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Ridge Ryder 12V 20 Amp DC-DC Battery Charger $98.99 (Was $194.99) @ Supercheap Auto

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Ridge Ryder 12V 20 Amp DC-DC Battery Charger $98.99 (Was $194.99) @ Supercheap Auto
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hitman48 on 27/04/2020 - 11:30 supercheapauto.com.au (954 clicks)
Last edited 27/04/2020 - 13:07 by 1 other user

A Ridge Ryder DC-DC Charger is the perfect companion for the camper and traveller with a dual battery set-up when you don’t have access to mains power. This unit is capable of voltage-boosting DC power sources such as your alternator to ensure that you get the best rate of flow into your secondary battery, keeping it topped up on the drive for when you need it. Featuring individual charging profiles based on the chemistry of your battery, you're ensuring you get the longest lifespan possible without having to plug into a standard charger.

This unit can be connected indefinitely, so once you're connected you can set it and forget it. Installation is easy, and reverse polarity, surge, and over current protection means you and your batteries are safe from harm. Suitable for most common battery types, this 20 Amp DC-DC battery charger represents a great option for the outdoors person looking for an on-the-go charging solution.

Features
Ideal way to charge your secondary camper, caravan, or portable battery packs while driving
Compatible with GEL, Calcium, AGM and Standard Lead Acid Batteries
Short circuit & reverse polarity protection keeps you and your batteries safe from accidental misconnection
Leave connected indefinitely – no risk of overcharging
Features individual battery profiles to ensure you get the perfect charge for your specific type
Helps extend the life of secondary batteries, and prevent primary batteries being chewed up by hungry accessories

Sports & Outdoors Battery Charger Ridge Ryder

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closed Comments

  • [Deactivated] on 27/04/2020 - 11:40

    How do you wire these things into the car battery?

    • codinghelloworld on 27/04/2020 - 11:47

      I just watched a youtube video, so I think you need a second battery which is connected with this device, and this device connect to the main 12v battery. So technically, the main and the secondary battery will get charged when you drive. And when you not drive for long time, the main battery get discharged and flat, the second battery will act as a backup to kick off the main battery.

      • hitman48 on 27/04/2020 - 11:51
        +1

        so how it works is it connect from your first battery to your second one , when your first one is fully charged it will start charging the second battery . you want all your camping gear like fridge attached to the second battery so when you camping it seperates the 2 batteries so all your gear will only drain your second battery, so your car battery always stay full so you can always start your car

        • codinghelloworld on 27/04/2020 - 11:53

          oh, so if I not drive and my main battery flat, can the second battery recharge my main battery?

          • hitman48 on 27/04/2020 - 11:56
            +1

            @codinghelloworld: no ,the purpose of this dcdc charger is to charge your second battery the best way possible and at its max capacity , and seperate both battery when you not driving so your main battery never drains when you camp and all urs 12v products it will only drain the second battery

  • edfoo on 27/04/2020 - 11:51

    Just a warning this DC-DC charger does not support modern cars with smart alternators.

    • urbancartel on 27/04/2020 - 11:59

      Thanks was wondering that - think I need a Redarc instead

      • 0jay on 27/04/2020 - 12:05
        +1

        Redarcs are exey as and while they're really good, you'll get something just as good for a lot less.

        Having said that Redarc's Aus made which is hard to beat.

        • urbancartel on 27/04/2020 - 12:11
          +1

          Thanks - yeah I've currently got a Redarc isolator charging the 2nd battery but I've been told that my vehicle has a smart alternator so is probably not charging properly… Will have to have an look what else is out there or wait for a sale on the Redarc 👍

          • burnstar on 27/04/2020 - 14:18
            +1

            @urbancartel: eBay 15% off your purchase, up to AU $300.00 off. Redemption code: POTENT15 Expires 03/05/20
            Just ordered a Redarc off SparesBox eBay shop

    • Gusper on 27/04/2020 - 12:37

      Just delete your shunt, cut the wire to your alternator.

    • 69 dollar dealz on 27/04/2020 - 14:12

      I have this model in my car with a smart alternator and it works fine

  • Loracks on 27/04/2020 - 14:33
    +1

    Also doesn't charge lifepo4 batteries. Can't believe how expensive DC-DC chargers are for lithium.

    • 0jay on 27/04/2020 - 15:54

      Depends what kind of lithium battery you have. Some have a BMS that'll allow for the use of regular charge units (provided they don't utilise pulse programs).

      • Loracks on 27/04/2020 - 17:43

        Lifepo4. And I've read that you can get away with uncontrolled power straight to the battery as it has a BMS and it'll charge regardless, but it's probably better to be safe than sorry.

        • 0jay on 27/04/2020 - 18:40

          So the manufacturer warranty will either cover you when charging with a non lithium charger or they wont. If they do then you're good to go.

          I've been using a regular DC to DC daily on a LiFePO battery for almost a year without problems.

          • Loracks on 27/04/2020 - 18:59

            @0jay: I guess the only thing is the bulk charges are different, no? And I've read it's not great to float charge them like an agm. Though I'm not an expert. And you probably can't change the settings on a regular charger. But if it works, it works.
            For the cost of some of these special dc-dc chargers I could get another 120AH of lifepo4

            • 0jay on 27/04/2020 - 19:15

              @Loracks: Whatever DC to DC you choose will list the various charge rates per chemistry. I have an IDC25 with Gel, AGM, Wet & Calcium. Bulk for AGM and Gel are very near to Lifpo. I don't recall the exact voltages but it's within tolerance. I didn't worry too much about float charges as I can switch the charger on and off from the wheel but I'm pretty sure the BMS takes care of that, they wouldn't warranty the unit under these conditions otherwise. You can chuck in a $40 coulometer that'll give you an accurate display of capacity and some can sound a beep when you reach a set point if you were worried about float.

              • Loracks on 27/04/2020 - 19:22

                @0jay: Cheers,
                I'll look into that one.

  • Tuba on 27/04/2020 - 16:20
    -1

    Pretty much unnecessary with modern AGMs anyway. A decent dual battery system and a flexi solar panel for when parked will do the job and save you money. Old AGMS needed the last bit of charge DC-DC provided, but modern versions fully charge off an alternator. Not to mention at 20amps this takes 5 hours to produce what an alt can in 1 hour. Now think about how you use the car in reality. If youre pumping out hours on a highway DC-DC will match the alt eventually, but right now, for free, you have more available amps in the alt for more typical drive an hour, get out, drive 2 hours then explore etc style of use of most 4WDs…

    Maybe modern variable voltage alt systems need it again.

    • Loracks on 27/04/2020 - 17:41

      What exactly are you saying?

      • Tuba on 27/04/2020 - 18:02

        Some things to consider…

        1.) Why do we want isolated dual battery systems, apart from increased capacity for the sake of extra capacity? Essentially, we isolate the aux from the main to save the main battery so each morning while we are remote, the cars main battery is untaxed for the purposes of a fridge etc. The car will start regardless of what happens to the fridges supply. Its also a handy back up if the main batt should die. Problem was with a simple two battery design people found the fridge still running, but the batteries couldnt start the car, especially diesels on cold mornings. Non isolated dual battery systems have existed in 4WDs for many decades to manage high current draw glow plugs and high compression diesels etc.

        2.) DC-DC predates variable rate alternators, they were marketed toward AGM batteries. Old AGMS needed higher voltage to fully charge, otherwise they would charge to about 95%. 5% matters when off grid. DC-DC could provide that slightly higher voltage at reduced amps. But modern AGMs will charge fully off an alternator so these are redundant for that purpose.

        3.) DC-DC is slower to charge anyway as they have about 1/5 the current at 20amps (depending on alt, and DCDC, but this one is 20amps). DCDC will turn off when engine is off to isolate the main to preserve its starting capability. Most people dont just drive and drive to make up the difference in time required to provide the same capacity, they get out to look at the waterfalls, or explore. An alt will present say 100amps to the batteries in 1 hour, while this will only present 20amps. It takes longer to recharge them.

        4.) DC-DC if it has multi stage charging, is often interrupted with stop starting.

        But to labour point 1, DC-DC also adds load to the main battery as that is the source of their 20 or 40 amps. The entire purpose of dual battery for offroading etc was to make sure that fridges etc didnt leave you with a flat starting battery 400 miles from civilisation. nbd sur,e the charger will not overtax the main battery as t will switch off, ie: no longer provide charge when voltage drops when engine is off. But cycles are battery life. DC-DC adds to the discharge cycles of the main batt, making it less reliable. Reliable starting being the function of isolating dual batteries.

        Variable rate alternators of modern 4WDs may effect this, I havent looked into them much. But my understanding is this isnt designed for better battery managements per se, its more about fuel reductions and emissions. Id be looking to counter the effect on the alt, and ummm bypass it.

        There was a time DC-DC made a technical difference with standard alts, but I preferred to gain capacity for less $$ by adding an additional Aux battery instead. 95% of an additional 110 amps, is better than 2x 5% or even 10% of 100amps.

        I guess in a camper trailer voltage drop might make DC-DC handy too. But then again, so does solar and it keeps ticking even when not connected to the vehicle main battery. I refer back to point 1.

        Not to mention my dual batteries are handy when combined with the high amperage demands of winching, DC-DC does not allow for that.

        Not to mention the whole getting something for nothing, the DCDC system, runs off the alts power anyway. The alt charges the main battery, and the DC-DC runs off it.

        All youre doing is adding an amperage choke to the charging system. If it added more storage, fine, it did once, but not anymore. But I can add an extra battery or two to a camper trailer and get far more benefit in terms of storage. Add on solar, and its self contained.

        • burnstar on 27/04/2020 - 18:28

          Without going into a super long explanation, a modern smart alternator does not always output a charging voltage (as you say for fuel / emissions reasons), it will charge the starter battery only when needed (low voltage, increase load like AC, seat heating etc) or on decelaration for energy recovery.

          Your VSR or basic DC-DC may not activate often enough due to not enough high voltage. The way some DC-DC chargers overcome this is via an ignition cable (e.g. Redarc BCDC1225D) to know when the car is on and will then draw a load causing the alternator to increase it's output which in turn will allow the house battery to charge. The DC-DC has all the smarts for low voltage cutoff and stop the charge when the house battery is full, the Redarc also has an MPPT and will prioritise solar charging.

          • Loracks on 27/04/2020 - 18:36

            @burnstar: So, smart alternators don't sense the drop in voltage of a starter battery if it's getting drained to charge an auxiliary battery?
            I really don't know if there's an option for what I need for a price I would care to pay.
            I've got a lifepo4 hooked up to an mppt and solar already, so I just wanted a dc-dc for the unlikely event of numerous rainy days and being off-grid. But those red-arcs are almost as much as the battery! A small generator is cheaper!

            • burnstar on 27/04/2020 - 20:01

              @Loracks: It's related to cut-in voltage, the supercheap DC-DC will only activate at 13.4v, your smart alternator may only output 12.x volts to just keep the main battery topped up. Your DC-DC charger will never flatten your starter battery enough for the smart alternator to kick in. (in theory if you turn your AC on and any other electrical loads the alternator will kick in to compensate)

              There are a lot of quality alternatives (Renogy / Victron etc) that are half the price of the Redarc (but twice the physical size). Supercheap also has one for $299 that will work.

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