Best Superglue on The Market?

Mainly looking to glue Plastic.

Will any do from K-Mart? Bunnings? Coles?

Thanks

Comments

  • +2

    Bunnings or local hardware store usually have a wide variety avaliable

  • What are you gluing the plastic to? (Itself?)

  • +2

    Not really a super glue aficionado, but I got this from bunnings and happy about the low price to product ratio.

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/utility-3g-super-glue-6-pack_p12…

  • GORRILLA

    • Only when it’s on your hair

  • Do you want instant or a glue that will take (say) 24 hours to reach full strength?

    • It doesn't bother me? No idea what's more suitable.

      I need to glue the little wire/line from the boot rear lid, and the flap from the drivers overhead mirror back on.

  • +2

    Gorilla Glue , just don't use it to style your hair

  • +1

    I use zap-a-gap adhesive.

    • I had 2 drops of this stuff holding 8kg constantly for 15 years before I sold the item. Would certainly recommend it. I've also had good results from Loctite adhesives and know you can get Loctite superglue at Bunnings whereas they don't sell Zap.

      The real answer though depends on the type of plastic and usage. Superglue may not be the best answer.

  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vR15u0vmms, according to this, Loctite

  • +1

    Best Superglue on The Market?

    Use a two part epoxy instead…. Unless you don't want it to hold

  • Thanks for the recommendations, now I have to decide 👍

  • Superglues all use the same active ingredient - cyanoacrylic. I doubt there is any significant difference between brands.

    But cyanoacrylate will not bond to all plastics. It bonds but only weakly to the most common ones used for models - polypropylene and high density polythene. So try it out before you do serious stuff with it.

    • +4

      In my experience the only plastic that superglues glue successfully is its own lid when you go to use it a second time.

  • -1

    Superglue good for cuts too. Lots of mechanics use it when they butcher themselves on the job.You can use it instead of having stitches. There is a medical type with all the ticks etc but $50 a 3g tube. Virtually the same as Dodgy Bros.

  • Depending on the type of plastic, superglue might not be the best option. Also depends on what sort of parts you are glueing.

    Some plastics just won’t glue back together, or stick and the forces when you use it again just pull the adhesive apart.

    • Really? I thought plastic would be the easiest to glue? Gezz

  • Gorilla glue. The gorilla glue girl proved it is also a great hairspray.

  • -1

    I've never had much luck with gluing plastics, especially with super-glues (Cyanoacrylate), but that could be due to the type of plastic, low quality glue (reject shop) and a small surface area creating a weak bond.

    I think epoxy is considered better, but you can also get plastic cement that breaks down the plastic allowing you to fuse the two pieces together. The plastic I've mainly dealt with was ABS plastic. Once I used Acetone to dissolve the surface areas of the plastic pieces (making them soft) then fused them together. You can use Acetone and scrap ABS to make an ABS paste too.

    The other being plastic cement you get from hobby stores. Does the same thing as Acetone (but quicker I think), but for ABS I had to get 'Tamiya ABS Cement'. not sure if the other plastic cements do ABS though.

  • ‘Clag’?

  • +1

    The reason plastics are hard to glue is that they are low energy surfaces (the same reason Teflon is non stick). This means adhesives cannot spread on the surface properly to form a bond. In general if the surface feels slippy it will likely hard to stick to, which is nearly all plastics, with a few exceptions.
    The original (brown) Gorilla glue is a polyurethane which is no better than superglue for this application.
    In general, an adhesive with a solvent base like a shoe glue or rubber glue will have a better chance as the solvent allows the adhesive to spread on the surface better, or even better, melt the surface like a model kit cement.
    The other way is to heat bond the surfaces by taking the surface temperature to the melting point (but doesnt apply to all plastics).
    If you are determined to try an adheive, wipe the surface with methylated spirit or isopropyl alcohol first, to remove and surface contaminatio n, but even then its not something i would recommend as load bearing.
    I used to formula adhesives for 20 years so the above is a general summary….most polymers are difficult to bond to

  • I've used this on plastics with some success.
    JB Weld ClearWeld Syringe, 14 ml https://amzn.asia/d/0xh5Q2V

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