This was posted 3 years 2 months 11 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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Creality3D Ender 3 Original with 1kg Random Filament $208.99 Delivered @ kalo5827 eBay

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Creality3D Ender 3 Original with 1kg Random Filament $208.99 Delivered @ kalo5827 eBay
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outlander on 24/03/2021 - 14:48 ebay.com.au (1309 clicks)
Last edited 24/03/2021 - 19:50 by 1 other user

In a rush so no time to go into details, but this listing caught my eye.
Its the original ender 3 for the low price of $209. It comes with 1kg of filament (randomly selected supposedly), which is worth at least $10 imo, bringing the unit price down to below $200.

This doesn't have the upgrades of the Pro or V2, but by all accounts the differences aren't major, and I've read if you want to get a high quality print you need to make a lot of modifications regardless of whether you have the original, pro or v2. For the price difference between this and the V2 (~$100) that leaves a lot of room for upgrades. Hopefully someone else can speak to that

Ends at 7.30pm today Edit: It was relisted

If you don't need the filament, there are a few other sellers that have it for $200 posted, but there's only a few of them so I chose this one instead.
Also keep in mind that the Ender 3 is 2 years old now, so there may be further discounts as Creality seeks to discontinue it and push people towards the pro or V2

If you want a glass bed instead (~$25 value) this seller is better https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Creality-3d-Ender-3-220-220-250m…

Electrical & Electronics 3D Printer Creality3D

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closed Comments

  • impoze on 24/03/2021 - 14:52

    great price for a solid machine

  • Ameowzon on 24/03/2021 - 14:59
    +8

    In a rush but yet so detailed! Good on ya!

  • rokkz on 24/03/2021 - 15:06

    Love your work , 32 but board too I believe

  • vger74656 on 24/03/2021 - 15:07

    I've got 2 of these units and they are a solid beast… great price OP

  • ominae on 24/03/2021 - 15:39

    Can these be upgraded to silent boards by just changing the controller board?

    • robf300 on 24/03/2021 - 15:44
      +4

      Sure can - BigTreeTech make a board called the SKR E3 Mini (Find on AliExpress for about $50) which will work a treat straight swapped in- Very customisable if you want to get into the code too.

      • ominae on 24/03/2021 - 15:46
        +1

        Thanks mate :)

  • Jenny Death on 24/03/2021 - 15:53

    I might finally buy one, seems like you cant get better print quality without going way more expensive

  • Tacooo on 24/03/2021 - 15:57
    +3

    I dunno, V2 is worth the extra on the basic upgrades it comes with alone in my opinion.

    Silent 32bit mainboard, quieter stepper drivers, included belt tensioners, borosilicate glass bed, silicone heatsock and the tray/space for other stuff is pretty good.

    • dmbminaret on 24/03/2021 - 16:27

      V2 or pro better?

      • cathole on 24/03/2021 - 16:34

        v2

        imo if you can get the v2 for around $100 more or less, it's a no brainer to get it over the original or pro.

      • yoderykyo on 24/03/2021 - 16:46

        do note that the bed on the v2 only goes up to 100°C whereas the v1 and pro goes up to 110°C. something you might want to consider if you’re printing ABS

        • Tacooo on 24/03/2021 - 18:33
          +2

          With stock firmware it does. With other firmware you can go higher. I print @ 110C for ABS on mine.

          • pinkybrain on 24/03/2021 - 21:44

            @Tacooo: where do you get the other firmware?
            can you give the link

            • Tacooo on 24/03/2021 - 22:23

              @pinkybrain: Depends how deep down the rabbit hole you wanna go. I use Klipper which means I can configure absolutely everything. You should just look at some Youtube videos and such regarding custom firmware.

        • pinkybrain on 24/03/2021 - 21:45

          You can print ABS at 100 degrees

          Also getting an enclosure helps for ABS probably more important than the extra 10 degrees

          • Tacooo on 24/03/2021 - 22:20

            @pinkybrain: Yeah an enclosure is essential for ABS. Without it you get failures 95% of the time.

    • studentl0an on 24/03/2021 - 17:41
      +1

      A silent mainboard with silent stepper drivers like the SKR mini can be had for $30 delivered from Aliexpress (edit: actually it appears they have gone up in price from when I bought mine). I find the glass bed (which was included in the package I got) to be significantly worse than the buildtak material on the stock bed that also came with it, when it came to bed adhesion.

      The tray can also be easily printed as one of your first prints. Belt tensioning is simple and easy. Bed levelling on the otherhand… I really should get a clone BL touch.

      The biggest problems I've run into is the extruder and hotend, which I believe the V2 doesn't address. So maybe better off with this and purchasing the upgrades you need as you go along if you want to save cash. To me the important upgrade is the silent stepper motor drivers and maybe BL touch.

    • outlander on 24/03/2021 - 19:03

      That's the question isn't it.

      Sofar I haven't seen any firm answer on what it costs to upgrade a V1 to a level thats the same or better performance as a V2.
      A SKR mini E3 costs around $60 (price has risen recently, apparently) and a glass bed is $25, so that cuts a lot into the $130 or so difference in price.
      (V2 was recently $320 with the afterpay deal)

  • Rail Rider95 on 24/03/2021 - 16:35

    Is anyone able to tell me how this compares to something like the Prusa Mini?

    • maxwellian on 24/03/2021 - 16:42
      +1

      It's not mini, and it's not over priced fanboy gear.

      The prusa sure is nice. But if you're looking at a 3d printer you're probably/should be capable of small repairs on your own, as they will be necessary no matter the machine you get at some point.

  • Oauiii on 24/03/2021 - 16:58

    Are printed utensils, mugs, plates safe to use?
    Not sure what is the material being used.

    • Yarkin on 24/03/2021 - 17:10
      +2

      I'll let you do some research on the materials themselves, since that's a little complicated.

      The 3D prints will generally have microscopic holes and won't hold water without post-treatment, e.g. coating. I printed a plant pot which leaked so I coated it with polyester resin (Worked well but in hindsight epoxy may have been a better choice).
      Also these holes can retain food particles and dangerous bacteria may grow. Again, coating would help with that issue.

      • pinkybrain on 24/03/2021 - 21:51

        not just coating, but filament type as well

        The only safe filament for food is PLA from what I read..

        And as you said the layers line can harbor bacteria growth as well.

  • loksmack on 24/03/2021 - 17:28
    +1

    How does this compare to the Anet A8? I had an A8 for a few years but recently got rid of it after print quality went downhill (I couldn't figure out the issue) and I subsequently lost interest in the hobby.

    • PurchaseAnxiety on 24/03/2021 - 17:44
      +2

      I also had an A8, and also lost interest after spending hours at a time trying to troubleshoot failed prints. Picked up one of these last year to give the hobby another crack. As far as build quality goes, Ender 3 is far superior and using the dial to navigate the front mounted screen is miles better than the top mounted button setup on the A8. Stock printing mat included with the Ender 3 is pretty good (though I still ended up getting the glass bed), bed levelling adjusters are much nicer to use and overall it's just a much nicer experience than the A8. With all that being said…I still find myself spending hours troubleshooting failed prints. I've gotten some fantastic prints out of it, but I've also had some that just fail no matter what. I've accepted it's just part of the experience for better or worse.

      So basically, if you want the next step up from an A8, this is a good option in terms of build quality. But it'll probably still come with a lot of the same frustrations that you had with your A8, and any other 3D printer in this price range.

      • pete123 on 24/03/2021 - 18:14

        I had the A8 before getting a Creality CR-10, which from what I understand is similar to the Ender just has a bigger build area.

        It's just a lot less fuss than the A8. Like you say, something would be off with the prints but it was really hard to work out what it was. Stuff isn't always coming loose or needing repairs, the filament loading isn't awful and it doesn't get stuck a lot. Print quality without any modifications is great, and then you can tinker to get it going better. It also didn't take 3 days to build, with lots of tiny screws, it came mostly assembled.

    • Hornpub on 24/03/2021 - 18:04

      if this is the price range you looking for, you sooner will run into same issue. and it is part of the "fun". trouble shooting and tweaking

      (A8, hypercube evo owner)

  • LolComputers on 24/03/2021 - 17:32
    +1

    Just want to tell the OP that you can indeed get high quality prints with the Ender 3 Pro & V2 off the shelf

  • GunnerMcDagget on 24/03/2021 - 17:54

    From what I've heard, the difference between this and the Pro or V2 is the part quality. If you get this then you need to replace several parts or you'll have issues.

    • studentl0an on 24/03/2021 - 18:00
      +1

      That's just false. The differences are already said in this thread and they have nothing do to with the quality of the parts.

      The extruder and hot end are the same between the V1 and V2, and those are the parts that need to be upgraded if you want to increase the quality of the prints or want to use soft filaments like TPU.

      • GunnerMcDagget on 24/03/2021 - 18:23

        That's just based on what I've heard from reviewers and friends who use the unit. They all say that you need to replace the couplers and a few friends said they had to replace the surface. Haven't heard the same from the V2 and Pro users.

        • studentl0an on 24/03/2021 - 18:28
          +1

          The couplers? Do you mean the extruder coupling? That really isn't an issue with the V1, which anyway are the same on the bowden tube between the V1, Pro and V2? The extruder and hotend are the same on all 3 and all 3 need to be upgraded if you want to print materials such as TPU.

          The extruder coupling makes no difference to print quality.

          The surface that comes with this I found is better than the upgraded one which I also own. I find PLA sticks much more easily to the buildtak material than the glass bed.

          The biggest difference is the silent 32bit mainboard.

          • GunnerMcDagget on 24/03/2021 - 18:33

            @studentl0an: The couplers on both ends of the tube. Some people don't have issues but many do. That said, it costs about $10 to replace them and the tube.

            • studentl0an on 24/03/2021 - 18:35

              @GunnerMcDagget: It's the same couplings on all of them. They all use the same bowden tube style extruder and hotend. All 3 will need to be upgraded if you want to print materials such as TPU.

              The issues with the couplings is the tiny peice of plastic that holds them in place coming lose and allowing slippage between the PTFE tube and hotend.

              You can just 3d print those pieces of plastic if you have problems with them.

              • GunnerMcDagget on 24/03/2021 - 18:38

                @studentl0an: Cheers. Hadn't heard the same complaints with the Pro but I guess they're all the same.

  • madturbo123 on 24/03/2021 - 18:37

    I'm also an owner of an anet a8 and was sick of manual tuning, I did have a clone abl that worked for a while. I was going to get an ender 3 back in july/August but decided to do my first kickstarter and get a biqu bx which was supposed to be delivered around xmas. That never happened , I'm still waiting for it to land in Aus.

    Can't wait to have a 2nd printer and turn the anet to a core a8.

    I haven't bought filament since I originally bought the a8 which was about 10 rolls of esun. Is there a cheaper option anyone can suggest for pla thats of reasonable quality?

    Cheers

    • studentl0an on 24/03/2021 - 18:42

      If you don't mind me asking, what do you print to go through 10KG of PLA on a single printer, and how long did it take you to get through the 10 rolls?

      I've had good results with the cheapest PLA possible just by upping the temperature to 215c, printing at a slower 40mm/s and tuning the retraction settings in Cura which probably isn't an option for you, but just throwing it out there if you want to save some cash.

      • madturbo123 on 24/03/2021 - 18:58

        Probably still got 3-4 rolls but they're colours I probably won't use. I now know just buy mainly black and white.

        I've printed kids toys, mpcnc parts, hevo, core a8. You'd be surprised how quick you burn through a kg roll. I've printed heaps of ikea trofast insert tubs. Probably our most useful print.

      • madturbo123 on 24/03/2021 - 19:03

        Yeah definitely keen to try it. I'll have two machines when I get my biqu bx, so slower print speeds won't be that much of an issue.

        Where are you buying the cheap filament from? Brand names? I'd prefer to try cheap filament based on others recommendation.

        • studentl0an on 24/03/2021 - 19:54
          +1

          I just had a look on eBay and the price difference between the cheap no name brand PLA from Australian sellers and eSUN PLA is only a few dollars now ($24 vs $30 delivered/1kg roll). I can't find anymore of the $17 delivered PLA rolls that I purchased in the past on eBay sorry.

          It also makes a lot of sense that you got multiple colours to make up the 10 rolls. I also pretty much only print in black and white (I also have some transparent PLA but it's closer to white).

          You probably know about the food dehydrator trick, but if you didn't know about it check it out as you can restore old bubbling PLA that crackles as it prints to almost new by drying it out. They can be found for cheap on FB marketplace, or when Aldi gets them as part of their special buys new for $40.

  • GunnerMcDagget on 25/03/2021 - 20:31

    The seller contacted me saying that their stock of printers are faulty so they have to cancel orders.

    • Jenny Death on 25/03/2021 - 21:36

      Sorry to hear, mine shipped yesterday so Im guessing it was because their deal autorenewed and they went planning on that happening.

      • GunnerMcDagget on 25/03/2021 - 21:45

        Possibly. But I think it renewed around 8pm. I ordered around 6pm

        • Jenny Death on 25/03/2021 - 22:07

          Hmm, i ordered 10 minutes before the renewal time, so certainly curious.

        • outlander on 25/03/2021 - 22:15
          +2

          Sorry to hear that, but I can't say I didn't expect that. That's why I didn't make the post until mine had shipped

          The good news is that this one is still valid. Only an extra $5 and you get a glass bed instead of some rando cheap filament. A much better bet and something I would have bought if I could do it again

  • Jenny Death on 25/03/2021 - 21:38

    Bets on filament colour?

    • besmirched on 08/04/2021 - 19:22

      I got a roll of white petg. My printer had the hotend harness wrapped around the wrong side of the thing that moves the bottom plate so as a bonus I had to "learn" how to dismantle hotend to untangle the harness. They also put in one 4mm t-nut with one 5mm t-nut but gave me 2 5mm screws. Both were easily fixed but that is bad quality control. Feel like I achieved something after printing a pretty good bench first go lol.

      • Jenny Death on 08/04/2021 - 20:14

        Same, i was suprised to see petg as id assumed theyd ship pla seeing as its usually cheaper. Havent unboxed mine yet but hoping i dont have the same qa issues. Grats on your boat

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