First post. Was browsing products for fixing up my car paint and came across this on special. People seem to like it from the reviews on the website. Ends tomorrow (Sunday 25th).
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound 450mL - $19.99 (Was $34.99) @ Supercheap Auto
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Yes. It's awesome.
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My Shiny Paint
@lovely: Random orbital buffer, cheap one will be fine but the cords get in the way. I might upgrade to a cordless soon. Also a shitload of microfibre towels.
Hit the car with the orbital for the actual cut, then buff off residue by hand with the towels.
@lovely: Also avoid getting compound on rubber/plastic trims & try avoiding seams & creases, its very hard to remove polish from those areas once it dries…
Yeah it's great stuff especially at this price. You'll be surprised at the gloss it will bring back.
Just make sure you buff car out of direct sunlight otherwise you'll ruin the car
Would this be able work well without a machine?
Yes. You will just have to work harder / longer.
That's what she said
HARDER
Longer
Would make a good song..
I'd get some but got enough car products left from when i had an expensive car
Depends on how bad your car is. If it's not to bad bit of elbow grease will work.
Any worse just use a machine
buy a $90 dual action polisher from eBay. I used one of them and it worked fine except being a bit noisy.
Wouldn't bother. Really needs a machine to do it right.
Just grab one of the Rockwell buffers from Supercheap when they're on sale. Pretty decent machine for the price.Yes but it's a night and day difference with / without a machine.
Get yourself a random orbital, they're hard to do damage with because of the pattern.
How does this compare to the Nu Finish polish?
NuFinish is very bad, it's full of silicone, highly NOT recommended;
This is a multi-grade cutting compound, not really the same thing, but still, worlds better.
Completely different product.
This mechanically scrubs off an outer layer of paint.
Nu Finish “polish” despite the name is more like a sealer that also provides a small amount of shine.
scrubs off an outer layer of paint.
A polish improves the optical clarity of clearcoat.
By removing a few microns of paint, correct.
@MasterScythe: Clearcoat or paint? They are not the same. If you see paint on your polishing pad you either have 1 stage paint or failing clearcoat
Clearcoat or paint? They are not the same.
They certainly are. One just has pigment in it.
I suggest you read the MSDS again.@MasterScythe: Bare metal > primer > basecoat (referred to as paint) > clearcoat.
We were talking about polishing layers. You only polish the clearcoat on modern 2 stage paint.
I'm unsure what the MSDS could possibly teach me about polishing a car.
To suggest clearcoat and basecoat are the same is ridiculous. They are not interchangeable, they have different properties (eg. hardeners and strengthener) and it isn't always true clearcoats are pigment free.
I stand by my experience that polishing does not
This mechanically scrubs off an outer layer of paint.
And if you do see evidence of colour transfer to your pads you should stop polishing immediately.
To suggest clearcoat and basecoat are the same is ridiculous.
Chemically; almost.
But in use? Nobody ever suggested that.We only suggested that they are both paint.
Stand by whatever you want, when you're a qualified painter, we can talk again.I'm unsure what the MSDS could possibly teach me about polishing a car.
Nothing about polishing, it'll just show you undeniably that chemically they're both identical, besides pigment.
You'll learn that they're both paint.
Add the hardener to whatever stage you're finishing at. Clearcoat isn't mandatory.Here's a free quick lesson:
When you're mixing paint, it's all clear and binder until you add pigment.
If Clearcoat isn't paint, by your definition, what is the middle stage in a tristage pearl?
The (not?) Paint is absolutely clear, only having solid pearl stirred in.Just because basecoat in a two stage system isn't activated, doesn't stop the final activated coat being paint.
What about when you're spraying a cheater-clear; 50% basecoat and 50% clear mixed, but both activated?
Is the paintjob I completed suddenly "50% paint" by your definition?You're defending points that nobody ever tried to argue.
Best of luck with whatever paint system you decide to learn.
@MasterScythe: Bud I don't need any lessons. If you are going to refer to clearcoat as paint to beginners asking polishing questions it's not only wrong but stupid. Good luck with what ever incorrect points you are trying to make. The terminology I used is 100% correct. Yours is misleading and confusing
Bud I don't need any lessons.
You do if you're going to be correct at any point.
The terminology I used is 100% correct.
In who's paint system?
Please link the literature, because while I'm only trained in 3 systems; Glasurit, Concept, and DuPont, in those 3 systems you're the one who's incorrect.Yours is misleading and confusing
To whom? Besides you?
Absolutely and certainly not to the Common-Joe type person.
Ok, ok ok, I'll be open minded, explain it to me.
BY YOUR DEFINITION -
Let me get this straight:If a "common Joe" customer went to a detailing shop, and paid for 'paint correction':
The common person would be expecting the shop to strip the clear, do something to the 'paint', then re clear it?If a salesman tells a "common Joe" customer "The paint is in perfect condition!":
The buyer isn't going to be shocked if the clear is failing, because the basecoat is fine?If you were working in a store, knowing the law prohibits the sale of spray paint to minors::
You would sell them limitless clearcoat?
Minors should be able to buy (legally) all the rattle cans of clear they want; it's not paint?If someone moderately keyed your car, but didn't hit primer, and you have "paint" covered by your insurance policy:
You would be 100% OK with your insurance not paying out?
They tell you "You only have paint protection, not clearcoat protection"?If you saw a sign that said "We only sell Auto paint" on a shop:
The "common Joe" customer would find it perfectly correct they need to go somewhere else for clear?If you were painting a car, and had applied base coat:
A "common Joe" asks you if you're painting the car; You would say you are no longer painting the car?
The painting is complete; You'd feel correct saying to someone "I finished painting the car"?If you saw a hotrod with large-flake glitter in the clear, but a flat base colour:
You would tell the owner, they do NOT have a "nice paintjob"?
You'd demand they said it had a boring flat paintjob, but a "nice clearcoat job"?I'm being serious!
In what industry, and to which customers, have you heard the common vernacular refer to paint by their layers, in regards to maintenance? Or repairs?
Have you ever had a customer complain?-Because you're not correct in the 3 most common paint systems language.
-You're not correct when a common customer visits a pro-detailing shop, and pays for 'paint correction'.
-You're not correct in the new\used dealership terminology, when advertising a car to a common customer.
-And you're not correct by a legal definition, in regards to selling paint to minors.So, seriously, to\with whom have you worked, who uses that terminology?
The only example I can think of, is when you're asking for TYPES of paint, within the paint system, when preparing TO paint; but that's INCREDIBLY niche.
Curious to know who you've spoken to who would be OK with the above examples?
Seriously.And by your definition, what is the pearl layer in a 3 stage paintjob?
Is it paint?
The liquid is purely clear.
It is literally* clearcoat; poured out of the clearcoat container when mixing.
But it's got no activator\hardener in it. And you mix solid glitter or pearl into it
If it's not paint, because it's clear, **what is it?Why do dealerships, who are open to legal repercussions, advertise "3 stage paint" (in both paint system definition, and as advertised by dealers)?
Shouldn't it be a "1 stage paint system with 2 stage clear system" in your rules?@MasterScythe: TL DR. Detailing terminology vs painting terminology. Meguiars is a detailing company. In detailing you educate people you are polishing clearcoat. Meguiars included If you tell people you are polishing paint, you could be setting them up for disaster. I'm not disputing clearcoat is paint. You're not incorrect but clearcoat is fair less misleading and isn't incorrect.
*edit. I am not trying to be a knob. If I have upset you in anyway. Have a good night. I'm moving on
Can anyone recommend a good DA polisher?
I see repco has 20% sale.
was thinking of the $103 Mechpro Blue Variable Speed Polisher 150mm paired with the meguirs cut and polish pads for $27 each.Thoughts?
Yes the Mechpro will do the job. This also comes with the cut and polish pads as well.
If you are not in a hurry, sometimes catalogue sales brings this to around $70- $75.
Don't know much about the mechpro but at that price I'm guessing you'll get your money worth which isn't much.
U should invest in something that gonna be good. Maybe look at getting this. Going by the reviews it's meant to be an awesome machine.
I was gonna buy it but I just borrow my mates types 😉
Thanks :-)
👍
I just couldn't justify myself paying $300+ for a machine I use maybe once a year. I went for the $90 eBay one and it worked fine.
Share the link
Go to eBay.com.au
Search using keyword dual action polisher
Never heard of the Apex polisher.. Looks like a chinese rip off.
If you're gonna spend that coin, better off with a Rupes/DAS and the like.
But seriously, for the once a year polisher, grab a Rockwell or Mechpro for $100~
Thanks for sharing, but I have seen a cheaper price at Repco recently.
MEGUIAR'S SCRATCH X 2.0 is actually better.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8OU5J6OSt0&ab_channel=Proje…I tried using the compound with a form pad to remove some light scratches, not very effective.
Might give scratch x with microfiber pad a try.
What would be a good pad to go with this compound for hand polishing? Wool pad? Microfibre? Foam? So many choices…
Isn't this more of a cutting compound to get through the deeper blemishes rather than a polish? You would use this and then use a polish?
Yeah that's what I meant, which pad would I use with this product?
Apply with a foam pad, then I just use a microfibre towel to remove (ensure towel is clean and dry).
You’re probably better off using toothpaste to be honest.
The main problem with toothpaste is that it is surprisingly hard to remove afterward.
Sorry that was a joke :) the product listed above would be useless to be honest
This is an alright product if you want a quick DIY job. If you actually want to see proper results and put the time in though, it’s best to look at a higher end compound.
There’s a world of difference between this, and something like the Scholl S20+ for example. With the Meguiars you’ll also want to finish with a polish, as the abrasive is quite aggressive on its own.
Would this be any good to use on my 4wd ute prior to selling, to get the paint looking good, to get rid of the scrub/rub marks and scratches/pin stripes from bush driving and tight tracks.
Not sure hobbyist detailers know this but this is more of glaze full of filler. Basically not really cutting and removing swirls but just filling them to give you a temporary swirl free surface
Whats the ingredient name of the filler? Good to know, thanks for sharing
No it's not. Do some homework before you comment.
Agree. Sunnyc needs to research. It does contain elements to aid the wiping down of the product which is apparently confused as fillers by those that don't do homework.
Yeah this is one me, the ultimate polish is a glaze. the ultimate compound is not.
I have used this without a machine to remove small scratches and blemishes. It the scratches catch your fingernails, you can't remove them with compound.
Overall it will polish your paint and will give it a new look. Give it a try they do work. It's a good price at this price.
I have faided paint on old Subaru 2009 (Parked outside all the time) Will this work?
Also is this Ryobi any good for the job
https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-one-18v-buffer-and-polishe…
Get yourself a dual action polisher, it’s far safer and more effective.
As for the compound, with this product you’ll need to follow up with a polish as well (the compound is quite aggressive on its own). When you take this into consideration there are better alternatives on the market. For the average person, an all-in-one compound and polish would be the better choice
Depends whether the clearcoat has been eroded away
This product only works by smoothing out the blemishes/imperfections in clearcoat. If its gone then this product won't be able to restore it back
Do this car need treatment with Compound or I can just go with Polishing and waxing???
its 2013 Holden Cruze.cant tell from that far
2013 Holden Cruze
Don't overcapitalise the cruze by using this $20 product.
This or Nikka 12?
Anybody actually used this to bring back faded paint jobs?