Voltage 110v or 220v - Buying Machine from China

Hey folks

Looking to buy a machine/oven to cook wonderful things at home. The seller sells either 110v or 220v machines. Which one should I get that fits within Aussie standards?

Description from seller below:

Voltage

110v or 220v

Power

110v: 3200W

220v: 3700w

Comments

  • +2
    • I did and got 230v. Not knowing anything about electricity I would assume get the 220v machine?

      • +2

        Yes. If it's some dodgy thing, it probably won't be meeting Australian standards though.

        • -2

          Not dodgy it makes bread.
          Thanks for your help.

          • +6

            @alz: It's coming from China, it likely doesn't meet Australian standards.

          • +1

            @alz: You'll be making dodgy, not bread.

  • +2

    220V is the correct answer.

    Our mains is officially 230V, but there is a variance in that and +-10V is okay.

    • +10%, -6% is the standard for supply. Not sure what the allowable input range would be for devices.

  • +11

    I wouldn't get either, as neither will be up to Australia standards.
    3700w @ 220v is a bit over 16 Amps which is quite a bit more than what a standard Australian wall socket supplies, so I hope you've got 15A sockets (although even that would be a bit low) or a dodgy sparky to hardwire it in.

    • +1

      yeah but only 15.4 at 240 so I'm sure it'll be fine, any new(ish) build will be on either a 16A or 20A rcbo.
      i'd be more worried about the crazy thin flexand internal wiring a lot of these things come with, shonky build quality and literally zero approval for use in Australia.
      you'll have fun if its found to be the cause of a house fire.

      • I've scrapped out a few Chinese market small appliances. They don't seem to like earthing metal components.

        • Safety? Overrated.

      • Agreed. My concern was more about how OP will be connecting it up. Assuming it comes with an Aussie plug, it will be pulling a bit more than a GPO is rated for. The house wiring and breakers should handle it though.
        Then again I've seen people import welders and file the 15A pins down to make it fit a GPO, so maybe the GPO will be fine.
        I'd like to see what this machine is. Surely theres a local equivalent.

        • It sounds like a bread maker. They are a dime a dozen locally. Even Aldi has them occasionally.

    • +2

      Agreed on all counts, plus not a nice chat with insurers if anything goes wrong.

      Is there no 230VAC equivalent here at a good price?

  • +1

    So long as it meets the standards discussed on the following page then your insurance will not be void if it causes a fire:

    https://www.saaapprovals.com.au/resources/frequently-asked-q…

    As for the voltage have a read of the following to see how long the appliance could last:
    https://www.abc.net.au/news/2018-11-08/high-voltage-fuelling…

    • https://www.abc.net.au/news/2018-11-08/high-voltage-fuelling…

      That article is mostly trash. Incandescent globes, resistive heaters, and kettles/toasters are really the only things that will use "more" power if voltage increases. They will also get more work done though, eg kettle will boil faster, however the difference will be pretty small.

      • I put the link as it explained that the life of an appliance would be less as the voltage increased and in the case of the OP 220 V 240 is already 20V and then add the 26/27V on a network high voltage day (aka when all of the solar roof tops are at max power btw), so the over voltage becomes 46 to 47V. This should cause the life of the device to be less than normal.

        I would expect the OP would have given up after the first few sentences

  • I would be very very careful about buying anything that may not meet our standards. And by standards I don’t just mean the correct voltage…

  • Now days everything use switch mode power supply that can handle wide level of voltage. If you don't need to "configure" the machine to operate on different voltage then it should have a wide voltage power supply. Check with the seller on what is the max voltage the unit can handle. If you have solar system you line can get up 260V when feeding in.

    I remember the old days when I need to use a screwdriver to toggle a switch at the inlet to switch between 115V and 230V. And if you didn't, smoke!

    In Australia, if the appliance is compliant it must have a RCM logo for safety and EMC.

    • An oven using a resistive element will not be switchmode, any more than a toaster or kettle. Switchmode power supplies are for either relatively low powered electronics or for inverter-powered heat pumps and microwaves. That's why the seller is asking which one to send to OP.

      I wouldn't take the risk on an unapproved 3.7kw appliance either, though. A slightly dodgy USB wall wart is one thing, a furnace quite another.

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