Best Car to Run into The Ground - $10000, $20000, $30000

I currently have a manual 2000 Honda CRV, purchased in 2014 for $5k. I've put 120,000kms on it (now at 290k) and servicing has never needed anything more than standard maintenance. My current plan is to run the car into the ground to save money long term, and that should be at least another 3-5 years barring any major issues touchwood.

This got me wondering, what would people choose if they were doing something similar today. With a budget of 10k, 20k or 30k what cars would people here buy with a long term plan of running them until its not worth repairing them. New or used is fine, as long as used stock is somewhat reasonably available.

I'd also be interested in what people think of options or other extras that would be worthwhile if buying new. I figure it might be different if you're buying for life rather than for resale but it also might depend on what you value.

Comments

  • +4

    10 years ownership is considered run in to the ground? Or are you saying over 300k on the clock? I've owned a few cars longer than 10 years and they were still in very good nick when I sold them. No major issues either in that time. Regular preventative maintenance goes a long way.

    If I wanted something to last say 20 years/400k, I don't really know what I'd get… maybe a diesel (no DPF though)? Minimal electronics/tech, nothing fancy!

    Buying something new for 10-30k these days, I pretty much expect the car to be disposable and would be surprised if I still had it after a 7 year warranty period.

    The way prices are at the moment, you could sell you car for the same price you paid for it 6 years ago lol

    • Not at all, run into the ground is when its no longer viable to repair, so when it costs a few thousand to keep it on the road I'll consider something new. Basically keeping it as long as possible with no view of selling it.

      But I guess if I hold onto it long enough it will turn into a JDM icon, and I can charge 10k for it ;p

    • why are used car prices so crazy these days?

      • +2

        COVID-19

        • -4

          COVID-19? Huh? Carsales website got infected?

          • +6

            @User102430: Public transpo usage down 40-60% in Sydney
            Everyone is driving around roads are around 90% pre covid levels with heaps of people still working from home
            Everyone had access to super
            New car prices jumped bec of demand, supply chain, exchange pressures, overpriced "add on" features and added standard safety etc

  • I guess it depends on how rough you are with your cars.

    • Agreed, I'm pretty chill on my daily driver so it's been very good to me.

  • +2

    Weird question. Obvious answer is that something you can buy that will have longevity, or a long warranty, or cheap to fix. What this means is probably buying something a bit more plain boring. Anything that is too popular will be overpriced for something to run into the ground (e.g. Toyota Prado, any dual cab ute, most mid-size and large SUVs). You are looking for something that has been unloved, or something that is fairly low tech or plentiful so cheap to fix.

    List would include:
    - Most things Mitsubishi - Lancer or ASX for the $10 or 20k bracket, Outlander for the $20 or 30k bracket. Probably cant get into a Pajero. Always criticised for being a 10-12 year old model/engine, etc. but it just works and is super reliable
    - Good old Australian sedans/wagons - Ford Falcon & Territory, Holden Commodore, Toyota Aurion. Not Japanese reliable, but only cost $2.50 to fix.
    - Possibly other unloved suspects like Mazda 6 or if you can get a Camry cheap enough. Corolla would fit here too.
    - (personal fave) latest model Honda Odyssey. Only Japanese-made Honda, some have 7 year warranty, cheap to buy. Reviews are harsh and its basically a MPV version of the Accord Euro.

    Im hesitant to suggest anything Hyundai/Kia as you tend to not see too many of them around that are over 10 years old. Understand they might not have been as popular, but most of the old Kia Carnivals or Sorentos have some major engine issues.

    • I like what you're thinking. Falcon's and commodores are on the road 30 years later regularly. The Kia's seem like a trap, good for the warranty, but after that its game over. I have a bit of a bias against how lancers look, but thats personal preference over anything else, the ASX I drove as a rental a while back seemed pretty good too. Toyota Aurions seem like a forgetable and yet pretty good option, seeing as they have had a lot of discounts on them. I didnt even think an Odyssey would be in that price bracket, but a Japan built honda would be pretty awesome, as I've greatly enjoyed the CR-V.

    • Get whatever you can new for 30k that has a 7 year warranty and drive it to the end of the warranty maybe.

    • +1

      Mitsi's? Are they honestly reliable?
      Heard nothing but complaints about the cheapness of the ASX but everyone I know that had one never owned it long enough for it to break

      • Long warranty if you service it at the Mitsu dealer.

    • +2

      I see overt of Hyundai’s over 10yo. You might be surprised how old some of them are. I know I regularly get a surprise when I actually work out how old a car is

  • +4

    FG Falcon (G6E non-turbo) ~10k-20k bracket. If the diff bushes have been replaced you're good to go.

    Jokes about it and the Commodore being the bog standard choice aside, you really can't go wrong. Also an Aurion. 2GR engine in it is basically Toyota's workhorse these days - can find it in everything.

    • Whats your pick of the 3?

      • +1

        G6E (for the reliable drive train, and imo best handling (obviously not for corner carving, but day to day it soaks up the bumps and has the most positive steering feel - arguably the worst interior (it's kinda ugly, but it works and does the job))

        Aurion (feels the fastest, Toyota reliability, but feels heavy and large in the corners - front wheel drive also means its turning circle isn't the best - which isn't a real big deal, but dampens the total experience of the car when im trying to move around a car park. Also as a side-note you need a special tool to replace the oil filter (if you were to do the maintenance yourself))

        Commodore (I don't trust the engine (V6), although the VF has the best interior by far)

        EDIT: Just for reference -I own an Aurion - I was going to go for the Falcon but I managed to get a fully loaded Aurion Presara with under 100k for $9.5k (pre-covid) - and whilst I'm kinda bummed about the handling, I have no other issues with it.

  • +1

    If pick something the shape/size I want by a Japanese co. Possibly Hyundai or Kia if I liked the particular model.

    I’ve mostly had older cars and would run then into the ground except I’ve changed circumstances and wanted something different to suit. Eg 91 corolla purchased around 2011, got too small and wanted a wagon with AC. Used the threatened ban of unleaded 91 as an excuse. purchased a 2003 forester around 2013 wanted a ute, used an impending clutch replacement as a reason. 2007 twin cab ute about 2016, no plans to sell.

  • +1

    I'm not expert but I'd be happy with getting 1 years worth per $1000 spent on the upfront cost. e.g. Get 20 years out of a $20,000 car. A car with minimal petrol and servicing cost on top would be ideal, obviously.

    You're doing great with your CRV in my books.

  • -1

    Diesel Peugeot

    • +2

      A diesel Peugeot is run into the ground before it leaves the showroom.

      • -1

        Eh? They are known for doing huge mileage and paired with the Aisin transmission it is a great combination. Get a 308 or 508 and run it into the ground. They're cheap to buy, comfortable, fun and excellent cars.

        LOL. Knew it wouldn't be long before the Ozbargain experts who have never owned a Peugeot and know zilch about the brand pop by.

        • What's their servicing costs and parts like? I'm cautious on euros but thats more a early 2000's prejudice than anything grounded in fact.

    • Probably the 20+ yro ones, I guess? I think the newer turbo diesels don't have the staying power.

      • +1

        They were probably saying the same thing 20years ago, these new ones won’t last, only the 20yo ones were any good.

        Family friends always had diesel Peugeot from when I can remember back in the 80s. Been turbo for as long as I can remember.

        • Survivorship bias.

          Everyone knows an old french car that's been pottering on for decades. Bet there's five times as many in the tip and at the wreckers though.

          • @[Deactivated]: Same can be said for many different models. Look after them and they keep going, neglect at your peril. Where the euro’s get you is the normally expensive parts and maintenance. Parts get to dear, you let them die sooner.

            • @Euphemistic: Totally agree. It's common across all cars therefore it shouldn't be an argument about a particular french diesel drivetrain being super reliable.

  • I currently have a manual 2000 Honda CRV, purchased in 2014 for $5k

    wait, you paid 5k for a 4 year old car? nice buy…

    • +2

      Maths…14yro.

      • honestly, if I didn't point it out most of ozbargain wouldn't have noticed the bargain

    • Math checks out.

    • +1

      OP said…I currently have a manual 2000 Honda CRV, purchased in 2014 for $5k.

      • -1

        no he said…..I currently have a manual 2000 Honda CRV, purchased in 2014 for $5k.

        • +1

          no he said…..I currently have a manual 2000 Honda CRV, purchased in 2014 for $5k.

          • +1

            @Hirolol: I clearly said I currently have a manual 2000 Honda CRV, purchased in 2014 for $5k.
            ;)

  • +3

    Look at mr fancy pants with his 5 digit budget!
    ;-)

    Used car prices are insane right now, but I would be suggesting 15-20yro cars at $5k and under is where the real "run it into the ground" value lies. Buy with some cosmetic issues, but good log books. Maintain close to log book standard for oil/fluid changes ( I personally skimp on spark plugs etc that are no big deal until they fail, and push out big ticket stuff like timing belts a bit longer - but I am happy to risk the inconvenience of a trashed motor if I have bad luck). When the big ticket items like a timing belt are worth the same as the car, I just take a punt. My sister is 70k over on her Camry, and she would be quite happy for a change of vehicle.

    Things like big holdens and fords. Mitsubishi most things, but especially Magnas. Toyota and Honda boring mobiles like Camrys and Civics, but you'll pay a bit extra to have the increased reliability. If you're made of money, Landcruisers, Prados, Pajeros, Hiluxes all regularly do 20+ years and 300k-400k kms.

    I bought a Mitsubishi 380 recently cheap, and I have good hope it will do another 100k, and be a reasonable first car for a kid in a few years.

    I quite like cars, and find it interesting to drive different ones when I rent them etc. And I find getting a different old car every 4 or 5 years is also nice, and if I get a good one that last 7 or 8 years, great. For me, it isn't that much better to get a new car, so I am happy to save the money.

    • Totally agree. If you are paying $30k for a car to run into the ground you are going to have it a very long time.

      I’d much rather change vehicles more often - although if it is a model recommended as being suited to run into the ground chances are it’ll be worth more in resale because it’ll last a long time.

      • Honestly the higher price points were to contrast against the forum posts around "I want a car for $X" as I felt my viewpoint was a little difference. If I pay more than 10k for my next car I'll be damn surprised.

        Agree on the Toyota 4x4's, but the running costs in the city is going to be pretty high compared to something on the smaller side. The boring cars seem to be the winners, maybe a hail damaged one with a good service history to get a good discount.

        I was lucky to have a work Hyundai Getz for 3 years while my partner drove this, so I got to have something different to try for a few years.

        Maybe if I get the right 15 year old car and keep it for 15 years it will be a classic and I can make some money….

        • +1

          I saw a 1990 Corolla hatch all beaten up - but with car club rego plates. So you can save on expenses if you are infrequent driver.

          • @mskeggs: Hahahahah, "thats classic". I only have the 1 car so club plates is out, but I'd definitely use them if I had the option. My old man has a bedford bus on club plates that's been converted to a RV and he gets great value out of it.

      • +1

        Still driving a 1990 Hilux 4x4 that my parents purchased new for 26k. Probably worth 10-15k at the moment, and comprehensive insurance is only $152/year. Still a long way from running it into the ground. Super reliable. Possibly one of the cheapest cars ever (per year) if you consider depreciation and running costs.

  • +3

    The big issue with new cars is the cost of repairs. Eg. windscreens on most Subarus are now close to $1500, whereas an older model might be $300.

  • Going from $5k to $10k, $20k, $30k is a big jump.

    Used car prices are nuts, in fact near new prices are so close to new might as well buy new.

    Stick to the Toyotas and Hondas and you'll be set. Essential features probably decent amount of airbags, radar cruise control and lane departure warning. The rest is just luxuries.

  • Ford Falcons make great taxis so that says a lot for longevity. Any car that is a common brand for a taxi would be worth considering. They don’t use cars that are a lot of expense to maintain and need to be retired early now do they?

    • They are all Toyota hybrids around here these days.
      The old Ford transmission clunk in a taxi that hd done 500,000kms is hard to forget.

  • Have driven different Hyundai sedan and hatchback for 20 years and never had a problem or a breakdown. sSuper reliable and cheap to run. Usually drive for 7 years or so and then sell in excellent condition. Never replaced anything on cars in 20 years except tyres and batteries. Get car serviced at dealership to log book specs and no trouble to sell for a good price.

  • +1

    Full size landcruiser. 2000-2005 model. You’ll get 20 years for 20k, then it’ll be worth 10k or more lol. Even when it’s “unviable” t repair, they still fetch coin.

    • I've heard the resale value is pretty damn good on them, and they will last forever (or close too). For me it's not ideal as I live/work in the inner city at the moment. If I can pull off a move to the country I'd definitely consider this.

      • They’re really not “that” big. And drive like a normal car. Yes, they do last forever. The petrols easily last well over 750,000km and the diesels easily double that. Just need very basic maintenance.

        • +1

          They’re really not “that” big. And drive like a normal car.

          Sarcasm tag missing? A land cruiser is not suited as a city not car.

          • @Euphemistic: Suited me just fine when I was living in Redfern and working in everleigh. Awareness of car and surrounds is far more important. We’re not in Europe where we have cobblestone alleyways 1.6m wide everywhere.

  • +1

    We buy older cars (10 years+) with very low kilometres and drive them until they die. We have done this with a couple of Ford Falcons, a Toyota Corona and a Toyota Prado. My current car is a 2001 Toyota echo. We bought it about 4 years ago for $5000 with only 23,000km on the clock. It now has 115,000km on it and we have not spent anything on it other than regular basic servicing, tyres and a battery. All of our kids learnt how to drive in it and now our youngest actually wants to buy it from us.

    • I'd personally be against shopping trolley cars (old but little mileage due to being driving to the shops and back) these tend to have parts prematurely wear out due to optimal temperature never being reached for engine and parts.
      Besides you are paying a massive premium just because it's "low km" specially if it's at a dealer. That few $1000s for the lower KMs version would be better spent by getting a car with standard mileage for age and kept aside for possible repairs that come come. In my book the golden standard is service, make sure it's all been done and there's record of what happened (not just stamps in the book but actual receipts with itemised fixes). The other rule is try finding single owner cars, there's generally more sentiment and "value" in the eyes of fire owner so they will look after it much better than someone who bought it for half the price of original 10 years down the road and skimped on every single service because the car wasn't worth it no more.
      It would be a different story if the car was a weekend car for the owner but it's less likely to get those cars in these prices.

  • I enjoy having different cars. So every 2-3 years I see better cars in my modest price bracket and sell the previous one. Usually I pay a few thousand extra, that and the occasional repair, mean I spend about a thousand a year to have a car to suit my needs. My needs also change every 2-3 years, so that is another reason. But things like safety improvements are always important to me. Like at one stage seatbelts were only in Volvo and Mercedes… then ABS only in BMW and Porches…. and eventually I can buy a regular car with all that fitted, so now I have autonomous braking, blind spot alert etc… every 3 years more cool stuff is in the cars I can afford. And I drive cars that are typically 5-10 year old. Every time I change car I am super happy and proud in my 'new' car… if I drive a car in the ground I would have to have $10k+ to buy another one and I could never afford that, nor would anyone give me a loan… so settling for $10k and adding a few $k every few years is a great option..

    • That's an interesting perspective. I always find selling used cars for what they're really worth quite challenging, so your scenario of changing over for just a few $k sounds personally implausible to me but I like the idea!

      • Yes, very difficult to sell for a good price, which means I also spend about 3 months looking for a car so I get one at a decent price… Almost always sell at a loss, but hence you have to add some $$ for the next one. The nice think about looking at cars to buy is that if your current car is perfectly fine there is no rush to buy another one. This means I have alerts on carsales.com.au etc set for cars im dreaming of, even 6 when I'm not planning to buy yet …. and sometimes I actually list my car for sale on one of those sites where you pay a fee 'till sold' and have it sitting there for a reasonable market price for 3 months+ just in case.

        It sounds like ft work, but I enjoy watching the alerts come up and reading about cars. Cars for me are a bit more than transport perhaps, but I also don't get attached to them :)

        My last car was a coincidence, I had been keeping an alert on MD Mondeo Titaniums, which mostly go for 25k… well out of my budget. One came up in my state for 18k. A month later I was put in a position to sell my $5k old 1989 campervan and due to covid sold it for 15k and I got the mondeo for 17k. That was a huge lucky break for me. Can't believe I got the opportunity to find a mondeo titanium at that price in my state. It was higher mileage and petrol which made it affordable for me and lucky noone bought it in that month! Normally my luck goes the other way!

  • Toyota Corolla if you get a Made in Japan model. The first character of the VIN number will be a J.
    I believe that currently the sedans are made in Thailand and the hatch in Japan.

  • Hard to go past a Commodore. Assuming the specific vehicle has no sleeper issues/you don't get unlucky, these things just keep going with decent regular maintenance.

  • 10k Corolla
    20k Camry
    30k Hilux
    30+k Landcruiser

  • +1

    Corolla, Camry, Lexus (anything with a V6). Anything Toyota, Mazda or Honda that's naturally aspirated and not hybrid is pretty hard to break.

    Falcon over Commodore (6cyl wise), though both good. These and the Japs all cheap to fix if they ever do break - including Lexus, which many don't realise.

    Probably all good for 500,000kms if maintained properly

    • Plus one for Lexus. High level of safety stuff for their age, and go for a long time if well maintained. Toyota with leather seats.

  • If you buy a car for 35k, drive it for 15 years and sell it for 5k you have to find $35k to buy a similar car again probably more. And for 10 yrs you've driven an 'old' car. That is $2333 lost per year. So better to buy a 5 yr old car for $15k, keep it for 2+ years, sell it for 12k, add say 4k if you can (budget 2k per year) and buy a newer nicer second-hand car. Most of us can somehow conjure up a few k$, beg, borrow or steal… You'll have fewer repairs, save depreciation money, drive a newish/fun car all the time, with modern safety and comfort features… And if you do keep a car for 15yrs you would need a car loan to buy your next car, because no one has 20-40k lying around.. so monthly payments of 500 for 5 years at really low interest is only 30k. And if you are worried about getting a lemon,… you have that chance with any car, new or old, and repairs are needed on any car, older cars have more expensive repairs too, but I left out repair costs because sometimes you have big repairs on newer cars too, and nothing will be more painful than $500 monthly payments! So if you do get an unexpected $500 or $1000 repair just remember you have no car repayments!
    So my question is can you afford a newer car every few year? My answer is how can you not afford it!

    • What if you have to take out a loan to buy a 15k car to start with? I'd make the argument that having 15k or 30k is about as likely given wealth disparity, but thats neither here nor there. Its a good strat but you're constantly losing money as you do it (1-2k per year/ish) and having to top up your purchase. I'd argue repairs on a 5 year old car vs a 10 year car would be similar if you get a decent older car and you're just doing regular servicing (tyres, oil changes, wear and tear).

      I definitely see your point, I just think its as achievable with 7-10k cars as it is with 15k cars, and if you're buying a 7k car it might be as worthwhile running it into the ground over 7 years as swapping it for a 2k loss after 2 years, depending on your preferences.

      • +1

        Yes, sorry I wasn't clear. I actually started this strategy with a $500 Falcon :) And when I sold that for $500 a year later I got an Audi 100 for $1000, then sold for $800 a year later and got a $2000 Peugeot… till eventually, I got to the $15k-$20 level. Now I drive a 2015 Mondeo Platinum which I love. I don't like car loans in general. Did that once with a 2yr old Celica, and when I sold it still owed the bank $$. As for repairs, they seem to be pretty random. Maintenance is the main cost, especially tires and timing belts etc. But like you say, try to juggle rego/tires with cars… but when you buy/sell a car that needs tires it is reflected in the price, and buying tyres of my choice is always a big treat for me as it improves the cars ride so much. It is all fun and games if you like cars. Some people just hate all that stuff and are worried they get lemons… Another thing to watch out for is not to trust repair quotes, always google problems yourself, especially for brands like BMW, Peugeot, Mercedes, as quotes are super inflated and often there are very cheap repair options. Peugeot original info screens for instance often break and the dealer will quote$1K+ and they are available for under $100 and can be swapped in 5 minutes with minimal skills (youtube), just one example, Another one was a luxury car with a slow leak. Was quoted $500 for a pressure sensor, but internet suggested I purchase the $35 maintenance kit which swaps the rubber parts of it, and that was put in by the tire shop for free when I rotated the wheels!!

    • +1

      Don't forget stamp duty each time you buy a new 2nd hand car though. But I guess you could try and compensate for that by selling near the end of the rego expiry and purchasing cars with long rego's.

  • Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross with a 10 year warranty and 2 years road side assistance. The first few years have capped price servicing too. $28k will get you a demo 2021 model. They're great fun to drive, well designed and roomy enough for a family. 5 star ANCAP rating. Android Auto & Apple Car Play. Decent MPG for an SUV. Way better, safer and nippier than an ASX.

    https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2020-mitsubishi-ecl…

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