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Nulon 5W-30 Full Synthetic Engine Oil 5L $32, Valvoline XLD Premium 15W-40 5L $11.99 @ Autobarn

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Valvoline XLD Premium 15W-40 $11.99

Suitable for most engines manufactured prior to and including 2004.
XLD Premium 15W-40 is a high quality SAE 15W-40 engine oil that has been blended with the highest quality basestocks to meet API SL/CF specifications. It provides optimum oil film strength that prolongs the life of the engine by reducing friction & wear.

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  • +3

    Good price (Nulon 5W-30 Full Synthetic Engine Oil 5L $32)

    I previously bought it for $29 @ Autobarn

    Still have a bottle that for the next oil change.

    Cheapest ever was $25 for 5L at Costco.

    • This is the "Long life" one…IIRC the one at Costco is different.

      • +1

        Name is different but the specs looks identical to the Costco one..

        https://www.nulon.com.au/products/full-synthetic-engine-oils…

        https://www.nulon.com.au/products/nulon-protect-range/protec…

        They prob put a different name on it so SCA/Repco/Autobarn don't complain that Costco is selling/buying them cheaper.

        • The costco one appears to have this:

          This Full Synthetic 5W-30 Premium Engine Oil has added Molybdenum Dithiocarbamate (Moly DTc) to give you additional peace of mind performance. Moly DTc is proven to dramatically reduce friction and provide increased engine wear protection from cold start to extreme temperatures, giving you additional benefits over standard engine oil additives alone.

          The other makes no mention of Moly DTc.

          Would it make a significant difference? I have no idea

          • +1

            @Ten: If anything the Costco would be better.

        • The Long Life has GM Dexos 'branding' which suggests to me that Nulon would be paying a royalty to GM for the privilege.
          The Costco product has Moly DTc which may or may not be present in the Long Life product.

  • +1

    Ya need the Euro version…

    • Not everyone needs the Euro version, i.e. low saps oil.

      • -1

        I bet cars needing low saps will be money pits the moment warranty expires.

        • +1

          Euro specification oils are usually low saps for Diesels and long life, usually both.

          Long Life is sometimes up to 30,000km.

          With European cars, I find it's not usually the engine that needs repairs but all the bloody sensors and parts around the engine that goes wrong. Sometimes too complex.

        • +1

          yep, my vw diesel hit 100,000km and it started falling to bits.

          101,000km my diesel seal went ($2200 from local mechanic), then at 107,000 my water pump went ($1900). Then I was up for as DSG service at 120,000 which was $4k from VW or $2700 from the local vw specialist.

          Needless to say, i sold it pretty quick.

          Redbook and Carsales both indicated it was worth about $13-$15K. I sold it for $6k as nobody would bloody buy it.

          • @butter: What car was it?

            DSG service isn't be that much.

            I got my Golf GTI DSG service for around $600… first time at the dealer and last time at a VW Specialist.

            I'm due for my 3rd DSG Service soon (180km).

            • @JimB: Maybe he meant it needed a mechatronics replacement? I know an S5 service is about $2k through Audi or $1k independent so $4k is a tad excessive for a VW haha.

          • @butter: my water pump went ($1900).

            holy wtf

  • Can these be kept forever?

    • Are you hoping there going to be a collectable?

      • +2

        Like a fine wine

    • I'm under the impression mineral oil shelf life is a few years and group III synthetics around 5 years.

  • +6

    These oil offers keep coming!

    If over the last month you haven't already got the next 2-3 years of oil for your car already on your shelf, you're either buying another car or not a true ozbargainer!

    • +1

      hahahaha, yes. I have 12 of them

    • +1

      I have a VW… I need 5L for servicing every 15,000km and other 5L to top up between services!

      • +1

        if you have a VW, what you need is a road side assist membership. ;-)

        • 11 years and 169,000km.

          It has only failed me once (fuel pump) lucky Mechanics could push it to the their workshop less than 100m down the road.

          I like to live dangerously..still haven't bought road side assist membership :)

          • @JimB: Has your Check Engine light burned out yet? Most have by 30,000km

            • @bm: haha, no.. Only had 1 CEL due to a faulty PCV system at around 110k.

              • @JimB: Ha, my 2007 GTI, bought new, also had the fuel pump go, and the PCV. Replaced the PCV with a BSH blocking plate, improved the fuel economy by 10%.
                also had the fuel filter go, and the air con compressor, and a coil that was replaced under a silent recall out of warranty…
                Then in July some lady hit it while it was parked, she was "distracted".
                Now I dont have my 2007 GTI anymore, sad face.

                • @Ryk: Will Google BSH blocking plate.

                  Also had the coil pack and compressor replaced under the recall.

                  What do you drive now?

        • Too true, the number of broken down veedubs I drive past each day is unfathomable

      • Good god! What year's model is the car? Over a decade ago people complained about VW oil consumption issue and today still? Better get a Japanese car then.

        • +1

          2007 Golf GTI 169,000km.

          Started needing top ups around 90km..

          I use to worry, now I just I just top up each month.. no big deal anymore.

          • @JimB: Seems only Japanese and Korean cars don't need oil topups

            European cars have shit engines that wear really quick and need oil topups

            Australian and American cars have shit engines that never wear out but all seals and gaskets leak oil and need oil topups.

            At least European cars don't leave marks in your pant..s i mean driveways! But they cost so much in frequent repairs that replacing your driveway is usually cheaper.

            • @bm: Korean cars have been shit until recently.

              Japanese turbo engines are usually laggy, only the new Civic Type R turbo seems driveable compared to the Euro engines.

              I can't say that my GTI costs me too much in repairs.. I'd say my Golf GTI has cost me under $2k in repairs (excluding maintenance) since it's been out of warranty 8 years & 130km ago.

              My Volvo has cost me about $1k in repairs since it's been out of warranty 6 years & 90km ago.

              I can't complain too much, plus they drive much better than the Japanese and Korean cars of the same age.

      • My car doesn't burn much oil but it has been leaking oil so I'm in the same boat.

        • +1

          How much is it leaking that you need to top up?

          I'm not concerned with burning oil but would be with leaks. Plus all the mess it makes

          • @JimB: Not a huge amount but enough they it needs a top-up (half a litre?) every few months.

            Another downside to this is that by the time an oil change rolls around I don't have quite enough oil (have a bottle of Magnatec with less than the required 4 litres).

            • @Cleremy: I tend to buy in bulk and the same oil.. that way you don't have to worry about mixing oils.

              Last time I purchased 10 bottles of Valvoline 5W40 last time they had a sale and Cashback offer.. I think it cost me $25 a bottle net. I still have about 5 which will last me another 2 years.

    • I learned my lesson when I bought three Shell HX3 5L 20W-50 (the deal was you had to buy three), and still had one container sitting around ten years later.

      I still have transmission/axle oil I bought in the mid 2000's that I bought for no other reason than it was on sale.

      As tempting as it is to stockpile discounted oil (Gulf Western Syn-X anybody?), deals are frequent enough to allow you to take your chances on whatever is offered a few months before an oil change is due.

  • Which one is better, this or Castrol edge?

    • This one seems better as API SN instead of SL

      • Does it mean that Nulon is full synthetic compared to Castrol which is not? Is it group III or IV oil?

        • They're both classified as full synthetic oils. API SN means it just has newer, better performing additives in the oil.

  • Whats the Valvoline one like?

    Better than magnatec 10w40, shell hx5?

    • I think Shell and Mobil considered to be the best in the class.

      • I am under dilemma of using either Penrite HPR5 5w-40 or Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40

        • Both are top of the range but Shell could be a bit better, and approved by Ferrari!

    • I believe the Valvoline XLD series is mineral oil as well as the Shell HX5. It will do the job if you're happy to run it at 5k intervals. Castrol Magnatec is semi synethetic, you can run it for longer.

  • does anyone know its compatibility with a Honda Jazz 2009 1.3? And how is it better then Castrol Edge or Penrite ?

    • Before I was getting Castrol edge, now will try to switch to API SN oils, like Nulon, Shell and Penrite are all API SN oils. I just wait for 6L deals, as for my car I need. 6L of oil.

  • Hi,
    Is it ok to use this oil for 2.0 TDI DPF VW engine?

    • nope, you probably need the euro version as this isn't dpf compatible I don't think.

  • Would the valvoline $12 deal be better or worse than supercheaps current $10.99 deal for the 15w 40 gulf western?

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