Similar price to last deal. May even be cheaper depending on delivery address.
Uses 10% off storewide discount, which should apply automatically at checkout.
1% Surcharge for Credit Card/Paypal
Similar price to last deal. May even be cheaper depending on delivery address.
Uses 10% off storewide discount, which should apply automatically at checkout.
1% Surcharge for Credit Card/Paypal
Say what?
Most PC's have a PSU which converts it to DC I though. Do some PC's run on A/C?
Um, the UPS goes between the wall and the PSU, hence it has to output AC power for the PSU to then convert to DC. The Value Pro UPS posted does not output AC in a pure sinewave, but in a more square wave, which will damage sensitive electronics like a computer PSU.
Most devices don’t need a pure sine wave output.
StackExchange has a good write up here: https://superuser.com/questions/912679/when-do-i-need-a-pure…
@vociferate: Correct, but PC power supplies are generally one of the things that do, so I was just making people aware of that.
From the link you posted: "We had a high-end name-brand PC plugged into this UPS, and on every power blip, the PC — and only the PC — would spontaneously reboot. Everything else connected to the "battery" outlets would stay up."
@LilyRose2798: I've never had a pure sine wave UPS, and also never had an issue with the dozens of power outages that my normal UPS have successfully kept my PC running.
Sadly, "high-end name-brand" doesn't always mean decent components.
@LilyRose2798: Most likely was a crappy PSU. They're supposed to filter the AC, not rely on it being prefiltered. Check your mains with an oscilloscope. Given your assumptions, all your electronics should be dead (you'd be surprised how crappy the waves are and how much the voltage fluctuates). UPSs generally don't convert AC to AC, they only use the inverter when the mains is down or as a filter when voltage is outside of predefined limits. The concept of pure sine waves being needed for "sensitive" electronics has been exaggerated by people who don't know better and some audiophiles (whose needs are different).
https://exeltech.com/will-modified-sine-wave-inverters-damag…
UPSs generally don't convert AC to AC
Consumer level stuff doesn't (they have have AVR to maintain a more stable voltage output though), but any decent UPS used in commercial and industrial applications is usually a true online UPS. That way you feed your gear with a clean AC supply and there should be virtually no transient when switching from mains to battery source in a power failure.
@LilyRose2798: What an absolute crock of s#&*t
The value pro range runs fine for PC and monitors. They're a backup UPS so 99.9% of the time they're running as an AC passthrough. On the occasions that you do have to rely on the battery, they run simulated sine wave output. All UPS will run simulated sine wave outputs, its one of the downsides of batteries being DC and having to convert to AC to feed power into a PSU which then re-converts the power back into DC (inefficiencies, sigh). The main difference between budget and high end UPS is how smooth the simulated sinewave is and the durability of the battery.
I'm currently running the VP1600ELCD 1600VA/960w model for my AMD Ryzen 9 5950x (curve optimiser and precision boost overdrive tweaked for 3 cores boosting over 5ghz, 12 cores boosting over 4.9ghz and the last core boosting over 4.8ghz) and a sapphire 6900xt oc'd to 2.7ghz as well as a 34inch xiaomi 144hz monitor. I've had no issues, even when the UPS has switched to backup mode, and the model i'm using is essentially just a higher capacity version of the model posted. The only thing that's crappy is that at full load for my setup I get about 5-8 minutes of backup power.
The reason why some people experience reboots and power issues with a UPS is they forget to account for their power supply's efficiency rating. Most people will think 'i have an 800w power supply, if I get a UPS rated for 800w I will be fine'. However, they don't account for the efficiency rating (how efficient your PSU is at converting AC current from a wall socket/UPS to DC current to power your computer). An 80% efficient PSU will draw 1000w of AC current from the wall socket/UPS to produce 800w of DC current for your PC components, so running a 800w PSU off an 800w UPS can trigger reboots once you start reaching high loads as the UPS will usually have some form of overcurrent protection, some of them will kick in even in passthrough mode as they may have cut costs and only used a wire gauge that allows up to the capacity of the UPS to pass through. Another example is if you have an 80% efficient 750w power supply, it will draw roughly 940w of AC power from the wall socket/UPS at full load, so you'll need a UPS rated at 1600VA/960w if you plan on running a system close to 750w load. There will be some variations as efficiency ratings vary from PSU to PSU and depend on the load. If you run a cheapo power supply (usually a prebuilt system), the efficiency rating can be lower than 80%, meaning you will need a UPS thats rated even higher.
Computer PSUs are also quite sturdy and built to tolerate a wide range of input voltages. Even though Australian wall sockets are now meant to output 230v, they still fluctuate. My UPS has seen fluctuations in my wall socket voltage between 210v and 255v.
@DangerNoodle: That efficiency thing is a good point to note. My power supply is terrible when it comes to that, since my GPU is using only 77 watts of power when mining, and everything else is basically just idling. The power supply still uses ~205 watts :(
I'm considering changing my power supply and checking how much of a difference it would make. I got a 550 watts power supply sitting around - It's much newer than my current 850 watts, so it should hopefully be a lot more efficient??
@Zackeroo: It's hard to say without knowing more specifics about the power supplies and their efficiency rating and efficiency profiles unfortunately.
most power supplies conform to the 80plus standards, which include bronze, silver, gold, platinum and titanium. The rating tells you how efficient the product is, and to conform with these standards the power supply must demonstrate a minimum level of efficiency at 20%, 50% and 100% load if i remember correctly (apparently 10% load is recorded for 80 plus platinum. A 550w power supply is not necessarily more efficient than an 850w power supply.
An example would be the 205w load would be around 24% load on an 850w power supply. If that power supply was rated at 80plus platinum, then the power supply should be at least 90% efficient at the rating. 205 divided by 90% efficiency would be ~228w power draw from the wall socket. However, if you were to run a 550w power supply, it would need to be rated at least 80 plus gold to be more efficient than an 850w 80 plus platinum rated power supply at the same wattage. This is just based on the standards, some power supplies within these ratings may exceed the listed efficiency ratings, but may just fall short of meeting the next rating.
The efficiency also informs you of something else. The more efficient a power supply is at converting power from AC to DC, then theoretically it also means that less heat will be produced from the energy wastage.
@DangerNoodle: Wow, that's interesting… I figured that the 550w would be more efficient not solely due to the lower power usage, but the fact that there's about a 10-year difference in manufacturing date :)
As I said:
It's much newer than my current 850 watts, so it should hopefully be a lot more efficient
@LilyRose2798 That is nonsense. Every brandname PSU from the last 10 years should be able to handle non-sinewave output no problems. I have an 8 year old 650W Corsair 80+ Bronze power supply thats been through three different PC builds, and it handles a non-sinewave UPS without any problems.
@flubba86: PC psus just rectify ac and smooth it to a dc voltage so pure sine wave doesn’t actually matter. Motors that run off ac do matter.
@MetalPhreak: AC Motors don't care what the wave form looks like. Have you ever seen a PWM or VFD output waveform.
I've got three of these and they've been great. The oldest one has been running 24x7 for 5 years without skipping a beat.
Edit: Just noticed that it is the budget version. Mine are the sinewave ones.
Just wondering - what do you use them for? Are they just backup batteries for your computer? Would I benefit from these as a general consumer.
Connect ya router/modem to it and use internet on your phone/tablet/laptop during a black out is one example.
Unfortunately can’t use NBN HFC during a blackout.
@kipps: I have
Was thinking that usecase, then I was like honestly, I'm probably just looking for a reason to buy this thing lol.
For the odd time (let's say once a year~) that you lose power while you are at home and in waking hours, I can easily just hotspot my phone to my laptop and it would get me through.
One is for my main work PC, one for a server that is always on, the other is for the network rack so covers router, switch, wifi APs, security cameras and a small security camera server. The last one is a bit bigger.
As for benefiting from them, it's really dependent on what you're doing. Our power can be a bit flakey and I don't want everything turning off when there's a short outage which has happened quite a lot in the past. I also want the servers to shut down gracefully if there's a longer outage.
transferred to sharepoint, so no need to have a server
The main reason you want a UPS is to shutdown gear cleanly. In the case of a PC, it's not really going to keep one running for more than 10 minutes, but that's long enough to shutdown your machine without risking data loss etc. I have two in my house, a large one in a sever rack that does my network attached storage and servers, and a smaller one like the one being discussed here for my modem / router / swiitches etc.
Curious but id be wanting one to hook my main PC, monitor, router, and NBN modem. I'm guessing that would cost a great deal more…
Get one for your router and modem and another one for the PC. Just plug the PC into the battery powered power point and the monitor into the surge protected one.
Edit: looks like the budget model doesn't have separate surge protection but it should still give you enough time to shut down the PC
More interested in continuing use for a bit… so, probably outa my budget.
If you wish to put all those devices on one box, perhaps consider a VP1600ELCD. I've got one of these and it is attached to a 32" 4K monitor, a 34" ultra-wide WQHD monitor, a Dell 24" AIO computer, and a PS4. I've just turned them all on and it estimates the battery would keep things running for 40-45mins .
@viewfinder: Interesting. So you have a powerboard on it?
@Xizor: Yes, but only a small 'powerboard'.
Since the VP1600ELCD has 3 outlets that are battery & surge protected, and 1 outlet is only surge protected. I wanted all 4 items to be behind the battery & surge outlets, so I used 1 outlet for the Dell 24" AIO, 1 outlet for the 34" ultra-wide, and then used a double adapter like this to plug in the 32" 4K monitor and PS4.
I didn't want to use a massive powerboard for any further power loss/interference and to keep things neat.
@viewfinder: Nice.. Website for that model i thought said half-life of a battery charge was 11mins. Anyway, food for thought.
@Xizor: The Half Load Runtime ( min ) 11 mentioned on the website is referring to if you load up the UPS with up to half the capacity, the duration would be 11 minutes. However, if your devices do not consume as much power (UPS load), then the battery will last longer.
As an example, I've pulled up the Cyberpower powerpanel on the PC the UPS is connected to via USB - https://imgur.com/a/ZIeiInw - UPS load is currently hovering around the 190-200 watts. Since the VP1600ELCD has 960 Watt battery/capacity, my 190-200 watt load is only about 1/5 of the capacity, hence the estimated battery duration is 40-45mins.
Here's an example of the drop in UPS load when I switch off the 32" 4K monitor and PS4 - https://imgur.com/a/RnLuT8W - you'll notice the remaing battery runtime has now increased from 40mins to 70mins.
As you can tell, this VP1600ELCD might be a bit overkill for my current set of devices.
@viewfinder: Great information, thanks. My PC would be drawing quite a bit more i suspect ill have to check somehow.
Without knowing your PC config and the efficiency rating of your PC's power supply, we can't really give you a recommendation. The UPS choice needs to match the demands of what you have connected.
Also, keep in mind that NBN will be hit or miss in a blackout depending on the NBN service in your area, mainly because a blackout will probably shut down the exchange in FTTN or the hub in FTTC.
Yeah good point. Its HFC, but my PC is an energy hungry tower. Just a pipe dream power blackouts arent common.
What's the difference between these tower models and the power strip (brick) models? Or are they the same other than the form factor/price?
Form factor and capacity. Power brick ones are for people who want to chuck it on the floor, Others are for putting in things.
Reasonable price on CyberPower BRICs 1200VA too if you like the powerboard form factor. $198.01 shipped. So cheapest price at moment.
u can get around the surcharge by paying with zip pay. Then pay ur zip with ur cc
I gave up on budget UPSes years ago. I find they are more likely to damage your equipment than not using one — plus they invariably don't last particularly long before the batteries are cactus or the power supply in the UPS packs it in. Do you think a budget UPS synchronises the phase of the AC output when it switches from mains to battery? What peak voltage do you think can potentially be seen at the AC output when switching between battery and mains? You might be surprised.
Curious, what did you move to instead?
For a home environment, nothing (except whole house surge protection and power boards with surge protection). What is the point of the UPS anyway? To enable you to keep working for 10 minutes in the event of a blackout, or to protect your equipment, or something else? If you really have such frequent blackouts (that only last 10 minutes) then maybe it makes sense for you. If you're buying one to protect your equipment, then personally I think you're barking up the wrong tree.
most sensible comment in the thread
Not all, but plenty ppl not realising why should they buy this.
Perfect timing for my vintage Edison bulb project :)
Cheers OP!
Is this good for CPAP machine?
Wouldn't it be better to get something thats quite decent when you are using life saving equipment?
Not life saving, just…brain having enough oxygen saving 😊
Yes but no.
It will run your CPAP ok (although you may need to check power draw if using the humidifier function).
However, most ups's will beep when running from battery which may wake you up and defeat the purpose.
Could open it up and disconnect the speaker though
I have a Synology FS1018 with SSD drives, the compatibility list on the Syno website says this unit is "vendor recommended" for my NAS, any idea what that means? There are other UPSs on that compatibility website "tested by Synology" but this one here is about the physical size I can get away with, the others are too big, and all I'm looking for is for the NAS shutting down as soon as the power goes out - which has happened three times in the last week.
Damn, thats a lot of power outages!
Free shipping with Amazon Prime?
Sold by Shopping Express
Did you look at the vendor?
Apparently the battery percentage on the CyberPower UPS' when in charging mode is fake/just a timer, rest of the thing would still be fine I imagine.
Interesting video about it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQ8oAVTzeRY
Might have been fixed in more recent models, and wouldn't stop me from getting one.
is 900VA enough for Synology DS1512+ using all bays to gracefully shutdown ?
The VA (Volts-Amps) rating doesn't tell you how long a given UPS will power equipment, just the maximum load that can be connected to the UPS. 900VA will allow you to connect around 600 Watts of computer equipment, so probably around 10 fully loaded Synology DS1512+. That aside, and without checking the specs of any particular UPS, you'd almost certainly be good for 30 - 60 minutes running a single Synology DS1512+.
TLDR; yes
Thank you !!!
Maybe not a comparison for apple with apples. But I found this for $69 + shipping
https://www.centrecom.com.au/tripp-850va-480w-line-interacti…
Should be able to price beat this at Officeworks if you're lucky. They have the VP700ELCD listed for $199, but stock is low / sold out in most stores.
Can this be use to power the eufy home base 2 during blackout?
Yes it can power things that connect to power points.
Would this be suitable for a security system nvr with 5 cameras?
Yes it can power things that connect to power points
Great UPS. In the recent power outage it gave about 1hr backup for Synology NAS 920+ , Router & Nvidia shiled
Highly recommended.
Hi, Anyone know SANTAK CASTLE C6K, I got one, the specs refer to 5400W pure sinewave single phase. What is the single phase mean? Good or Bad?
Where do you recycle this. I got the lead acid version
Try looking here
https://recyclingnearyou.com.au
Seems the 10% code can only be used once. I should have added more items. I thought I could do separate orders.
Do these things come with new batteries already included?
yep
It's either coincidence or someone listens to ATP.
Great timing OP. Was looking for an UPS. Bought the 550W version for $130 delivered. Same model is at Umart for $169 at the moment.
https://www.shoppingexpress.com.au/buy/cyberpower-value-pro-…
Unusual shipping pricing:
Aus Post or Couriers ($19.45)
Aus Post or Couriers + Insurance Cover ($16.95)
Can these models be used for outdoor use as well? eg. Charge them up and head outside. I'd like to power some synths etc outside. Obviously not in the rain etc.
Or any these more designed to be left plugged in only for backup?
Cheers.
How much power do your synths use? These only have enough power to last about 5-10 minutes on a average PC.
I use one to power my modem/router so I have internet on a IPAD during a blackout and they only last about 2 or 3 hours and the modem probably only uses about 10-20w?
Oh ok. I was hoping for a couple of hours at least and the synths would draw a hell of a lot more than a modem. This synth rig pulls close to 2amp of power.
Tempting, but given I haven't had a single power blackout in over a decade, it's hard to see it would be much use.
Can the batteries be replaced on the Value Pro ones? The data sheet indicates they aren't user replaceable.
Yep. See here.
Can someone explain VA vs W?
It may have been a while since I studied physics at University but last I checked, one amp at one volt over one second IS a Watt.
I think it has to do with mathematical idealities - that is, it's a bigger number that the marketing team can use to make it look better.
VA is the 'ideal' maximum voltage and maximum current separately, but if they told you the usable continuous wattage it's be much lower (as dcash said above, 900VA is approx 600W), BUT it also changes with runtime which makes numbers look worse again.
Wait, so you're saying that VA is the max voltage and max current, at seperate points in time?
That's like calculating your yearly income from your public holiday overtime payrate times your longest workday ever, x365.
Ridiculous. What's that even supposed to be useful for?
"Wait, it's all marketing bullshit?"
"Always has been."
BANG
The 1500VA/900W sinewave model is also a good price after the 10% off. More appropriate for a pc+monitors (you wouldn't be able to use the above on a pc without damaging it due to it not outputting a sinewave).
There's also the 1300VA/780W and 900VA/540W sinewave models for decent prices if your pc doesn't draw as much power.