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[eBay Plus] 1/2" Dr Torque Wrench 28~210Nm $22.95 Delivered @ rhodben2313 eBay AU

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PLNYDEAL

Original Coupon Deal

The website wouldn't let me post eBay link in it properly without putting profile ID or like alternative website, I dont have a clue on that rhodben2313 doesn't show on the profile ID

Was just browsing through PLYDEAL eligible items.

Pretty good price for a 1/2" torque wrench (which can easily be reduced to 3/4" or 1/4" dr with help of adaptors, and they work great as a cheap breaker bars) after the $10 discount.

Aldi torque wrench was cheapest only by $2.96 compared to this and that too 2 years ago

Dont really think 28-210 nm torque wrenches are really that cheap to be $22.95.

So i consider it a bargain, (only if you need it ofcourse).

Quality of these I aint too sure about.

But keep in mind it's not an eBay plus item, so returns are not free. (Anyway who returns a bargain)

This is part of Lunar New Year Deals for 2022

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closed Comments

  • Seems like the code only works for ebay plus members?

    • +1

      Yea sorry, corrected the deal.

      it's eBay plus only as per PLYDEAL terms. anyway eBay plus is cheapo, free trials etc, monthly subs, or other ways of getting it for free

      its also a one time use code per eBay plus account too

  • +12

    I certainly would be torquing up anything important with a $22 torque wrench

    • +3

      You really talk the torque…

      • +20

        But do they walk the worque?

        • Peter Wherrett certainly did on ABC (with pink panties and a slip on under his Safari suit)

    • +1

      Seems a lot of people agree with you, but price does not equate to quality. I bought a $330 Wera and it performed worse in both accuracy and precision than the generic one I bought from Supercheap Auto, which I probably paid $50 for. For a comparison of brand name torque wrenches check out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HP4uECoH8cc

      • The 7xxx series Wera torque wrenches were made by Norbar, a company I have used professionally and personally for 20+ years for torque setting products. Maybe the newer ones [5xxx series] have QC issues.
        Speaking of which, you can find from time to time exceptional value for Norbar products via Amazon UK.

        • +1

          This is the problem with Amazon and Wera items.Probably thrown around the warehouse before reaching you. That case doesn't protect it at all from impacts.
          I got all of the wera wrenches from Mektronics and they all been to spec for the last two years.

  • Do you know any good deal on 1/2 drive ratchet non torque?

    • +1

      1/2" rachet man not too sure sorry
      I'd personally just buy an adaptor to convert 3/4" to 1/2" (and keep using the $5 or something like that cheapo rachet set) something like this they come in very handy at times, like making 1/4" into 1/2" or 1/2" in 1/4" etc
      or
      buy a 1/2" Dr breaker bar (so at least it's more usable than a rachet and probably cheaper too)

      • I got the repco set, I realised there is a huge jump in price from 3/8 ratchet to 1/2 ratchet. I got the total tools special https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/655813. I was planning to use this set along with 1/2 ratchet to unscrew and fix the nut on car tyres. May be I should get the wrench torque, it will show exactly how much force I should apply to fix the nut on car tyres.

        • +1

          that's only sockets (set) no rachet in it.

          the torque wrench in this deal is perfect for wheels as wheels dont really need exact torque (instead they are a lot more flexible than e.g. engine head bolts etc.)

        • +3

          You shouldn't use this to undo nuts though so you would still need another tool for that.

          • @8azinga: Why can't you undo nuts with a torque wrench

            • +3

              @[Deactivated]: It's a precision tool. Nuts might be over torqued and undoing them will test the torque wrench beyond its limits. Also most torque wrenches are stronger in one direction (tightening).

          • @8azinga: my car comes with the "breaker" bar specific to the size of the nut of the tyre, on another end, it can be used to pry open the tyre rim cover.

            • @htc: What was the point of buying the socket set and a non torque ratcheting to fix your wheelnuts as a ratchet doesn't really save much time over the wrench that came with the car?

              • @8azinga: The wrench allows me to loosen or fasten more quickly, the crow bar that comes with the car, as you spin more than 120 degree, need to detach and reattach etc.

                • @htc: You might have to do that anyway with a ratchet. The tension on the nuts when they are lose might not be enough to allow the ratchet to work.

              • @8azinga: Car is the first that came to my mind, may be other things, so if I need it one day, I don't have to wait to buy one.

      • I'm sold on this, so end up getting the 10c cheaper one, link below. Never used a torque wrench before, excited to give that a try.

    • +1

      Good value for money is Gearwrench

  • +7

    they work great as a cheap breaker bars

    Never use a torque wrench as a breaker bar, it can throw out the calibration or even damage the mechanism. They're for final tightening only.

    This appears to be the same generic torque wrench sold under dozens of brands. I've got one that's probably near 20 years old. Only gets used for jobs where close enough is good enough.

    • -5

      Key is you buy two,
      One for proper torque wrench uses

      other one for occasional torquing (like wheels or something that doesn't require 100% exact torque) , and breaking nuts loose.

      • +6

        Why not buy an actual breaker bar if that's what you want? Something that you can be confident isn't going to break while you're using it. Same size breaker would cost maybe $25 or a longer and therefore more effective one for ~$30

        • Breaker bars of this size would cost $30 at least,

          and this one is only $22.95 after discount. (hence cheaper)

          and regarding torque wrench you can use this one, or any other one you have.

          • +1

            @USER DC: You'll get a Toolpro with lifetime warranty for $25 for the smallest one which is about the same size. $29 will get you a $380mm one or 450mm for $32. You can do what you want, I really don't care but I prefer to use the right tool for the job.

    • This appears to be the same generic torque wrench sold under dozens of brands.

      Yeah looks like the Aldi one

  • +1

    As above if you need to torque something to a precise setting, it's probably valuable enough that you don't want to chance it on a $20 torque wrench. Otherwise, just use the ugga dugga and count the number of dugga's you need.

    • generally speaking if you only gonna be using your torque wrench for one time (better to just buy the cheapest one or have an expensive one rented for a day), all new torque wrenches will generally be very well within correct torque calibrations.

    • +1

      Hey Blinkybill, I kept remembering the scene in the intro, "let's see what happens next when blinky bill…., and he hammered a few nails and hammered another animal's hand.

  • -2

    A cheap torque ranch can cost you dearly.! Avoid cheap rubbish from China.!

    • +5

      Is a cheap ranch sauce ok?

  • Would something like this be alright for someone who is starting to do some car maintenance:
    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-torque-w…

    I already have a 3/8 socket set from SCA.

    • You probably want the 1/2 drive version and an adaptor to use your 3/8 sockets. The 1/2 drive has much higher torque capability.

    • I've got a $600 digital torque wrench and the 3/8 Toolpro, they are both almost identical. I actually reach for the Toolpro for most things because i dont want to get the fancy one out of it's box and mess it up.

      Just make sure you back the Toolpro off to zero for storage so you dont compress the spring.

  • +7

    Same item, 10 cents saved.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/144094930694

  • +15

    Keep in mind that these analogue click style torque wrenches use a spring. So if you store it with the spring compressed the calibration will go out with time. So best to relex the setting before storing. The manual might say that as well.

    You can always calibrate it yourself. There are some guides on YouTube.

    As general rule of thumb torque wrenches made in Taiwan are superior to their Chinese equivalents. This one is probably made in China. But these click style designs are pretty well understood. They are pretty basic.

    TBH: I don't bother with these analogue click style torque wrenches anymore. Their accuracy at the far sides of the range is usually pretty bad and generally only accurate around a smaller sub range. You can calibrate the wrench for better accuracy where you need it, but that puts the some other range out. And in 6-12 months its out again.

    The beam style torque wrenches are better, but the range is less and they are less practical.

    I've moved completely to electronic torque wrenches. More uses, better results.

    That being said yesterday I was torquing a two dozen M19 bolts at 140Nm. From about 110Nm to 140Nm I couldn't tell the difference, and TBH 110Nm felt pretty tight on a 500mm 1/2" ratchet. I guess what I'm saying is that something like this would be better than guessing as most people who feel torque generally under torque things.

    For things like bikes, especially carbon frames get yourself an electronic one.

    If you want something electronic, there are electronic torque adaptor coming out of Taiwan which attached to your wrench. They can usually be had for under $100. They generally don't require calibration, insanely accurate for the money. They are nothing more then a 2 inch socket extension with a Wheatstone bridge glued onto the shaft and a simple PCB holding calibration and LCD drivers. Really basic and really accurate, and that's comparing it against a calibrated electronic Stahlwille maybe 40 times more expensive.

    • +3

      You certainly torque the torque about torque. Thanks so much for the info!

    • I had to look up a Wheatstone Bridge. Very interesting, as I'd previously assumed those electronic torque wrenches were just a fancy display of a spring being compressed or twisted, ie no more accurate than the mechanical ones. Thanks for that titbit.

      • +2

        The other piece of the puzzle is the Strain gauge. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strain_gauge

        Actually, the strain gauge is glued onto the shaft inside the adapter. A shaft is nothing more than a socket extension, for example a 1/2" male at one end and 1/2" female at the other. The strain gauge is glued onto the middle. As you apply load, the shaft twists by a little bit, and when I mean a little bit I mean something that you would not think would register. The more load that you apply, the more it twists. The twisting changes the length of the strain gauge which changes the resistance. The Wheatstone bridge notices the change in resistance and using some kind of lookup table the torque is displayed.

        For example, I have a 1/2" adaptor which I use for random use-cases. I put my finger in the female end, and using nothing my by hands I twist the male end. Now this is 1/2" so it pretty solid. With the smallest of twists, I can register 0.1N-0.9Nm depending on how much I try. These strain gauges + the Wheatstone bridge = something so simple yet so reliable and accurate. This is why I don't bother with analog ones anymore.

        Just found this video that gives a great background into everything I talked about: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSsvcNtUGtA
        One downside to an adapter is the setup can be bulky in tight spaces, say in an engine bay. Wheel nuts, bicycles, etc, there is no issue. Also being an adaptor you can use your 600mm breaker or a 200mm stubby.

    • Do you have any examples, recommendations or links to any particular models or types of electronic torque adaptor?

      and do you mean something like this on aliexpress??

      • +2

        That one isn't that great, it's an old design, apparently the accuracy isn’t as good as bellow.

        Here is a better one, and it’s the one I got some time ago.

        AliExpress

        Now, I have the 40-350Nm, but its useable from 0.1Nm to 350Nm, but below 40Nm is approx. 5% out, above that its 1-3% based on some calibration tests I did. The spec sheet says its 2% and in most places its about 2%. 2% is fair/accurate.

        Now I don't know why the seller isn't selling the 40-350Nm one anymore. Those sold very well, and there were lots of review in AE with people posting calibration info. The listing has changed and the model range has changed. All the reviews are gone as well.

        These units are made in Taiwan. I even know the OEM (which isn't ARITER). They make these for many companies as the design is instantly recognizable. They are making it for Wurth and a lot of smaller companies with some rebranding.

        Maybe message the seller asking when the 40-350Nm is in stock, unless 0.1-135Nm works for you.

        Note: When I was rebuilding a bicycle, I programmed in various settings, 3Nm, 8Nm, 15Nm, etc. It's almost impossible to hit those numbers on the dot. I would be at say 7.5Nm, apply a bit more load and bang!, I get 8.2-8.5Nm. Whereas a clicking one would 'click-out/release', these still transfer the load. So if you wanted to could set it to 8Nm and apply 80Nm..it would just be alarming like crazy from 8 to 80Nm.

        So when people says, its 2% accuracy, trying to use a hand to hit 8.00Nm is bloody hard, when the load you apply is all over the place. I was happy with 8-8.3Nm. good enough for Australia

        BTW, when I was torqueing 160Nm, I was 160-165Nm. I guess you could always set 158Nm if you were worried about overshoot.
        As you get better with your tools you will be able to regulate force better, that will improve accuracy and avoid overshooting. But I wouldn’t worry too much. The rotors on my bicycle needed 6-8Nm (Shimano give a range), so I don’t think you are going to start stripping threads if you accidently hit 9Nm. As long as you apply load little by little, you will be fine. Plus having this is a 100 times better then trying to hit the right torque just by feeling on what ‘feel’s right.

        • -1

          Its great tool but too expensive

  • +1

    Bolts worthy of torqueing deserve quality wrenches.

    I won't mess with a $20 1/2" torque wrench. Chances are you will over tighten.

    • -1

      Here's the same one without the extension or adaptor for $120 if you think it'll work better paying more for it: https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Shop-our-Full-R…

      • +2

        Often paying more is not necessarily better, especially there are lots of rebrands out there. Need some research before buying.

        Reason cheap torque wrenches tend to over tighten is because it can't be accurate across the range, and over tightening is arguably "safer" than under because if it breaks it's better to break right there and then than working loose during operation. But the fasteners will be difficult to undone, especially when heat is involved.

      • It's the same cheap Chinese crap packed as Kingchrome. Bunnings reviews confirm the quality, rather the lack of.
        https://www.bunnings.com.au/kincrome-3-8-drive-torque-wrench…

        • +1

          That's was my point and why I said "here's the same one….". Price doesn't always indicate quality.

    • What torque wrench are you using?

      • +1

        Used to have micrometre torque wrenches (1/4", 3/8", 1/2"), but I have since converted to deflecting beams.

        Problem with micrometre type is that over time the spring tension changes and it needs to be re-calibrated. I've never called around for quotes but I can imagine it would be $50+.

        Deflecting beam type is very reliable over a long long time, sure it doesn't have a ratchet, but you can see how close you are getting there as beam gradually deflects.

  • +1

    Norbar. Buy once and it will last a lifetime. Accurate and repeatable. Depends on use case, but I don't want to under torque or stretch the head studs on a multi thousand dollar engine. Cheap ones might be ok for occasional use, but I would check their calibration every time before and after use. Cheap ones often have nasty rachets too.

  • Even if its cheap wrench. I torque up my lugnuts roughly every 3-6months. And again if the wheels were ever off for some reason.

    Probably overkill, but I have seen a fair few cars loose wheels on the highway.

    • The tyres shops I have been to rely on impact wrench, I have never seen the technicians double checking with a torque wrench.

      Once I saw at Costco, the technician asked another person to check using a torque wrench and to sign off. This is a good process. But Costco doesn't do wheel alignments, so it's a bit of hassle to drive to another shop just for alignment.

  • 1/2 torque wrenches are cheap as chips, compared to the 3/8 and1/4 drives. Tripple the price. Never understood why.

    • That's why i use something like totally worth it, and often cheaper and better than buying another torque wrench.

      • i meant to say the lower torque values offered by the smaller wrenches not the drive size per se.

        For instance the 3/8 drives go down to 18ft/lb
        the 1/4, inches /lb

        supercheap has them both for $80. Nearly x4 the price of the large 1/2 inch drive.

        • The 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4 all show as $80 for me.

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