Brought My Car for Service to Honda and Got Some Mind Boggling Quotes

LkevinMario on 22/03/2018 - 13:56
Last edited 28/03/2018 - 09:19 by 1 other user

Erh so… this was supposed to be a minor service ( maybe around $200 - $250 ) but I just received a phone call that made me had to sit down.

Basically, these are the things that the sales guy are trying to get me do:

$286 - Machine all 4 brake disc rotors
$665 - Replace all 4 tyres with Bridgestone EP25 + wheel alignment
$288 - Flush & replace auto transmission oil ( apparently my Jazz needs 8 litres of this? )
$58 - Replace Air Filter
$99 - Clean up Throttle Body
$359 - Replace passenger side fender tray + under tray + fitting

PLUS the service itself - $300

Honestly I was expecting to pay a bit more when I drove in today ( maybe around the $300 - $350 mark ) but yeah, wow.

Are the prices above quite reasonable? I have zero knowledge re: car parts so maybe I can pick some of your brains out re: these?

Thanks so much in advance.

Note: See update from OP

Automotive

Comments

  • nocure on 22/03/2018 - 14:01
    +24

    They're just up selling, what year model is it?

    • kevinMario on 22/03/2018 - 14:02
      +2

      2011 Honda Jazz

      • Gronk on 22/03/2018 - 14:04

        Mileage?

        • kevinMario on 22/03/2018 - 14:08

          118,665 ( just checked this morning )

        • Gronk on 22/03/2018 - 14:12
          +46

          @kevinMario:

          In that case….

          $286 - Machine all 4 brake disc rotors - Why? They haven't included a line to change the pads so why would this be required?
          $665 - Replace all 4 tyres with Bridgestone EP25 + wheel alignment - Why? Are all 4 down to the tread wear indicators?
          $288 - Flush & replace auto transmission oil ( apparently my Jazz needs 8 litres of this? ) - Not required
          $58 - Replace Air Filter - Not required
          $99 - Clean up Throttle Body - Not required
          $359 - Replace passenger side fender tray + under tray + fitting - Not required

          PLUS the service itself - $300 - Meh, given the age of the vehicle I'd take it to a local mechanic.

          Nocure's initial response was completely on the money, you don't need any of those additional items.

        • LlamaOfDoom on 25/03/2018 - 22:15

          @Gronk:
          Machine rotors - Machine rotors possible because they are warped. Thats the only reason that you would machine rotors. Regardless of the pad condition. This would be evident from a pulsing in the brake pedal or shudder through the steering wheel during heavy braking.

          Tyres - So…. maybe.

          ATF - Not required because you said so? The dealer likely has a scheduled service of the ATF at maximum 100k KM (usually its around 80-100). It probably isn't required, but to maintain the car (as it went to the dealer for), that is what they recommend.

          Air filter - Probably the 2nd most important part of a regular scheduled service, after engine oil and filter. Perhaps OP lives down a 20km dirt road? Saying "not required" requires far more information to make in informed response than we have right here.

          Clean throttle - Did OP mention how car was running? We have no information here.

          Fender - This is designed to stop grit/dirt/whatever getting up the inside of the panel. For the long term life of the panel, this should be fitted. Does the OP need it? Possibly not, but thats his decision, hence the dealers call.

      • theone4u on 24/03/2018 - 07:11
        +4

        Kevin should start bringing the car to a local mechanic, stuff the dealer, too expensive and overcharge on labor

        • Aceboy884 on 25/03/2018 - 10:18

          Agree

          I never take my car to dealers

          Especially an old car

    • ozzpete on 24/03/2018 - 01:22
      +5

      The dealership service mechanics usually are given incentives to find extra things to do, that dont really need doing at this time.
      Source: Car dealership manager or Toyota, Holden, Mercedes. I know someone who managed all of these, over approx 15 years career as dealership manager.

      • pegaxs on 24/03/2018 - 08:36
        +4

        As an ex-stealer mechanic, I can tell you that this is utter bullshit. I have worked for most of those brands before and NONE of them ever offered me any incentive to report things that were not really needed to be done.

        I have also worked as a service advisor and service manager and I have NEVER offered any incentive to any of my workers for finding extra work that needed to be done.

        The main reason this just isn’t true is that stealership mechanics are just like any other workers. They are low paid, under appreciated cogs in a money making machine. Like all employees, they like to do the absolute minimum required to get paid. The incentive is to not report anything that you might get lumped with doing.

        A lot of the time, a technician may put something like “front tyres are getting low” on the report, and the service manager/advisor looks at it as a chance to make budget for the day/week/month.

        I guess the “incentive” to sell shit to people that didn’t really need it was the dodging of the arse chewing you got from the dealer principal, the business manager and whoever else was your boss for not making budget that month. The only incentives the technicians got was based around productivity. Get it in, get it out, ASAP. Reporting extra work only killed your productivity.

        • pegaxs on 24/03/2018 - 10:45
          +5

          @ozzpete:

          Why it is unreasonable to believe that someone who has worked in the automotive industry to be promoted from technician, to service advisor to service manager?

          With knowledge of cars, why would it be unreasonable to believe that that same person could also be involved in a sales capacity to extend their industry knowledge, training and employment prospects?

          And back to your “fired from a lot of jobs” comment. I have never been fired and have only worked for three stealerships in my working life. All three of these were “multi-franchise” dealers, meaning that I get to work on a huge variety or cars at any single dealership. This doesn’t included all the off-brand used cars that were serviced and sold through those dealerships.

          Try reading some of my other posts. You forgot about the one where I worked in a casino. How about the one where I drive trucks? I feel sorry for you if you have only had the same job for your whole life for the same company.

          Anyway, this is me, justifying myself, again, to someone who doesn’t deserve it becuse they got called out on bullshitting. You keep building those straw men and keep adding those ad-hominem quotes. You, attacking me, doesn’t make me wrong, it just makes you unable to prove your point.

          If a mod is reading this, I am happy to send a mod copious amounts of proof of my employment history, my trade qualifications or anything else they may require. Not that anyone would ever have to.

          As for your inevitable reply, If it isn’t on topic, then I’m not interested.

        • callum9999 on 24/03/2018 - 10:47
          +2

          @ozzpete: They could very well be lying, but I've had a similarly diverse range of jobs and I'm only 28…

        • pegaxs on 24/03/2018 - 10:53
          +2

          @callum9999:

          I’m 45. I have worked for 5 employers my whole working life (nearly 30 years…) I don’t get it. It’s not hard to learn new things. It’s like some people get one trade and think, well, that’s it for me, or they think that all mechanics are too stupid to learn anything else.

          For clarity, my trade qualifications are, mechanic, locksmith and hospitality. I’ve never claimed to be anything more. 3 career changes in 30 years. Well, 2.5, because locksmithing just supplements my automotive line of work as another service I can offer… I don’t do a lot of houses, but I’m qualified to do it if required.

          The number of “heard it from a mate” armchair experts on here is just astounding.

        • keejoonc on 24/03/2018 - 11:23
          +1

          @ozzpete:

          pwned

        • callum9999 on 24/03/2018 - 14:58
          +1

          @pegaxs: If they're happy with that one job then good for them. Though, just like those who have never left Australia etc, I'll think their lifestyle choices are just as bizarre as they'd see mine.

          To not even consider it as a possibility however shows quite a big lack of imagination…

        • burningrage on 25/03/2018 - 09:23

          Suddenly everyone feels they are underpaid.

          Next week is the Child Care workers and now this.

          I share the sentiment of NoCure, my previous service included a service about disinfecting the aircon and when I visited OzB, I discovered they probably did it with Glen20 which is something I could do it myself.

          So yes I feel conned and hence no sympathy to this.

        • Aceboy884 on 25/03/2018 - 10:19
          +1

          So many trolls on this forum who neg because others have a different opinion

        • pegaxs on 25/03/2018 - 10:28
          +2

          @Aceboy884:

          Or they like to neg becuse “sheep”. They don’t read the post, they just see neg and think, oh well, must be a reason, I’ll neg too.

          At the end of the day, I don’t lose sleep over fake, imaginary internet points, what I care about is facts, and if those facts leave a few people butthurt enough along the way that they feel they need to downvote something becuse it’s a contradiction to what they want to believe, then I’m fine with that.

        • Blitzfx on 25/03/2018 - 13:55

          @pegaxs:

          You're lucky to have multiple career changes. It's not hard to learn anything new. It's hard to get a fking technical job where you get exposure to that field; and employers don't hire new people with no experience in entry level positions when there's other people out there with 5 years applying for it.

          I was looking at aircraft maintenance technician trainee spot at Virgin few years ago and in the interview room, there was an engineer from the army applying, another guy in a masters in mechanical, and some other people who looked twice my age applying for a job which paid $16k a year.

          To me, you're just a bragger. You're a typical oldie who berates on the younger generation and complains to them "stop being lazy and get a job". Back then, jobs grew on trees and you didn't have to take out a 3-5 year degree to compete against another 100 applicants with a 3% intake. And I'm not exaggerating about that 3%. Citipower and Rio grad program only has 3%.

          You don't need to worry about any of this coming from a 'mate'. All this is personal experience.

        • pegaxs on 25/03/2018 - 20:39
          +3

          @Blitzfx:

          I’m not a bragger, believe me. Everything I have had in my life and all the experiences I have had, I have had to work for, there was nothing "lucky" about it. I spend a lot of time teaching and training people, especially young people, because they are our future. I don’t call any of the ones that want to learn "lazy", and in the types of industries that I work in, there are not enough new skins coming in to replace the old guys, because why do shit work for average pay when you can sit in an office, in the air-con all day and get the same pay?

          The problem is that you have mistaken me for a baby boomer, which I am not (Technically, I'm Gen. X). My parents are rolling in it. They got very lucky. They paid $13,000 for 100acres of land AND a new house. Years later, a mining company bought them out for $750,000. They rode the peak of the mining boom wave and were blessed at being in the right place at the right time. My generation had nothing when this started, certainly not enough to start up a business and take advantage of the economic growth. But I do agree with your sentiment towards baby boomers. If anything, THEY are the ones to blame.

          Uni for me was off the table because it was too expensive, hence the reason I went to trade school. The generation older than me either got it for very cheap or didn’t require it. When I was applying for jobs, I was required to have 10 years experience for a job that had only existed for 5, it was crazy. Part of the reason I have had to diversify what I do is because I never went to uni and needed and edge.

          But now I am at a point where I am becoming un-employable. People don't want to hire me because they think that I will ask too much money. Why hire a specialist diagnostic technician when you can hire a 4th year apprentice for half my wage? My last job I applied for as part time work, I was told I was "over qualified" for the position… This is why I recently went back to school and got my tade cert. in Locksmithing. The time has come where if I want to keep making money, I have to go out on my own, because replacing me is cheap.

          Everybody wants people with lots of experience, but they want to pay apprentice rates…

        • Blitzfx on 25/03/2018 - 23:33
          +1

          @pegaxs:

          That's a fair effort. I'll take my assumptions back and hope you stay in a job you like for as long as you're able.

          I rarely hear about people being able to switch out of their field completely unless they were loaded especially in this day.

        • pegaxs on 25/03/2018 - 23:44

          @Blitzfx:

          There isn’t a big jump from mechanic to locksmith, as I can tie both of them together in automotive fields. The big jump was going from being a automotive technician to working in hospitality. I had to go back to being a trainee, so yes, initially the pay drop hurt, but paid off in the long run.

          What I say to people is, if you lose your passion for your job, move on and try something else you have always wanted to. I lost my passion for fixing cars and always wanted to be a casino games dealer. Now, I have a passion for both.

          Now I’m branching out into security/locksmith work, becuse it was another thing I have always wanted to do. Only time will tell if this latest diversion will pay off, but so far, I’m loving it…

          Side note: I too applied as an apprentice to do aircraft maintenance with Qantas, way back in 1992, and yes, the people I was up against, even back then, I had no hope.

        • ozzpete on 25/03/2018 - 23:51
          -4

          @keejoonc:
          Nope. He banned me, so he could have his little troll rant while I couldn't respond

        • Moderatorhamza23 on 26/03/2018 - 10:46

          @ozzpete:

          Members can't ban other members, only moderators can, please don't spread false information. You were banned for a personal attack. I've now banned you from this thread as it appears you cannot move on from the issue. If you continue to target or attack other members the ban will be extended.

      • supercheapguy on 25/03/2018 - 12:35

        i think just the dealer. In this case, they are just upselling

        • resisting the urge on 25/03/2018 - 16:00

          I doubt they are upselling. Most of that is easy for a customer to check.

          Are they charging too much? Not really. Will they do a good job? From the quote, it is clear they will not. an you get it done (properly) cheaper? yes.

          Check the brakes to be sure the disks(rotors) require machining. And if machined, the pads will need it too. Get someone knowledgeable to visually look. It is not hard to see if they are worn poorly. However if bad, replace the brake rotors instead of machining the old ones as very often one will be too thin once it is machined and then the set will go bad and your brakes feel poor in pretty short order. Take a look online you will find that many vendors sell replacements cheaply, and all of them are as good as most mechanics would use. However you MUST buy new pads as well (only buy OE ones or pads which are you know are otherwise engineered for the car rather than 'made to fit', Bosch blue pads are a safe option and again, cheap to buy online.

          My guess is that they may not machine your rotors since they are not quoting you for pad replacement as well- IOW they are not bad enough to warrant any real work.

          Tyres need to be done when worn, again a visual check will confirm. Good tyres are worth a little extra, a cheap brand is worth avoiding. Goto a decent shop where they sell the factory type, or get the latest Yokohama/Bridgestone/Michelin/Continental equivalents. Most good tyre shops can do your brakes cheaply too, and most will charge you labour only if you buy the right parts. But don't buy the wrong ones or you will be causing them and you a world of pain.

          So they simply charge you for tyres (w fitment and balance), replacement of brake rotors and pads, brake fluid flush, (needs to be done every 2 years)

          Whilst at it I'd buy a few air filters, a few fuel filters (when was this last changed) and some spark plugs as you will need all these soon enough anyhow. You can change the air filter yourself, have a trusty mechanic do the fuel filter and plugs in under an hour, (should be done every 80k) so do that whenever it might be time.

          Many of the comments about the underside panels are valid, critical no, but better to have. Cheaply sourced from a wrecker but you may get mucky and frustrated fitting them, it takes time- tools and the correct fasteners so if you do it, take care to source exactly what is needed. They serve purposes most people don't appreciate. Can even be worth having the dealer do if you have not the time or inclination.

          Don't skimp on the transmission fluid either, it should be replaced with the exact right factory approved fluid and done every 100k or less, ideally at double the frequency the factory recommends as fluid changes are cheap in comparison to changing transmissions. Beware having the dealer do this, if they can avoid it they may, e,g, simply check the level and top it off only. You want the contents of the oil-pan replaced, a new filter and it is very hard to tell if someone isn't lying about having done it all. Most dealers I know do this job very well, but if the service manager thinks they can get away with not doing yours, what is stopping them from ripping you off?

          In addition, you should consider also the cooling system. Any car I buy gets the coolant changed straight away as many people use incorrect coolant and/or simply avoid changing it, ever. Again, be sure to buy the factory replacement product, or a factory certified equivalent). Coolant again only lasts 2 years and leaving it longer than that will ensure degradation/failure of many expensive and fiddly parts in your engine, any one of which can leave you stranded by the side of the road.

  • dcep on 22/03/2018 - 14:01
    +19

    $286 - Machine all 4 brake disc rotors
    No need. Just wait till it warps. You can feel it.

    $665 - Replace all 4 tyres with Bridgestone EP25 + wheel alignment
    If no meat left on tire wear indicator, get it done at tire shop with buy 3 free 1 / free fitting & alignment.

    $288 - Flush & replace auto transmission oil ( apparently my Jazz needs 8 litres of this? )
    Get this done.

    $58 - Replace Air Filter
    No need.

    $99 - Clean up Throttle Body
    No need.

    $359 - Replace passenger side fender tray + under tray + fitting
    No need.

    • Euphemistic on 22/03/2018 - 14:11
      +21

      While I take your point, without seeing the vehicle you can't say there is 'no need' for those items.

      Brake machining is probably upselling and might need doing sometime soon.
      Never buy tyres from a dealer. Go to a specialist tyre place, hunt around for a good deal.
      Check what your service manual says regarding the transmission oil, maybe check with honda forums on the actual necessity.
      Air filter, depends on how dirty it is - based on your driving conditions it may or may not be due.
      Throttle body, I've got no idea, but suspect it's upselling.
      Fender tray? Sounds like panel damage, it's up to you but probably cheaper elsewhere.

      • kevinMario on 22/03/2018 - 14:16

        The under tray came off and I had to cut it off because it was grinding against the road

        Imgur

        • [Deactivated] on 22/03/2018 - 14:26
          +15

          Go to a wrecker and buy it off them. Probably $50-100 for one in good condition. Non OEM will probably cost $250ish Inc delivery but not worth it for a car of that value.

          Or avoid running over rocks, curbs, wombats and school children.

        • cameldownunder on 22/03/2018 - 15:56

          I had a similar part coming off the under/front of my KIA, a bit of hot glue, a few discs and back into place. Otherwise the part itself would have been ~ $300

        • kevinMario on 22/03/2018 - 16:05

          @cameldownunder: thing is when it came off I drove over it ( the part above the tyre ) so it's apparently unusable.

          With the under tray bit I had to cut it off since I couldn't unscrew the only screw that was still holding it together.

          Do I really need these parts though? My understanding is that the sole purpose of these parts are to protect the internals from rocks etc

        • cameldownunder on 22/03/2018 - 17:11
          +14

          @kevinMario: "the sole purpose of these parts are to protect the internals from rocks etc"
          Doesn't that answer your question ?

        • [Deactivated] on 22/03/2018 - 21:11
          +2

          @kevinMario:
          It buffers any impact. It's not necessary just like you can ride a motorcycle without a helmet. It's all good until it is not.

          I have one car without an undercarriage guard because it kept getting damaged. The guard is much lower than any fragile part. I've taken it off and made sure I do not run over anything.

        • fantombloo on 22/03/2018 - 22:49
          +14

          @kevinMario: Aerodynamics at 200+km/h may be affected. Consider getting a rear spoiler to compensate of you're gonna drive that fast.

        • Euphemistic on 23/03/2018 - 07:00
          +2

          @thevofa: excellent idea because the loft from the front combined with the down force from the wing at the rear will save wear on the front tyres too.

        • fantombloo on 23/03/2018 - 08:08
          +1

          @Euphemistic: Not to mention front shock wear.

          This is ozbargaining.

        • Osprey06 on 23/03/2018 - 10:30
          +3

          @kevinMario: | Do I really need these parts though?
          In short, no, you don't really need the trays. The car will run fine, you may use a little more fuel and the engine may run a little bit warmer (although there should be enough tolerance that it won't overheat). I've driven lots of cars w/out them and all has been fine. It also sounds like you've been driving w/out it for a while as well with no problems.

          Those plastic under-tray parts are more about aerodynamics than physical protection. They help air moving under the car move more quickly from front to back, reducing aerodynamic drag and therefore fuel consumption.

          Removing them can impact on engine cooling because the air travelling under the car becomes 'turbulent'. Some of the air that would have moved under the car from the front to the back instead gets sucked up into the engine bay from underneath. This then reduces the amount/speed of air flowing through your radiator (air is now coming into the engine bay from underneath, therefore less can come in through the radiator from the front of the car) and means that the engine itself has static/turbulent air around it, instead of a fresh stream of air moving through the radiator, around the engine and out underneath the car.

        • Samsungnote10 on 24/03/2018 - 19:19

          @tshow:

          Hilarious

    • JimmyF on 22/03/2018 - 14:24
      +10

      Its funny so many people saying its not needed when they haven't even seen teh car!

      Brakes/Tyres - Yeah I agree, take it to tyre/brake place. It'll be cheaper.

      Those CVTs need to be looked after, so I wouldn't say no.

      Engine air filers, DO need replacing

      Maybe the trottle body needs to be cleaned up. Its 8 years old and sounds like it hasn't been looked after 'well', so yeah do it now.

      Repace fenders etc, well if the OP ripped them off and is asking for fixing, this is what they cost. Or they could just remove them.

      $300 for a service, it is HONDA! Sounds normal.

      • hoey888 on 22/03/2018 - 14:44
        +2

        +1 CVT

        CVT oil change is a definite. Recommended drain interval is every 80k. I did mine at every 40k as it was black and burnt by then. Depends on how you drive it.

        If you concerned about price, consider a specialist Honda garage or workshop.

        • JimmyF on 22/03/2018 - 16:25

          Agreed. CVT's don't like being abused by lack of oil changes. Its WAY cheaper to change the oil often like you did, than wait till they fall over for a rebuild!

      • wombok2 on 22/03/2018 - 16:47
        +6

        FYI 2011 Jazz, is 2nd generation(2008-2014) Jazz which would have conventional 5 speed gearbox.

        Only 1st generation(2001-2007) and current generation (2014+) have CVT gearboxes.

        • Gronk on 22/03/2018 - 17:17
          +1

          You beat me to it, no CVT option for that model year.

        • Jackson on 23/03/2018 - 18:07
          +3

          This wouldn't change my opinion personally, if OP has done 118k km without a trans service it's likely due

  • [Deactivated] on 22/03/2018 - 14:06

    Depends on the model

    Disc brake rotors - just buy new rotors for less. Lol

    Tyres yeah about that price for that tyre… If you actually need new ones.

    Replace transmission oil not at a minor service. They will charge you for it but likely not do it.

    Air filter go ahead and soak that in kero, dry it, and put it back in. Lol.

    Cleaning throttle body $2 SCA degreaser, some rags and 5 minutes of time. $58 lol.

    Replacing fenders oh. It's also a body shop.

    $300 for a service. Lol. 30 minutes.. no no. 1 hour because some people need to do all the safety checks wink wink. 1 hour of labour, $30 of oil $10 oil filter.

    Sorry, we having a laugh here.

    • kevinMario on 22/03/2018 - 14:09
      +1

      :'(

      • [Deactivated] on 22/03/2018 - 14:11
        +1

        Not at you. With you. When you go back to pick up your car.

        Hopefully without the chips on the side.

    • manshrew on 22/03/2018 - 14:34
      +3

      Tyres are a fair bit cheaper at a tyre place.
      Bridgestone should still have buy 3 get 1 free at the moment as well.

      Just had 4 Ecopias of a similar size put on for under $400.

      • [Deactivated] on 22/03/2018 - 14:39
        +3

        Yeah, I thought we'd give the benefit of the doubt to the ladies and gents in question and work off RRP.

        I hate Ecopias though. Sooooooo much flex in the sidewall it makes me poop a little when I'm turning.

        • manshrew on 22/03/2018 - 15:22

          Good thinking, Honda need all the help they can get working off those RRP's.

          They're not the best. But for a small car I don't mind them.

        • kevinMario on 22/03/2018 - 16:07

          @manshrew: so Ecopias are like, the lowest grade or something?

        • manshrew on 22/03/2018 - 16:16
          +2

          @kevinMario:
          Not really, there are still cheaper crappier tyres.
          But for Bridgestone they are the lowest.

        • Jackson on 23/03/2018 - 19:14

          @manshrew: I thought they were low rolling resistance tyres, not specifically the lowest. Horse for courses

    • dwillia on 23/03/2018 - 09:45
      +2

      cleaning throttle bodies with degreaser eh?

      this is why asking for advice on forums is sometimes a very bad idea

      soaking an airfilter in kero?

      I hope to hell nobody takes this advice and applies it to their vehicle. Not if they want to continue driving it

      • [Deactivated] on 23/03/2018 - 10:42
        -1

        You clean it with a rag that has been sprayed with a degreaser.

        You can soak the air filter in a specialized air filter solvent. It's just very expensive kero. Of course wash and dry it before using as per any air filter.

        Or maybe I should have stopped driving my current car 40,000kms ago. Gotta check my blinker fluid soon.

        • dwillia on 23/03/2018 - 13:00
          +1

          you understand that a throttle body clean is internal right? you're going to clean the internals of the throttle body with a kero sodden rag??

        • [Deactivated] on 23/03/2018 - 15:17

          @dwillia:
          You do know it is a big space that is revealed after taking off a few screws/bolts right?

        • gguu on 23/03/2018 - 16:06

          @dwillia:
          What seems to be a problem? Disconnect the air duct from the throttle body, spray and clean inside. May be use paper towels instead of a rag but it is pretty simple 10 minutes job.

        • [Deactivated] on 23/03/2018 - 16:21
          +1

          @gguu:
          Just occurred to me, maybe he is trying to charge $99 for it.

          And I dislike paper towels for these jobs cause they leave paper fibres.

        • dwillia on 23/03/2018 - 19:58

          kerosene is not the solvent to be using - the aim is to remove carbon build up

      • pegaxs on 23/03/2018 - 19:27
        +6

        I am with you on this, @dwilla. As an actual mechanic, I have NEVER cleaned an air filter out with "kero". It's a good idea to not clean it out with "kero", because "kero" is a light oil. It will never "dry out" and will only cause more dust to stick to your filter.

        Added to that, kero is a fuel. So, it's always a good idea to wash out something that is absorbent with something that is flammable. I have had a few vehicles come to me with "run away RPM" engine damage because some moron cleaned an air filter with "kero" (cause they read it on a forum…). They shut their engine off, and the "kero" in the filter just keeps feeding the fire.

        If it's a washable/Uni filter type filter, sure, it needs to be washed out, but you use warm, soapy water. Why? Because warm, soapy water does not burn. If it is a paper type filter, just blow it off with and air duster. If it has oil on it, replace it.

        Throttle bodies should be cleaned with throttle body cleaner or carby cleaner. This is different to degreaser. Degreaser is usually a light oil based cleaner that can leave a residue. Contact cleaner/carby cleaner is a high evaporative cleaner that dissolve things like carbon and oil residue and leaves no residue.

        The problem is, @tshow is not a mechanic. And from what I have gathered over their recent comments in this forum, is that they are ill informed at the very best with what appear to be made up stories. @tshow's comments are often inaccurate or based off regurgitated misinformation. At this point, I am not sure if they are trying to troll or genuinely just have not much of any real idea other than watching some other clueless people work on cars at some stage… And that's why I blocked them.

        • dwillia on 23/03/2018 - 20:02
          +3

          Spot on! my feeling is they know little but what seems "logical" to them is passed off as fact.

          IMO these people are the worst people to be posting on a forum - clueless and pig headed.

        • [Deactivated] on 23/03/2018 - 20:15
          -7

          You may be an actual mechanic but dried kero on a paper or foam filter will not feed a fire in the engine, it may catch on fire like a waxed wick, but it will not feed a fire in the engine.

          Besides, whenever you soak in kero, you run it through with soapy water if it's still oily, and of course dry it. I guess if it isn't in some mechanic hand book, and it's not fully spelt out, it's an attack on a technician's knowledge.

          I take technical knowledge from technicians but I'd rather take chemical knowledge from an engineer. They are actually educated on the subject.

          Seems like I have struck the raw nerves of actual mechanics. I'll bow out since I know how technicians can get upset when confronted with more knowledge than they accept exists.

        • pegaxs on 23/03/2018 - 20:36
          +2

          @dwillia:

          I’ve found the issue is the people with the real experience and knowledge are just drowned out by the noise from guess work of people who had a “personal” experience or heard it from a guy who’s “pretty clued in about cars…”

          The big problem I found is that they will justify it with “well you would have to be stupid to not realise… insert random excuse…”. But the big issue is that they don’t realise that there are so many people who come here and read their comments and think that they speak from experience. To a mechanically minded person, it sounds stupid, but to someone looking for help, they read these incorrect comments and don’t know the real solution from the bad guesses…

        • dwillia on 23/03/2018 - 20:58
          +1

          @pegaxs:

          don't forget this jem: "specialised cleaners are just expensive kero" BWAHAHAHA!

        • pegaxs on 23/03/2018 - 21:29
          +1

          @dwillia:

          A personal fave. I’ve been buying $25 tins of contact cleaner for years… Had I have known it was just kero… :D

          Or my fave… “well, yeah, wash out the kero with warm soapy water after…” Why not just skip the kero step all together? :D

        • [Deactivated] on 23/03/2018 - 23:34

          @pegaxs:
          Because kerosene is a highly lipophilic hydro carbon and soap has both a lipophilic and a hydrophobic end…

          Whatever. I don't expect to teach basic chemistry. It obviously is a whole lot of witchcraft.

        • pegaxs on 24/03/2018 - 09:03
          +2

          @tshow:

          So, what you’re saying is, I should wash “dust” out of a paper air cleaner element with a chemical that is designed to break down fats, oils and lipids? THEN I should wash the lipophilic hydrocarbon based cleaner out with a hydrophobic one??

          I’m going to write this one last time. The reason that you don’t clean air filters out with “kero” is that the kero soaks into the paper, essentially ruining it. It can also destroy the foam seal on some air cleaners. The other thing that happens is that when you re-install the kero-soaked air cleaner, air will be sucked through it. This has the action of drawing out the “kero” and atomising it. Atomised “kero” is fuel mixed with air. Kero is a compression ignition fuel, similar to diesel, and if there is enough “kero” left in your filter, the air moving over it drags it out and feeds it to the engine. You can turn your engine off, but it continues to run becuse the air/fuel mix is being supplied by your hydrocarbon soaked air filter…

          I know you’re going to dispute it and come back with some irrelevant “petro-chemistry” garbage you read on Google, but the fact remains, your advice is wrong.

          Every time you try and reply, it only reinforces why I have your comments blocked.

        • [Deactivated] on 24/03/2018 - 10:46

          Lipophilic and hydrophobic hydrophilic end. Sigh. Obviously a typo for what a soap is.

          There shouldn't be enough kero left in the filter after washing. The kero is a solvent and a heavier detergent. The soap acts as a milder detergent to remove most of the kero.

          It's not Petro-chemistry, it is basic solvents, surfactants and detergents. Anyway, I have no interest in picking an argument when I'm starting to be called out on obvious typos and having context removed.

          I surrender. I said hydrophobic when it is meant to read hydrophilic. Lots of kerosene in an air filter causes sufficient atomization for unwanted combustion.

        • pegaxs on 24/03/2018 - 12:54
          +2

          @tshow:

          Obviously a typo for what a soap is
          I'm starting to be called out on obvious typos

          Because hydrophobic and hydrophilic are everyday words that commonly get typographically erred. It may well have been a "typo", but to 95% of people not involved with these (near on jargon) types of words, it's not an "obvious typo".

          Air filter go ahead and soak that in kero, dry it, and put it back in. Lol.

          Your original statement was "soak that in kero" and made no mention of the type of filter you were cleaning with kero and no mention of cleaning the kero residue up with soap. It said "dry it", leading people to think that "kero" will just evaporate away, or they can just towel it off, when it wont.

          While I agree that "some" filters can be cleaned using "kero", it is pointless to do it that way, because detergents do a far better job of breaking down oils and dirt associated with cleaning air filters. Best part is that detergents break down oils and then in turn, detergent is broken down by water, where "kero" on it's own, is not broken down by water…

          While I appreciate everyone trying to help, and there are some really good people on here posting answers, what I have a problem with is top level comments that have information in them that most "non-mechanically minded" people may try at home and do themselves that could have catastrophic affects on their vehicles.

          Sure, on your CBR600 race bike with the K&N race filter, wash that sucker out with "kero", (because air filter oil is bullshit to clean out FFFFF!!!), then clean it with hot, soapy water and re-oil it. But for a 2011 Honda Jazz owner, who is asking on a forum for help, it's "obvious" they don’t know a lot about cars, so they may just take your information and actually try it and the next posts ends up being… "I washed my filter out with kero and my engine wouldn’t turn off and exploded…"

          Anyway, I surrender too. I think the point has been made sufficiently enough that people will read through this and think. Oh, ok, don’t wash with kero, or wash it out after with hot soapy water…

          PS: to anyone reading this… don’t put (water) wet filters back in your car either. because dust turns to mud :P

        • BartholemewH on 25/03/2018 - 10:25
          +2

          Washable motorcycle / uni filters are often washed in kero or petrol, but they are then washed with soapy water and are re-oiled. Never heard of washing a paper filter with kero, they are a disposable part imo.

    • poohduck on 23/03/2018 - 20:13
      +1

      air filter is probably paper (so no kero). Prices look good to me. The question is does any of it need doing? Do you know and trust the mechanic?

      Are the brakes grabby / abrupt?

      You can check out the tyres yourself. Often the front tyres will wear on the outside of the tread, and the right side front will wear faster than the left side front.

    • burningrage on 25/03/2018 - 09:26

      "$300 for a service. Lol. 30 minutes.. no no. 1 hour because some people need to do all the safety checks wink wink. 1 hour of labour, $30 of oil $10 oil filter."

      That is so true. I put my car in at 7.30am, and around 11am I got a msg. Give and take they took the car in at 9am, and take 1 hr to sms me, it would be a one hour job for $470 for me (so you're lucky) and that's CAPPED pricing!!!!!!

  • altomic on 22/03/2018 - 14:10
    +44

    why are you taking a 2011 car to Honda?

    source a decent independent garage.

    • Euphemistic on 22/03/2018 - 14:12
      +3

      Many times this!

    • GG57 on 22/03/2018 - 14:41
      +1

      Fully agree, find a garage that is convenient to access, go in and talk to the people face-to-face about potentially booking in for a service.
      You will (hopefully) find one that you can trust.

      No need for Honda, unless under a recall or whatever (which should be free).

  • npc on 22/03/2018 - 14:16
    +1

    Up selling at it's best. Ignore everything and check tyres by yourself as this is important safety aspect.

    You should be able to find similar tyres for ~60% of the quoted price. Costco currently sells 4x Bridgestone RE003 205/55 R16 for $363.

  • [Deactivated] on 22/03/2018 - 14:17
    +1

    Step 1 - https://youtu.be/t6TRIRaAZwY

    Step 2 - https://youtu.be/KkEpfLXAWfo

    Of course you'll be doing this lying down instead of standing under a hoist.

    $200 capital investment on a jack and some stands, a few wrenches, plastic funnels and tubs.

    Everyone should be doing this themselves.

    Ps. Be careful, you may find yourself learning more and more and find your car in pieces one morning and be like, okay… I need to lay off the you toobz for a bit.

    • kevinMario on 22/03/2018 - 16:16

      … I like my car to stay in one full piece… but yes, those videos are already on my "Watch Later" list :)

      • [Deactivated] on 22/03/2018 - 17:13

        Don't procrastinate. It's loooooong overdue.

  • inherentchoice on 22/03/2018 - 14:27
    +4

    New air filter can be purchased for under $20 and installed very very easily as a 2 minute DIY job. But as other's have said don't bother if it's still clean. Hold it up to the sunlight and check if the light comes through.

    • SupeNintendoChalmers on 23/03/2018 - 16:43
      +1

      remove it and give it a good vac, or even find someone with an air pressure gun to push all the crap of it.

  • yoonibear on 22/03/2018 - 14:44

    Didn't they tell you there's carbon build up on your engine?

    • kevinMario on 22/03/2018 - 16:08

      Actually no, why did you ask?

      • yoonibear on 22/03/2018 - 17:44

        Did they*

        I guess it was one of their "upsells" - they nearly managed to convince my wife she had to have the carbon build up cleaned

  • pantsparty on 22/03/2018 - 14:56

    I find that Hondas aren't common in Australia - this is probably how they stay in business - rip you off when you get it serviced - got to make your profits somehow.

    • SnoozeAndLose on 22/03/2018 - 15:13
      +2

      their Capped price service is the highest among the other major Japanese retailer Toyota, Nissan …

    • Flying Ace on 24/03/2018 - 08:53

      Where are you living that Hondas aren’t common? They’re everywhere here!

  • SnoozeAndLose on 22/03/2018 - 15:11

    Can you just go to your local mechanic and do the service and see what they say?

    • kevinMario on 22/03/2018 - 16:14

      Yes that's what I'll probably do next time I need a service.

      I already dropped off the Jazz this morning ( they needed it to check what needs to be done on top of the minor service ) so not much I can do now - I'll just write it off as a very expensive life lesson.

      • Gronk on 22/03/2018 - 20:42
        +1

        Have you given either verbal or written acceptance of the additional work? Because you're not obliged to accept anything above and beyond what you booked the vehicle for originally.

        If you've given them the 'nod' then unfortunately you're going to have to foot the bill, otherwise just call back tomorrow and say 'no thanks'.

      • Osprey06 on 23/03/2018 - 10:12
        +1

        Per Gronk's comment, if you have just dropped the car off to be 'checked' and haven't given the go ahead for any work to be completed, then you can either pick the car up w/out any work (even the service) being done, or run through the list and tell them what work you do/don't want them to do.

        If you drop the car off for a minor service and they come back and say they've machined the discs (which is not part of a 'minor' service), but you never gave the go ahead for that work, then I think you have a case to refuse payment for that item (they completed work on the car which was not work that you asked them to complete/gave approval for them to complete).

  • adr8 on 22/03/2018 - 15:39
    +1

    $216 for 4 brand new rotors
    https://www.sparesbox.com.au/dba-brake-rotor-front-pair-dba4…
    https://www.sparesbox.com.au/dba-brake-rotor-rear-pair-dba25…
    $137 for front & rear pads
    https://www.sparesbox.com.au/bendix-brake-pad-set-front-and-…

    That $286 they quoted for machining I'm assuming is for new pads also?

    • kevinMario on 22/03/2018 - 16:09

      No pads, those are just to machine the current brake discs :(

      • Osprey06 on 23/03/2018 - 10:08
        +1

        1. Are the discs warped? Do you feel any unusual vibration when you brake? Through the brake pedal? Hear any noises when braking (and only when braking)? What kind of noises?

        2. Brake pads generally wear out more quickly than discs. It's good practice when changing pads to machine the discs, although a lot of people (and particularly for European cars) just replace the discs with new ones at that time.

        If you don't have the symptoms mentioned above and they're not changing the pads, I'd probably tell them not to machine the discs.

        • poohduck on 23/03/2018 - 20:18

          yeah, some european cars have ceramic discs - the discs and pads are replaced together.

          If the discs on the Jazz are roughed up (gouged etc), the pads will grab - hence machining.

  • Hithere on 22/03/2018 - 15:56
    +7

    Which advice are you going to listen to OP, the advice here or the advice on Whirlpool?

    https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=2713611&…

    • kevinMario on 22/03/2018 - 16:08

      Haha both - I like to get as much information as I possibly could :)

  • kolorijo on 22/03/2018 - 16:15
    +2

    If you are in Sydney, I recommend http://toponeauto.com.au/ to look after your car. I am very happy with them.

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