Second Hand Car Recommendation for Country Use ($5-10k)

Likari47 on 24/02/2021 - 13:01

Hi Guys,

I am in the market to find a cheap and reliable car for work use.
Driven on the highway 40km each day (10,000 km a year), then it will be parked in the open at an airport for the weekend.

Is there an obvious car I should be looking at?

My considerations so far are (but ship in if I should be thinking of something else);
Large-ish car (sedan is fine) because of highways (trucks, roos, etc)
Cheap and secure, parked at a regional airport each weekend so don't want it to be a target (might buy a lockable fuel cap?)
Reliable, I don't want to spend a lot of money on it or to keep it going, this will be driven to work and back and that is it

I am thinking a Falcon, Commodore or a Camry/Aurion.
Hard to find cheap cars these days in the market, but are there issues I should be looking out for in particular with these types of cars?

Finally, what is the best way to go about buying one of these second hand, private or at a car yard? Should I get RACQ or NRMA to look at it, or just take it to a local shop?

I don't have my heart set on anything and just want to get from point A to B and back. If you think the budget is too low or a smaller car is the go i'll consider it.

Thanks for the help

Automotive

Comments

  • GG57 on 24/02/2021 - 13:26
    +2

    My recommendation is something smaller than you were thinking. A daily drive of 40km is nothing really (probably around 20 minutes each way, on a highway).
    Cheaper to run, insure, etc. Might even be less attractive to potential thieves.

    Then again, it depends what you can find where you are.

    • ikari47 on 24/02/2021 - 14:10

      I was thinking smaller, corolla size or even an i20.
      My wife is pushing for a bigger car for safety, this region has a lot of crashes and people generally driving poorly.
      Lots of wide loads and you would see 4 new dead roos everyday.

      • GG57 on 24/02/2021 - 14:14
        +5

        Larger is not necessarily safer.

      • ilikeradiohead on 25/02/2021 - 05:17
        +1

        Re the roos, when I drove from Perth - Darwin along the coast in 2018 a trucker told me that they tend to come out at dusk and night, and then trucks driving at night with huge roo bars just drive straight over them, so if your driving is in daylight I don't think the kangaroo risk is that high. This lined up with what I saw in my trip, they'd be more noticeable on the side of the road (alive) as it got darker.

        Please note, I am a city slicker

        • Euphemistic on 25/02/2021 - 06:56
          +1

          While dusk and dawn are the most dangerous times, they still come out in the daytime.

          I have had a couple of encounters during the day. One big too turned at the last second in the early afternoon. One I hit square on reasonably early in the morning, but the sun was well and truly up.

          • Speckled Jim on 25/02/2021 - 07:48
            +1

            @Euphemistic: Also following or during rain. They like to drink from puddles, mostly on the road shoulders but also potholes etc.

  • barge-in hunter on 24/02/2021 - 13:33
    +2

    Personally, if you're looking for cheap reliability I'd go for a Camry - but noticed that the rest of your list have larger engines? Are you planning to do any towing or carry loads?

    If not, I'd suggest something smaller; Corolla/Mazda 3 class, somewhere 2010 up. Right now with crazy covid prices, it's more likely you'll find a cheaper deal on one of those (particularly if you're ok with a manual) - and they're leagues ahead of the highway wobble boxes they used to be.

    Personally, I have no quarms buying privately as long as it either has good service history, and/or I get a mechanic I know to inspect it.

    • ikari47 on 24/02/2021 - 14:14

      I did see a post saying Camry after 2012 has a great engine and transmission.
      Nothing wrong with a Corolla or Mazda 3, just the wife wanting my in a more durable car in a crash (although I might be better off in a lighter car with more safety features).

      Manual is perfectly fine. Don't want to do any towing.
      This is a commute car only as I will fly to it, no use on weekends.

      I see horror stories about buying cars that have finance etc on them. When I find a car I like I was going to take to local mechanic for a once over. But saw that RACQ do similar inspections (although probably not as good?) and do the rego checks for write offs and finance?

      I'll be paying cash (no finance) if that makes a difference.

      • barge-in hunter on 24/02/2021 - 14:34
        +1

        Thats totally fair - to be honest though, size is not everything in a crash. I believe one of the recent ford mustangs scored a 2 star safety rating. Check out https://howsafeisyourcar.com.au/ for a good gauge on the different models.

        Here in Vic, you can do a PPSR check for $2, and that will tell you about outstanding finance or a history of write off. Here's a deal where you can get a few for free. https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/605184

        Good idea to get a mechanic to look over it - sounds like you're on the right path. Good luck

  • ESEMCE on 24/02/2021 - 13:38

    These limitations will shorten your option list pretty rapidly
    under $10,000
    with kilometres under 150,000km
    with power over 125kW

    Add in MA/MB Diesel Mondeo (steer clear of the Powershit models).

    I deliberately added in butt ugly options, like the Ssanyong's (possible reliability issues, I have no idea) and Nissan Murano as I'd expect these to have stayed relatively price low despite the current price spike. People still have standards!

    • ikari47 on 24/02/2021 - 14:19

      Thanks, yeah ugly doesn't phase me, nor does power as long as it can eventually get up to 100km/h.

      • ESEMCE on 24/02/2021 - 14:43
        +1

        Yeah, you seem to be switching from a large to a smaller car in preference.
        A Large car will ride better on the highway, especially if it's a low quality road, and it's always good to have a bit of extra power on tap for overtaking IMHO.

      • brad1-8tsi on 25/02/2021 - 08:38
        +2

        I drive a 77kw Mazda 323 and a 2007 135kw Skoda. Both get up to and hold 100kph just fine.
        The Mazda needs some gear changing on steep hills. The Octavia will hold 6th gear up any hill from 80kph upwards.

        I commuted 45k out to rural suburbia via the M5 for 9 years in Mk4 Golf, various Corollas, Subaru Liberty, Octavia and a dozen different pool cars. Most cars built after 1990 will do the job easily.

        • ESEMCE on 25/02/2021 - 10:07

          I don't think anyone here thinks any modern car is unable to achieve highway speeds.
          But a Large/heavy car will ride the bumps of a rural highway far smoother than a small one, it's pure physics.

          • brad1-8tsi on 25/02/2021 - 10:26
            +1

            @ESEMCE: Was answering to this:

            nor does power as long as it can eventually get up to 100km/h

  • nubzy on 24/02/2021 - 13:49
    -3

    Peugeot 508 Diesel. Bulletproof, comfortable, efficient cruisers.

    • studentl0an on 24/02/2021 - 13:52
      +2

      While the engine might be bulletproof, everyone I've known with a Peugeot (is only 3) has had terrible issues with the electrics. Bulletproof is the last word I'd use for a French car.

      • nubzy on 24/02/2021 - 14:05
        -4

        Did not ask for your opinion based on hearsay. Let the OP do his own research. If you don't believe that French cars can be bulletproof, then you know nothing about the history of Peugeot in Australia. The only common electrical issues on these is the window regulators. ALL cars are now incredibly complex and filled with electrical gizmos and things can pop up as they age, deal with them as they happen.

        • jv on 24/02/2021 - 14:21
          +2

          Did not ask for your opinion based on hearsay.

          Talking with people who own the cars is not hearsay….

        • studentl0an on 24/02/2021 - 14:24
          +4

          I just had a look at your history and you make a lot of positive posts about Peugeot and make many negative comments about Japanese and European cars.

          https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=nubzy+ozb…

          Are you an employee of Peugeot in addition to driving one? Why do you take it so personally?

      • GG57 on 24/02/2021 - 14:08
        +1

        I've owned a Peugeot in the past, and the only electrics issue I had was the occasional headlight globe.
        Same with a friend who also owned a Peugeot.

    • ikari47 on 24/02/2021 - 14:18

      Thanks for the alternatives.
      How do these cars go for services and spare parts?
      The car will be in country QLD, but I will be able to take it in to a bigger centre for a service.
      It will get at least a cracked windshield or two as well.

      Other thing I was contemplating was just getting Third Party insurance, why I am happy to get a shit box.

      • nubzy on 24/02/2021 - 14:29

        Servicing can be done anywhere, but most people prefer to take to an independent specialist. I have no idea about parts for these, you can find a good community on Aussiefrogs with a lot of support, there are mechanics and wreckers active on those forums. Worth making a post there if you are interested in one of these.

  • jv on 24/02/2021 - 14:20
    +1

    for Country Use

    Have you considered a horse?

    • JIMB0 on 24/02/2021 - 14:33
      +2

      Don't be silly. Everyone knows a camel is superior.

      • jv on 24/02/2021 - 14:39
        +1

        Fair point.

        See them more in the desert though, rather than the country…

        A donkey is an option too… Would get more looks and comments about their nice ass…

  • MS Paint on 24/02/2021 - 14:20
    +5

    VY Series 2 Commodore.

    Cheapish to purchase / run / insure. Will run for ever. Comfortable. Parts are readily available and cost peanuts. Good size for highway. Clear coat probably already stuffed so perfect to leave at airport carpark. No major issues with engine or transmission. Look for a grandma spec executive that some old fart has owned and cherished for the last 16 years and you are laughing. If it's missing badges, lowered or has a sports exhaust then avoid - some 19yo has thrashed it.

    • ikari47 on 24/02/2021 - 14:31

      I thought there would be more for sale, looks like they are starting to get rare.
      This one looked alright.

      https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2003-holden-commodo…

      • MS Paint on 24/02/2021 - 14:37
        +1

        That's what I'm talking about (though it is a series 1). Definitely has a covid tax on it. This would have been about $4-5k pre covid. No one will want to steal that colour so that's a winner also. With kms so low the only thing I would be cautious about is dried up seals especially the rear main seal.

        Also avoid the VZ series if you see one you like. Infamous timing chain issues that cost a bomb to replace.

      • pharkurnell on 24/02/2021 - 15:36

        Everything "CHEAP AND GOOD" is rare now and 2-4000 more expensive than pre-covid

  • JIMB0 on 24/02/2021 - 14:26
    +3

    Mitsubishi 380.

    • nubzy on 24/02/2021 - 14:42

      This is also a good suggestion

    • MS Paint on 24/02/2021 - 19:47
      +1

      This would have been sweet

    • redvaldez on 08/03/2021 - 13:21

      Came to make this suggestion. I've had two. They're bulletproof, comfortable, plenty of up and go, and make a great highway tourer. Only downside is that most of them have pretty badly faded paint, but I suppose it'd make you feel less bad about leaving it at the airport all weekend?

  • wiipantz on 24/02/2021 - 15:30

    falcon on gas

  • pharkurnell on 24/02/2021 - 15:36
    +1

    Mate of mine does similar, and went with a Yamaha Scooter.
    Cheap to run, cheap to buy, cheap rego, and can drive over kerbs easily ;)

    • GG57 on 24/02/2021 - 15:38

      I was thinking of something similar earlier; OP is only going 20km each trip.

    • MS Paint on 24/02/2021 - 16:06

      Bad advice. Regional roads with trucks and kangaroos. No thanks.

      • pharkurnell on 24/02/2021 - 16:14

        Noodle did it for 4yrs FIFO work without issue. As long as you can sit on 110kph you'll be fine

        Also depends day/night travel if it was night I'd agree.

        • pharkurnell on 25/02/2021 - 10:08

          Yea fair enough..
          Everyones different. I had a bike for ~10-12 yrs before having my first car so wet weather doesnt bother me, but shits lots of my mates. :)

    • brad1-8tsi on 25/02/2021 - 08:44

      Unfortunately the OP doesn't say how much gear he has. When I was doing country flights I had a small bag of clothes and a large bag of PPE and equipment.

      I couldn't think of anything worse than coming home from a work trip and having to ride home in crap weather

      • md333 on 25/02/2021 - 15:27
        +2

        Hitting a roo would probably be worse. Never tried that, but I have hit an emu on a motorbike and don't rate it highly as a life experience. Did get a free ride in a plane though.

  • Euphemistic on 24/02/2021 - 16:04
    +1

    Falcon or commodore, fit a bull bar. Only suggest these because you should be able to pick up a bulk bar fairly easily.

    Other alternatives might be harder to get a bull bar for.

  • brendanm on 24/02/2021 - 17:54
    +2

    Aurion.

    • ikari47 on 24/02/2021 - 21:19

      Love the Aurion, probably a couple grand more expensive than I wanted.

      How does the camry compare from the same years 2007 to 2009?

      https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2009-toyota-camry-t…
      Thinking of having a look at this one.

      • brendanm on 24/02/2021 - 21:27

        Plenty of aurions in your price range last time I checked. From my experience, Aurion is better, more power, 6 speed auto, approx the same or better economy.

  • Lawrencep93 on 25/02/2021 - 08:19

    Want to buy my 2006 530d it's in great condition, 145,000km, full-service history, drives super smooth and easy, has 500nm of torque 0-100 in under 7sec whilst getting 1,000km out of a tank of fuel if highway driving, I am from Victoria though

  • dazeet on 07/03/2021 - 15:25

    Thank you ikari47 for your question.

    Your requirements seem to match mine - trying to maximise real world crash safety, reliability, and longevity, whilst minimising financial and logistical pitfalls. Function over form etc.

    Be encouraged that you are already thinking in the right direction! True OzBargain thinking… :)

    For real world crash safety, I would place more weight on the Used Car Safety Ratings (UCSR) than ANCAP ratings, as AFAIK the former is a rating based on real world crashes, with a consistent yardstick across all vehicle sizes and classes (albeit only regarding driver protection - possibly because of the different body shapes of sedans/wagons/hatches behind the front row seats that may affect the protection of second row occupants). The UCSR gets updated annually - here are the latest ratings:
    https://roadsafety.transport.nsw.gov.au/downloads/ucsr-2020.…
    Start by looking at 5-star UCSR if your budget allows, then 4-star if you must. In terms of body style - a sedan would be the best, as it maximises front and rear overhangs to maximise crumple zone sizes, and has a fixed rear glass and parcel shelf to maximise body rigidity at the rear. It also reduces repair costs from minor bingles, making the car less likely to be written off prematurely, and therefore better for the environment :)

    For reliability and longevity, go for something with the most basic, mainstream, simple and proven engineering. That means going for cars with larger and less stressed engines with more torque at low to middling revs that are happy to drink regular 91-octane unleaded, and normal torque converter/epicyclic gearboxes, and try to steer clear of downsized and/or turbocharged engines, "boxer" engines, modern high-pressure diesels, those requiring higher octane, those with dual clutch or continuously variable gearboxes, all wheel drive systems (unless you drive on low-grip surfaces regularly and the benefits outweigh the initial and ongoing costs) and petrol-electric hybrids etc. Avoid vehicles with timing chain driven water pumps. Some would advise favouring timing chains over timing belts, but personally, I would rather have a fixed time/distance-based replacement cost that I can factor in in advance (and have a reputable independent mechanic do the job - maybe change the pulleys and water pump and other related parts at the same time), than a timing chain especially from a less durable car make/model that may result in even more expensive repairs when the chain fails at a less predictable time/distance.
    Regarding crash avoidance tech: ABS and well-tuned suspension and traction/stability control systems are great, but for things such as blind spot sensors in the wing mirrors, and AEB - consider if you really need them, as they hike up replacement/repair costs of any parts these sensors are built around/into, and will make the car easier/quicker to write off. Recommend putting the money saved from buying more expensive models with bigger diameter wheels and less common and/or lower profile tyres that will likely hike up tyre replacement (if not wheel repair) costs, into buying better/grippier tyres at a more common/comfortable wheel/tyre size/profile for the same if not less money even if they may not last as long :)
    The other thing to do is to look for owners' reviews of particular makes and models of interest. No car will be perfect, but some may have design/common faults that can either be addressed with better quality aftermarket parts, and/or won't be that expensive to fix, and/or won't get in the way of you getting from A to B. Steer towards those makes and models.

    In terms of fuel costs - driving style can already vary that by up to around 30%, so try to drive more efficiently i.e. riding on the engine's torque curve, and not accelerating/braking more than you have to. Save money on brakes as well. For additional saving on fuel costs, you can even consider vehicles that are LPG-only or already have a LPG system installed, if you have good LPG availability and pricing in your vicinity, and you can do with less boot space and/or without a full size spare wheel.

    Lastly, the usual caveat emptor of course e.g. full service history (including receipts if available), no signs of neglect/major crash damage, pre-purchase inspection, PPSR etc.

    Hope this helps - and all the best with your car hunting adventure! Please do update us on how you go.

  • bhubb18 on 08/03/2021 - 10:06

    Subaru outback / forester are reasonably nice cars for the money. They do have issues, like every car does, but IMO they are a decent all rounder and practicality is 10/10 with them without too many compromises.

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