnet operation was hit and miss. Get the gear sensor though… good luck with the build.

          • @FarQ: How much does it cost to convert? Would a bike like this trek be good to convert.

            • @mlin7728: Motor kit and 20ah rack battery was about $1320… going smaller battery will lower costs. Any bike can be converted, although they reckon not on carbon bikes.

              • @FarQ: 750w. What speeds can you get up to?

                • @mlin7728: Tested it on my giant seek2 commuter bike. Got about 60kmh on flat. The heavier the bike and rider the less top speed. Also your gearing will affect top speed as well

                  • @FarQ: Wow that's fast

                  • @FarQ: Did you use a particular website or YouTube to guide you?

                    • @mlin7728: Plenty of youtube guides for bafang install

              • @FarQ: At this price though, would it be better off to go with a low step Merida e300 ($23xx) ? which is fitted with shimano motor/battery (would be somewhat better than a bafang i reckon) and no efforts required.

                https://www.99bikes.com.au/merida21-espresso-300-se-eq-504wh…

                • @OzHan: Sure if you’re not mech minded. But the bafang is 750w and mine has a 48v 960Wh battery. I could build it cheaper with a bafang 250w motor and 36v 540Wh battery.

                  • @FarQ: I agree, however If you want to stay road legal and a bike with longer lasting battery/motor and arguably better resale value too I'd say the Merida might be a better choice for those who are not as mech minded.

  • I only know a bit about bikes but Trek branded mountain bike at this price def seems like a deal?

  • 130kg can ride this bike?

    • most trek bikes have a 136kg max weight limit (that includes the weight of the bike)

    • FarQ is correct. From the specs in the link:

      This bike has a maximum total weight limit (combined weight of bicycle, rider and cargo) of 136 kg (300 lb).

      I'd suggest it'll probably be ok for a 130kg person, though. You'd think they'd have a safety factor that can handle a bit more than their stated maximum.

  • I have the light blue in L size

    Great colour, and pretty cheap for a decent Trek. I just sold my Roscoe and waiting on a good deal for an e-MTB

    Also relatively light at under 14kg

    • -1

      decent = altus?
      relatively light = under 14kg?

      • I don't know what altus is. My roscoe was over 15kg

        • -1

          ….lol. whats a 'roscoe'?

      • Eh… I do love putting XT on everything but as far as Shimano goes, everything between Tourney and Deore could be considered "decent" IMO. Altus will last forever and keep working well the whole time.

        • +1

          Converted my 2012 Giant Seek2 to an e-bike. 9spd XT running gear, carbon bar and XT 4 piston brakes with 203mm rotors. Stops pretty quick now…

  • +2

    Believe it or not I cycled across Europe in the late 1990s on a basic Trek mountain bike like this, adding bar-ends for more hand positions, and pannier racks front and back. I've since owned a Trek 520 touring bike and have a lot of respect for the brand (although I now ride another brand's road bike and an indoor Wahoo Kickr Bike). It's a "can't go wrong here" kind of decision.

    • +1

      How was riding a mountain bike on normal roads? Would you recommend this bike for normal road use?

      I just started cycling to work and found my old cheapo mountain bike not fast enough and I seem to need to push the pedal more than other cyclists I saw on the road. I was thinking I may need a road bike with thin wheels

      • +4

        just change your tyres from mtb to a commuter tyre suitable for your wheel size first…. a lot cheaper than buying a new bike!
        or youre in the wrong gear!

        • +1

          great idea that I haven’t thought of. I’ll give that a try

          I can rule out the gear part. I changed the gears for max speed that I am comfortable pushing (i.e. not too “heavy” on the pedal if you know what I mean). The roads where I am aren’t very flat so I do have to change gears every now and then

        • Good question @bheart - I did change the tyres too. Don't keep mountain bike tyres if you're touring on normal roads. I used some narrower Continental semislick tyres that had smooth in the middle but still with a bit of grip on the outside. A bit like today's Continental "Ride Tour" tyres (google them).

      • +3

        I'd recommend testing a road bike in conditions that you ride in before buying one.

        Even though they are fast it's not for everyone (myself included).

        I still prefer riding my hardtail Trek MTB with slick tyres for short work commutes and recreational riding as I tend to like jumping off kerbs for the hell of it.

        • Haha so true. I used to have a cool looking with front & mid suspension for those jumps back in the uni days

        • The trend in road bikes right now is for wider tyre clearance on new bikes (even if the stock tyres are narrow) because pro riders are using wider tyres. Lots of gravel bikes around too, even some with a little suspension, because people are wanting to go faster off-road.

  • +2

    "decent for commuting and path riding". No……

    If you are going to commute, ride on bike paths, light gravel, don't get this bike. It's a Hard-tail MTB, it's overbuilt for this. You are carrying frame weight, suspension and oversized tyres that you don't need in those situations. An actual commuter bike would be better.

    If you want to dip your toe in actual MTB'ing, and want to stick with TREK consider these:

    https://www.trekbikes.com/au/en_AU/bikes/mountain-bikes/cros…
    https://www.trekbikes.com/au/en_AU/bikes/mountain-bikes/cros…

    Remember, you get what you pay for. Cheap bikes have cheap group sets & cheap wheal-sets that wear out quickly and are expensive to replace.

    • +4

      Obviously a specialist commuter would be better for commuting and a more expensive mountain bike would be better for mountain biking. That's not rocket surgery.

      But this bike is, definitely, a decent all rounder.

      • I think the Marlin 6 gen2 (which I didn't notice you'd also linked to) for the extra 150 is nice. Getting something with Deore 1X10 under 1k is good value.

    • While I generally agree with you, if anything gives you trouble on this bike it won't be the groupset, and those parts are at least very cheap to replace.

  • Buy a second hand, near new bike and save yourself heaps and get a better bike.

    If you end up enjoying mountain biking you will be wanting to upgrade this bike real quick. Its probably good for young teens.

    • which brand is recommended at around $600 second hand? i see a lot on fb but theyre asking $3k plus.

      • Where are you located?

      • I think in budget bikes they put in poor forks. In Sydney (Facebook marketplace) I can see a Merida Big Trail 400 for $850 certainly a good enough bike till you are ready to go full suspension.

        I made a mistake of buying a brand new budget bike and now if I want to upgrade it, it is not economical had I spent a bit more and gotten a bike with better parts.

        Budget bike is good enough to get a sample if you like mountain biking, but you will want something better quick if you love it.

    • If you can find the right bike, this is always a good option. From experience it can be hard to find what you want at a reasonable price, though, especially away from metro areas.

  • +7

    EOFY20WEB code for extra $20 off.

  • -1

    I would rate this bike Treks alternative to Giant talon 2 but with integrated Bontrager cancer.
    Minus the Deore parts on talon 2.

    It will be a great bike to get you to the local train station or around the block but the Altus will ensure you won't hit a trail along with the 2 pot tektro brakes and 100mm fork.

    You will then notice in the upper end Trek just copies Specialized. Roscoe 8 and 9 vs chisel vs Fuse 29. You'll just pay an extra $1000 because it's Trek. They're the apple of bikes.

    • Haha, you're so negative about everything except your beloved talon. Love it.

      • -2

        Haha don't know if you're worse than the Bontrager cancer. Love it

        • +1

          What does that even mean?

          • -1

            @wombat81: Well you clearly know nothing about bikes and you jump on to neg all the comments which you clearly disagree with.

            If you knew anything and could read a spec chart, knew parts and read geometry you'd know this is a giant talon 2 on treks land.

            You'd also know the fuse 29 / Roscoe 9 are identical bikes and trek made the Roscoe 9 because Specialized sold THOUSANDS of them! They just charge $1000 more.

            • @[Deactivated]: Dude, who cares? Why are you getting so upset because some bike brand makes a bike that's similar to your favourite bike?

              You're carrying on like you're 12. If you genuinely think this is a bad deal, down vote it. No one cares about which brand copied which other brand and now they're charging too much. It has nothing to do with this deal.

              • @wombat81: All I'm saying is you have no idea and youve been a dick for 4 threads. That's all. I think that's all this is about.

                • @[Deactivated]: Ahh I see. You're happy to jump on my posts and complain about the deals for no other reason except because they aren't your favourite brands. But as soon as I challenge you, I'm the dick.

                  You seem to have some extreme bias towards your favourite brands, for some reason, and against others. But at the end of the day it's either a decent deal or it isn't. If you honestly don't think it's a decent deal, down vote it. But spare us all the carry-on about how trek ripped off every other brand and it made you sad.

                  If a Trek or a Marin or a Polygon is not for you, you are more than welcome skip the thread. If you genuinely think they are bad deals, down vote them. But it seems like you believe that your opinion about irrelevant things is so important that you just have to comment.

    • What do you mean "integrated Bontrager cancer"?

      Every major bike manufacturer has a bike that's the equivalent of any other in specific categories. Yes, this is the equivalent of a Talon, but Trek is more well known for quality than for bang-for-buck than Giant is, which is why Trek and Specialized bikes are generally more expensive than their Giant/Merida equivalents.

      What do you have against Trek, anyway?

  • +1

    Polygon bikes shits on this!

    • -1

      …but the trek has bigger decals?? and the resale values??! and lifetime guarantee!??!! …..and its a trek!!!!

      • +5 leg horsepower for decals. Reduces lactic acid build up.

      • Sitting here trying to think of mountain bike brands that don't have big decals…..

    • -1

      At this tier, I have to agree… Once you get into the more advanced dual suspensions, though, Trek has put a lot more research and refinement into their frames and componentry.

      I'd say one of the top features I like are the active braking pivots on the rear of their dual suspension bikes.

  • If you have a big ego, buy this. If not don't. Trek is a mainstream bike brand and sponsors pro riders. You're paying for the brand name like Nike. Definitely better value new bikes on the market. But a true ozbargainer will buy a good used MTB already depreciated in value and not have to worry about it being scratched up.

    • +1

      Second hand is definitely the go. Can be hard to find stuff outside of metro areas, though.

      No idea about the ego comment, though. If it's a decent bike at a decent price, what's the issue?

      • Trek is dominating at the e-mtb scene. Expect to pay $15,000 on an e-mtb. That's where the ego is.
        Even the trek stores have a disgusting feel to them that it's insanely expensive! Walk into one and check price tags. Have under $6000 and you'll feel poor and out of place.

        At my local trek store if you tallied up all the bikes and price tags it would be around $20,000,000 worth of bikes. The prices asked, no bike is ever worth it imo.

        • I was in my local trek store today and, of the mountain bikes, the vast majority were under $4k. The bulk of them were Marlins of various types for the same prices listed here.

          Presumably individual stores carry stock to suit their cleintel or area.

          • @wombat81: My store doesn't have any Marlins and all Trek. I took my bike in there once just to see if they had a part which might fit, Charged $45 for a diagnostic fee with no work done, was in there 15 mins.. just a general inspection fee! I questioned it and he's like yeah we have to charge that.

            I would hate to know the fee to actually get a part installed. I'd expect $300 minimum. But then again, if you walked in with a $12,000 e-mtb maybe you'd be happy with that..

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