What a Decent Price Haggle? Toyota Corolla

Hi,

I was looking at new cars with my parents, and we set our eyes on the new carolla ascent sport which on our nearest Toyota dealers website was currently from $26,661 drive away (white) $27,136 (other colours) I was wandering what is a acceptable amount to negotiate on the price? The saesman said they can do $26950 for a coloured car, but I heard you can negotiate more? Thanks in advance!

Edit: sorry, it was a honest mistake, the prices I listed before was for manual, the price of a white auto is $28228 and coloured auto is $28695 (2019 model)

Update: we went to another dealership we wanted the white auto, which was $28228, we got it for $26180, with car mats throw in (worth $175) , it’s 7 years warrenty and 5 year cap price servicing (175$ Once a year) and we got the perfect car plate!

Reasons we were looking at this car, it retains its value really well, cheaper servicing fee, apparently it’s the second safest car in aust, it has auto brake, auto hold, it is self driving to an extent ( you can take your hands and feet off the wheel and accelerator on the freeway and it will drive itself) and i found the wheel to be really nice and it it accelerated and brakes nicely (as opposed to the 2017-18 model) and other feature regarding technology (reverses camera/gps/Siri ect.)…thanks everyone for responding to this post :)

closed Comments

                • @91rs: Seriously? Jees, educate yourself…

                  Hybrid:
                  Tare Mass - 1375kg
                  Kerb Mass - 1400kg

                  Standard:
                  Tare Mass - 1390kg
                  Kerb Mass - 1420kg

                  http://beta.redbook.com.au/compare/?ids=SPOT-ITM-515956,SPOT…

                  • @spackbace: According to the specs in the link the petrol engine is 53kw and 73kw total. I'm sure it's wrong so could you enlighten me as to the combined power & torque please? Even the Toyota site says 73kw.

                  • -2

                    @spackbace: Wow, how about that 15kgs lighter, must be the reduction in the block weight being the 1.8 vs the 2.0.
                    Its a corolla, why bother educating my self on the specs, I don't need to sell them and I am not going to ever be buying one.

  • +3

    For $27,136, why not pay a bit more and get a Mazda 3 SP25??

    • +1 Mazda3 over corolla. Buy now before the new model price jacking in July

    • Or VW golf

  • +4

    Pick a price, walk into a dealer and tell them you'll sign on the dotted line right now if they do it, or you'll walk if they don't. (Don't negotiate even a little bit)

    If they can't do it, no problem - Walk, add $500 to your price and head into the next dealer.

    If $27k is the normal drive away price and its not a brand new model or something in crazy demand, start that offer at $22k

    • $26,661 drive away (white) $27,136 (other colours)

      FWIW full RRP is $27,723, $28,186

      So they've taken about $1,000 off RRP, which on these cars leaves about $1k to play with.

      $6k off RRP? You wouldn't even begin negotiation lol you're asking for a 20% discount!

      • +1

        You might be surprised how much dealers have to play with, especially at the end fo the month/FY/year when they're low on targets or chasing numbers for massive brand incentives.

        I've negotiated 10-20% every new car I've bought in the last 5 years, including ~$40k off my last one.

        I said 5k off an imagined 27k RRP, which is less than 20%. It's a great starting point, especially off something in pretty low demand and high inventory.

        EDIT: This is just friendly advice, if you think I'm wrong no problem - Keep paying more and subsidising my car purchases.

        • +1

          You might be surprised how much dealers have to play with

          Toyota salesperson here…

          It's a great starting point

          When a salesperson knows there's very little in the car, it would be very hard to reach middle ground. We would only be able to come down $1k, you'd need to come up $4k.

          Or all it does it give readers misconceptions on how much there is to move on a new car, and they could go dealer to dealer hoping for that $22-23k mark, because they "read it on the internet".

        • Can u please give us a guide on how you to get 20% on a new car? Like a dialogue or something so we know what to say and when to say it.

          What happens if you go end of month and the salesperson already achieved his/her targets??

          • +6

            @Homr: If they've already achieved their targets, they may have a bonus scheme that becomes very lucrative as they reach over their target. Or they won't care for the sale and would rather go for margin or delay it for the following month- It really comes down to the dealer/brand/market etc.

            The dialogue I use is basically this - "Hi, I have X price I'm willing to pay for X car, if it works for you I don't need finance and I'll sign immediately - it'll be the easiest and fastest sale you've ever made. If you can't do it, no problem I'll be on my way and neither of our time is wasted"
            I've never received a real negative reaction - You're treating their time with respect, they may say sorry not a chance, then thanks no problem have a great day.

            They may ask for a credit card / deposit before they agree, so you don't take their price then immediately walk out and cross shop. It's also not something you can really do if you're still deciding, or you want to waste their time test driving etc.

            Remember that in a hostile negotiation (Where it doesn't matter what the other party thinks of you when you've completed the transaction) on an item that is straight cash value, you always want to know their bottom line is before you complete the deal. You getting told a quintesential no is the best way to find that out.

            The last time I did this, I was told "Okay but we can only do $250 (might have been $500 I forget) more than that price, you're not going to let this car go for $250 are you!"
            "I don't need this car, I drove here in a perfectly good one, you're not going to let this sale go for $250 are you?"

            It might be a bit harsh, but dealers aren't your friends.

            Should note - You won't get anywhere near 20% off a brand new model, or something in crazy high demand and you can't necessarily negotiate like this with a niche supplier with 1 dealer in a metro area, and it's best done on cars they have in stock or can deliver within the month, as they get their bonus/targets when the car is registered, not when you place an order.

          • @Homr: Step 1: Start with an over-priced vehicle.
            My neighbour got an Audi A4 "demo" with 100km on it for $60k. RRP was ~$87k.

            My other neighbour got $22k off his V8 Volvo SUV.

            My ex used to get 30% discount on Commodores but that was due to fleet volume.

            I got my Skoda for 20% off but it was a 2007 build in 2008. It was a manual and a hatch and in a solid colour. At the time everyone wanted a wagon & auto. If I'd wanted a 2008 plate wagon with DSG then I might have got 5-8%.

            Have a look at Commodore & Astra at the moment. The discount is crazy because they aren't popular.

  • +6

    A whopping $100 discount on a $27,000 car? Tell the dealer he's tighter than a nun's fanny and go buy second hand.

    • -3

      Second-hand?

      Would be the old model, way less features and a shitter drive.

      Or do you think that will somehow leverage a better deal? Coz it won't, you'll just show your car buying process is still in the research stage and you're not actually ready to buy.

      • +3

        "Shitter drive".

        S/he is buying a Corolla, not a Porsche.

        You can get the brand new Corolla for $27,000, or pick up a two-year-old model with 60,000km on the clock and save $10,000.

        They're after a cost saving. If they want to save substantially more than the $100 currently offered, that's the way to go.

        • -1

          Wow, news flash, used cars are cheaper! Who'd have thought it! Omg you need to write a book.

          Lol

          S/he is buying a Corolla, not a Porsche.

          New car has way more safety features, 5yrs warranty (not 1 on the 2yo car), and 12m/15,000km servicing capped at $175 for the first 4 (not $140 every 6m/10,000km for the first 6 on the old one).

          And some people like buying new. For the above points, as well as not buying someone else's old shitter, or an ex-rental.

          • +4

            @spackbace:

            Wow, news flash, used cars are cheaper! Who'd have thought it! Omg you need to write a book.

            Sarcasm doesn't seem necessary, buddy. Did you wake up on the wrong side of the bed this morning, or are you just a rude person generally?

            New car has way more safety features, 5yrs warranty (not 1 on the 2yo car), and 12m/15,000km servicing capped at $175 for the first 4 (not $140 every 6m/10,000km for the first 6 on the old one).

            You've bought a real fizzer if your Corolla expires after three years. And those servicing caps mean, what, $240 saved? Hardly a goldmine.

            And some people like buying new.

            No doubt. I agree with that, my comment was just a proposal.

            For the above points, as well as not buying someone else's old shitter, or an ex-rental.

            A two-year-old second-hand car isn't necessarily an "old shitter".

            • @RolandWaites: 60000km. Yeah. Great Deal. Likely need to have brakes, tires, wipers….replaced soon.
              My car has just got 59K and last service invoice has a note to replace brakes and tires next service.

              And then you still don't know how it was driven, accidents, if there are any other failures…..

              May not turn out as great a deal after all.

          • @spackbace: 2 year old car saving of 10k would be great if you're planning to keep it for prob 3 years till the warrantry runs out..

      • A second hand car wouldn't automatically be a "shitter drive". Would a brand new car then offer a "shitter drive" in about a year or two's time of ownership?

        I've had new and used cars, but none of the used car purchases were a shitter drive. Also, I foolishly purchased a Lancer brand new (God, I've never seen a blander or sadder car in my life). It was in fact a "shitter drive", which I sold it in about 3 years.

        Besides, it's not as if every model of every car is going to come out with way more features every year.

        • A second hand car wouldn't automatically be a "shitter drive".

          New car is on a whole new chassis, with an improved drive and upgraded engines and gearboxes.

          New car = better drive, therefore older model = shitter drive. Simple.

          • @spackbace: Engines and gearboxes aren't going to be upgraded every year for every model from every manufacturer.

            I know what you're trying to say, but used cars don't necessarily need to be all that old. I could buy a two year old used car with 20000KMs on the odometer that's hard to tell apart from new (assuming it's well kept).

            Cars are designed to run around for hundreds of thousands of kilometers, and are among the most amazing feats of engineering marvels. I don't think any reasonably modern car will turn to a "shitter drive" in two years.

            May be some of the purportedly premium, but realistically trash euro cars will turn into a money magnet, but even those won't start falling apart upto 3 years or so.

            • @aussieolfaction:

              Engines and gearboxes aren't going to be upgraded every year for every model from every manufacturer.

              Please don't suddenly generalise my comment. My comment was very clear in what it was referring to, as was the comment it replied to.

              The examples given are a brand new Corolla vs a 2yo one. The brand new one is in fact a whole new model, on all new architecture. That's the chassis, suspension, engine, gearboxes, safety features, the works. Practically nothing has been carried over.

              Don't randomly generalise to attempt to shoot down my comment. Jees how hard is it.

              • @spackbace:

                Don't randomly generalise to attempt to shoot down my comment. Jees how hard is it.

                No need for sarcasm, as another user pointed out previously. I also had pointed out that Engines and gearboxes aren't going to be upgraded every year for every model from every manufacturer. Which basically means that when these things are upgraded and a new model is released, that might in fact make an older model less desirable (far from a "shitter drive" though).

                Now you're actually stating that your statement was very specific, in that a two year old corolla is a "shitter drive" than a brand new one, and that it applies only to that example. This may be the case, but only if Toyota had made such humongous improvements to their chassis and gearbox that the older ones are automatically rendered a "shitter drive". I'd suspect the new gearboxes in a corolla is such a monumental upgrade, given the recent CVT recalls and all.

                The examples given are a brand new Corolla vs a 2yo one. The brand new one is in fact a whole new model, on all new architecture. That's the chassis, suspension, engine, gearboxes, safety features, the works. Practically nothing has been carried over.

                Sure, this is a good point and I'd admit this may be the case in this particular example. I was referring to that statement of used cars becoming "shitter drives" in 2 years, in general.

                • @aussieolfaction:

                  No need for sarcasm, as another user pointed out previously.

                  That statement wasn't sarcastic, I genuinely wondered how difficult it was to read and understand my comment for what it was, and not go off on a tangent like some 16yo English Lit student trying to over-analyse a Shakespearean story.

                  Would be the old model, way less features and a shitter drive.

                  "Shitter" - adjective, to be more shit. Actual value of just how shit it would be, is up to debate, however my comment stated "shitter".

                  But please, do go on.

  • not sure if it is relevant anymore maybe with inflation etc. but in August 2004 my uncle managed to negotiate a brand new Toyota Corolla Ascent Sport for $24,500 for me with matt and lights cover, metallic paints and also a full 91 tank, just had to wait for 5 weeks to be shipped from Japan, I hope you can do the same OP, good luck!

    • Old model Corolla Ascent Sport was regularly $23,990 drive away.

      New model doesn't have the manufacturer bonuses to allow for those sort of price points.

  • +2

    $4998?

    • -2

      That's how much I would pay since it's an auto.

  • +1

    You have better negotiating power when there's a new model on the way, when the car is selling poorly, or at the end of a quarterly cycle when the salesman needs to up their numbers.

    You can typically get 10% discount off the sticker price. The $100 he offered is a bit of an insult - he probably does not need your business right now - so be prepared to walk away and try again in a month or two.

    • +1

      On a prestige car trim level and colour can also make a huge difference. Not so much on the Corolla I imagine.

  • +2

    Two factors to consider

    • If there will be a wait on the car (e.g. because they don't have the colour you want on hand) then you lose a lot of negotiating power. Similarly, the Corolla was recently refreshed and well reviewed, if they're in high demand (which they probably are) then again you're not going to get sizable discounts because the dealer can just wait for someone else. A lot of the time, the great deals you hear about are for cars that are in stock that the dealer is having difficulty moving
    • You may have better luck negotiating for things that cost the dealer less to provide. For example, if you ask for the first year or two of servicing free, then you might be saving the full price of the service, but it doesn't cost as much for the dealer. Same sort of reasoning as why people get the mats etc. thrown in. You could also ask about free or reduced cost tinting (reduced cost relative to what you would pay if you went to a third party, not reduced compared to their inflated rate). All of these things will be worth more to you than it costs the dealer to provide

    BTW for reference, I was able to get ~$1000 off a Honda Jazz, which is at the bottom of the market so the margins are thin and it was in demand and needed to be ordered in, but that $1000 was comprised mainly of waiving the $500 charge for the colour and $~500 for the first year of servicing, so they were able to save me $1000 without it costing them nearly that much

    • are for cars that are in stock that the dealer is having difficulty moving

      This.

      Same sort of reasoning as why people get the mats etc. thrown in.

      I guess if you are trying to go authentic look having mats could be good (esp. on prestige) but you can get good mats for like $15 or so….
      Why would anybody care?

  • +1

    Negotiating is so yesteryear.

    As a few posters have already advised - tell them the car,colour,specs,add-ons you want, tell them your price that you are happy with, and if they say yes or come close to it - sign the contract, hand over your credit card and place $2,000 (or whatever maximum amount they allow you to do so without any credit card fees) non-refundable deposit.

  • +1

    Are there any accessories you want in?

    In the past I've started by getting the price down as low as i can get them to go, and then bargaining with them about add-ons. Like, the last car I got $2k off the base model and then said i really wanted to go a bit lower, if you can throw in free window tinting and tow bar i'll sign. Usually they'll throw extras in to seal the deal.

    Things to consider (not exhaustive):
    -paint protection
    -gps/head unit upgrade
    -tinting
    -fabric protection
    -sensors (front/rear/side distance sensors)
    -park assist
    -reverse camera

    • i thought paint protection was a joke? i'm sure all new cars have protected paint, also with fabric protection

  • +1

    With Toyota, if you are going through their finance you can also haggle the interest rate. Managed to get theirs down to 4% when they were offering 7% four years back.

    • four years back.

      FWIW finance regulations have changed, same as the banks, and there's not as much movement in the interest rate.

      There is movement though

  • that is a lot of money for a corolla. Drop the 90's pricing $19,990 drive away.

  • -4

    Get a fake I.d, ask for test drive, never come back. Cheapest deal ever!

    • -1

      Not sure why downvoted…

      • Probably because obvious answers aren't as popular as dense questions.

  • Funny story on this topic,
    Saw a car carrier truck going the other way on the highway last Wednesday, all the cars on the back had the drivers window down. It was raining at the time.

  • +1

    I have had success by gathering together a list of email addresses for all dealers and sending them a BCC email stating the model, colour and accessories I’m after and that I’m ready to buy this week.

    Keep in mind that the Internet has leveled the playing field for many regional dealerships who are often willing to come to the party with a favourable price.

    In my case I sent the email to dealers in QLD, NSW and VIC. The winning dealer ended up being in Wollongong and I picked up the car about a week later once it was off the ship and delivered to the dealer.

    • prob good idea, would take maybe an hour to do at most and just wait a few days- probelm is when they call you and say oh yes blah blah

  • $100? tell em he's dreaming

  • Dealerships has ship n debit. General rule is get 10%-12% off.

  • Thanks for all the advice, I have yet to buy the car, I will consider everything that you guys have commented!

    • +1

      Let us know how much you end up paying.

  • +1

    I can't work out why people pay this kind of money for a Toyota Corolla. I got a Skoda Octavia with leather seats and dual zone climate control for $28,990. I know the re-sale will be garbage but 5 year warranty (already used once for a piece of plastic that was chipping slightly on the gear stick) and 2.5% interest.

    I would definitely pony up the extra to have a significantly nicer car to drive around in. But then again I work in the city so I spend a lot of time driving.

    • I know the re-sale will be garbage
      piece of plastic that was chipping slightly on the gear stick

      Soooo… you still wonder why people go the 'tried and tested' option?

      • I would estimate that a Toyota is more reliable and more well known than a Skoda (even as I type this, Chrome knows the word Toyota, but not Skoda), but anecdotally, our Skoda has been solid for the three years we've owned it for so far (apart from a flat battery).

        If I had to choose between a Corolla with a 5 year warranty or my Skoda with a 5 year warranty, I'd go the Skoda. But I don't want to argue with you - you would know a lot more about cars as you work in the industry.

        Now I'm curious, what are your thoughts on Skodas?

        • Now I'm curious, what are your thoughts on Skodas?

          Honestly I don't have 1, haven't had that much experience with the brand

        • Is your Skoda a petrol or dieselgate model?

  • you can usually get about 15000 dollarz off.

  • At least op isnt asking for a friend

  • Best to shop near the end of the month where they are trying to hit their bonus figures and/or targets, much more inclined to discount and in some cases they will sell at a loss in order to achieve a dealership bonus, of course differs from dealer to dealer but this is my general rule of thumb.

    Offer on the spot, much more enticing if you do have your funds ready to go.

Login or Join to leave a comment