Seems to be a well reviewed 3D printer and is back on sale at a pretty handy discount from the standard price of $350.
Very tempted…
Detailed specs and filament promotions listed on the page.
CamelCamelCamel.
I did, due Saturday.
I have this one as well, it's great. The bowden clip things that hold the teflon tube in place were shit in the one I got and kept coming loose during printing, I had to order new ones from amazon. Other than that it's been pretty no fuss. Fun hobby
Print a new one :)
Tough sell with the Elegoo Neptune 3 coming in a few dollars less and having all the same features with the addition of a solid bed with self leveling and slightly larger print height. PEI bed over glass as well, more of a preference really but in my experience much easier to use.
The Neptune 3 uses the same double gear metal extruder as the 2S that can handle flexible TPU as well - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcWASizI3sU
https://www.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-neptune-3-fdm-3d-prin…
hm that looks very good as well, especially with the 16-point auto-levelling
Am I missing something? Pricing in USD brings it to ~300aud for the Neptune 3.
Elegoo Neptune 3 is more than AUD$320 on Paypal for me.
If it was $209.99 AUD rather than USD, would be an excellent deal (auto bed leveling, PEI, double gear aluminium extruder upgrades compared to Aquila X2, but extra 3cm height not that much of an upgrade for me and like X2 only a single Z-axis screw).
Got the Aquila X2 in last Amazon deal for about the same price and is a great machine. As it is a clone of the Creality Ender 3 v2, then has probaly largest user community to rely on for info, with lots of options to upgrade (including BL auto touch bed leveler).
I have a Neptune 3 and I love it. PayPal exchange rate is pretty bad so I would suggest using an International transfer card like Wise that accepts USD, including the fees to convert from AUD, the rate is still much better
@Jerryngm: Sure, but main point is that the Neptune 3 is still ~$300 delivered, whatever your payment method.
Specs make it look like a good printer, but is it worth the $75 more than the Aquila X2?
Correct. Pricing on site is in USD which makes it around 300AUD.
I compared the Neptune 3 before buying the X2. Here's the main differences to consider:
PEI bed on Neptune, Glass on Voxelab. PEI leaves a rough texture on the base of your print. Removable magnetic bed to easily 'pop' your print off once done. Not sure if it's double sided and has a smooth side. Glass leaves a smooth finish on base of print, which for alot of prints can end up being the top of your print if printing upside down. Wait 5min or so for bed to cool to pop your print off glass. Spray ISO can help remove faster. I personally like the glass as i don't like the texture on the PEI mat. The finish is personal preference.
Auto bed levelling on Neptune. If you setup your printer and level correctly, you never need to level ever again. I hate auto levelling. It's a waste of time. Also consider cost and time to get replacement strain guage if you ever have issues. Also, i highly recommend installing Alex custom firmware on the Voxelab (5-10min). This will also give you mesh levelling as well as many other great features.
Touch screen on Neptune. I hate touch screens. Prefer the dial. Try going from 0.0 to whatever number in 0.01 increments. Tapping constantly on a screen vs the flick of the wrist of a dial. Even scrolling from the top of a menu to the bottom. Personal preference.
Metal extruder on Neptune. There is a known issue with this extruder that wears out. Plastic on the voxelab. Also known issues with this one breaking. Replacements are cheap and fast delivery as they are Ender 3 clones. If you want to print TPU on the Voxelab then a dual extruder is a cheap and easy option. Just remember to recalibrate your e-steps if replacing/upgrading your extruder (5min job).
30mm taller print size on Voxelab.
Both great printers (haven't used Neptune 3 but looks good). What's more important than features is:
Ensure you assemble your printer correctly. Ensure all belts are tensioned correctly. Level your bed precisely with correct tension on springs (upgrade to higher tension springs/silicone for ~$10). This will ensure you don't need to re-level. I've had my Aquila for 3 months now, printing almost every day and have never re-levelled after the initial setup. Mark position of tension wheels so you can eyeball if moved/knocked and quickly return back to position. Use a good quality filament. Install Alex custom firmware on Aquilla. PID autotune. Calibrate e-steps on extruder. Download CHEP profiles (Ender 3 profiles) if using CURA. Print an extruder knob for your extruder. Enjoy amazing prints!
Wow impressive write up, thank you!
*5. Edit. Actually meant to say 30mm taller on Neptune.
Not sure how ur getting the price
comparison to our fav - ender 3?
It's very nearly the same printer. I believe the controller hardware is different but comparable. There are a handful of videos on youtube that go into detail on specific differences but nearly everything that applies to the Ender 3 in terms of parts, advice, usage, etc apply here. One detail I remember when I was doing my own research on this very thing was one youtuber said the screws provided with the Aquila were of cheaper quality than the Ender 3 and had trouble with them, but I found them to be fine. I did have the bowden clip issue I mentioned above however.
I found the pneumatic couplers with my ender 3v2 to be pretty weak too.
I never actually printed with them, but heard enough bad news that I didn't run the printer until I went to capricorn bowden tube and better couplers
I got the original Aquila in an ebay plus deal ages ago for ~200. So much fun. A bit of fine tuning required, but you can get really decent quality despite the price. I imagine with the upgrades this model is worth it at this price point. Especially if you're unsure if you need one…
Do you mind if I ask what kind of fine tuning? Got one recently and can print super basic stuff, but anything with smaller parts struggles to stay stuck down or look messy or get lumps or get pulled off by a passing nozel. Have watched numerous bed leveling videos and am almost certain that's not the issue
This is the latest thing I tried to print but after a few layers it started pulling pieces off and generally just making a mess lol. Understand this is a bit more complex but still
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/cute-mini-octopus-mcgyb…
Sure. A few tests I did (you can look up further details online):
- retraction test. To get rid of stringing etc. had to do a couple hours of testing different settings just to see what gives the best results
- extruder calibration
- temperature tower to optimise print temps. Also depends on the filament you’re using
- bed levelling mesh (try this https://youtu.be/HPfMZGkwlww). Very important if you’re not getting things sticking down during printing
- pretty sure I turned on coasting in cura
I don’t remember exactly since it was so long ago, but I do think I spent most time fiddling with retraction speed and distance specifically. Other settings, not so important.
I also flashed Alex custom firmware (Google), I don’t think this changes printing much but it’s just way easier to use imo.
As a final point, I also store my PLA in zip lock bags with silica gel packets to stop moisture. Not sure how bad it can really be but people online do say that when pla absorbs moisture it can totally ruin the prints.
Thanks mate, will definitely run through these! There's so many settings it's hard to know where to start so this will help a lot!
Great points mate, however, i have had PLA out for about 3 weeks and still prints fine, YMMV of course, but just calling it out that if you are going to have heaps of opened up filament, best to store it as descirbed above :)
Is this suitable for doing 25mm and 54mm Miniatures? I saw a multi-coloured figure, and I was wondering if i could replicate Timpo miniatures
Resin printing is preferable for minitures.
Ok thank you. I assume this is'nt then?
Ah, no, this style printer is an FDM printer. More suited to parts of simple shapes. Resin printers are suited to high resolution, high (amazing) detail printing even at small scales.
They are 2 different technologies and processes (solid spool + heat for FDM, liquid resin + light for SLA).
Have a search of images or videos and you'll see the amazing print quality you can get out of them. Also look at the processes while you're at it.
It will still print, but the detail is much better in a resin printer, the advantage of FDM printer is the lack of post processing compared to Resin, (resin is toxic, and you need to wash and cure arter)
If your use case is miniatures, definitely stock to Resin printers, if you are doing big things (i print rc aircraft), better to use FDM
can recommend, great printer, yes, need some tweaking, but decent printer
Some points to note:
- This is an H32 chip, and therefore alex's firmware for this is only in beta, but it works with only minor bugs, if you want to use alex's firmare, X1 might be better
- THe filament sensor is Cr@pola, gave false readings after a day
- The extruder is okay, even though people have said it no good, i myself have had no issues, in fact, ive replaced with Creality extruder which is all metal, turned out worse
- Buy orange bed springs immediately, upgrade the tubing to capricorn XS, its better, however, my original one did last a couple of months of solid printing
Anyway, just my commentary
Alex's firmware is still only in beta now (as it's the latest chip) but works and will be updated in no time.
Never had an issue with the sensor in mine (touch wood) but most sensor's are basic cheap switches. I had an issue with my previous ender 5 plus ($800+ printer). I just opened it up and bent the metal prong back into shape. Might be the same issue with yours?
I recommend to anyone to print an extruder knob as one of the first prints. This pretty much eliminates the need to compress the extruder lever when feeding filament in/out and will extend it's life. What problem did you have with your Creality metal extruder? Did you re-calibrate your e-steps after installing?
Yep, stronger springs is a must (for reasons i explained in above post) and capricorn tube is also a good one.
To be honest, im still working it out, sometimes if i increase the retraction too much, the filament kinda kicks out to the side, (side of the hole after the gears where it's supposed to go to) its hard to describe
Thanks for the suggestion though, i might do the e-step calibration to see if that helps
i checked the sensor over when i took it off, and it looked fine to me, just kept giving false positives over and over, :( just running without for now anyway
Please help me to decide.
Considering I never own a 3d printer before and I hoping only to buy once. I'm a fairly competent repairer / maker that usually successful making replacement components out of woods or plastics, even metals. I'm also competent at electronics and a programmer by trade. So, my priorities are precisions and durability. Printing speed, easy calibration, aesthetic and success rate probably not high in my priorities.
I was considering Prusa i3 MK3S+, I know it's comparing apple and orange, but has anyone able to advice if Voxelab Aquila X2 is sufficient for my needs? Many thanks in advance.
If your technically competent, then can't go far wrong with the Aquila X2 for this price.
Easy to setup and get great results straight away, endless info out there from massive user base (effectively Creality Ender 3 v2 clone so anything that applies to it pretty much applies to X2).
I'm still on quite a learning curve for 3D printing. I started with JG Maker Magic from this deal www.ozbargain.com.au/node/715884 as it was so cheap, but got frustrated with bed levelling after putting on a third party glass bed, so upgraded to the Aquila X2 (for only about $45 more than the Magic after you add price for a glass bed).
Still lots to learn but ease of use and print quality has been much more pleasant with the X2 than the Magic.
My impression was that you pay more for the Prusa to get a set and forget machine, but that the X2/Ender 3 v2 are very solid performers, and a lot of fun for the tinkerer at heart because of how much upgrade and tinkering info there is out available from the huge user base.
Ive wanted a 3D printer for years . No idea what to print though.. seems like a waste of money.
I lost an arm off my Oakley sunnies. Can it print that?
Go to Thingiverse, Yeggi or other 3D print sites and see if there is a part already uploaded by someone, plus check out all the other things you can print.
So far things I've printed include Ozito line trimmer cord adapter, headphone bracket replacement, whistles, keychain box cutter (just add utility blade), customised bolts and nuts for things that don't need high strength, whistles to blow to scare the cat when it gets on table, white miniature dragon for my daughter to colour in with acrylic textas, multiple parts for the printer itself to make it work better and many other things I can't recall offhand.
If you take printer cost out of it and only count PLA filament and electricity then most have cost me cents to tens of cents to print.
Also, many of these parts are simply unavailable commercially and make the original item applied to work better (e.g. Ozito line trimmer) or save me throwing out otherwise still very usable items (e.g. headphones).
If you're not into the throwaway or inbuilt obsolescence cultures, then the 3D printers can produce custom parts that will extend the life of a multitude of items.
If you like DIY or to tinker then would highly recommend.
if you want to use that printer with OctoPrint/OctoPi, don't buy it.
I bought this printer and it barely works with OctoPrint. And also the printer comes with H32 board and AFAIK it is a cheaper board (hence it is cheap) shipped by this manufacturer.
If you are okay with SD card printing, then this machine does the job very well. The print artifact exceeds my expectation.
I have used octoprint ever since i bought this unit, and has had zero issues, both with the stock firmware as well as the beta alex firmware. Not disregarding your experience, everyone is different of course, just letting you know that i use Octo on this both PC based as well as an old android phone and works great
thanks for sharing the experience.
yup. i totally respect that.
for me, it worked maybe 2/5 times print. When it failed, it usually failed half way printing it. The extruder stopped moving and sit there just chill. :)
I have since just use the SD card to print the model (zero issues with SD Card printing), octoprint is just mainly used for its camera monitoring and its app connectivity.
Any other stores that may ship this to New Zealand? Amazon no dice.
OP, do it. Happy with mine.