Needed some enlightenment on this…
Is car wrap better than paint protection? or paint protection is better than a car wrap?
will the bird's poop destroy the car wrap if left unclean?
Just purchase a new car, was offer $1099 (after discount) for paint protection from the dealer. which is still relatively expensive compare to a detailer but they do offer 20 years of warranty on their product whihc most detailer only offer 7 or 10 years at most.
the plan is to keep it for 7-10 years
It's going to be just fine without any protection, unless paint or clear coat is faulty from the factory.
Do you mean all factory new car comes with clear coat?
@johndoe89: I've just asked Google Assistant and it told me that "95% of the automobiles sold in North America today have two stage paint, which means almost all cars being manufactured right now come from the factory with a clear coat."
@johndoe89: If not all, then nearly all cars come with that rubbish clear coat now. Get a rock chip and it starts lifting at the edges and peeling flakes off. And the paint underneath is always rubbish, like dull and powdery paint that has been exposed to the sun for four decades - and it's thin - so water gets through the paint fast, which begins rust.
This is why the most common place clear coat lifts, leaving large gaping ugly powdered paint, is the hood - it's the most common place for rock strikes.
Funny how they call it paint protection - because the clear coat was supposed to BE the paint protection. But as always, manufacturers saw a way to save $30 on a $40,000 car by putting the thinnest coat of rubbish paint they could find underneath, then making it look all glossy with a clear coat.
@johndoe89: Not all, usually 'solid' colours are just that(though not 'always') & are generally 2K, Metallics & PEARLS however, are what it called COB (Clear over Base) 2 or 3 Layer. The cars you see around that look like they're 'Sunburnt' with peeling Paint(usually the Clearcoat) & the flat/matte colour you see underneath is the Basecoat. In recent years, a bit of the Industry has switched over to Water based Paint (Waterborne) & it's the way it'll go. Personally I'm not a fan, but I guess it's a lot safer without the Isocyanates.
Wrap is more of a lifestyle choice than a set and forget protection product.
PS. 20 year "warranty" seems ludicrous and meaningless as does 7 year warranty. I have never seen any product last more than 2 years (and thats being generous with my assessment). They are gauranteeing that their thin layer of nano-whatever will last longer than car maker gaurantees their entire body corrosion protection system to last.
I'm amazed that there are people out there who believe in a paint protection from the stealership stuff.
Save your money and pay for professional polish and wax once a year if you are really keen on your car to look brand new for a long time.
Wrap is a good way to protect the paint, but nothing will survive leaving your car under direct sun with the bird poo on it near the coast.
Wrap is a good way to protect the paint, but nothing will survive leaving your car under direct sun with the bird poo on it near the coast.
I learnt that the hard way.
Don't buy paint protection from a dealer - they probably use about $50 of products which last weeks or months at best.
Neither. Unless it's going to be a classic, does it really matter if your car looks good as new after 10 years?
by the time i decided to sell the car at least the paint still looks good which help in the resell value.
Think about it a little more… You're already thinking about selling a car before you buy it, LOL! Why be concerned about resale value, when at the same time you're willing to throw thou$and$ away by buying a new car, when the moment you drive it home (in fact, the moment after you sign your name), it's worth thousands less.
In other words - why buy new? Because you enjoy all those manufacturer recalls? Maybe because you think it's safer than an older car (the husbands who bought those awful mustangs with seats that rip out of the floor in accidents, and that awful SUV in recent years that bursts into flames while waiting for traffic lights to change, burning their wife and children strapped in car seats alive) now thinks otherwise, believe me.
My parents bought a new Ford and it spent more time in the dealership in the first 12 months than it did in their garage - having the leaking and malfunctioning gearbox fixed multiple times, because the dealer was too cheap to just replace it. They just kept draining and refilling its oil until the warranty ran out - and now, it's your problem folks! Even they got the message after seven times in the workshop, only to make the same silly mistake and trade it in on ANOTHER new car!?
In 12 months your new car will look indistinguishable from nearly every other 12 month old car of that model - there just hasn't been enough time passed yet, to make any discernible difference in wear/use. So instead of getting what… $1500 more when you sell than others of the same model because you protected the paint… why not save THOUSANDS more TODAY, buying one that's 1, 2, 3, etc. years old TODAY.
Or, buy a classic someone has spent TENS OF THOUSANDS restoring, checking and tightening every nut by hand, expensive quality interior, etc. that they'll never get back either (because it sells for 1/2 to a 1/3 of their outlay) - and it will NEVER decrease in value - at worst stay the same, or slowly INCREASE.
e.g. Just in the last month I've seen 1970s rust buckets like XA, XB, XC Fords, Valiants, and Kingswoods which get rust in the most amazing of places - rubbish rust buckets - selling for $20,000 AND UP - unrestored - found in a barn, interiors completely destroyed by mice, accident damage. But one restored still sells for $30, $40k AFTER tens of thousands spent restoring it.
Do people buy new because they want a shiny new toy to get groceries or feel 'special' picking up the kids from school? Maybe they think it makes them look wealthy? Well some of the wealthiest, self-made people on the planet drive mundane, common, second hand cars. They realise nothing is more valuable than TIME - and that shiny toy steals TIME to pay for it. A shiny new toy that:
a) no-one else really cares that you drive - because they're all too busy also pretending to be wealthy by actually making themselves poorer, selling it again before it's repaid to buy another, probably whacking each one onto their home loan - so they're really still paying off car #1, 2, 3, 4… etc. TWENTY FIVE YEARS later - plus interest!
b) as above, you as the first buyer, are the one that wastes your time and money delivering the car for the scheduled servicing required to validate the warranty period, and/or paying to fix all the problems out of warranty for the next guy to benefit from - who buys it from you for 30/40/60% less in 1, 2, 4 years time. (Oops, there goes the other excuse of new car buyers: "I'm sick of paying to fix an old car." Yeah - because it's much better to pay to service and fix a newer one, whose parts cost 3x the parts of the older car.)
I bought a 1990 luxury car on ebay seven years ago for $10,000 with 15,000km on the clock. No, not 150,000 - FIFTEEN. It was not 70, 80, even 90% like new - it still WAS new. The (uppermost) blue book value at the time I purchased it, was $4500. The lower value was a couple of grand. So YES, they got more for it than the rest… But what did he have to do to achieve that? First, spend $70k (in today's adjusted equivalent) to buy it new, then keep it locked in his garage virtually unused, pay for warranty servicing, AND had to drive several OTHER cars for two decades to achieve a $2000 - ahem - 'gain'!
Point being: Unless you're going to better that effort, new car buyers may as well walk into the dealership, throw $15,000 on the floor, then go and fix what they already own (or buy something similar second hand that doesn't need as much work) - and they'll STILL be ahead - and get to spend 2 years of wages on something else - paying their home loan off 2 years earlier - or a deposit FOR a home loan - or - retire one year ealier and travel for a year! (Multiply that by every new car they don't buy.)
People are crazy.
People are crazy.
Uh huh.
why not save THOUSANDS more TODAY, buying one that's 1, 2, 3, etc. years old TODAY.
New cars - longer factory warranty, longer capped price servicing, better safety features, and in some cases are very close to the price of a 1yo one, once you account for stamp duty.
Stop preaching, you can believe in buying used all you want, but in many cases there is plenty of merit to buying a new car at the right price.
See these? I can do a brand new one for $78,990 drive away, including tray and paint. And I've still got room to move on that price.
See these? $76,990 drive away
@spackbace: But does your ones come stock, or are you matching the accessories too? Ie, are you talking apples to apples?
(Those accessories can cost a lot of money, with differences in quality)
@spackbace: LOL. Nope. There's zero merit to buying new (except perhaps to car salesmen) - and to obtain the temporary 'yay I have a new toy' factor (which has to be satisfied again every 3-4 years) - which can be equaled or bettered, by having something more interesting. (A restored classic maybe.) Or even a plain vanilla older car retrimmed, or even resprayed if so desired.
The exception of course are dirt cheap fixed repayment plans, like… Oh, I'll let this pompous windbag explain: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFTl2lR27KI
Oh, sure - ok - you picked an overpriced second hand dealer to make my 1 year example wrong. But BOTH a new AND used $80,000 car are a ridiculous waste - and it's exactly what I was referring to above: People squandering money they traded their days left alive for, only to throw thousands of dollars away every year to have that new toy they think impresses other people who don't actually care.
While I'm not talking about specific $80,000 one year old 4wds, we still know that second hand price won't be achieved in most cases, due to very fact you mentioned.
Heck, rev-head youths could buy a $25,000 unrestored - or $40,000 restored - imported classic Mustang on ebay. Or 4WD'ers, a tricked-out Landcruiser or Patrol (like on that outback TV show that airs on Fridays). The list of possibilities of cars that have ended their time of 'losing value' and come full circle to now remaining the same - or increasing in price - is, if not endless - at least too long to list.
How long will people keep that new $80k 4WD/car? 3 or 4 years is quite common… and 10 is nearly unheard of. If it's on a loan (most are), they sell, buy again, refinancing over and over, effectively still paying compound interest out on car #1 YEARS after it left their possession.
And in the case of a 4WD, luckily for most people, they rarely (or never) use them for their intended purpose… Most that do have real world experience, would prefer something that has already proven itself in the wild for a while. i.e. Something that has no death-inducing weak links - factory recalls to yet be discovered. (Like a broken $20 gearbox sensor that software detects and shuts down your engine 'for your safety', leaving you to stranded to die of thirst in the outback, when the car is perfectly capable of still driving without it).
There's zero merit to buying new
Have already proven 1 example where there is. Actually 2 different examples where you could have a brand new car for the same price, or cheaper, than a 1yo car.
The exception of course are dirt cheap fixed repayment plans
Again, already proven
Oh, sure - ok - you picked an overpriced second hand dealer to make my 1 year example wrong
I linked to the whole Carsales search, not just 1 dealer, and sorted price low-high, as any would-be purchaser would be. And the cheapest example of 1 of those was a private sale.
$80,000 car are a ridiculous waste
Yeah, tell that to every mining company that an LC70 is a waste of money. (just so you know, it's not)
While I'm not talking about specific $80,000 one year old 4wds, we still know that second hand price won't be achieved in most cases, due to very fact you mentioned
Epic back-pedal. Maybe your post needed fine print - "these baseless opinions are in fact just general advice and may not apply in every example"
How long will people keep that new $80k 4WD/car? 3 or 4 years is quite common… and 10 is nearly unheard of.
Umm again, LC70 owners go around the country, multiple times. They own these cars till they're over 200-300,000kms, and still demand good value.
And in the case of a 4WD, luckily for most people, they rarely (or never) use them for their intended purpose
LC70s are bought for their 4wd capabilities. Again, look to the minesites, underground. Look to country farms, and country towns. It's Toyota country out there.
Now please, I love the epic back-pedalling going on by someone trying to justify a general opinion on something they don't have real-world evidence on. Everything is just opinion and guesswork, where I just linked to real-world prices!
Have already proven 1 example where there is. Actually 2 different examples where
you could have a brand new car for the same price, or cheaper, than a 1yo car.
There's also no way of knowing what extras have been added to those cars. There has to be a reason why they're so expensive. It's either that the dealers expect most people to beat them down on price, modifications, something 'worse' about the latest model (like years ago when the Landcruiser came out with a 'worse' suspension), or… ?
And the cheapest example of 1 of those was a private sale.
Proving what I just said about the dealers are overpricing to compensate for… something.
Yeah, tell that to every mining company that an LC70 is a waste of money.
You mean the same mining companies - businesses - who get to claim reduction in value of their assets each year as a tax refundable business expense - where private owners don't. ;-)
Epic back-pedal.
Hardly.
a) Op never mentioned what his vehicle was.
b) I honestly - and quite logically - assumed because most people wouldn't be silly enough to waste their time vinyl-wrapping a 4WD the first brush against a bush would rip through - that it was a sedan/hatch - thus probably in the city too.
c) I was generally speaking about the fact of devaluation. Unless year 2, 3, 5, 10 old 4WDs are also only a couple of grand below year 0 sales? ;-p
The fact remains, whether it's 1, 2, 5, or 10 years - they lose tonnes of value. So you're basically admitting, perhaps without even realising it, the ONLY way for the original purchaser NOT to lose value, is to commit themselves for the rest of their lives, to updating every 12 months, LOL. Which is great if they have discovered the secret to eternal life and never want to retire on a pension.
and still demand good value
LC70s are bought for their 4wd capabilities. Again, look to…
… the fact the OP probably isn't vinyl wrapping an $80,000 4WD purchased for use in his family-owned mine. ;-D
One year was only ONE of the years I mentioned (which you then applied to $80,000 4WDs). I wonder if your pick-and-choose example holds true for all the other years I mentioned.
There's also no way of knowing what extras have been added to those cars.
Umm, yes there is, you simply click on the ads and read them and/or look at pics. Quite simple really.
It's either that the dealers
Again, first link had a private sale as the cheapest price.
Proving what I just said about the dealers are overpricing to compensate for… something.
Climb down off that horse, the cheapest dealer wasn't far off it. You realise a dealer has staff to pay, overheads etc? Private doesn't. Anyway, that's for a different discussion.
You mean the same mining companies - businesses - who get to claim reduction in value of their assets each year as a tax refundable business expense - where private owners don't. ;-)
Nice cherry-picking. As I said, the car is popular among 4wders, and those going into places you didn't even know were accessible by a vehicle.
The fact these utes are so popular with minesites, when they could just buy a $50k dual cab is proof of their reliability, which drives up resale.
I was generally speaking about the fact of devaluation.
Exactly and its a tired argument full of holes. I can find other examples to disprove you, I just couldn't be bothered, 2 was enough.
they lose tonnes of value.
If you buy a POS vehicle that's not desired on the used car market, then yes say hello to shit resale. But it's not a general blanket statement that you can say about everything, and you can't sit there and judge new car buyers like they have no idea.
The fact remains that your argument has serious holes in it, and you're being highly judgemental of OP and everyone who buys a new car just because, in your mind, they all lose some amazing amount of money, when in actual fact it's very easy to make the argument that you can buy a new vehicle and not lose a lot of money over the time you own it, and be covered by warranty and cheap servicing.
So please, get off the high horse and don't make blanket sweeping statements, being judgemental of others when really you have no clue what you're talking about. Just stop judging others' decisions, it's really a shit move.
@spackbace: You're a strange fellow… Uh… That's right - 'blanket statement' is the very definition of general statements, LOL. YOU said the private sale was the cheapest; I agreed proposing those dealers are probably more expensive than the private one because they (and the private guy and us) all know they'll expect people to beat them down on price. You said this right after your own evidence PROVED that would happen from MOST buyers - because they would say, "I can buy this new for another $2000."; but it's ME on some 'high horse' for agreeing with you!? LOL. Whatever. You sound like someone that's been in a customer service role far too long without a holiday.
If I'm cherry-picking - what is it called when after what you admit are my 'general sweeping statements', someone then selects a specific $80,000 4WD - which neither the OP or myself were referring to - and for only ONE of the depreciation years I mentioned - and after the Op already stated he purchased a $30k sunset orange vehicle? (I haven't seen many $80k 4WDs marked down to $30k, let alone one in sunset orange. That's probably the reason for the heavy discount, eh?) No - it's probably because, like everyone else in thread realises - it's 98% likely - it's a passenger car.
I've read several 'how I/how become wealthy books' and most state similar things about learning to overcome our desire for the next 'shiny new cat toy', or impress others - to think instead about the life-hours we have to put in to pay for it; what we could do with that money (or more time) instead; relax with our old/cheaper things to become genuinely wealthy instead of just portraying a false appearance of wealth (when no-one else really cares).
The clarity of that hit me, so I like to share it to maybe help others see it too.
You on the other hand take very generalised statements that are accurate in many cases, and force them into one very selective example where it doesn't apply - neither to the original post, nor my general comments - try and 'corral' general discussion into a tiny limited box you constructed, so you can then go: 'ah-ha gotcha!' and proceed to provoke someone into an argument through insults. (I saw the same thing beginning to occur in another thread with your electric car comments. So I stopped reading it.)
Well, I'm not participating. Feel free to have the last word (as folks that do this stuff always need to), do take a holiday, and I'll cya 'ron.
@GregMonarch: If no one purchased a NEW car, you wouldn't be able to buy a USED car because there would be none.
So, I'd say your merit logic fails at the first hurdle…
@MrBear: Actually - yours does. ;-) Because there will always be plenty of other people or businesses who still 'need' (desire) shiny new toys, to feel 'successful', 'wealthy', valid, or impress others who don't care.
Although someone might buy a car for $80k and maybe get $75k back next year (after paying for a month of adverts, avoiding scams, dealing with tyre-kickers…) - even if they paid cash - that car is NEVER an asset. (True assets make money, not lose or cost us money.) We all like to feel good about our choices. So they… well, lie to themselves: "I own an 80k asset!" That's just not true. they'll probably have to take ~$75 in a year, not the extremely hopeful $78k they list in the ad.
That 75k is not sitting in their high interest bank account, nor in shares earning dividends and capital gain, it's not even sitting in a bank account linked to their home loan (which at least would have reduced compound interest owed, effectively 'earning' them a few %) - they're actually losing a few grand at every 'trade up'.
If they tell themselves that's a good deal for the next 20 years, they'll not only lose ONE HUNDRED THOUSAND DOLLARS (20x $5000), they've also lost what that money could have MADE over 20 years instead: Like a deposit on an investment property, whose rent could have paid off its loan years ago, and is now adding hundreds of dollars to their weekly pension PLUS still own the property itself which has probably doubled in value. In fact as rent from property #1 exceeded loan repayments, they could have bought another, and another, and…
Whereas the guy below who owns his $1500 1970s Holden outright, or woman who owns a 1990s near-mint $8k Toyota still in great condition - both only pay for a couple of oil changes a year, tyres every 2-3, brake pads every 3 or 4, and maybe a $20 set of points for the 70s Holden every few years… while they lose… nothing. Oh, she might 'lose' a bit in value, but she OWNS it - it's costing her zip. And the Holden has stabilized, or is increasing in value.
That $2000 (probably more like $5000, but let's say $2k) the $80k buyer loses every year by 'trading up' - pays for the entire maintenance cost of the other two. Heck, they could even repaint and give their car a new engine every 5 years and still be ahead, while their 80k is making them money, paying off an investment property, helping them retire earlier and travel, buying steak instead of sausages - instead of dropping dead at work because they had to stay years longer to pay for those 20 years of shiny toys.
I'm not arguing, in fact I'm EMBARRASSED that I missed something so obvious for years. When shown, I was irritated at first - but soon realised that was just pride, and info is just that - information, words - not a personal attack.
@MrBear: Actually yours does as you based everyone on your original logic - now you are just changing your supposition to make your logic right.
And by the way, "Need" isn't "desire". "Want" is "desire".
@GregMonarch: Spackbace is a new car dealer, so they have a vested interest in keeping people buying new cars.
@GregMonarch: Heck, I would really hate to die of thirst stranded in the outback because of a dodgy $20 gearbox sensor. Sure glad I’ve still got my old, trusty bullet-proof HQ. And I’ve even drunk the water from the radiator a few times when lost (not broken down) in the bush. Try doing with that with a shiny new 21st Century $$$$ car. Give me an old car any day of the week. They don’t make ‘em like they used to, that’s for sure.
@Ozpit: LOL. I can't do that because mine has coolant. But yeah - you own it outright, it costs you nearly nothing to maintain, and your money isn't 'tied up' in your 'asset' (that isn't one). And if it's 'a rust bucket' you save on insurance because you only need insure the other guy.
Worse protection in an accident of course. But someone driving your car who is alert to what's happening around them - can avoid accidents someone less-aware gets trapped into because of their feeling of well-being due to being in a 'safer' car.
It probably costs you a couple of oil changes a year, a set of plugs & points every 2-5, tyres every 2-3, and so simple and so much open space under the hood to work on, that the most 17 year old could be taught what's needed to avoid the mechanic 8/10 times in one Saturday afternoon. Even changing its brake pads is dead easy - just pliers, a large screwdriver, and elbow grease as long as the wheel cylinders aren't stuck or leaking - which again they can be taught how to recognise in 30 seconds.
If someone hits it with a trolley, bumper bars are out bent of shape from hitting parking bollards, has surface rust - it's still worth… www.ebay.com.au/itm/233184148675
Give that a $2000 paint job, reco the engine with new rings and bearings $200, score the bore $0 if you have the tool and drill, gasket kit $120, new radiator + hoses $300, and clean then paint the engine with high temp paint $100 - turns it into: www.ebay.com.au/itm/173815492307
I'm not suggesting 'everyone' go this old though. Your's is an example of going to the lower-extreme. There are PLENTY of cars in GREAT condition, and with minimal difference in the oft-cited 'better safety'.
For example the first several cars here (which they usually overvalue): https://old.com.au/inventory/?listing_order=price&listing_or…
@spackbace: Just FYI cars on carsales generally do not sell for the listed price. There is usually a severe discount applied
See these?(carsales.com.au) I can do a brand new one for $78,990 drive away, including tray and paint. And I've still got room to move on that price.
See these?(carsales.com.au) $76,990 drive away
So your presumption is that people will negotiate at a dealership on a new car, but pay full listed price on a 2nd hand sale?
My strong instinct is that people will negotiate much harder on 2nd hand, and those carsales listed prices are nowhere near what the eventual sale price will be.
TLDR: carsales listings are not a good indication of the cheapest price you can potentially buy a second hand car. Just use it for a ceiling price, or a rough indicative (and even then it may not be that accurate)
By way of personal example (usual disclaimers apply: this is personal anecdote, YMMV, etc) I was buying a car, checked carsales, got lowest price, checked redbook, did all research, found lowest price at a dealer. Negotiated a price 24% lower than the lowest price listed on carsales (and way below redbook)
As a seller, checked carsales and redbook, listed my price matching the lowest price available on carsales. Only offers that I received in 3 weeks was at a 27% discount to the lowest available on carsales.
To be clear, I am not against people buying new cars, there are certainly benefits, and they need to weigh the pros and cons themselves.
Toyota, Subaru, Mazda… have all moved from 3 to 5 years recently.
If I bought a second hand Toyota camry hybrid, built 2018, it would be under warranty until 2021, and would have suffered minimal depreciation due to demand. If I bought a new Toyota hybrid it would be under warranty until 2024, it hasn't been driven AND it would only cost a few thousand more.
Likewise with my subaru. I could have bought a 2016 2nd hand old gen one for a bit less but it would be almost out of warranty (vs having 5 years), would need double the servicing, wouldn't have android auto or carplay, and possibly wouldn't have AEB or RAB either, and would feel far dated internally. they have high resale too (a relative bought one- god knows why- and paid not much less than if she'd bought new).
@Levathian: Not to mention the safety advancements of new generation vehicles.
CPS on Corolla (for example) went from $140 every 6m/10,000kms (for 3 yrs), to $175 every 12m/15,000kms (for 5yrs). So the new generation Corolla would be cheaper to maintain and have a longer warranty, as well as a whole new engine/gearbox with more safety features.
But there's always gonna be that 1 dik who has to get on the highest horse and complain about new car buyers. Used car salespeople love them, coz they go straight to the used car lot, and once they get the bill for stamp duty, don't realise they could've had brand new for the same price.
Can be hilarious as a new car salesperson, seeing what some people pay for used cars. Just have no idea.
@spackbace: I agree with Greg most, because, in general he is correct.
Cars depreciate greatly in the first 1-4 years, and that hasn't changed even with new technological advancements.
Though, I agree, sometimes it makes more sense to buy Brand New.
As one example, if I was going to spend a lot of money (>$50k), I would generally opt to get a new car, not even a Demo car just to have the satisfaction of money well spent (money spent on yourself, is not money wasted).
With that said, I'm actually poor. Though I did recently (Nov 2018) buy a new car.
How do you think I did:
$16,000
~140,000km's 2013
Nissan Navara D40-RX (Thailand model)
4x4, 2.5L Turbo diesel
Automatic (more drivers/easier resale)
5 seater
Short cab/ute sprayed with RhinoLining protection and with Sports rack
Towbar and big Bull bar with some pretty powerful LED lamps
New tyres with the factory high-rise lift/sidesteps
Pretty bland interior, no damage, with a Touchscreen DVD Player
I'm looking to do some upgrades to it:
- install fishing pole holders on the bullbar
- install an antenna (its non-existent atm/bad reception)
- install a Lithium battery pack, and have some Parking Dash cams fitted properly
- looking to upgrade centre console to an CarPlay/AndroidAuto thing, also one that could potentially use the already installed microphone for Phone calls, and maybe accept a Reverse Camera footage
- thinking of getting one roof rack for the front, adding a lip to the Sports Rack, and adding a (removable) Second Ute/rear rack to have a flat top to put large things like a Kayak etc.
- Getting a tonneau (it's naked at the moment)
- Perhaps giving it a lift/tyres/brake performance improvements later on
- Snorkel would be nice, but not sought after
….basically, a Apocalypse type of vehicle like the Krusty Canyonero
@spackbace: Bought my new van with 0% finance and only a thousand more than two year old used equivalent. Vans hold their value well.
"My parents bought a new Ford"
There's ya problem Lady! 🤣
@Micko179: LOL. If you mean Holden is better - they're BOTH terrible and have been for years. Nearly every time I see my mechanic there's 1 or 2 Hold-on Commonerbore or Fiord Flacid with a blown head at about 180-200,000km. In fact I can't think of a modern car I'd be 'glad' to buy new. It becomes more about appearance than quality - because there isn't any. If forced to, I'd probably lean a hair diameter toward Subaru. But that's not saying much. Maybe some of the hand-built cars… I forget the name now… Morgan is it?
@GregMonarch: Right, so don't buy a (NEW car) or a (USED car from any manufacturer that has any problems with any vehicle ever made) then. Got it, good advice sir!
<hops on bicycle and then thinks gregmonarch probably hates cyclists>
Resale after 10 years will have very little to do with whether there was paint protection.
Age and Kms are the main factors.
Of course if the paint is trashed the car is harder to sell. But that isn't going to be the case, whether you get paint protection or not.
How much is the car worth?
What color is it?
got it down to $31500 drive away. sunset Orange is the color..
Sounds like a Subaru xv to me.
I got mine bat pooped. Bad stuff :(
Bat poop is the worst. Next is cat vomit
achew
'scuse me
Yep. My previous car had a wrinkly damaged spot on the paint from bat poop
Only if you love the car, then ceramic coating. Mine is black so easy to see scratches. Subaru clear coats are not as hard as euro. So ceramic coating will resist it, what I used www.opticoat.com.au (it isnt cheap but cheaper than a wrap)
Had mine done, love it. Blast with hose, then leaf blower washing done in 5min. Had windshield done too, over 80kph in the rain I turn wipers off. Never have to wax the car, its like it permanently waxed. No scratches or swirl marks, had the car 8 months now.
You wash your car with a Leaf Blower? Please tell me it's Electric 🤔
@Bid Sniper: Bugger I was hoping it was 240v! So how does it go running soapy water through it? 🤣
+1 for ceramic coating. I like to keep my car clean and having this thing makes washing the car sooo much easier. Basically, save a lot of time and money. It should last for 7 years, but if I get 5 years out of it I will be happy.
I have my car opticoated and it makes a world of difference when it comes to cleaning it and keeping it shiny. Costs about $1000 for coat of the car and wheels. The stuff that the dealer tries to sell you is rubbish and a rip off. As soon as I told them i was getting it ceramic coated at a detailer, they offered me a "special one time discount"from 1500 down to 1000 for their inferior product.
As Bid Sniper was saying, blast with a pressure washer and leaf blower for a quick clean. Otherwise two bucket method and leaf blower and it will look brand new with no swirl marks. My wheels accumulate brake dust very quickly but a quick pressure spray removes most of it with no agitation needed.
If price is an issue, you can do it yourself too
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/coatings/products/ultim…
Did you talk to John Cadogan?
No but agree with him calling it the STI a dominatatrix
Is that the kia cerato gt?
YES!!! Sedan not the ugly hatch
@johndoe89: Lol - I had the same thoughts as you (I ordered the steel gray). Dealer paint protection is insanely overpriced…looking for alternatives now.
Edit: There is a "Kia GT Owner's Club" group on facebook. You can try asking there as well.
Wrap is for cars with crap paintwork.
Silica sealant is to protect and bring out the paintwork.
Cost is not really a factor since both will end up costing the same for good work.
Wrong. Wrap will fall off cars with crap paint! We deal with people every day who are told by their mates etc to get their Peeling/Sunburnt Boot/Bonnet/Roof wrapped & as soon as they're told they receive no Warranty they suddenly don't want to throw away $1k. The only people who don't care if it fails are Used Car Dealers as they won't own the Car in a week's time!
You're talking about defective paintwork. I'm talking about paintwork that mismatches or parts with completely different colour due to salvaging, or cheap unflattering enamel paint.
There's not substitute for repairing defects before moving forward. I'm in no way suggesting sticking something on to something that's peeling. That's…. not bright
No, I'm talking about cars with crap paint but Ok, So let's go along whilst you change your story, now you're saying a panel which is a different colour is now deemed 'crap' paint, even if said paint on these mysteriously mismatched panels is in perfect condition?! Pretty sure OP is CLEARLY talking about a new car…
@Micko179: Brings up context that the car is new and fails to see context that the car is new.
Crap paint for a new car would likely mean what? Peeling paint or cheap enamel option?
Edited - didn't like my passive response.
I did my own paint protection on my new car
Bought a quartz spray product, spray on and wipe off after a thorough clean. lasts 6 months
Protects against all dirt, UV, water etc
Looks better than brand new. Also, try not to park your car in the sun, wash it often and garage it. This is the best method for preserving the longevity of your paint
Neither will last 5 year, let alone 20 and I wouldn't recommend either.
Buy the car and take it to a detailer and get them to wax/seal it once a year, and recommend a cleaning product/routine to keep it clean.
If it's not parked in a garage then don't bother with either, and try to make sure you wash it every few weeks, with a good detail annually. If it is garaged I guess it's up to you, if you're talking clear wrap might as well go with the dealer option, or do it yourself as mentioned above. Personally, I'd go with a colour wrap and change the colour of the car every few years while also protecting the original paint, that's what I plan to do with our new car this year, and I'll be doing the wrap myself too to save money.
Seems like pretty expensive way just to protect the paint, Materials would be $800ish plus 1-2 days labour ($800) and then replacing it every 2 years.
Plus there's basically no suppliers in Australia that will supply warranty on car wrap materials. (Don't go a matte finish unless you want it to eat your paint)
The resale value of a car the is ‘a bit shinier’ than others in the market will probably not be more than saving the $1k up front and scoring interest in that $1k for 7-10 years. There are too many other factors which will define the overall resale value like kms or tyre condition.
Think about it. A $30k car will be worth what $6k in 10 years? You aren’t going to get $1k difference in price becuase he paint is extra nice.
Exactly
Bat/bird $h!t will destroy both. Keeping your car clean & Polishing it regularly(as much as once a month if you keep it outside in the Elements) will keep your paint in good condition. We had a huge problem with 3M WRAP years ago destroying Factory Paint on cars & 3M had to repair/repaint these Cars (some belonged to Nationwide Fleets). There is no such Wrap that will last longer than Paint (the longest you will get out of the most expensive Wrap on horizontal surfaces in direct Sun is about 3 years before it starts to fail).
Polishing your car once a month…you won't have much clear coat left after a few years. Waxing your car once every 3 months is sufficient
Rightio… Another 'knowledge'… Which part of 'POLISH' do you fail to understand?! I have several Muscle/collector & Show Cars with 25 year old paint that's still gleaming. Huh! Maybe it's all in your 'wrist action'?!
Life's too short mate, it's gonna get a scratch eventually..
I apply Meguair's Ultimate Fast Finish. Bird/bat shit dries and simply wipes away with almost no effort from the paintwork.
Bought a few cans from the deal below so I'm stocked up for quite some time:
The misinformation in here is astounding…
Do not polish or compound paint unless it needs it. e.g. scratches in the clear coat. Polishing and compounding REMOVE clear coat.
Keep the car washed, waxed and garaged, and if you're keen put a clear bra on the front bumper and hood. It will look better than most cars out there in 10 years.
Also ceramic coating, get that.
The misinformation in here is astounding…
Yes it is, including your misinformation! Polishing your car is TOTALLY different to cutting or compounding! Ever heard of the term 'Cut & polish'?! Polishing your car with Wax simply makes it Shiny, just like your knob! 🤣
There is no misinformation in my post…
Polishing will get fine scratches out. Compounding is much more abrasive and will get deeper scratches out.
Polishing is not waxing… Your lack of knowledge is quite evident mate, do some research for your next reply.
Yes knowledge… It's t@@ls like you that spread incorrect information to the people I loved getting in my Shop, I've been doing this for a living probably longer than you've been alive & paint Show Cars yet I need to do research?! Go back to Supercheap 🤣
@Micko179: Perhaps you should make a claim regarding what is wrong in my post instead of dodging. Your defensive attitude is quite telling as to your knowledge levels.
I see you're incapable of doing basic research on your own, hopefully you can read. Take a look here and report back when you have something useful to contribute.
@ozb9user: Like I said previously knowledge, go back to Supercheap. Facts are just that. Let's hope you win a lifetime supply of Condoms to prevent more accidents! 🤣
Don't you have to replace the wrap anyway as the glue can ruin the actual paint after a year or so…
I did lots and lots for research a couple of years ago, went with OptiCoat, not sure if it was the right decision but I am happy :)
Not sure on your skill level, but you can buy the ceramic coat kits from online and do it yourself. I bought the kit for $150 and done it on a weekend, my car looks absolutely stunning. Didn't have to pay 800 to get it done from the shop.
What kind of skill level are we talking about?
I-have-hand-washed-a-car level or I-laminated-my-textbook-at-school-without-bubbles level?
Paint protection is snake oil and car wrap will bake on if you continuously park it in the sun so removing it may actually be a nightmare.
Are you going to have the car for 20 years?