SAA Certified︱*Certified Number: SAA-190519-EA. Compliance Standards: AS/NZS 3112:2017, AS/NZS 3100:2017 Inc A1, AS/NZS 60950.1:2015.
2 USB Ports︱* Charge your mobile devices without bulky power adaptors. These ports are covered to prevent dust accumulation.
Double Powerpoint︱*This Australian switched dual 3 pin Socket has individual On/Off switches to turn off devices when not in use. It provides a nominal voltage of 250 volts at a maximum of 10 amps.
USB Applications︱*USB socket is suitable for charging most IOS, Android, Windows Phone or tablets.
Product Size︱*118mm(W)72mm(H)35mm(D). Mounting Centre : 84mm.
Gerintech Double Powerpoint with 2 USB Ports $12.99 (Was $19.99) + Delivery ($0 with Prime/ $39 Spend) @ Amazon AU
![](https://files.ozbargain.com.au/g/38.jpg)
Last edited 08/09/2020 - 12:24 by 1 other user
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See you on an episode of ‘Stupid deaths’ :)
Does anyone know if you can get a qc3/similar version of this somewhere
these are ok, have a few installed and ordered two more.
Just note that the screws are thicker gauge than standard C plate screws.
I retapped the thread on the c plates with an M4 and now they fit fine.
The alignment of the holes is also slightly out but that is easily fixed.Not a critisism, just an observation… but I love the conflicting & double-standard comments between certain deals here :) One deal gets filled with 'OMG, it isn't "Australian Standard" certified so it's sure to burn your house down' type comments when the chances of that are pretty low yet then there's deals like this with comments explaining how easy it is to DIY install stuff which by law is illegal let alone potentially lethal. Again, just an interesting observation.
Electrician here, tried one of these and nolonger use it - don't trust the usb output (had some weird behaviour with mine). My advice would be to get a decent plug pack with 2-5 outlets as are on ozb regularly. Blitzwolf and orico are what I use, there are probably better..
You can get this style outlet with usb where the usb module is decent quality (well what I would 'trust') but won't name brands…
Can you elaborate on the weird behaviour? Very ambiguous.
My guess is that the touchscreen became erratic which would be caused by an (electrically) noisy charger output. Any other guesses? :)
Correct, dirty output.. and overcharging
this is a helpful post to me. Could I um… tempt you to name brands?
Generally speaking I would stick with reputable brands. Clipsal, HPM, Legrand - they are expensive though. Ultimately they use a double outlet with a centre position switch option, the usb module goes into that switch/mech position, generally this type of unit means the actual power supply for the usb outlets is independent of the outlet, and therefore from what I've seen are better quality as space restrictions are not so tight (also better if there is a failure), is also easier to install for this reason and means also it can be correctly protected if required (by an insulating shroud).
nice, thanks for that. Despite the expectation that the devices I'd charge are cheap and simple, I think if it's worth putting these powerpoints in it's worth spending few more bucks.
Thank you for offering your professional opinion. It's good to see the viewpoint of someone who can speak from experience about something they know well.
Have been looking at getting some of these, would clipsal be the suggested ones to use. They are very expensive though.
I would have no hesitation installing clipsal, it's a trusted brand in the industry and one would expect it to be of decent, consistent quality (clipsal are owned by schneider now, schneider are huge).
Clipsal make great hardware.
Similar to my preference, but for slightly different reasons - how often has the Australian standard for electrical outlets changed? Not very often. The last one that anyone would have noticed is the insulated live and neutral pins. That was 15 years ago and even then it didn't mean you can't still plug in your 40 year old lamp that's the same as the day you bought it. Does your 5 year old phone charger still work with your current phone? How about your 10 year old one or your 15 year old one?
Phone charging industry standards (not national standards) change far faster than those for your electrical outlets. Get yourself a plug pack that'll work in any domestic electrical outlet in Australia. Don't tie yourself to something that only works in one place and that might not meet your requirements in a few years.
Phone charging industry standards (not national standards) change far faster than those for your electrical outlets.
Lowest-common-denominator USB charging (i.e. BC 1.0/plain 5V) has officially been around for 13 years. Any USB device from 2007 that adheres to the USB BC charging spec will still charge fine with a 2020 Type-C charger. The good thing about industry standards is that lots of them maintain backwards compatibility as long as it's technically feasible. Seeing as there's no technical reason to drop 5V charging support so far (it's the default charging output if your device doesn't perform PD negotiation), I'd bet it will still work for easily the next decade at least.
Don't tie yourself to something that only works in one place and that might not meet your requirements in a few years.
I'd be more surprised if the socket lasts ten years. ;)
"Works" and "works as well" aren't the same though. 2.5W was the norm for the standard charging power back then. The QC4+ standard was ratified a few years ago and devices expecting to be able to charge at 27W will only become more common.
Like I said, don't tie yourself to something that restricts you.
"Works" and "works as well" aren't the same though.
If you're in need of fast charging, then of course you'd buy a dedicated fast charger.
But not everyone needs fast charging. For example, people who charge their phone overnight next to their bedside would see no benefit from a 1 hour charge since their phone will be sitting there for the next 7 hours. There might be a Bluetooth speaker in the kitchen that's plugged in so it's always running, or a tablet in the living room that's always being recharged after each use. For scenarios like those, a 2.1A charger like this would be fine.
Like I said, don't tie yourself to something that restricts you.
I say don't go chasing specs. Using what does the job is good enough, no need to keep upgrading chargers if you're not going to see much benefit from it.
If you do actually need to recharge your phone, tablet, or speaker in 45 minutes, then by all means get the latest chargers that may be able to do it. But if you don't, then there's no need to waste money and possibly reduce battery lifespan.
I got a clipsal one done by electrician during my build. It's good as it's hidden in my pantry so charging happens there away from the main action.
Nothing in my bedroom though. Maybe I will get another clipsal for the bed room. $50 or so. Not sure about installation costs yet.
I would love a wall plate with 4 USBC plugs, no 240v.
These seem like a complete waste in 2020 if you're gonna pay for an electrician to come and install it.
Agreed, no usb c modules available currently (clipsal do one in iconic but the iconic mechs are a pain, not separate), you could achieve this easily with the usb outlets that go into a switch position, and could in theory have up to the number of switch spaces on said plate presuming you could stuff them in the wall safely.
I suggest to clients to get a decent plugpack if for home use, have put this style charger in a number of airbnb's and cafe's, naturally we go brands we know and trust (and will deal with warranty claims!)
Clipsal do a 3 port one, check this out their iconic range
https://www.sparkydirect.com.au/p/3043HSUSBVW/clipsal-iconic…
I am not sure if that is just for the skin or if it includes the 3 usb points.
2.1A is quite weak no? I wish they would provide one with full 100W capabilities.
Think twice before you plug in your expensive smartphone / tablet to a $12 power socket. These cheap sockets usually have far less protection (surge protection, power regulation, overcharge protection etc..) you get from even a relatively inexpensive OEM charger. I never use these type of wall sockets for charging any of my devices.
This is an enlightening video for anyone thinking of installing these kinds of power points. Not saying that the product in this deal is similar but…sometimes cheap is for a reason.
I knew this would be Big Clive. He's the Lock Picking Lawyer of electrical devices. :)
My other favourite is AvE. Very entertaining!
How much does usually electricians charge to install powerpoints and downlights?
too many variables to be able to give any figure.. unless your after purely an hourly rate which could be anywhere from $70-110 p/h, call out costs may also be factored in (or minimum charge/hours). Is the circuit in question being modified, is it RCD protected, is there earthing in the existing circuit etc etc
I've literally spent a day installing one outlet as the clients didn't care the cost, but needed it in a particularly difficult location.. that makes one outlet near $800.
A 'couple of downlights' that need to go into a roof with no access, and existing wiring needing replacing due to being old and unearthed, meas pulling the roof off, potentially the whole roof, rewiring from switchboard (that probably needs work too, who knows that board could be in a difficult location with a bank of other swbs in a random spot with no relation to the unit your working on).. the variables are never ending.
"unearthed downlights"
Sorry mate, but that doesn't make sense to me. I'm yet to see a downlight with an earth. What am I missing? Or did you mean other wiring was unearthed?
irrespective of whether the downlight has an earthing pin, an earth must be present, as we generally install plug bases for downlights, technically anything can be plugged in to these outlets, or swapped down the track for a downight that does require earthing, same goes for batten holders. If a circuit is 'extended or modified' in any way we have to bring it up to standard. One for one swaps are OK (like for like).
In most cases it's just as easy to do a partial rewire on a circuit rather than just taking an earth to it, it's also forbidden to take an earth from another circuit, keeping in mind once this is all done it needs to be rcd protected if it's not already protected to current standard at the existing board.
Gu10 down light fittings all require earthing.
@ashpete02: Yes fair enough, didn't think of that. So it could be cheaper to have them hardwired instead.
@RubenM: No, 5.4.3 of as3000 States,
A protective earthing conductor, connected to a terminal or suitably insulated and enclosed, shall be provided at every lighting point, including transformers supplying ELV lighting systems.
USB C?
Nice campaign… but when the licensed electrician does such dodgy work causing circuits to trip and wiring to overheat it's difficult to put a lot of faith in this advice.
I'm not advising anyone on what they choose to do or don't do - just highlighting there are consequences and risks associated with your endeavors to try and save a buck. It's not about people's perception of how simple a task it may seem, it is still illegal and will potentially injure or kill you or someone else, not to mention the financial loss of insurance not covering you in the event of fire etc.. With most things in life, you don't know what you don't know and in the case of electrical works it's all too important not to assume that it's just a matter of matching colors of wires to terminals to change a powerpoint. I have been a witness to some of the most horrifying, life changing injuries as a result of electric shocks and near misses to have a very healthy respect for something you cannot see, smell or hear.
Absolutely… but it also pays not to put all your faith in a licensed tradie either!
@SteveAndBelle: If you're argument is based on a bad experience then it's not a very strong one. An electrical license is not just a bit of administrative paperwork and it's certainly not for life either. Any breaches of the electrical standards can result in loss of license, and criminal charges. That tends to keep peeps on their toes and weed out the subpar operators.
Don't do your research to safely complete this five minute job yourself - pay one of our tradespeople an exorbitant fee to do it for you!
This message brought to you by the the Electrical Trades Union.
(Not recommending people do all of their own electrical work, but please don't call a sparkie to change your lightbulbs)
but please don't call a sparkie to change your lightbulbs
But what if I fall off a ladder?
What if I accidentally stick a fork into the socket?
I don't have the necessary ladder certification nor a fork operating license.
And the ‘Cabal’ they paid off to create draconian laws.
Isn't it better to wait a few months for USB and USB C sockets to come down in price and install those instead. Seems a waste of.money to install one of these imo.
Be aware that USB-A as a charging interface is already a bit long in the tooth. These ports will likely be obsolete within 5-10 years and might look a bit silly all over your house.
Right on the money with that, not worth getting the sparky in when you can future proof yourself.
There's still plenty of stuff with mini USB being produced, so infuriating! Even micro USB needs to die. No idea why Goole are using it over USB C.
There's still plenty of stuff with mini USB being produced, so infuriating!
I bought a Garmin Rino 750 2 years ago. It was released in 2016… and it had a mini USB port. All my previous garmins had mini USB as well. No idea why they're so backwards.
I then bought a Garmin Edge 830 which was released mid 2019. They finally changed the port!
It had a micro USB port.
They then released the Edge 1030 in June 2020. It too has a micro USB port.
Sigh, Garmin.
Thanks OP
Got 4 :DNot really worth installing into a wall ports that are already dated. USB-C with PD or forget it.
No B28 no deal.
No NFC no deal.
no headphone jack. Deal breaker.
found some oddly similar ones at Aliexpress (albeit for about $3 more) in case anyone wants to risk it ;)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000401755113.htmlThe same ones are on hidollar.com.au for less money.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/264826268160
10 for $94 delivered. Don't forget that you can now get 2% cashback, bringing it down to just over $9.20 each.
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@dcash:
I was not really thinking when I posted that.
The problem was with one RCD protecting multiple MCBs. If you turn off one MCB, and while working on that circuit touch neutral to ground, the RCD trips. The solution is to have individual RCBOs.
If the light switch was dual-pole, that would solve your problem with tripping RCD, but you really ought to turn the whole circuit off. Deliberately tripping the RCD at the start would save you one walk to the fuse box :-)