Hyundai Tucson New Car Price Negotiation

nsavi on 24/03/2023 - 09:58
Last edited 24/03/2023 - 10:07 by 1 other user

I have considered buying Hyundai Tucson Highlander 2.0 Petrol(not NLine) - Cream White and was quoted $51,490.

I paid a $500 deposit just to reserve a car in my name (that was ordered and later cancelled by another customer). I think it hasn't gone into production but the salesperson thinks I might get it in 3-6 months. I can still get a full refund of my deposit if I change my mind and cancel.

1] Is this a good price to pay for it? They offered free door mats and full fuel tank which I know is not a great deal.
I appreciate any tips, advice to further negotiate this. I checked other dealers online and the price is pretty much the same (+/-$200)

There was another Highlander 1.6 Petrol - Silver due for delivery in next couple of weeks but I didn't wanted to pay for the extra $4k for the 1.6 Petrol.

2] Is the extra $4000 for the 1.6 worth it? It's just gonna be a family car driven mostly in Victorian suburbs and few long road trips (no towing or offroading).

Automotive Car Hyundai Motors SUV

Comments

  • Mechz on 24/03/2023 - 10:06
    +4

    With free door mats you're 100% getting more than anyone else would in this market.

  • djkelly69 on 24/03/2023 - 10:07
    +14

    If you have already paid a deposit, I think the time for negotiating has passed.

  • pegaxs on 24/03/2023 - 10:08
    +4

    1: A bit late to shut that gate after the horse has bolted. If you paid a deposit, you would be locked in at that price (or that price plus any price rise). If you want to renegotiate the deal, you will have to cancel this order and you would therefore go back to the end of the queue.

    1a: And on new cars, there isnt a lot of margin anyway, so most dealers will be fairly close in price. You might save $200~$500, but you might have to go further out of your way to buy it and you may end up going to the back of the queue and be 6~12 months of waiting, all for the sake of saving $200.

    2: No, not really. Pocket the $4k. There is no real benefit over spending $4k more to use a smaller amount of fuel. $4k will buy a lot of fuel before the ROI pay off would kick in.

    • nsavi on 24/03/2023 - 10:25
      +1

      Thank you so much.

      • pegaxs on 24/03/2023 - 10:49
        +3

        For $50k and the type of driving you do, you haven’t considered an EV? If you are predominantly doing short trips, school runs and shopping, an EV might be an even better solution and there are a few in that price bracket now. Even seen a few very low km Tesla (*chokes back vomit*) 2020 Model 3 cars for around this price.

        • Existenz on 24/03/2023 - 11:01
          -4

          Keeping in mind most houses would need some infrastructure upgrades, either 3-phase, install a charger, solar or even a battery. There's definitely an added cost for convenient charging (not having to wait 12+ hours to charge the car through a regular power point)

          • pegaxs on 24/03/2023 - 12:47
            +8

            @Existenz:

            most houses would need some infrastructure upgrades

            Incorrect. Most houses require no upgrades, as charging equipment for low usage runs off a standard 10a outlet. A 10a charger will give you about 1.7 to 2kW charging rate. It gets plugged in when the car gets home and unplugged the next morning. 10 hours charging will equal about 20kWh of capacity, or enough for an average EV to go about 150km. Most average users do about 30~40km/day. This amount would easily be charged overnight while you are sleeping from a 10a outlet.

            either 3-phase, install a charger, solar or even a battery.

            Again, incorrect. 3-phase is not a requirement for home charging, hell my EV doesn't even support 3 phase charging. Solar and batteries are not a requirement to have an EV or for it to be charged at home. (Side note, the car IS the battery if you have solar already…)

            There's definitely an added cost for convenient charging

            Added cost for "convinience"??? Have you priced up a petrol storage tank, petrol bowser and getting it all wired in for your home? Not to mention the safety implications on your insurance for having a petrol storage tank on your property, let alone having your fuel delivered by a tanker every few weeks.

            There is no added cost for about 90% of people who use their EV on a daily basis. They do less km per day than what a 10a charger would keep up with.

            not having to wait 12+ hours to charge the car through a regular power point

            This is not a thing. You dont treat an EV the same as a petrol car. People need to get over this idea that a car needs to be filled and then run back down to empty before it is refilled again. You treat an EV the same as a mobile phone.

            The best part of an EV is the fact that you can charge it every day. You get home, plug it in and walk away. Unplug it the next morning and it is full.

            • lordriffington on 24/03/2023 - 16:37
              +4

              @pegaxs: Exactly right. Those people who want a faster charge at home or who need to be making long trips every day might find it necessary to have a charger installed, but all most people need is a power point.

              Even when you do need to charge it faster than that, a lot of public chargers are installed in convenient places. I've been running my car for the past month solely by charging it at the shops (when I'd be going there anyway.) In the 30 minutes I'm usually there while I run to Coles or Woolies, the car has charged enough that I probably won't even need to charge it again for the rest of the week. That particular charger is free, so I haven't paid a cent to run my car in about a month.

  • JDMcarfan on 24/03/2023 - 10:14
    +3

    Theta II (the 2.0L engine) becoming a big problem in the states at the moment (defective block) for Hyundai/Kia made over the last decade (same engine here). Google it.
    I'm sure its been rectified for new models here but why risk it, and also why buy a car (specifically the 2.0) that has had engine issues with its current design.
    Mate works at KIA in Sydney and stated there's nearly a 1000 new engines sitting in warehouses for warranty claims for cars coming in. The issue is quote common across the 2.0L Kia/Hyundai products at the 150k km mark (near the end of the warranty period). Thankfully KIA have been quite diligent and have addressed the issues immediately with customers but have largely kept it under wraps and out of the public eye (no public recall of yet). No comment on Hyundai's approach esp with a shorter 5 year warranty, but would hope they would act faithfully and repair on goodwill to maintain brand rep.

    Buy the 1.6l petrol or if your use case is correct (highway driving) the diesel. Both solid motors with plenty of shove, unlike the asthmatic 2.0L (have driven a few).

    • JimB on 24/03/2023 - 10:20

      Does the Theta II problems also include the Diesels as used in the Hyundai Tucson/Kia Sportage?

      • Existenz on 24/03/2023 - 10:28
        +2

        No, the diesel is a good engine. It's just the N/A petrol that's affected by these issues.

      • JDMcarfan on 24/03/2023 - 10:29
        +3

        No solely the 2.0 petrol motors (sorry didn't clarify that). The 2.0 diesels are completely different architecture.
        If considering the diesel, just make sure your driving is compatible with owning a car with a DPF (i.e. commutes can't be short trips, and you should include longer trips to burn off soot accumulation). In saying that, haven't really heard of issues with the 2.0 or 2.2 diesels from Hyundai/Kia and they're in all sorts of cars used by families for school drop-offs and the like so think they've sorted their DPF systems very well.

        • JimB on 24/03/2023 - 10:42

          Thanks.

          Will try to give it a long distance run on a regular basis. Well that is if we ever get the car. Waiting 11 months so far with no ETA.

          You're right though, if they suffered common DPF issues (like the Toyotas) we would have heard all about it because most of them are used by families for school drop-offs and the like.

          I wonder if the i30N engine is reliable overall.

          • Existenz on 24/03/2023 - 11:19

            @JimB: The i30N engine is completely different from the N/A (non aspirated) 2.0L engine. The N motor requires stronger internals to cope with higher power and torque demands, plus has a turbo (aspirated).

            • tz001 on 25/03/2023 - 08:12
              +3

              @Existenz: All ICE engines are aspirated. NA means Naturally Aspirated. Then there is forced induction using a turbocharger or supercharger.

    • nsavi on 24/03/2023 - 10:33

      Thank you for the advice. Its a newer model 2023 but never know if this issue if it exists is now fixed.

      Diesel might be too much as I dont drive that much.
      Its mostly school drop offs/shopping trips and few occasional road trips in an year.

  • Existenz on 24/03/2023 - 10:24
    +1

    Agree with JDMcarfan above. The base 2.0L is not a great engine, either from a reliability or performance point of view. You'd be much better off with the diesel if you're doing lots of mileage or the 1.6T for a more sporty feel.

    Go drive a Tucson with the 1.6T for yourself and make up your mind. We had a Kona 1.6T and loved driving it a lot. It made the choice for our Tucson much easier, even at a $4000 permium! Plus you can get it sooner it seems…

    • nsavi on 24/03/2023 - 10:30

      I drove both of them yesterday.Yes there is definitely a noticeable pick up(sporty feel like you said)in the 1.6.

      I might do at the max 15k in a year so diesel is probably too much.

      Its for the $4k and the Silver color I am hesitating.

      • Existenz on 24/03/2023 - 10:41
        +1

        We personally thought the $k premium was worth it. The driving experience alone was more enjoyable with the 1.6T. However that's obviously different for everyone.

        Also if your build hasn't gone into production yet I highly doubt you'll get it in 3-6 months. There are about 60k cars waiting in the Australian ports for quarantine and only a small amount going through the process every day. Anything you can get your hands on quickly is a win in an uncertain time.

    • JimB on 24/03/2023 - 10:48

      I've read reports of the dual clutch wasn't a good transmission that came with the Kia/Hyundai 1.6T.

      Did you have that problem?

      I'm not against DCT, I have one in my hot hatch, but it wouldn't be my first choice for a family SUV.

      Good torque converter autos have 99% of the performance and are much smoother than DCTs these day.

      • Existenz on 24/03/2023 - 10:59
        +1

        No issues with our DCT, in either the Kona or Tucson. I have a feeling most people need to 'learn' how to drive with a DCT and not expect it to be the same as a torque converter.

        A good ZF box will definitely be close to a DCT, but they won't be in a Tucson… I've got an RS3 myself, the shift speed is incredible vs a torque converter, however slightly jarring from a standstill depending on how well you know the car.

      • JDMcarfan on 24/03/2023 - 11:20

        Haven't heard the same for Hyundai/Kia DCT's unlike VW and Ford.
        Hyundai/Kia universally use Wet-clutch systems unlike VW who use dry and wet depending on performance applications. Wet clutches are way more durable as they lubricate the clutch plates hence allowing for proper thermal management, which therefore allows for longevity.
        Makes no difference between a hatch or SUV for using a DCT, only thing to note is not to avoid labouring the transmission which in a DCT is:
        - Repeated crawling in traffic (instead stay still and then move in one bigger movement)
        - Using the throttle to hold position when on an incline (instead stay on the brake until you move)
        - Steep driveways (instead move house or park on street, just kidding!)
        - Towing. Its fine to tow occasionally but be aware that these aren't the most ideal transmissions to do so.
        Tip/Bunnings runs are absolutely no issue, but I wouldn't tow a boat.

      • nsavi on 09/04/2023 - 13:43

        Its like greek to me:)
        Is there a better way to understand the DCT language. I mean what is it and how can a layman like me notice the difference?

        • JimB on 09/04/2023 - 21:08

          DCT is more like a manual with a clutch than regular automatic.

          So less smooth.

          Unlike a normal auto, you shouldn’t let it creep forward, particularly uphill.

          Difficult to explain, just test drive one for yourself.

  • dkwon10 on 24/03/2023 - 10:40

    recently my parents bought a 2018 tucson 2.0 I was surprised how well it drives.. (I drive a 16 elantra sr turbo) not sure about the long term reliability tho

  • MantistobogganMD on 24/03/2023 - 10:40

    Tell them you work in healthcare, you will get a fleet discount.

    we legit work in healthcare and got it but they never asked for proof once ….

    • Auswolf2k on 25/03/2023 - 09:07

      You will get a discount, but not the incoming car. Fleet discounts go to the back of the line. Why in a time of such shortage would people paying the least get the first cars? This is the same reason car manufacturers have been unable to build cars, they paid the least for semiconductors, behind tech companies like Apple. Subsequently car manufacturers get semiconductors last.

      • MantistobogganMD on 26/03/2023 - 16:21

        Yea we had to wait 3 weeks, wasn’t ideal

  • Archi on 24/03/2023 - 11:55

    18 months in a Tucson 2.0 diesel highlander with 34K km driven.

    cant praise the car and engine enough, i just wish that they offerred an external N'line cosmetic pack, that would be good or offerred the hybrid model as well

    • Drifta on 24/03/2023 - 19:34

      Same experience. Have a 2.0l diesel elite, just over 5k kms and feels amazing so far.

      The diesel engine is amazing and responsive. Another mate bought a new one recently too off the back of my recommendation. He was leaning towards it anyway and has had the same feedback at 2k kms.

  • Drakesy on 24/03/2023 - 12:04

    Should've gone with a BYD

    • pegaxs on 24/03/2023 - 13:19
      +2

      With all the EV's in this $50k~ish segment (and all the new ones about to arrive like MG4 and BYD Dolphin), it makes sense to get onboard with an EV if you are only doing "school runs, shopping, kids sports events, etc". Long past is the day of the petrol vehicle being $49k and the EV equivalent being $120,000. Petrol and EV's are getting close to parity in the mid-sized segment of vehicles.

      InB4: "I need muh range!!" from someone who does 30~50km/day, in urban traffic, or "it will blow out my electricity bill"… yeah, by a much smaller amount than the petrol bill you no longer need to pay or the "But you need to spend another $20k+ on setting your house up with 3-phase, a battery and rooftop solar" of which you need none of those things.

      • Bigboomboom on 24/03/2023 - 13:47

        We are waiting for the Atto 3 delivery as the 2nd, urban car while the 21 RAV4 Hybrid will remain as main car for long trip. Having sitting in both, RAV4 is still bigger and more spacious and the Tucson is slightly better in this regards compare to the RAV4 too. For longer trip the convenience of ICE is still better than EV, you are not locked in where you stop. Having a toddler means we do have to stop every two hours yes, but we can choose where we want to stop rather than stopping at EV charger along the way. You have to admit not all EV charger are placed in nice location with good amenities.

        • pegaxs on 24/03/2023 - 22:17

          That last part I totally agree with. Some EV chargers are in awesome locations (shopping centres, fast food car parks, etc)… some are in WTF locations… like, literally in the middle of nowhere. No toilets, nowhere to get something to eat… not even somewhere interesting to go for a walk to.

  • original15 on 24/03/2023 - 13:07
    +1

    If you’re committed to a Hyundai you can get $1000 cashback if you’re a member of clubs they sponsor. This is totally separate to any negotiation with the dealer as is sent to the club or Hyundai after purchase and delivery. You just need to be a member at the time

    Bought a tucson active x 6 years ago and got $1k back:
    https://www.carltonfc.com.au/hyundai

    Make sure to read the terms to ensure you comply etc

    • nsavi on 24/03/2023 - 15:41

      Great! Which membership were you on ?
      Will being a Club Supportter member($65) entitle me this benefit?

      • original15 on 24/03/2023 - 16:26

        The part where I said read terms and conditions is where the membership type is prescribed, best read through, make sure you’re reading the one for this year/timeframe

        When I bought it was an 11 game membership which was about $200 from memory?

  • JIMB0 on 24/03/2023 - 13:38
    +3

    $50k for a 2L Hyundai. Tell em they're dreaming.

  • Sinnerator on 25/03/2023 - 09:48

    Price??? $50K+??? WTF

    • nsavi on 25/03/2023 - 13:57

      Yeah I know 10k more for features like sunroof, blind spot video etc.

      Whats a reasonable price for an suv?

      • mlburnian on 01/04/2023 - 20:59
        +1

        They are all priced like that. If you want value in 2023 you need to get a Chinese car like MG or Haval.

  • ghoulie1 on 25/03/2023 - 09:56
    +1

    Consider cancelling and trying again in September. There is no negotiating with dealers at the moment and the backlog from the factories through chip shortages have been resolved and we will be flooded with new cars by about Sept, leaving much better negotiating options. Only once the cars are on the lot can you negotiate.

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