Provides ample room for plenty of drinks and snacks with a 50L capacity
Can be powered from 12/24V systems and prevents over-discharge with a low-battery cutout
Superior insulation that cools drinks down to -20°C
High mount refrigeration compressor for easy maintenance
Convenient to transport with telescopic handles and wheels
Digital controls can be monitored through a mobile app with a USB socket for charging smart devices
Yep, proper compressor fridge.
Seems that they have quite a few Rovin models on decent special EG 30 litre https://www.mitre10.com.au/rovin-single-zone-fridge-30l-6725…
The 50l seems a lot like this earlier deal at Jaycar https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/693379 but without the battery
Nice. Can get it as a work expense as im on the road for work
and while at it you should get a 12v oven too. i have a fridge and a big bertha. went to a 4 day vacay with a family of 5 and didn't eat out once. yes tight a.. i agree but you can't blame me in this environment
@StephBlanks: I find eating at a camp or Picnic site is much better more space and less of the busy cafe space.
We mostly do beach cooking out comes the gas bbq. good snags and onions steaks etc. The smell and people looking at us wondering…… I wish i was invited
@StephBlanks: Damn @StephBlanks That is amazing. I would love to boycott eating out like that. I doubt my family would agree. Bargain hunta for life!!
What a bargin. I need (well, really want rather than need) one but haven't got the $$$ at the moment.
Sell a kidney
Pimp arse. Will have money to buy fridge. Minus dignity ofcourse.
I have this and it works well!
Same as the previous model Jaycar unit. I have the jaycar one, and actually a good unit.
I think someone said last time that the refrigerant pipes just run in the darker plastic section and so the top grey part is not cooled.
Better than some of the brass monkey fridges from Jaycar where the pipes run only through the base, causing food items at the bottom to freeze and those at the top to be much warmer above the set temperature.
They are all just Alpicool fridges with a local brand on them
“Superior insulation that cools drinks down to -20°C”
sure this is for drinks 😂
Vodka
Welcome to Russia, my friend.
In Russia, the freezer keeps food warm.
Using car battery have risk drainning the battery and unable to start the car right?
Any recommendations on a battery for this?
thanks
" low-battery cutout" so it'll help but its best to get a 2nd battery (lithium is better). or get one of those Gooloo jump starter and leave it in ur car.
This is what I do. If the fridge is pre-cooled, it runs for ages off of a Gooloo. When we go on a trip, I take three Gooloos - one running the fridge, one charging and one for emergency starting.
So you power the fridge through the Gooloo 15V output?
Would you then put the fridge on the high voltage setting to run this way?
@ozhunter68: Yes, from the 15V socket. You can buy a cable with a cigarette lighter socket or make one up, as I did.
My fridge just has 12V and 240V inputs, so I don't know what a high voltage setting is.
@R4: Oh, great. I have one of those adaptors and blew up a small 12V/240V inverter not realising it was 15V output and could not handle it as I assumed it was 12v+- so pretty careful now.
Some 12 V fridges have a low/med/high voltage setting to suit your voltage between around 11.5V to 15V+- i'm just guessing, as well as a 240V input too. Those settings can also stop your main starting battery to go flat as fridge would cut off at certain voltage too.
Some like yours don't have that option.
@ozhunter68: Hey ozhunter68 - I think those low/med/high voltage settings are usually associated with battery discharge cut off point.
Most of the portable fridges I have seen are happy with anything between 12-24v to accommodate truck voltage.
The wall adapter that came with my smaller Rovin puts out 14.5v and it happily chuggs along on that all day
I do the same with the yellow gooloo works a treat when at the park.
Will it do pass through?
So keep the fridge connected to the gooloo and car?
Short answer yes, it's a good idea to get a battery pack. You risk draining and/or damaging the car battery if you run it directly. The bad news is a decent LiFePO4 battery pack is going to cost more than the fridge. The size depends on how long you want the run the fridge, ambient temperature and setting. I would say absolute minimum is 15AH (~200wH), that should last you overnight on fridge (4deg) setting.
Thanks,
So while driving the fridge can power from the car, and when camping change to a spare battery for power, would this work?
thanks, any reccomendations on decent battery that lasts for around 24 hour?
I have a Companion Rover 40Ah, and connect it car -> battery pack -> fridge. The aux 12V outlet on my car is not powered when the car is off, so there is no risk draining the car battery. So, while I'm driving the car alternator charges the battery pack and runs the fridge (the battery pack has a pass through function). When the car is off, the fridge runs off the battery pack only. It's all seamless, no need to connect/disconnect stuff. This 40Ah pack gives me almost 2 days on fridge setting, and a bit under 1 day on freezer setting.
@LoungeLizard: +1 on companion rover, which I scored for about $450 on an old eBay plus deal. After 48 hours on 4 degrees on my similar sized dometic fridge, I still have about 30% battery remaining (after charging two phones too) camping in spring weather. I have a solar panel for it too but haven’t used it to charge the battery outside of my backyard, as I’m always camping amongst the shady trees!
How much would this set you back? Anyway to get an inexpensive combo of both fridge and battery? I've seen many deals for fridges under $200-300 but the batteries are so expensive that it makes it not worth buying
use an old car battery and a $50 battery box while waiting for a decent portable power station deal.
Buy BYD EV. Plenty of battery to run the house ;)
This little one should keep it going for a while….
https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/300ah-lithium-battery.html?…
Will this run from a wall? Is it horribly inefficient?
It has no battery right, must run from power?
I absolutely definitely do not need this but hard to pass up a bargain. Not likely to get any cheaper right?
Tech always gets cheaper my friend, more bargains to be had
It's pretty good from the wall. My 25L one with poorer insulation than this would consume 45W when set to 2 °C.
The way I use it is that I will turn it on a few hours before needing it, and the items I want to chill, I would chill it in my home fridge freezer. Then I would then unplug the 50L from the wall, move it to my car and plug it in. Then start packing the items from the home fridge to the 50L.
Battery-wise, the 45W draw is low as it is only 4A from the car battery which can sustain that easily. It would draw 45Wh per hour in this scenario. A car battery would have about 600 Wh in capacity, but you would only want to use about 150 Wh of it to avoid damage. 150Wh would power the fridge for 3.3 hours if the engine wasn't running for a 100% good condition battery.
This is cheap for a 50L, but it is likely because it does not have roller wheels and no option for a plug in battery pack for use away from your vehicle.
It would be better if you had something in the fridge to cool while chilling the items in your main fridge. Just cooling the air is inefficient.
I normally drop in a frozen chill block to speed up the cooling process. Doesn't take long when I do that, the temperature indicator shows it dropping from 25 to 4 C in under 30 minutes in the 25L
I have one of these cheap Rovin's for my wife's car,
My particular one does indeed run off 12/24V. But it won't run off 13.8V when the car is running. To use this in the car whilst driving, I actually had to make a power supply using an adjustable buck voltage regulator and a small fan, to ensure that the voltage for the Rovin stayed at 12V.
I was pretty annoyed about this.
My Waeco which I have in the other car doesn't have this issue.
Apart from that, the Rovin is great so far…
HTH
Interesting, it would just cut off at 13.8V due to it thinking that it was overvoltage?
I'm running Jaycar's Brass Monkey 25L (the stainless look one), and it runs even at 14.5V in my car which has a LiFePO4 battery, so it seems to be able to handle all the steps between 12V and 24V.
Hmm. That's interesting. Mine could be a dud? At about 12.9V it showed a fault code on the display, and shut off. Anything > 12.9/13V and it shut off. I hooked it up to my bench power supply (I'm an electronics nerd) and found that between 12 and 12.9V it was fine. I have a dual battery setup in my car, but it's old school (unregulated). I think the more modern ones incorporate solar charging option, and do PWM charging and voltage management so this might not be an issue.
Weird… I need to find the photo of the fault code I got. Given your comment, I reckon I probably just have a dud..
That's a possibility bc I have the 25 litre one and it shows 14.5v running off wall power but is happy with anything between 12 and 24v
I've read reviews that there are some brands of fridges that can't do voltages in between 12 and 24V.
Man that’s annoying if it doesn’t run in the car
Nah they definitely do usually
Would this work if my car has a 12V car plug?
Which car doesn't have one of these?
I got a Rovin to throw in the grocery getter, and it works while driving. Mines the 35L you can also put a battery in, and use the app to control. Great fridge and is as good as all the Waeco/Dometic fridges i've owned.
Does it say anything in the manual? Surely that's a fault and not a designed function. Being able to run from the alternator while driving is a key feature
Have you tried all the different settings for voltage cut offs and seeing if any work?
How many cans can it fit?
At least 50.
Are you taking the piss?
Yep, they're taking a little over 2 slabs.
Only 50 cans of it.
It is 50 litres and 50 normal cans would take up 37.5% of that volume (plus the space in between all the curves), so it sounds very plausible.
According to the promo material of what looks to be the equivalent (Alpicool CX50). 68 330ml cans or 37 550ml bottles or 18 750ml wine bottles.
The name has DC/AC, but no mentioning of the AC capability anywhere on the website. Does it come with AC plug or is it just a name???
Yeah, that's odd. Normally it comes with an AC power brick, but the site doesn't mention anything about it, and Mitre10 doesn't seem to sell an AC brick.
other sellers do list " AC-DC power adapter included" in the description. so most likely just missed by whoever typed the description at Mitre10.
Some models do,some just have the car lead - have to ask Mitre 10
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/322097446512
It seems the same model and comes with dc/ac cable and is compatible with both.
Thanks OP, ordered.
I was looking at the Brass Monkey fridges with solar and battery inputs but even on sale they are around double this price.
Anyone know how to rig up an adaptor so I can connect power tool batteries to this similar to the system built in to Brass Monkey? Assuming a decent 3Ah type battery should keep drinks cold for a day or two while camping with the bag this thing comes with.
assuming ur batteries are 18v, you'll need a step down converter to 12v (Slade International offers several). then you'll need to look at how much current the fridge draws. 3Ah convert to 12 v is about 4.5Ah. if your fridge draws say 4.5Ah, it'll last 1 hour. bass monkey 45L draws 2.5-5a means you'll get 1.8-.9 hours
Having a 12V output is also useful for other stuff. But if not needed, then stepping up to 24V is going to be a touch more efficient and cheaper, as a fewer amps are needed.
You can get fairly cheap step up and step down units too, that take 9V - 40V and turn it to 12V or 24V. Handy as it also works with higher voltage solar panels, like old house roof panels that are often super cheap or free.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/313903611266
That said, many of these fridges use inverter compressors and happily run on any voltage between 12 and 24V. It appears some don't though, and this model doesn't have a manual available, so who knows. A few models have solar input (this one does not) so can run on 12V to 50V.
The 24V low battery cut-out is 21.3V, so pretty close to a freshly charged 18V drill battery. So with the low voltage cut-out off, there should be no harm in connecting up the drill battery and seeing if the fridge runs as the voltage drops. I have an older one with no solar input and it runs fine direct off a drill battery.
Elsewhere it's rated at a 45W compressor, and 250Wh per 24 hour usage. That will be optimistic of course, but a 3Ah drill battery should do 3 or 4 hours if the unit is pre chilled first.
I have a similar size fridge. From my testing it used about 360Wh per day on fridge setting (4deg) and 600Wh on freezer (-10deg) setting. Ambient temperature at the time was 25-30 deg, and the fridge was only opened about once every 12 hours. Real world use would probably be worse
Based on this the 3Ah at 18V (54Wh) battery will last about 2-3 hours, depending on conditions.
I have the battery version of this fridge and I love it, this is a bargain thanks OP. This would be perfect to just have out next to the BBQ, leave it full of drinks
And it comes with a cover as well (as per pics). Great deal. I unfortunately recently bought a 65L fridge + cover for $308. 😌
Does anyone know what's the difference to a single zone fridge ? https://www.mitre10.com.au/rovin-single-zone-fridge-50l-6725…
$100 less and with cover
What's the difference between single zone and DC/AC?
Both are single zone, meaning only 1 compartment to a set temp. AC/DC means both can run plugged in to a mains outlet (AC) or connected to a battery (DC), likely an AGM one.
The 50L fridge in this OzB post is single zone, looking at the photos.
Does anyone know the full dimensions of this?
The site only lists the width and height but would like to know the length.
Height (mm) 545
Width (mm) 378
545mm Height x 378mm Width x ???mm Length = 50 Litres ?
Are you serious? Really?
I mean, you'd have to convert the cubic litres to millimetres, but the math should stand up for a good approximation of the capacity at least? Then add some on for the classing/outside?
50L is the internal capacity, not the external dimension in L.
Good point, I was definitely thinking of the internal capacity (and then adding on an estimate of the outside container)
631 mm
what battery fits this model and where can I get one?
It doesn't accept a battery in the cooler. Instead, it has a standard portable fridge rectangular plug. so you can buy cables online with clamps, eyelets or various other connectors depending on what you need to connect to your 12V or 24V power source.
Is this a good for house before I get the main fridge ? Is it efficient?
It's is quite small for a home, even if it is only temporary use.
Just for milk and some veggies that's it . Not much items
Yes it would be fine but it is set up like a little chest freezer with the opening at the top.
Might be better off with a large bar fridge?
@King Tightarse: Yeah was looking at good guys ones Hisense ones especially. This is more portable so made sense.
@life is suffering: Agree, more portable if that's something you can use later when you get your larger house fridge.
50L is very small for everyday use in a house. Might be OK if you only use of for a very short term. It doesn't use a lot of power (at a guess I'd say 0.5 - 0.75 kWh per day) however in terms of space vs power consumption it's pretty bad. As an example, a large (500-600L) fridge/freezer uses 1-2 kWh per day.
Thanks that makes sense. That is very inefficient when you compare. Yeah it's a temporary solution till I get a bigger fridge.
Its really not too bad - remember its not running all the time. I have a similar one that pull 40 w when the compressor is running. The same as an incandescent reading lamp
Is this an actual fridge or thermoelectrical one