LED light bulb lifespan

• 

  Jimothy Wongingtons on 03/09/2021 - 20:13

  +1

  Well 1, it’s a Coles product.

  2, What transformer are you using with it? Electronic high frequency 12vac perhaps?

  • 

    gimli on 04/09/2021 - 11:35

    Thanks not sure about the transformer.
    Its a 2-pin ceiling downlight.

    • 

      Jimothy Wongingtons on 04/09/2021 - 11:43

      Mr16 compatibility with existing transformers can vary wildly. Some work ok on ironcore transformers (12vac) but will not work on electronic transformers (high frequency 12vac). Compatibility can vary wildly from slightly running hotter to total failure within a short window. Some led are specifically only made for 12vdc (but will tolerate ac).

      • 

        gimli on 04/09/2021 - 11:49

        this is probably a stupid question but do i need to be looking for the transformer somewhere in the ceiling?

        • 

          Jimothy Wongingtons on 04/09/2021 - 11:51

          @gimli: Yes. If you came from halogen, it’s highly likely you are running electronic.

          I tried to find specs for the Coles lamp but can’t see anything.

          You can try philips masters mr16 which were specifically designed as a generally compatible lamp no matter what you had in the roof.

• 

  MeesusEff on 03/09/2021 - 20:37

  I would assume LEDs last for 10-12 years. I had an ikea light like that which also kept blowing after less than a year. I would email them and get replacements, the last one they posted to me because I cbb going all the way there. I did have receipt though, did you keep yours?

• 

  bmerigan on 03/09/2021 - 21:03

  +1

  I've had a variety of brands and they all are susceptible to blowing early.
  I'd say a third of my Osram bulbs blew in less than 2 years, and a third are still going after 6 years.

• 

  aussieprepper on 03/09/2021 - 21:27

  What fittings are they in? Its the heat that is causing issues. The fancy looking light bulbs are rubbish they have zero heat sinking and rely on the low current to stay cool, even with the small amount of current the bulb will accumulation of heat in the string unless you have air blowing on it.

  The way these bulbs are mounted are no good no air is reaching the back to keep them cool.
  https://shop.coles.com.au/a/wentworth-point/product/coles-le…

• 

  MetalPhreak on 03/09/2021 - 22:15

  +1

  If they're all dying in the same place (ie multiple replacements) it could be your 12V transformer. If its all over the place I'd say bad electronics in the batch of bulbs you bought (or a crap design). The 12V transformers insulate these a bit from noisy/bad 240v power. Its rarely the LED chips themselves. My job involves LED driver reliability but we don't do bulbs. Heat is your biggest enemy. Remove any insulation above even if its rated to be covered - its always better, rating just means it's not a fire risk.

• 

  Hardlyworkin on 03/09/2021 - 22:27

  I've experienced this problem after 1-2 minutes.

• 

  USER DC on 04/09/2021 - 00:09

  i would say I am going to be happy with it if it lasts me 5 years at least. 2 years is pretty low life for a LED, most likely because that manufacturer had " Planned obsolescence "

  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzWU7D0S9_8

  Generally speaking Gu's BULB TYPES are not really long lasting i think, compared to E27s or B22s BULB TYPES,

  Some General Factors contributing to lower bulb life:-

  Weaker/Crappy filament
  Higher Wattage bulbs
  Higher temperature fluctuation (this also includes unnecessarily turning on and off bulbs)
  High amounts of strong light output
  Running bulbs at higher temperatures (aka with high heat output)

• 

  Kurohayabusa on 04/09/2021 - 00:18

  +1

  These 12V LEDs need the right transformer to power them - your standard halogen transformer normally outputs much higher amperage than these LEDs need and as a result generate excessive heat and literally burn them out sooner. You may need to get a low power LED compatible transformer

  • 

    stewy on 04/09/2021 - 01:14

    +3

    Changing transformers is not worthwhile, LED downlight fittings are that cheap now you'd be mad not to use them instead.

    If there is a socket outlet in the ceiling, then it's easy enough to change out yourself. Measure the existing cutouts and buy downlights that are the same size or larger than the existing cutouts. I'd also recommend IC-4 rated downlights as they aren't affected by insulation and do take note of any manufacturer recommended spacings from timbers in the datasheets.

    If the existing transformers are hardwired, then it's going to need an electrician either way so might as well get them to install LED fittings whilst they are at it.

• 

  markathome on 04/09/2021 - 07:48

  My LIFX "blew" after 4 years. I bought another ($20) - but at $70 for the original - was not too pleased. The original was multi-colour the new one only white which is why the price was a little different.

• 

  Transient on 04/09/2021 - 12:47

  Sauron, is that you?

  I have a fairly old house with a mix of MR16 (12V) and GU10 (240V) downlights. I tried a variety of MR16 and GU10 led brands including from IKEA. Certain downlights blew on a regular basis, say every 6 months. Some of these were not in regular downlight fittings recessed in the ceiling but were in fittings attached to the ceiling so had better air circulation.

  After a few months testing various brands, I settled on the ones from Martec (Boss), eg, https://brightlighting.com.au/products/accessories/boss-dimm…. They produce a decent amount of light and have a massive heat sink to assist with cooling. They are more expensive than the cheaper ones but I haven't needed to replace any since I bought them close to 10 years ago. The warm whites give a quite yellow hue so best for bedrooms. Harder to find the daylight ones.
  They are the best retrofit bulbs I could find (value wise). After (and if) they do blow, I'll think I'll replace them with the more modern downlights but it might mean going into the roof as hard to access from inside the house. Depends on how close the powerpoint is to the cutout.

  For the MR16s, as these have separate transformers, which should be connected to powerpoints in the roof, it should be a quick unplug the old unit and transformer and plug in the new unit. The new types these days are pretty good as they sometimes allow you to choose the light colour, eg, https://www.martecaustralia.com.au/product/tradetec-arte-min…